Best Birfield for the money –

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LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Threads
1,116
Messages
25,278
Location
Graham County, Arizona
I need one new birfield but more than likely I will replace both. I would like three options before I order and would like to hear from personal experience, general feedback and get some options.

1- Money no object…the strongest, best turning radius, highest quality, and long lasting (without changing the axle).

2 - Logical…Given the vehicle and it usage at a reasonable price

3 – Frugal (aka cheapest)…Just get it on the road it will be OK

Vehicle
96 FZJ80
Supercharged
110k
Big tires
Low gears
Heavy


Driving style
SW terrain
20% off road (4wd required)
80% paved road
I don’t beat on it hard, but it needs to go the way you point it and sometimes that requires the use of the skinny pedal. :flipoff2:

Thanks Phil
 
1) OEM at suggested list.




2) OEM, smart shopper type....:D



3) Known good, used OEM.
 
1) OEM.
2) OEM treated by Bobby.
3) Used OEM.
 
Phil-while I don't know for sure, I do know that OEM is almost always better for anything. A supercharged and geared cruiser used off road is probably the toughest service a cruiser axle will see. If it was me, I would get OEM for sure. They are $$ but buy one now, and one in 6 months, then it won't seem so bad. Once replaced, you'll get another 100k out of them or more. In that light it doesn't seem so expensive. If you want to sell the used ones you have, PM me.
 
the only down side to bobbies treated birfields are that they will wear out faster in a full time rig. christo has had some in the short bus and they are starting to make sounds already. /the treating makes them softer so they can flex and not break. OEM is the best in my experence and will last the longest. later robbie
 
The add says 432 6668. Maybe different extension? Or maybe I typed it in wrong on my new phone?


Only C-dan knows lol.
 
I was talking with Will Carroll (Toyota Master Tech, onesprung60 on this board) just yesterday about this. He'd told be they can be rebuilt for about $175. Dunno if this is a good solution, but it's definitely cheaper than a new OEM one.
 
Cory,
you live in one of the few places that has a shop that will do this and do it well, if you peat on them it will only cost you $150. I did it to mine 30 k ago and it seems to work well. cvaxles unlimited on 21st and state. they will tear down adn repack the ball ned adn build and then remachine the ahsaft where the inner oil seal wears a litle groove on the inner shaft. outside of SLC I am not sure who does this.
Dave
 
PHAEDRUS said:
...cvaxles unlimited on 21st and state. they will tear down adn repack the ball ned adn build and then remachine the ahsaft where the inner oil seal wears a litle groove on the inner shaft. ...

Yup, I have taken sets there with great results... Not a strength upgrade by any means, but gets rid of the ticker... :D
 
The one thing about rebuilding is that they do not usually use any inner parts that are old. The rebuilder we use will not tell us where they get the replacement part from, they source them from many manufacutres. so some you may not know what the quality of the inner parts are. But I do agree that it would be fine to try if you do not wheel your truck hard, and daily drive it. if it is a trailer queen then bobbies would be a good choice, but daily driver and wheeler where you depend on the quality them you can not beat the wear and strength of a OEM joint until some one sources a high quality joint from over seas. later robbie
 
CruisinGA said:
call c-dan and he'll let ya know. :D

1800 432 6669 yes it is in my speed dial. :D

Gee, I just dial 823-4440, and yes, it's in my head.
 
Is the left side usually the first to go on full time Cruisers? Isn't it the primary drive wheel?

Looks like OEM is the way I will go once I get past the sticker shock.

The only up side I can come up with is I have a complete knuckel kit already.
 
Landtank - I put treated OEMs as my second choice because in Phil's first choice he said he wanted long lasting and once treated they definitly are not that, they won't break but the clicking will drive you mad after 10,000 miles, Brad.
 

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