Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (17 Viewers)

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Update on Make 12. @Jczajka @DC470

This is printed with ABS in tan. For a smoother surface, you can sand, apply primer, sand again, and paint.

View attachment 2145803

Steps of assembling.
1: Secure the microphone.
2: Attache the Ethernet cable and slide the Scangauge II in the mount.
3: Snap into the overhead panel.
4: Have the bracket ready with screws.
5: Attach the bracket as shown in picture and tighten the screws.
Note: Don't over tight.
6: This is to show the complete assembly. No wires are visible.

View attachment 2145805
Probably totally impossible, I’m sure... but it would be really cool if you could push that scan gauge back up into the headliner, and push it again whenever you wanted it to slide down into place. It just sticks out so far and would be pretty trick if it could be hidden.
 
Probably totally impossible, I’m sure... but it would be really cool if you could push that scan gauge back up into the headliner, and push it again whenever you wanted it to slide down into place. It just sticks out so far and would be pretty trick if it could be hidden.
It is doable. But will have many many small moving parts, which may cause rattle.
 
It is doable. But will have many many small moving parts, which may cause rattle.
Rattle shmattle. I’ve got a quarter million miles and I off road. I’m not afraid of a little rattle. Plus that’s what foam is for. Lmk about that one because I’d buy that.
 
Rattle shmattle. I’ve got a quarter million miles and I off road. I’m not afraid of a little rattle. Plus that’s what foam is for. Lmk about that one because I’d buy that.
I am not planning to do a retractable one. The fitting between those moving parts would keep me from working on other projects.
 
Update on Make 12. @Jczajka @DC470

This is printed with ABS in tan. For a smoother surface, you can sand, apply primer, sand again, and paint.

View attachment 2145871

Steps of assembling.
1: Secure the microphone.
2: Attache the Ethernet cable and slide the Scangauge II in the mount.
3: Snap into the overhead panel.
4: Have the bracket ready with screws.
5: Attach the bracket as shown in picture and tighten the screws.
Note: Don't over tight.
6: This is to show the complete assembly. No wires are visible.

View attachment 2145805

Original plan was to attach the mount to the overhead panel through snap fit. But I don't think it is secure upon inspecting the prototypes. I added a "wishbone" bracket to mate with the overhead console utilizing three existing holes. The wishbone enhances the security of the snap fitting. No rattle at all.

View attachment 2145890
I actually like this version vs mark 1. I have been using the mark 1 for a couple of weeks and I noticed with my seating position I lose about 25% of top screen visibility. I like how it hangs down and would not exclude folks that have upright seat or taller seating positions. The mic is a nice addition too.Any chance you will make these to fit in the mk 1's location?
 
Update on Make 12. @Jczajka @DC470

This is printed with ABS in tan. For a smoother surface, you can sand, apply primer, sand again, and paint.

View attachment 2145871

Steps of assembling.
1: Secure the microphone.
2: Attache the Ethernet cable and slide the Scangauge II in the mount.
3: Snap into the overhead panel.
4: Have the bracket ready with screws.
5: Attach the bracket as shown in picture and tighten the screws.
Note: Don't over tight.
6: This is to show the complete assembly. No wires are visible.

View attachment 2145805

Original plan was to attach the mount to the overhead panel through snap fit. But I don't think it is secure upon inspecting the prototypes. I added a "wishbone" bracket to mate with the overhead console utilizing three existing holes. The wishbone enhances the security of the snap fitting. No rattle at all.

View attachment 2145890
[/QUOTEi

I was just thinking...how much of the review mirror do you lose with his set up?
 
From my point of view, none.
Can I ask how tall you are.
6 feet. I think there was another guy on here that had a similar experience but said it was for his son and the son could view it with no issue.

For me it almost the right angle of viewing. Maybe changing the slope of mark 1 by 5-10 degrees so the scan guage viewing angle clears the front ridge. Honestly, I like the new hang down proto type
 
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6 feet. I think there was another guy on here that had a similar experience but said it was for his son and the son could view it with no issue.

For me it almost the right angle of viewing. Maybe changing the slope of mark 1 by 5-10 degrees so the scan guage viewing angle clears the front ridge. Honestly, I like the new hang down proto type
I will work on that.
 
Harness arrived. It connects to the 120V Outlet (85530-35050-C0) which Make 7 V2 holds.


1575171498978.png
 
@Cleric Duran

Just want to confirm with you that can cannot see the upper 25% of the screen. One possible solution is to use the protrusion configuration. The other one is to push the scangauge a little bit to the front of the vehicle.

View attachment 2146447

Yup that is it! Figure 1 yellow line is what I see. Pushing the scangauge back or bring it down looks like it would work.

Also no worries on the glow in dark material. I found some glow paint or watch lume I could paint into the engraving.
 
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Hey @BenCC

What grit sandpaper do you recommend for finishing the ABS prints before painting?
 
Got my stuff today. Look like solid pieces. Not sure I will be able to get them installed very quickly but they sure look good.
20191202_123558.jpg
 
Does anyone have a part number for the overhead piece w/sunglasses holder? Or is it gonna be a junkyard find?

I have the home link but would prefer to make the switch.

Everything looks great!
 

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