Budget Dual Battery System

[Funner]

Anyone have a complete parts kit list for all the Blue Sea components needed to do this the best way possible?[/QUOTE

Me thinks you're over thinking this;p
I read this thread a couple times, then a bunch of other set ups. I concluded this one was everything I needed and nothing I didn't. The only part I bought that came from Blue Sea was the isolator shown mounted to the firewall. The rest is just cable, fuses/fuse holders, wire fittings, wire ties, etc.
I have 2x10AWG lines running from the 2nd battery to the back of the truck. The two lines are fused right after the battery and in the cargo area I have mounted two 12v DC trolling motor outlets to plug in (1) my fridge/freezer and the 2nd is a duplicate for the fridge and or for other 12v applications. I have made a standard 12v dc adapter to use with this second outlet if needed. I ran a third 8AWG line to the rear that powers a small inverter for 110v power if needed.
I installed everything in 4 hours, not including the time I spent making my own washer bottle relocation bracket.
I experimented with a couple 12v dc outlets and found the standard type is just not a good solution when bouncing around a bit.

 

[CowboyUp]

Hi

I have a dual battery system on my rig installed too, but the relay its not lighted at all. its a way to check if the relay its working or its a lemon?

thanks

 

[Bluetribal]

Thought I would add, genuinedealz.com sells marine grade battery cable for a very good price. They also sell Blue Sea.
Best part for me, they will custom build the cables to your desired length. It costs 1.00 labor to install the lug and heat shrink.
Free Shipping as well I could go on.
It was better than I expected.

Thank you so much for this!

 

[CycloSteve]

Finally bit the bullet and bought my DieHard Platinum Marine battery. Upcoming trip, and new fridge mean that the good old Toyota battery failed my two-day draw-down test.

Steve

 

[Skillet]

Great information here.

Blue Sea 7622 ordered @ $169 delivered, marine 1/0 cable ordered ($2.17 per foot delivered...zing)

Various other tidbits ordered...$45.

Already did a more simplistic version in my 80 a few years back, but I am puting this in my 40 and I will post pics if you folks would like.

Thanks for the leads and good info.

 

[The Jade Bean]

Great information here.

Blue Sea 7622 ordered @ $169 delivered, marine 1/0 cable ordered ($2.17 per foot delivered...zing)

Various other tidbits ordered...$45.

Already did a more simplistic version in my 80 a few years back, but I am puting this in my 40 and I will post pics if you folks would like.

Thanks for the leads and good info.

Yes, pics plz.

-Daniel Kent

 

[NW40]

marine 1/0 cable ordered ($2.17 per foot delivered...zing)

Skillet,

Where did you find 1/0 marine cable for $2.17/foot? I was looking at genuinedealz.com, and they show it for $5.24/ft. Would definitely like to pay half that if the deal you found is still available!

-Chad

 

[coax]

Great information here.

Blue Sea 7622 ordered @ $169 delivered, marine 1/0 cable ordered ($2.17 per foot delivered...zing)

Various other tidbits ordered...$45.

Already did a more simplistic version in my 80 a few years back, but I am puting this in my 40 and I will post pics if you folks would like.

Thanks for the leads and good info.

Don't forget a few extra lengths of ~16g wire for the remote switch (Unless you have a bunch lying around).

 

[iptman]

Skillet,

Where did you find 1/0 marine cable for $2.17/foot? I was looking at genuinedealz.com, and they show it for $5.24/ft. Would definitely like to pay half that if the deal you found is still available!

-Chad

x2, I want in on that deal!

 

[Luke111]

Better yet where did AustinCruiser buy 10ft of 1g for $12

I think 1g is over kill

Lou

 

[warezdog]

http://warezdog777.blogspot.com/

halfway down is the Blue sea kit I used, add a battery. Also opted for a blue sea safety hub for the accessories.

Works like a champ. All other parts sourced from Delcity and I used welding cable as it was easy to source on ebay and cheap too, you can find all sorts of odd lenghts cheap. Brought the LED from the ACR into the cab so I know when they're combined or isolated. You can get the add a battery kit for sub $100 if you look hard enough and can find the saftey hub for less than half that.

I also went to interstate battery distributer and asked for a "BLEM" snatched a 31 for $40, this is the only way I buy batteries now, only 90 day warranty but they're all Interstates.

 

[Skillet]

Skillet,

Where did you find 1/0 marine cable for $2.17/foot? I was looking at genuinedealz.com, and they show it for $5.24/ft. Would definitely like to pay half that if the deal you found is still available!

-Chad

There is a guy on ebay who is selling 23' in a kit of one 11' and one 12' length for $44 + shipping. I bought a few and it got my per foot price down to $2.17...I will use the extra to wire the trailer. All tinned copper, marine wire.

I know 1/0 is overkill...is overkill a bad thing where wiring is concerned when you get the wire for less than smaller gauge?

You tell me.

Don't forget a few extra lengths of ~16g wire for the remote switch (Unless you have a bunch lying around).

I've got a ton of it. Thanks!

x2, I want in on that deal!

See above...

I just checked yesterday and he still has a bunch.

 

[warezdog]

Overkill is never a bad thing when you're pulling a huge potential of amps, I used 250AMP mega fuses within a foot of each pos battery connection to be safe, they're the weakest link and meant to be so. I could have used cooper breakers but they get pricey, replacing a mega isn't convienent but you can find them all day long on ebay for cheap too so I carry 5 in the glovebox, better safe than sorry. I don't ever want to comeout and see my rig burnt to a pile of ash.

 

[js93cruiser]

So you just run the power wire from the main batt, to the #7622, then connect it to the aux batt and then just ground the aux batt to the firewall?

 

[js93cruiser]

Anyone try this kit? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00400D6WU/ref=aw_d_dsc_automotive

 

[warezdog]

I just followed the basic directions on the blue sea kit. The wires off the starter and alt go straight to the switch.

 

[coax]

I just followed the basic directions on the blue sea kit. The wires off the starter and alt go straight to the switch.

Just as a note for others, the engine and start isolation wires are present but not necessary for the unit to function.

Out of curiosity, did you actually install one of the engine isolation wires to the alternator? I'm going from memory but I would imagine that's never letting the latch close and join the batteries? I honestly don't know how the Engine Isolation ever would let the batteries join since its sensing current on the isolation wires anytime either engine is running, but I would also expect that if one alternator was hooked to an isolation wire, it would essentially function like it was permanently in start isolation.

So you just run the power wire from the main batt, to the #7622, then connect it to the aux batt and then just ground the aux batt to the firewall?

There's a good wiring diagram on blue sea's website that breaks it down really well. http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180180.pdf Yes, the house battery must be grounded to a GOOD ground point, just like the starting battery.

 

[JCruse]

OK finally finished up my "over budget" installation, including plumbing the electrics to the rear PS panel for the "Household" circuits. With the 2nd battery, I opted for an 80 amp BlueSea circuit breaker to protect the rear, plus ran 6ga marine-grade wires (both pos and neg)all the way to the rear. For now I have the OEM battery in the 2nd position, and a new DieHard Group 31 Platinum as the main.

Here are a few shots of the final results, including my HAM install. This was a very long-term project, actually started at least 18 months ago when I aquired the battery box. The next step is to add my 300 watt pure sinewave inverter into the rear of the truck.



Steve

For more info on my HAM setup see...https://forum.ih8mud.com/electronic...8900-overhead-console-installation-fzj80.html

Main battery and switch for the winch



Second battery - OEM for now, deep-cycle DieHard once this one dies



BlueSea 80A Circuit breaker mounted to PS fenderwell



Rear Fuse Panel

I'm thinking of doing a dual battery system also, but to truly isolate the starter battery, how do you tie the second one into the car accessories like the stereo and interior lights?






.

 

[warezdog]

Just as a note for others, the engine and start isolation wires are present but not necessary for the unit to function.

Out of curiosity, did you actually install one of the engine isolation wires to the alternator?

Mine was this one http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990310020.pdf

I ran extra wire to bring the LED into the cab so I know when they're isoloated or combined when charging and I tapped the signal wire going into the starter for what they call "optional start isolation" in the diagram. Everything else is pretty straightforward.

All stock "house loads" are moved to the A/B switch, the alternator is also moved to the AB switch. I think my blog has a good amount of pictures and the photo album does as well, both links are in my sig. I used breakers and fuses, fused each pos within a foot of the terminal and used a 150 breaker to run power into the cab off the house battery to the Blue Sea safety hub.

Odd lengths of welding cable sourced off fleabay, all soldered connections using propane torch and lugs from delcity and extra heat shrink applied at the lugs and where ever there would be any cable rub.

250A mega fuses were used, buy them off ebay used for a couple bucks each, ford seems to be the cheap source for them, the holders also came from fleabay. As far as the Blue Sea componets I just google shopped using the PN and found the best prices I could.

I thought about having wire premade but I'm really OCD with the truck and wanted everything just perfect and soldering these lugs on big wire is really easy, you just coil up a bunch of solder and stick it in and heat it with the torch until it puddles and insert wire.

 

[warezdog]

I forgot to add if you have a Interstate Battery warehouse, not a dealer, nearby go and ask for BLEMS, (AKA BLEMISHED)

I got mine cheap, about $35 will get you a group 31, only a 90 day warranty, they range from $25-$40 depending on group and post config, make sure you have a core because they add that to the bill if you don't and if for any reason you're not happy they'll exchange for free within the 3 month period.

Been using them for years and one of the best kept secrets I've found yet in the never ending auto expense world.