LSUfj
SILVER Star
my 75 doesnt have those bolts. I didnt realize they existed. Most vendors dont sell a different panel for the 73-78ish rear beds. Its usually early or late model (79+)
Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gusb
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #203
Small update - slow it goes - haven't had much time in the garage for a while.
Decided in my usual, irrational, unorthodox (backward?) way to weld up all the nooks and crannies in my bed in place of patching. Some burning old paint spattering out of the pot holes as they're welded up and a good amount of cleanup grinding involved. Tried to chemical strip as much old paint first but I’d still like to find a better abrasive since blasting is not an available alternative right now. None of the abrasive discs, etc. I’m using really seem to get in the small areas that well. May need to just wait until I can get light sandblast here and there to really make sure the rust is out. I’m looking at Scotch-Brite™ Roloc™ Bristle Disc, 2 inch, Coarse grade, 07524 from 3M never used them before.
Disc is a molded, abrasive filled bristle disc instead of wire brushes for automotive use on aluminum and metal. Use for deburring, blending, finishing, polishing, cleaning and for coating, defect, scratch and rust removal. Use 3M holder #7500 for ea
Decided in my usual, irrational, unorthodox (backward?) way to weld up all the nooks and crannies in my bed in place of patching. Some burning old paint spattering out of the pot holes as they're welded up and a good amount of cleanup grinding involved. Tried to chemical strip as much old paint first but I’d still like to find a better abrasive since blasting is not an available alternative right now. None of the abrasive discs, etc. I’m using really seem to get in the small areas that well. May need to just wait until I can get light sandblast here and there to really make sure the rust is out. I’m looking at Scotch-Brite™ Roloc™ Bristle Disc, 2 inch, Coarse grade, 07524 from 3M never used them before.
Disc is a molded, abrasive filled bristle disc instead of wire brushes for automotive use on aluminum and metal. Use for deburring, blending, finishing, polishing, cleaning and for coating, defect, scratch and rust removal. Use 3M holder #7500 for ea
- Thread starter
- #204
I’m almost ready for the final dreaded filler (hoping not much) on the quarters and then I need to figure out how to get some DP40LF (or some kind of primer) laid down to at least protect everything a bit going forward. One thing I’ve discovered by trial/error is that shrinking sheet metal can be done with a lot of control using just a small mini torch, no OA, MAPP, wet rags or spray bottles required.
Pulled the doors (to rebuild with new glass runs, etc.) and may leave them off (with the top) when the truck is moving again - until I’m ready for major paint. That Toyota factory primer really seems to hold up over the years, in some situations anyway.
Pulled the doors (to rebuild with new glass runs, etc.) and may leave them off (with the top) when the truck is moving again - until I’m ready for major paint. That Toyota factory primer really seems to hold up over the years, in some situations anyway.
I've used those before. Works great on large flat areas!
If you use it anywhere with sharp edges etc. it will dramatically decrease the life of the disc ($$$).
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
I also get the 3" rolocs for those areas where a better reach helps. I also use the backside of the 3" at times too, for really hard to reach areas.
Rolocs rule! In 2", I use the ultrafine (grey) for aluminum polishing, fine (blue) for gasket removal on aluminum, med (burgundy) for general steel, and coarse (brown) for hard grinding.
I have their radial bristle brush - 6" on my bench grinder in medium/yellow and coarse/brown in lieu of wire wheels. They work great.
I even have the radial bristle brush in 3/4" in all grades that I got from a jewelry supply for the dremel. Works incredibly.
Rolocs rule! In 2", I use the ultrafine (grey) for aluminum polishing, fine (blue) for gasket removal on aluminum, med (burgundy) for general steel, and coarse (brown) for hard grinding.
I have their radial bristle brush - 6" on my bench grinder in medium/yellow and coarse/brown in lieu of wire wheels. They work great.
I even have the radial bristle brush in 3/4" in all grades that I got from a jewelry supply for the dremel. Works incredibly.
- Thread starter
- #207
Finally found a set of door lower window guide channels ebay (needed one for the driver-side door). Nobody seemed to have them, Toyota, SOR, etc. These are from a 76 and seem like they will work for my 78. Toyota lists 2 part numbers (67407r/67408l) for these (discontinued) parts, but passenger/driver seem identical in this set. The new replacement liner “felt” (Toyota) seems more rubber-like than the old stuff. Lower bolt is 90119-06056. The rubber/felt run has an old number 68143 and the new stuff I received from Toyota was 67434-90300 - seems to fit the channel really well.
Also picked up a used driver’s-side door handle but it has a small stress crack in the same place as my original (red circle in picture).
This must be a pressure area that cracks on a lot of old handles.
Also picked up a used driver’s-side door handle but it has a small stress crack in the same place as my original (red circle in picture).
This must be a pressure area that cracks on a lot of old handles.
- Thread starter
- #208
Another day - another patch - working my way around the truck. This is the driver’s seat front support area, window side. First found this crack when I bought the truck and did a temporary quick cleanup/POR15 of the floor. Didn't have a welder at that point. This part of the floor must get worked a bit from the movement/weight of the driver.
It also has the standard FJ40 “rust creator” support plate that was eating the floor from underneath. I’ll try to clean up the plate and weld it back on when the patch is in place.
It also has the standard FJ40 “rust creator” support plate that was eating the floor from underneath. I’ll try to clean up the plate and weld it back on when the patch is in place.
Cool idea using the roll pins for alignment. If you've shown that before I never noticed or it went over my head....
Keep plugging away and soon it shall be done.
Keep plugging away and soon it shall be done.
- Thread starter
- #211
The dowel pins are kind of a machine shop thing - they’re also 1/8” so a Cleco clamp could be stuck in any of the holes if needed. It’s really helped me get parts like the wheel-well brackets, support plates, etc. back in the original location for welding. They get drilled/reamed first before anything comes apart. Hows the TIG?
photo 1 - Patch tacked in. I need to get a small brake (minimum) so so I can get my bends a little straighter
photo 2 - Took my doors off a while back and now people walking past the garage ask - “is that an old Willys Jeep in there”.
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- Thread starter
- #212
Cleaned-up support plate.
Funny how some of that old gray Toyota primer stands up. Maybe the primer was baked on at the factory or something but it won't come off that easily with paint remover, etc. This part had some of my old POR15 on it which just bubbled up and fell off, the original primer under the POR15 was a lot tougher to remove. Makes me wonder if just going with a good epoxy primer/sealer in future in place of POR15 might make more sense?
POR15 is supposedly made to go over cleaned and treated steel that still has some surface rust. Everybody says to put epoxy primer on "clean" steel. I'm beginning to think epoxy primer (depending on the product line) might be as good or better than POR (as long as the metal has been cleaned and treated). But I have heard some epoxy primer lines (like House of Kolor) react badly to steel treated by some rust removers.
Cured epoxy primer seems to add more protection than rattle-can weld primer and still be weldable - where POR15 is a mess (and toxic) around welding. So I guess POR15 could be best used when some rust is present and you can't get the steel really clean, blasted - like down inside a rocker seam with surface rust, etc. and as long as you don't need to weld.
Funny how some of that old gray Toyota primer stands up. Maybe the primer was baked on at the factory or something but it won't come off that easily with paint remover, etc. This part had some of my old POR15 on it which just bubbled up and fell off, the original primer under the POR15 was a lot tougher to remove. Makes me wonder if just going with a good epoxy primer/sealer in future in place of POR15 might make more sense?
POR15 is supposedly made to go over cleaned and treated steel that still has some surface rust. Everybody says to put epoxy primer on "clean" steel. I'm beginning to think epoxy primer (depending on the product line) might be as good or better than POR (as long as the metal has been cleaned and treated). But I have heard some epoxy primer lines (like House of Kolor) react badly to steel treated by some rust removers.
Cured epoxy primer seems to add more protection than rattle-can weld primer and still be weldable - where POR15 is a mess (and toxic) around welding. So I guess POR15 could be best used when some rust is present and you can't get the steel really clean, blasted - like down inside a rocker seam with surface rust, etc. and as long as you don't need to weld.
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- Thread starter
- #213
Seat support area almost patched.
Putting together a universal work-station/bench with heavy-duty casters so I can move it around the garage. I don’t have lots of space and anything with wheels always seems to work out well. The idea is that I’ll be able to use it for a number things - weld table/work station - steel top/wood top - mount a vise/small brake, etc. etc.
Anyone know of a captivated-nut/insert system that would work well for getting some good threads (3/8-16, flush) in the steel tubing (1/8 inch) walls with no access?
Putting together a universal work-station/bench with heavy-duty casters so I can move it around the garage. I don’t have lots of space and anything with wheels always seems to work out well. The idea is that I’ll be able to use it for a number things - weld table/work station - steel top/wood top - mount a vise/small brake, etc. etc.
Anyone know of a captivated-nut/insert system that would work well for getting some good threads (3/8-16, flush) in the steel tubing (1/8 inch) walls with no access?
- Thread starter
- #214
The "tank"
Size is 24" x 48" by 34" tall (before casters) kind of around a larger Snap-on box. A bit on the high side for my old tall (and heavy) chin-chin vise
Goobered-up the welds, never welded 1/8" tube before. Put .030 wire in the machine and cranked it up so I think they are strong - just not very pretty (more grinding). Hard to judge penetration on that dark square tubing with no experience. Probably weld a 1/4" steel top/shelf and attach whatever material, removable tops to that. Still need to weld caster plates to the bottom.
Never mind the photo perspective, top/sides seem square within an 1/8".
Size is 24" x 48" by 34" tall (before casters) kind of around a larger Snap-on box. A bit on the high side for my old tall (and heavy) chin-chin vise
Goobered-up the welds, never welded 1/8" tube before. Put .030 wire in the machine and cranked it up so I think they are strong - just not very pretty (more grinding). Hard to judge penetration on that dark square tubing with no experience. Probably weld a 1/4" steel top/shelf and attach whatever material, removable tops to that. Still need to weld caster plates to the bottom.
Never mind the photo perspective, top/sides seem square within an 1/8".
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Rivnuts...
McMaster-Carr
frame set
it is a threaded collar that is swagged into a hole. They can be flush or protrude slightly.
McMaster-Carr
frame set
it is a threaded collar that is swagged into a hole. They can be flush or protrude slightly.
- Thread starter
- #216
Thanks 78Cruzr - I've used those Rivet Nuts before to install door panels on my 80 pickup - found some that were a perfect match for the factory holes. They need a special tool to install (think I used something home-made at the time). They do leave a flange on the surface but that may not be a problem.
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
I've installed Rivet Nut Inserts flush on numerous jobs. It only takes a minor coutersink to get them flush, but you need to install them straight and without any rotation. I like the fact that they are designed for grade 8 (SAE) or 12.9 (metric)hardware. I have 3/8-16 installed in my rear crossmember to secure the rear aux fuel tank to the frame. I find the field kit the easiest to use on the larger inserts because I can use my impact wrench to drive them home and then I chase the threads with a tap.
Nut Inserts
Bsevans...would you trust those 3/8 rivnuts to hold a custom made swing away tire carrier?
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
I certainly wouldn't. They're mainly designed to allow a nut to be inserted into sheetmetal where there isn't sufficient meat to drill and tap a hole for a bolt.
Check out post #2 for more install/tool info on rivnuts.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/va-dc-md-capital-land-cruiser-club/92402-rivnut-tool-needed.html
Thanks, Dan
