Not generally required in that location. Usually don’t have to mess with expansion fittings until you see runs over 100’ IIRC. Where’d that damn code book go…
Building a new house and shop (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 1911
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That makes sense- in idaho we had to run 400’ or so
I really like this thread and enjoy seeing it slowly get moving again. Find too much work and we won’t see any progress!
I really like this thread and enjoy seeing it slowly get moving again. Find too much work and we won’t see any progress!
1911
chupacabra
- Thread starter
- #624
A question for the electricians (or at least someone with more knowledge than I); @mdsims , @PIP , @bkfj40 , @rkymtnflyfisher , etc.
Wiring up my single-phase, three-wire meter base and 200-amp disconnect (200 amp service). My electric co-op uses the "red on the right" convention, so that's what I will do between the meter and the disconnect and the house main panel, but the two live (hot) wires from the transformer pedestal (not connected yet) are identical cables and not marked. Does it matter which one I use for red? If it does matter, how do I determine which one should be "red"?
Thanks for your experience/insight.
Wiring up my single-phase, three-wire meter base and 200-amp disconnect (200 amp service). My electric co-op uses the "red on the right" convention, so that's what I will do between the meter and the disconnect and the house main panel, but the two live (hot) wires from the transformer pedestal (not connected yet) are identical cables and not marked. Does it matter which one I use for red? If it does matter, how do I determine which one should be "red"?
Thanks for your experience/insight.
Imo, nope, use whichever on either side. They'll either be 180* or 120* off phase from each other, but it doesn't matter for your use.
1911
chupacabra
- Thread starter
- #628
OK, thanks guys; I was hoping that would be the case but wanted to make sure. I'll post photos when I'm done. Still waiting on some 2/0 THHN copper wire to be delivered.
I did get my 8' ground rod hammered in and hooked up to the disconnect neutral bus; still need to run more 6-gauge copper to the meter base from there.
I did get my 8' ground rod hammered in and hooked up to the disconnect neutral bus; still need to run more 6-gauge copper to the meter base from there.
Sounds like good progress!
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
1911
chupacabra
- Thread starter
- #632
The meter base and disconnect are all wired up and ready for the meter, and to be hooked up to the house.
![IMG_2096[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1440' height='1920' viewBox%3D'0 0 1440 1920'%2F%3E "IMG_2096[1].JPG")
I'm pretty pleased with myself for all I've learned about single-phase AC power, and to be able to do all this myself. I guess I'll see if the power co-op approves or not when they come to set the meter. That might be a while, because I've got to put up an interior wall for the main circuit panel in the house, pull cables from there to the disconnect, and trench for conduit before I'll need the meter.
I'm pretty pleased with myself for all I've learned about single-phase AC power, and to be able to do all this myself. I guess I'll see if the power co-op approves or not when they come to set the meter. That might be a while, because I've got to put up an interior wall for the main circuit panel in the house, pull cables from there to the disconnect, and trench for conduit before I'll need the meter.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
I'm probably wrong about this, I don't have much experience with single phase residential services, and it's been a few since I've installed a commercial service.
The bare copper wire between the main OCPD (overcurrent protection device) and the meter base is creating a parallel path to ground with the grounded conductor (aka neutral), something in the back of my mind tells me that's not correct.
I'm thinking that the bare copper needs to be removed from the meter base to the main OCPD ground buss.
You are establishing the correct grounding electrode, grounding electrode conductor in the main OCPD enclosure.
At the end of the day it all boils down to what the AHJ deems correct based on local codes and the NEC.
The bare copper wire between the main OCPD (overcurrent protection device) and the meter base is creating a parallel path to ground with the grounded conductor (aka neutral), something in the back of my mind tells me that's not correct.
I'm thinking that the bare copper needs to be removed from the meter base to the main OCPD ground buss.
You are establishing the correct grounding electrode, grounding electrode conductor in the main OCPD enclosure.
At the end of the day it all boils down to what the AHJ deems correct based on local codes and the NEC.
1911
chupacabra
- Thread starter
- #634
OK, thanks Ryan, I will look into that. The only reason I did it that way is because that's the way the identical meter base and OCPD that are on my shop building were wired by a real electrician - but that doesn't necessarily mean it's right! In any event, the guys from the co-op that come to plug in the meter will see it and let me know how they want/expect it done.
Edited to add: Possibly it should just go to a grounding bushing in the meter base enclosure? I didn't actually open the existing meter base on the shop, because it has the co-op security wire loop on it. But the shop one definitely does have the #6 solid copper wire going from the neutral bus in the OCPD into the meter base enclosure through the conduit.
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rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Everything should be bonded ahead of the main, it may very well go to a bond bushing on the conduit fitting on the inside of the meter enclosure.
Edit- I'm actually surprised that you can run that service in pvc, most areas require rigid metallic conduit.
Every place is different though!
Edit- I'm actually surprised that you can run that service in pvc, most areas require rigid metallic conduit.
Every place is different though!
I agree on the parallel ground/bond being suspect, also for us up here that (small) exposed solid system ground would not fly, again everywhere has its own norm’s.
I also did notice the Klein stripper, very nice, I’ve never seen one in the field.
I also did notice the Klein stripper, very nice, I’ve never seen one in the field.
1911
chupacabra
- Thread starter
- #637
The Klein stripper was almost $50 on Amazon, but I'm going to be doing more stripping when I run wire from the OCPD into the house main panel, so I splurged. Works great and very easy/quick to strip.
RE: using a bonding bushing; seems like the ground would still be connected to the neutral bus in the meter enclosure since the neutral bus is just bolted directly to the enclosure?
RE: metallic vs. PVC conduit and exposed solid system ground: there are no codes or inspections out here, only the specs put out by the electric co-op. They actually specified #6 soft-drawn solid copper wire.
Looks good. One thing I'd add (and those with more experience can weigh in) is that having seen hundreds of connections, over time I've seen those "bolt" connections to the ground rod loosen up or become corroded every so often. Granted most don't have any problems, but when there is an issue it can be troublesome to track down, cause issues, and potentially damage things.
On my home and shop, I used these: nVent ERICO Cadweld One Shot - https://www.nvent.com/en-us/erico/products/nvent-erico-cadweld-one-shot
You can get permanent molds if you're doing a lot of them, but the disposable "one shot" is great if you're just needing a few connections.
It permanently welds the cable and ground rod together.
On my home and shop, I used these: nVent ERICO Cadweld One Shot - https://www.nvent.com/en-us/erico/products/nvent-erico-cadweld-one-shot
You can get permanent molds if you're doing a lot of them, but the disposable "one shot" is great if you're just needing a few connections.
It permanently welds the cable and ground rod together.
