Broken e locker. Options? (1 Viewer)

[BGMachine]

Hey all,

so on my last couple of wheeling trips, my rear locker has been less than enthusiastic about engaging and disengaging. On the last trip, it would engage at all. not even with some "encouragement" from some hammer taps. well, I figured it needed a rebuild so I took off the rock guard and started to take it off when I noticed something... The cover is cracked all the way across ! As well as the mating surface for the motor looks to be pretty far gone. What I want to know is, is this cover replaceable? Does anybody think that the unit will be recoverable being that I live deep within the rust belt? Can I interchange it with any other part? I think I saw somewhere that a 4runner has the same actuator? Any advice on next step / available parts would be greatly appreciated

 

[jfz80]

careful with those hammer taps


I wonder if you cant find someone that has replaced their actuator because of internal corrosion that may have a cover for you.
Worth a post in the wanted section ...... part outs will probably want to sell the whole thing (which you may want anyways)

 

[Joshwho44]

It looks like RockAuto has one left in stock, AISIN SAT001, for $414

 

[Joshwho44]

Although you might be ok, look at this one:

And to show how tough these actuators can be..... this one was brought back from the dead:

It ended up like this, working well although very noisy in operation.

 

[BGMachine]

It looks like RockAuto has one left in stock, AISIN SAT001, for $414

yeah I saw that. sadly that's the cheapest one that I can find. most new ones are $700+ and cruiserparts has a used one for ~$500. why do these rigs have to be so expensive? haha Holy crap that's bad! If I rebuild it, I'm going to have to wait for the summer when I won't use the truck as much.

careful with those hammer taps


I wonder if you cant find someone that has replaced their actuator because of internal corrosion that may have a cover for you.
Worth a post in the wanted section ...... part outs will probably want to sell the whole thing (which you may want anyways)

I thought I was haha. but if that crack has been there a while and water got in, that definitely explains why it didn't want to do anything in below freezing temps. I'll give the classifieds a shot. That, or save up for a new one and hopefully eliminate the headache.

 

[KLF]

Contact @landtank, he rebuilds them, he might have some cores.

 

[landtank]

can't help you with this one. Rock auto is where to go.

 

[landtoy80]

Not sure if anyone sells the cable locker anymore but I replaced mine with Downey Cable Locker.
I had to make modifications to it to make it work in salt environments.

 

[47coeman]

I would love to be able to reproduce the Downey set up doesn't look like it is 2 complicated just need the measurements. I need 2 set up's
Front and rear. Let me know if I could work something out.

 

[My4x4FJ40]

Guys as soon as I get my machine shop setup I'm hoping to be making something similar to the Downy set up as I need one for myself and I will be making others don't know of a price as of yet but I will try to keep people informed

 

[47coeman]

The push pull cable is a no Braner
Just need the parts that mount on the 3rd member. Any idea as to work starting.

 

[Rifleman]

When i had problems with my front E locker, i pulled it off my truck trying to find out why i didn't work, when i opened it up it's insides were just as bright and shinny as the day it left the factory. After seeing what rust does to these units, I'm so glad my truck has lived it's whole live in the dry, and sunny southwest. To get you locker working again you might want to look in to something like a cable kit like what Landtoy80 said. Chilkat E Locker E-Racer Toyota Electric Locker Cable Conversion

 

[47coeman]

I have seen those but 575.
Outrageous for what you get. I don't mind them making a profit but there is a bunch of mark up.

 

[landtoy80]

Make the rod that goes into the diff out of stainless steel or it will rust and not work. I had to have my rod remade out of stainless steel. I also put the boot on it to keep it from freezing up in winter and keep crud out of it.

 

[LINUS]

That cover looks like you could JB weld it (short of fabbing a new one yourself, if not in your wheelhouse) - and once you do rebuild it, grease the snot out of the o-ring, and the connector socket.

If salt corrosion got in the connector, try scratching it all out & greasing - you never know, it could be that connector (longshot, but cheaper/easier).

 

[White Stripe]

You can convert it to use a pneumatic actuator. Should cost about 100 bucks and some labor not including a compressor or tank.