Biscuit is (still) Keeping The FJ40 - Customization/Improvement Thread (2 Viewers)

[65swb45]

Mike

The oil forward of the regulator did not come from the regulator. You will need to check the front galley plug as well as the timing cover. BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING NEAR THE ALTERNATOR!!!

 

[Biscuit]

Took a closer look at the two suspected oil leak sites, there isn't any oil build up indicative of a leak. It looks like that just happens to be where the block paint remained.

I removed the old gasket and used a razor blade to scrape off the remaining gasket and sealant.

 

[Biscuit]

Spent the last bit of daylight doing a test install of the headers. I will either need to remove the air filter bracket from the head (less desirable) or possibly the alternator to get the headers on.

The only upside to removing the air filter bracket is better access to some of the manifold bolts.

 

[DSRTRDR]

X2 on ceramic-coated headers - I made the mistake of no getting those when my I replaced my cracked header a few years ago (floorboard now gets hotter than before) - but I will when I need the next set of headers

 

[Biscuit]

I bit the bullet and carefully removed the air clearer bracket head bolts. The header is now installed.

I installed the exhaust that I got from Mark, reattached everyting for the carb and went to fire up the truck.

I got the 10 seconds cranking that I used to prime the carb, and a start attempt. On the second start attempt, as the engine was about to catch the starter stopped cranking. I tried again, the starter didn't get any electricity.

Turns out something is causing the self resetting circuit breaker I use as a fuseable link to trip about two seconds after I turn the ignition to on. I've had this gremlin before, and the self resetting breaker was the semipermanent fix.

What is odd about this is that the breaker is tripping but not resetting until I disconnect the battery and pull/reinstall the breaker housing.

I may try a new self resetting breaker as a stop-gap.

 

[Biscuit]

I did basic troubleshooting of the electrical system: battery voltage, continuity between segments, etc. I'm thinking I had a loose connection because the truck has electrical power once again.

I was able to start it right up, and it is much quieter now. I'd say that the new (to me) exhaust is even quieter than the SOR kit that it replaced. I'll have highway noise stats on that later.




Now that I have the exhaust done, I'm looking at little futzing projects to do while I keep the truck on the road.

First up is sealing a few sheet metal holes. I've tried to find via search ideas on how to plug the two cowl vent drain tube holes in the transmission hump. My quick and dirty measurement found the holes to be 3cm in diameter. Since 3cm is just over 1-1/8", I'm looking at these from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9600k519/=vta75v

Measured the holes with calipers and found them to be just over 3.5cm. 1-3/8" diameter plugs will be needed: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9600k522/=w0wzvc

 

[Biscuit]

The foam on the headliner finally fully disintegrated and is now resting on the roll cage.

Now that my 40 is far from pure, an OEM headliner is just something I would need to replace again in another several years.

I'm trying to decide between going with LizardSkin or the indoor/outdoor carpet option. The carpet is by far the less expensive option.

 

[Biscuit]

Finally found some time to work on the 40. The headliner had fully comedown and was resting on the roll cage, so headliner replacement is taking priority. This also gives me a chance to fix a few mistakes I made when I redid the hardtop back in 2003.

I removed the fiberglass cap and then the rain gutter. I was able to do this because instead of using rivets back in 2003, I atteched the fiberglass cap to the rain gutter with 6-32 stainless machine screws and nylock nuts. Back then, before 'Mud, I screwed up the weather stripping install. I had the CCOT garage door weather stripping for the top. I incorrectly installed it between the fiberglass and the rain gutter. To seal the gutter to the sides I used 3M strip calk.

In the picture the gutter is resting on the fiberglass cap.

This morning I removed the remaining headliner foam (the vinyl had fallen of the foam). A plastic 8" tape kife worked great to scrape the foam off the fiberglass. It then worked well to take most of the strip calk off.

I am planning on going the indoor outdoor carpet route for a new headliner.

I have an OEM rain gutter seal that will be correctly used this time to seal the rain gutter to the sides. The fiberglass cap will then be installed and sealed once secured to the rain gutter.

I'm thinking about once again going with the machine screws in place of rivets. The only thing giving me second thoughts is installing of a roof rack at some point. The heads of the rivets should only protrude ~0.045" above the fiberglass, while the panhead screws will protrude double that at ~0.090".

I'm slightly worried that this would prevent the rack feet from making even contact in the rain gutter even after sealant reduces the effective height.

 

[White Stripe]

I found some inexpensive boat material that is very close to the factory headliner in looks if you are interested.
SEA RAY MARINE GRADE 54in OFF WHITE FOAM BACK BOAT SEAT VINYL (YARD)

 

[Biscuit]

End of today's progress. I also removed the strip calk from the rain gutter and most of the hard top sides.

While I have the top apart I need to replace the welded in bolt on the driver's side door header, the bolt that connects to the L-bracket that connects to the windshield. I broke that off years ago. I figure while I have that apart I can use my dremel to remove the tack welds, fit a new bolt. I need to figure out the bolt size tonight to get a McMaster order in.

 

[Biscuit]

The carpet headliner is in. Not the best headliner install, but not bad for a couple of hours after work on a breezy afternoon.

I used 3M 90 adhesive and worked in sections from front to back. I botched one of the rear corners, but patched it up. Once I have it installed on the rain gutter it should look just fine.

 

[Biscuit]

Put the gutter back on with a OEM weather seal I had sourced from Beno a long time ago. Wow is that better than the garage door weather seal or whatever CCOT sells.

Once I have an extra set of hands (probably tomorrow), the cap will go back on with machine screws. After that I will seal the cap to the gutter and be back on the road.

 

[Biscuit]

Sometime ago I broke off the bolt on the header bar that connects to the L-bracket that then bolts to the windshield. I ran for years without it. Well while I have the header bars open, it would be a good time to fix it. The bolt is appears to be a cross drive JIS flat head M8 18mm long. It is secured to the door header bar by to tack welds.

I figure I can use my dremel to grind the welds off and get the screw out. Since finding the JIS screw may be probemmatic, I may just use a phillips drive flat head M8 20mm long. The spec for this scew at Bolt Depot appears to have the wider head (~15.5mm) similar to the OEM screw head.

 

[65swb45]

Mike

That screw is readily available as a door striker screw.

 

[Biscuit]

That screw is readily available as a door striker screw.

The door striker screws (well at least the ones on my truck) are shorter. I'm concerned that there won't be enough thread exposed for the nut to hold on to.

Pic of door striker screw and door header screw:

 

[65swb45]

If you want to shorten one, I have a 30mm version.

 

[Biscuit]

Put the cap back on and sealed it.

I think it turned out pretty well.

 

[65swb45]

Bling, bling, bling! Maybe when I get the rack off of the karma cruiser for powdercoat I'll get ambitious and tackle the top. Maybe.

 

[YOYOKID]

Hey Biscuit Its looking very good we need to get together and compare notes...
I liked your Tunnel Find... i went for the Cut and fill method. One thing i did differently was the Coating the Inside of the Hump with Al's Heat Noise reducer I put 4 coats of this stuff and 2 coats of spray on Bed-liner. sofar it is very cool... or cooler to the touch..
HNR Heat and Noise Reducer

Hope all is well
D

 

[Biscuit]

Hey Biscuit Its looking very good we need to get together and compare notes...
I liked your Tunnel Find... i went for the Cut and fill method. One thing i did differently was the Coating the Inside of the Hump with Al's Heat Noise reducer I put 4 coats of this stuff and 2 coats of spray on Bed-liner. sofar it is very cool... or cooler to the touch..
HNR Heat and Noise Reducer

I still need to do that one of these days, my tunnel is still black spray paint over the original red. I just wanted to get it back on the road.