Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (1 Viewer)

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Gusb said:
Hacksaw/hammer/vise/file :grinpimp: 16 GA replacement brackets for inside the rocker panel.

Kicked around patching the old brackets but they were pretty toasted and I don't have a sand blaster, etc. etc.
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Hey GusB, How did you get that flange area bent into your rocker panel replacement brackets... Any tips? I was laying in bed thinking about it at 4:30 this morning, and was not being able to figure out how you did it so cleanly with only a vice, hammer, and a couple of other hand tools. I would rather do things the smart way the first time, instead of having to screw up two or three practice pieces first.
 
twoturtlesracing said:
Hey GusB, How did you get that flange area bent into your rocker panel replacement brackets... Any tips? I was laying in bed thinking about it at 4:30 this morning, and was not being able to figure out how you did it so cleanly with only a vice, hammer, and a couple of other hand tools. I would rather do things the smart way the first time, instead of having to screw up two or three practice pieces first.
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Hard to explain... pressed for time right now but quick/dirty explanation:

1) Check out a few books like Bumping Metal, Auto Restoration Bible, etc. that show a few basics on bending steel sheet, how it work-hardens in the process, what happens when you bend it one way and then bend it back ... practice on some scrap parts.

and

2) A number of make-shift steel parallels and old steel hold-downs clamped into the vise in various ways to form sort of a movable die.
bend.webp
 
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Good enough for me! Thanks for the suggestions on reading material...
 
WOW!! just read all 10 pages of this thread thus far. To all the guys that have given contstructive input, added diagrams, explained techniques and their thought process......Ya'll MAKE MUD what it is....thank you thank you.......headed back to the garage frustrated I can't weld...........YET
 
twoturtlesracing said:
Hey GusB, How did you get that flange area bent into your rocker panel replacement brackets... Any tips? I was laying in bed thinking about it at 4:30 this morning, and was not being able to figure out how you did it so cleanly with only a vice, hammer, and a couple of other hand tools. I would rather do things the smart way the first time, instead of having to screw up two or three practice pieces first.
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Harbor freight carries some cheap flanging tools.
 
Thinking about some patchwork for the rear bed. Some areas are relatively free of rust but a few places could really stand a patch. Welded a few holes up and everything looks good from below. Might approach Kevin about making a larger “bed patch” or a few smaller ones – not sure how hard that would be to bend up and keep dimensions accurate enough to blend the welds where they butt at the radius.
rear_deck.webp
bed1.webp
 
Gusb said:
Thinking about some patchwork for the rear bed. Some areas are relatively free of rust but a few places could really stand a patch. Welded a few holes up and everything looks good from below. Might approach Kevin about making a larger “bed patch” or a few smaller ones – not sure how hard that would be to bend up and keep dimensions accurate enough to blend the welds where they butt at the radius.
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You need to check classifieds more often! Somebody just posted a complete rear bed panel for $80 yesterday!
 
It can be done but it's tough to make the joint between original and patch invisible. There are a few challenges. In your drawing you spec two different radii on the bends. To make two radii you need two different tools. When air bending, as opposed to stamping, the width of the "V" die is what determines your radius. Using two different tools would be very cumbersome in my machine because you would have to switch the tool between bends. I just made a full floor for a 79+ and it has 56 bends across the width of the part and took me 40 minutes to bend with one tool (two hours for the first one including setup).

It is a moot point though because what you note correctly as two different radii are in fact the inside and outside radius of the same bend.

Another challenge in making a perfect joint is the radius you spec. As I stated above it is the width of the bottom "V" die that determines the radius. There are 4 bends per rib. Picture in your mind a flat sheet and then add one bend of say...30º. Now flip it over and picture setting the part in the "V". If the width of the "V" is close to or more than double the distance between the two bends then you cannot get the part close enough to make the rib the correct height.

That confusing paragraph boils down to this: the shape of the rib limits what tools can be used and therefore the radius.

After welding any patch in you will need to smooth the weld and in so doing can feather the joint to the point where only you will know where it was after paint and possibly bed liner.
 
Gusb said:
You mean that "Rear Bed (warped but very usable)..." rusted, CCOT thing :confused:
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It had a tiny amount of surface rust and it would straighten right out when tacked in. A hell of a lot less work than trying to blend in the welds over 7 ribs of a patch panel!
 
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Gusb said:
You mean that "Rear Bed (warped but very usable)..." rusted, CCOT thing :confused:
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My bed floor makes that rusty POS look like a golden dinner plate. I would've bought it for $40 in a heartbeat. It's hard to see from the picture, but my worst spot is on the right side at the rear where there was a previous repair to the rust. I don't really see how it's repairable now. Without repairing that, I don't see my way clear to install Kevin's pretty metal.

attachment.php


Edit: This picture is pretty much what I need to deal with. Mine might be worse. The sheet metal going around the passenger side fender over the horn on that side is for sure worse.

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Awl_TEQ said:
I just made a full floor for a 79+ and it has 56 bends across the width of the part and took me 40 minutes to bend with one tool (two hours for the first one including setup).
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So...are you planning to make a whole floor for me? ('76) Sounds easier than patches. :) Based on the steel rear sill artwork you sent down last time if it's anything close to original, I'm warming up my Paypal right now.

Anyone have a link to a picture of a cut-out floor? I would not be looking forward to drilling out all those spot welds while looking up at them. :bang:
 
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Well... can't be any harder than the late model floor. I had to charge $600 for it because of all the welding and grinding of rib ends and around the fuel access panel. That included the complete cross members under it as well.

As for an earlier floor, I don't have one here to copy but I would entertain the idea of making one. I'm too backed up right now to take on a larger part like that - I need a few weeks - too many guys waiting patiently already.
 
Awl_TEQ said:
That included the complete cross members under it as well.
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Great. More spot welds. :rolleyes:

Awl_TEQ said:
As for an earlier floor, I don't have one here to copy but I would entertain the idea of making one. I'm too backed up right now to take on a larger part like that - I need a few weeks - too many guys waiting patiently already.
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No hurry from my end. I don't want to tackle the floor before wheeling season this year. Maybe I'll plan to cut out the floor after labor day.
 
Awl_TEQ said:
It can be done but it's tough to make the joint between original and patch invisible. There are a few challenges..
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Kevin,

I'm torn about which direction to go here. My floor looks clean enough in most places and I feel I can probably patch here and there and retain a lot of what's original - albeit with a lot of additional work welding, grinding and tweaking the areas in. But I also feel like new steel with new bends (work-hardened, etc.) would probably add strength, where a bunch of my "flat" patches may be weaker. I may try a few small patches with some small bends and see how it goes... Could a small bench brake create that radius in a limited sort of way on a small patch :hhmm:

I would think a complete floor from you would be worth $600 - in future - would 2 or more at the same time help pricing?

Let me know if I can help you out with dims at some point. As always, really appreciate your attention to detail (and great work). :)

Gus
 
A "box and pan" or "bench" brake would do it but again you need a narrow enough bottom folding tool so that after the first bend and flip you can get the part in close enough to clamp and fold the second bend. I've got a 24" box and pan brake that has 3 bottom tool widths - 1/4" - 1/2" and 1.5". The 1/4" tool should be narrow enough given your dimensions above.
 
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