Best Aftermarket headLights For Fj40

[GA Architect]

I shortened and installed the kit. I'm also no longer using my ammeter, so I have no idea how many amps it's drawing. I'm running a GM internally regulated alt. I will say, my lighting has improved significantly.
Ill be watching what other folks experiences are. Looking at your pic, it appears you removed 1 relay and fuse. I'm curious as to why.

Both relay & both fuse are still there. The relay are bolted together in the table pic so the angle doesn't show them, and the fuses are silicon taped together, a better table pic is below.....see the installed pic for the relay bracket, and the fuses are tucked under them.

Rick ,

what did you modify when you installed the 60p70 Kit , H4 lamps and included wire harness ?

I just removed the bulk wire & sleeving, as seen in the first pic above....used butt-crimps and wrapped the harness back up with harness tape.

 

[Rocky_LC]

Just ordered two sets from Desert Toyota ($16 each) of the Kiyoto lights.

We’ll see what happens. They took my money, anyway.

Rocky

 

[77mustard40]

What was your amp draw prior to installing the kit?

I don't have an exact measurement, just an observation of the AMP gauge where prior to installation of the new relays and harness the gauge barely moved when the old lights were turned on

 

[GA Architect]

Just ordered two sets from Desert Toyota ($16 each) of the Kiyoto lights.

We’ll see what happens. They took my money, anyway.

Rocky

They are still out there....received two kits last week. $16.59 each with $11 shipping from South Atlanta Toyota.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Both relay & both fuse are still there. The relay are bolted together in the table pic so the angle doesn't show them, and the fuses are silicon taped together, a better table pic is below.....see the installed pic for the relay bracket, and the fuses are tucked under them.

View attachment 3504400

View attachment 3504387


I just removed the bulk wire & sleeving, as seen in the first pic above....used butt-crimps and wrapped the harness back up with harness tape.

If i understand you AMP meter gauge pegged at 30+ term correctly Rick ?

then in a perfect world that would mean the 27020- DENSO you are sporting there was in full field mode , or simply put for some reason still to be determined ?
your 27700-60100 3-wire green plug voltage regulator or some where in-between is telling the 27020- DENSO to pump out full amperage , as if the battery was VERY dead , or like i have only ever seen the early 30A gauge peg-out to the + side like that is when i started the truck , and had just slid the Battey cable over the lead lug , and it easily fell off and it did not know it ?


Any TOYOTA will continue to run if you pull a battery cable off , its living off the Alternator B+ & NEG- current exclusively , its a quikie eazy peezy way to confirm and verify a Dead or Dying soon to be dead Alternator of any kind , but this trade-technique it is ONLY to be done for single digit metric seconds to be very klear , do to the whole FULL FIELD mode it is put into instantly. buy giving it a short-term stress test , you know if the 27020 , or 27060 is faulty almost instantly ......


i hope this helps ?

make sure BOTH battery cables & Terminals are snug as before ...


matt

 

[Yoda]

I don't have an exact measurement, just an observation of the AMP gauge where prior to installation of the new relays and harness the gauge barely moved when the old lights were turned on

Power to your old lights came through the harness on the alternator side of the ammeter. The relays provide power to the new lights direct from the battery. So the ammeter shows like it is charging the battery.

 

[Green Bean]

Both relay & both fuse are still there. The relay are bolted together in the table pic so the angle doesn't show them, and the fuses are silicon taped together, a better table pic is below.....see the installed pic for the relay bracket, and the fuses are tucked under them.

View attachment 3504400

View attachment 3504387


I just removed the bulk wire & sleeving, as seen in the first pic above....used butt-crimps and wrapped the harness back up with harness tape.

Rick: That is a nice neat solution for mounting your relays. I would expect nothing less.

 

[GA Architect]

Thanks for the info.

Went for a short drive without the lights to see what the AMP gauge read.
With lights on:

Lights off:

Sitting at a red light without lights:

Photo taken a few years ago...

Seems without the lights, not much change in the readings. Eh, I'll monitor this...maybe a few days without the battery hooked up cased the high charging.

Carry on!

 

[Chilkoot]

@GA Architect thanks for the heads up with the South Atlanta Dealer. They’re the first one to honor that flat shipping up to Alaska. Great deal!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Has anyone else seen this anomaly with their installs?

Definitely an increase in amp draw on the system, I notice it more during the winter months, maybe I just don't use headlights enough in the summer to notice. Last week I had to replace my turn signal flasher relay, I'm pretty sure at idle my alternator isn't keeping up with the amperage that the lights are drawing, causing my voltage to drop low enough that the flasher relay wasn't working properly. It could be a combination of several factors, age, temperature, rpm, you name it. But I definitely have noticed the additional load from the light upgrade.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Thanks for the info.

Went for a short drive without the lights to see what the AMP gauge read.
With lights on:
View attachment 3504494
Lights off:
View attachment 3504495



Sitting at a red light without lights:
View attachment 3504486

Photo taken a few years ago...
View attachment 3504488

Seems without the lights, not much change in the readings. Eh, I'll monitor this...maybe a few days without the battery hooked up cased the high charging.

Carry on!

My ammeter drops back down towards the middle pretty quickly after the lights are tuned off, you might want to start checking some things. Condition of the battery, any new electric stuff, or lights or power doing something that it hasn't before. Any USB chargers? Your pellet grill plugged in?

Did it drop below 45 down there?!

 

[aztoyman]

I put a set on my 52 Ford ( Sorry, I don't have a LC to compare ) with a 30 amp generator and mechanical voltage regulator. No excessive amp draw. Even at idle. Maybe my generator spins faster.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Real world numbers from this morning.


12.1vdc engine off
12.5 vdc low idle, no lights
14.1 vdc @1K rpm, and @2k rpm, no lights.
Lights on @ idle, voltage started @12.5 vdc, dropped to 11.7 vdc and held steady. Ammeter is in the negative territory.
Lights on @1,500 rpm, 12.9 vdc, slowly climbing, ammeter is in the positive territory.


I dug out a clamp meter that is good for DC amperage, it's a solid 9amps of current on the positive lead that supplies the new lights.

@1,500 rpm that went up to 9.5 amps.


All @ 50F in the garage.

 

[RevISK]

I just received this set (60p70) and it appears I don’t have the female connector, (4/80 year).

My harness is OG and unmolested for the most part. From the included harness, it would appear that the plug should be near the PS headlight.

@ToyotaMatt , do you have any input? I looked on your site and didn’t see an offering.

 

[RevISK]

I just received this set (60p70) and it appears I don’t have the female connector, (4/80 year).

My harness is OG and unmolested for the most part. From the included harness, it would appear that the plug should be near the PS headlight.

@ToyotaMatt , do you have any input? I looked on your site and didn’t see an offering.

I did a bit more searching and @CruiserTrash has an install thread and it appears the new harness plugs into one of the old headlight plugs.

Thought about that but seemed a little clunky.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I did a bit more searching and @CruiserTrash has an install thread and it appears the new harness plugs into one of the old headlight plugs.

Thought about that but seemed a little clunky.

This is exactly right. Pick left or right side old headlight socket and plug the harness in there. The harness then distributes to both new headlights.

 

[pb4ugo]

Yes, The only plug used from the stk harness is the plug for the headlight. The rest hooks up to the batt. I think most use the pass side because of the batt location. I shortened the harness for a cleaner look.

 

[RevISK]

Yes, The only plug used from the stk harness is the plug for the headlight. The rest hooks up to the batt. I think most use use the pass side because of the batt location. I shortened the harness for a cleaner look.

Thanks. Yes, there is a lot of spare wire there. Even more value for the buck I guess.

This is exactly right. Pick left or right side old headlight socket and plug the harness in there. The harness then distributes to both new headlights.

Thank you as well.

What did y’all do with the other, unused female plug? Bag it? Lop it off?

 

[pb4ugo]

I think I taped over the plug where the headlight connects to eliminate any chance of grounding and zip stripped to something. I figure if there's a problem with the harness I can still hook up the stk wiring.

 

[franklin40]

i just tucked it aside. it’s a female plug so little chance of it completing a circuit to short out so it’s just hanging out. best $36 i’ve spent. they’re actually so good i’m considering just using them on my other build i was going to go all out and do jw speaker but these actually light up everything as well as my speakers do on my 62. i’m really impressed with how well they work!