"best" 2F

[BC40]

Flat top pistons with closed (quench) chamber heads is a more effecient setup that domes and open chamber heads for the type of rpm and flow rates that you will see in a 2F. Any 2F.
If you run flat tops in the open chamber head, compression drops a lot. Bad thing. If you run domes in the closed chamber head, the piston and the head try to occupy the same space at TDC. Worse thing.

If you want to run the earlier head, mill it to reduce the volume of the chamber to bring compression back up some. In the real world (as opposed to the dyno) you will never notice an difference in power or economy over the later head with this approach. But if you start with the later head and mill it too, you can attain higher compression.

Does anyone have a good photo of a domed piston versus a flat top?

I read over several 2F builds but the only clear pics I found are of engines that should have flat tops (Trollholes and Andrew Farmers). Both engines have pistons with a slightly raised center that is circular.

I am rebuilding a 2F that came from a canadian spec '78 FJ45. It appears to me that it has a flat top/open chamber combination. The pistons look just like the ones mentioned above. The chambers are oval not kidney shaped. I will probably just mill the head to increase the CR.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Does anyone have a good photo of a domed piston versus a flat top?

I read over several 2F builds but the only clear pics I found are of engines that should have flat tops (Trollholes and Andrew Farmers). Both engines have pistons with a slightly raised center that is circular.

I am rebuilding a 2F that came from a canadian spec '78 FJ45. It appears to me that it has a flat top/open chamber combination. The pistons look just like the ones mentioned above. The chambers are oval not kidney shaped. I will probably just mill the head to increase the CR.

Ask and you shall receive

 

[BC40]

Excellent thanks. Exactly what I was looking for. Mine are definitely flat top. I will have to do a fair bit of machining to make up the volume. I have a couple of F heads but don't feel like messing around with plumbing an oil line.

Your engine build was very informative Matt. Very interesting seeing the mods people do for competition .

 

[andrewfarmer]

Does anyone have a good photo of a domed piston versus a flat top?

I read over several 2F builds but the only clear pics I found are of engines that should have flat tops (Trollholes and Andrew Farmers). Both engines have pistons with a slightly raised center that is circular.

Mine are definately flat top - piston is completely flat.

 

[Trollhole]

Bump for an excellent read.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

This is the definitive 2F and I agree top thread. But Trollhole has the most funkadelic

 

[n2666s]

please tell us about all the wild ass plumbing!

Lou

 

[RockDoc]

please tell us about all the wild ass plumbing!

Lou

I assume you mean Matts 2F-ETI... here

 

[n2666s]

this is a great thread

great thread on Matts 2F-ETI....awesomejust way too rich for my blood; kinda like looking at a Ferrari TR; lovely to look at BUT!...... heck am using mine as a DD and my wifes fj60 is a kiddie hauler, just happy to have them run smoothly and dependably<LOL>in the past it seemed the more HP mods I made on hotrods the more undependable they became and the higher my tow bills were........only mods I make now are to keep the motors running longer; nothing pis*** athen to be stranded side the road with 4 kidsmy life is a lot happier if is happy........and she enjoys LCs

Lou

 

[Trollhole]

great thread on Matts 2F-ETI....awesomejust way too rich for my blood; kinda like looking at a Ferrari TR; lovely to look at BUT!...... heck am using mine as a DD and my wifes fj60 is a kiddie hauler, just happy to have them run smoothly and dependably<LOL>in the past it seemed the more HP mods I made on hotrods the more undependable they became and the higher my tow bills were........only mods I make now are to keep the motors running longer; nothing pis*** athen to be stranded side the road with 4 kidsmy life is a lot happier if is happy........and she enjoys LCs

Lou

Lou you could always be a little gay.

Bout as close as I could come to the best 2f for my budget.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/168967-big-gay-2f-build-tech.html

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Lou you could always be a little gay.

Bout as close as I could come to the best 2f for my budget.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/168967-big-gay-2f-build-tech.html

F is for funkadelic

 

[72cruiser]

so is that motor 'too funkadelik'?

 

[matt.mcinnes]

so is that motor 'too funkadelik'?

OH yes for sure that be a 2F

 

[n2666s]

Marshall; it is realy and truely Ghey....totally you have spent a ton of time and cash on this masterpiece and something like that is just way to purdy to put in my oily greasy rusty old engine bay..am just happy to have mine dependable..............was in the fj 60 a couple of years ago when she blew out the plug between 5 and 6...didn't notice the oil pressure was down or the temp was redline...thanks to this thread mine is now securely tapped in place and locktighted...thanks to all that have contributed to this awesome thread

Lou

 

[MtnTrucker]

-torx screws in timing plate(which should be added to any engine).


If the engine is gonna be spun, it should be balanced to zero. Early 2F and all F engines are often out by several OUNCES. No, not grams. Rods are out by 20 grams or more, cranks off by 50, flywheels off by 30. The only thing that keeps a 1971 F engine together at speed is sheer stubbornness. The 81-newer engines were destined for cushy FJ60 wagons, so they finally started paying attention to balancing. They are usually only out by an ounce.

HTH

Jim-Do the torx screws you refer to above replace the 3 flat head screw driver type screws in the timing plate? I can get these from Toyota.

Also, if I do a little self balancing on my rods, where do I take the material off of, the rod cap?

 

[Poser]

Do the torx screws you refer to above replace the 3 flat head screw driver type screws in the timing plate?

Yes.

I can get these from Toyota.

Yes, 90149-10001





.

 

[Trollhole]

Bringing this one back from the dead. Just a great thread to read.

Question. What about cryogenics. Could you not treat all the engine components to give them more life, make them stronger? I would thing the crank, connecting rods, cam and lifters would certainly bebefit.

 

[PabloCruise]

This is a great thread, glad to see it surface again!

 

[Brandon Iron]

Resurrection for a Question:

Earlier 2Fs (pre '81) do not have the drilled and tapped holes for mounting the PS pump. When Toyota added this feature, did they change that area of the casting at all, by adding material, bosses, flats, etc?

Would machining those holes into a '77 2F myself be possible/advisable? Assuming, of course, that I have the capabilities to do so. Admittedly a big assumption.

 

[subzali]

Resurrection for a Question:

Earlier 2Fs (pre '81) do not have the drilled and tapped holes for mounting the PS pump. When Toyota added this feature, did they change that area of the casting at all, by adding material, bosses, flats, etc?

Would machining those holes into a '77 2F myself be possible/advisable? Assuming, of course, that I have the capabilities to do so. Admittedly a big assumption.

Yes, they changed the area a bit (stolen from TJ's thread):

Drilling holes in cast iron, I've heard, is difficult without cracking it. I've heard it has been done for the exact reason of fitting a FJ60 power steering pump. There are tapped holes in the block from the factory, so I assume Toyota drilled and tapped the cast iron, so I'm sure it could be done. I don't know what's behind that location in the block though; if it's just solid cast iron all the way to the cylinder wall or what.