Bearing repack GURUs

[2001LC]

Nice job and write up, one of the better I've seen.

Those new grease caps are so difficult to get on a new hub flange, aren't they!. They do stretch and come off easier with large channel-locks, when the time comes.

I've three suggestions:

1) The TRE nut for that matter all ball joint nuts, do sometimes have difficulty getting a bite. The shaft likes to spin a bit. Generally I just keep pulling on my wrench rather fast, until they bite. Even better is using an air tool set at ~60 PSI to seat, then torque. Then insert the largest cotter key that will possibly fit in hole, tightening the nut additionally if needed until the hole lines up. In setting the cotter key it's best to have it turned so that one leg is bent into the keep, then other leg over the top. This also lines the head of cotter key in the keep of the nut.

2) I like to grease the cone washers. This does three things; prevents corrosion, allows cone washer to move freely and makes removal much easy on next service. Not a big deal just my preference.

 

[2001LC]

3) Snap ring gap. I've yet to see where we'd use the thinner snap ring, as you've done ("G" 1.8mm IIRC). You show in your picture a 0.20mm gauge, which is max gap allowed pre FSM. I also saw in earlier pictures you greased the axle bushing and the axle surface it butts against, which is great. But the grease creates a thin layer that keeps axle from fully extending out to completely reveal gap. This gives a false reading of gap. It's for this reason (especially if the Slee tool used) I use a puller on axle when setting snap ring gap. I saw you had a bolt in the end of axle to pull axle and check gap. But I find that just doesn't do the job at squeezing out the grease, after a full service like this, to get a true gap reading.

This is so easy to check, it only takes 5 minutes. Once you've driven for a while, the grease will settle. With wheel/tires on the ground, to keep front drive shaft axle in neutral position. If AHC equipped, put in L. Pull the grease cap off, then put your bolt back in tip of axle and pull very hard. Then check your gap. Use two thin blades of your feeler gauge. One very thin to easily get behind the snap ring. Then a second to get between that and the hub flange. You need to get the tightest combination of feeler gauges in the gap you can.

My guess is you'll move up to a 2.4mm snap ring ("D"). The less gap the better, it can't be too tight.

Not my finest job, as was in a hurry to shoot short video.

 

[abuck99]

New caps on new flanges can be a booger to get off as well. I haven't developed a good process yet that doesn't mangle the cap using channel locks. Maybe you'll have a good technique for not creating plier marks or denting the cap. I end up replacing caps frequently to keep a good seal and clean look (to say I dont like the channel lock marks or dents on the caps. My OCD.)

 

[2001LC]

See, just more proof I don't have OCD........LOL..................

Just D.O. (Detailed Oriented).

 

[white_lx]

.....I use a puller on axle when setting snap ring gap....

Very smart. I didn't think of that and quickly made this tool (used threaded rods and jam nuts because I didn't have bolts that were long enough).

 

[2001LC]

Very smart. I didn't think of that and quickly made this tool (used threaded rods and jam nuts because I didn't have bolts that were long enough).

View attachment 1588064

I like it!

 

[SlowBuild]

@2001LC thanks you for the tips. I didn’t grease the cone washers because I was worried about greasing the bolt threads. I see in your video you clean the threads before the nut goes on. I’ll do this in future, along with a second dust cover gasket between the knuckle and the brake dust cover.

I also used your suggestion on the snap rings. I backed into my garage with AHC in hi. Then stopped and brought it all the way down to low. Popped my grease caps off, and sure enough my snap rings were loose. The weight of the truck pushed the axles out noticeably but I was able to gain some additional just by inserting a bolt and prying a bit with a hammer. Sure enough, I went up from ‘E’ (2.2mm) and ‘G’ (1.8mm) to a ‘D’ (2.4mm) on both sides, just as you predicted. My gaps are .08mm and .10mm. I will invest in a puller and try again when it arrives. I have driven about 60 miles on the new parts and already i was shaving metal off the loose (I thought they were tight) rings.

I just twisted off the tight grease caps with channel locks. I tried to tape the jaws but couldn’t get any grip. Even so, it didn’t chew them up too badly:

Both sides had metal ‘hairs’ shaved off them from the 60 or so miles since install, not sure if this is normal or just because they were a bit loose. The flanges and drive shaft groove seemed in good condition and I assume they’re of harder steel. I believe the shavings are all from the snap rings:

With the ring off, the flange and drive shaft don’t look damaged:

I just pried a bit with a hammer. It worked some, but next time I’ll use a proper puller:

New rings on (size ‘D’, 2.4mm):

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Would you guys prefer a new set of drive flange caps to be included?

 

[abuck99]

Would you guys prefer a new set of drive flange caps to be included?

Would be a good option.

 

[badlander]

To make the dust caps easy to get off without damage I just grind a shallow bevel around the inside surface of the flange at the outer edge so an old wood chisel blade will fit in the slight gap. A few taps on the chisel with a hammer around the perimiter and it will come loose easily. No metal slivers or bent up caps. I also made a driver to install them easily without having to tap around them with a screwdriver blade, etc. The driver is made from an aluminum fence post cap from home depot. Fits the OD perfectly. Couple of whacks with a mallet, done.

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC thanks you for the tips. I didn’t grease the cone washers because I was worried about greasing the bolt threads. I see in your video you clean the threads before the nut goes on. I’ll do this in future, along with a second dust cover gasket between the knuckle and the brake dust cover.

I also used your suggestion on the snap rings. I backed into my garage with AHC in hi. Then stopped and brought it all the way down to low. Popped my grease caps off, and sure enough my snap rings were loose. The weight of the truck pushed the axles out noticeably but I was able to gain some additional just by inserting a bolt and prying a bit with a hammer. Sure enough, I went up from ‘E’ (2.2mm) and ‘G’ (1.8mm) to a ‘D’ (2.4mm) on both sides, just as you predicted. My gaps are .08mm and .10mm. I will invest in a puller and try again when it arrives. I have driven about 60 miles on the new parts and already i was shaving metal off the loose (I thought they were tight) rings.

I just twisted off the tight grease caps with channel locks. I tried to tape the jaws but couldn’t get any grip. Even so, it didn’t chew them up too badly:

View attachment 1588454

Both sides had metal ‘hairs’ shaved off them from the 60 or so miles since install, not sure if this is normal or just because they were a bit loose. The flanges and drive shaft groove seemed in good condition and I assume they’re of harder steel. I believe the shavings are all from the snap rings:

View attachment 1588453

With the ring off, the flange and drive shaft don’t look damaged:

View attachment 1588461

I just pried a bit with a hammer. It worked some, but next time I’ll use a proper puller:

View attachment 1588457

New rings on (size ‘D’, 2.4mm):

View attachment 1588463

I'll bet the metal shavings are from grease cap, due to removing the grease cap by twisting and grabbing deep into cap as you show

Try removing grease cap with channel locks parallel to axle, with bite out near end of cap. If channel locks bite to far back, it basically grabs matting surface and clamps cap on axle. Rock the cap up and down too walk it off. You can use leather to protect cap, if it's cap not too tight.

The snap ring, hub flange and axle all turn together. So they would not rub off metal. What does happen when gap too wide, is axle moves beyond design limits in and out. Axle then saws on it's own teeth and that of hub flange. Snap ring also pounds on itself, face of hub flange, groove of axle, axle bushing, back side of axle and back side of large bearing.

Not much of harden surface remains after beating this one took by wide gap.

Lowering of AHC then prying hammer with block of wood puller or pulling axle out tight with below method is fine, once grease has settled by driving. I've not found the gap will change much with a clamp puller set up, after grease ob axle bushing settling by driving.

Would you guys prefer a new set of drive flange caps to be included?

Kurt, oftentimes I find grease cap damaged by being chiseled off. Typically this damages inner matting surface, making either out of round or lip no longer gives a flat seal. That said why not have as add-on to bearing kit (Kit with or without grease cap option).

Can I suggest you off set cost and not include snap rings less than 2.2mm even that one is rarely used. If someone was installing axle bushing, new OEM front drive shaft and hub flange then maybe a 2.2mm or smaller may be used. But it would probably take new spindle (knuckle) along with above mentioned new components to get a gap requiring a snap ring as thin as the factory installed 2.2mm or smaller. I use 2.4mm the most and I'm seeing more 2.6mm snap rings needed as the series 100 fleet is aging. Only once have I used a 2.8mm. I've never actually used a 2.2mm, even with new front drive shafts (axle) and hub flange installs. I dare say it would be cost effective to ship with the 2.4 & 2.6mm, unless some orders a axle bushing. Then in the rare cases, you could just mail in a small (heavy) letter the rarely used sizes.

Can I also suggestion you change suppliers for the hub flange gasket. The holes on the blueish one I find are cut just a bite out of alignment or too small, I find they tear about 1/2 the time.

I don't know if you offer other comb kits. But if you'd like my recommendation of different wheel bearing service & knuckle kits, I'll be happy to share my preferences here or in PM. Just ask!

The axle bushing takes most of the wear. This has greatest effect on snap ring gap, where hub flange and/or axle groove are in good condition. If gap exceeds 0.20mm with the thickest (2.8mm) snap ring, then bushing must be replaced.

 

[2001LC]

BTW: Here's an example of a hub flange which teeth have been sawed/worn by excessive snap ring gap combined with loose wheel bearings. As you can see this one is ready to give way. When it does most think they lost the front differential to major damage.

Here is new OEM for comparison.

 

[abuck99]

Try removing grease with channel locks parallel to axle, with bite out near end of cap. If channel locks bite to far back, it basically grabs matting surface and clamps cap on axle. Rock the cap up and down too walk it off. You can use leather to protect cap, if it's cap not too tight.

Great Tip- I’ll try that next time.

Good point Paul, Ive also found the green type hub flange gaskets are slightly off where they settle over the centering pins.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Would be a good option.

Cool, I'll look into the pricing. We stock both the OE and a high quality aftermarket cap. If we included the caps with no bump in the current price (totally hypothetical to be upfront) would anyone have heartache getting basically a free aftermarket cap?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Kurt, oftentimes I find grease cap damaged by being chiseled off. Typically this damages inner matting surface, making either out of round or lip no longer gives a flat seal. That said why not have as add-on to bearing kit (Kit with or without grease cap option).

Can I suggest you off set cost and not include snap rings less than 2.2mm even that one is rarely used. If someone was installing axle bushing, new OEM front drive shaft and hub flange then maybe a 2.2mm or smaller may be used. But it would probably take new spindle (knuckle) along with above mentioned new components to get a gap requiring a snap ring as thin as the factory installed 2.2mm or smaller. I use 2.4mm the most and I'm seeing more 2.6mm snap rings needed as the series 100 fleet is aging. Only once have I used a 2.8mm. I've never actually used a 2.2mm, even with new front drive shafts (axle) and hub flange installs. I dare say it would be cost effective to ship with the 2.4 & 2.6mm, unless some orders a axle bushing. Then in the rare cases, you could just mail in a small (heavy) letter the rarely used sizes.

Can I also suggestion you change suppliers for the hub flange gasket. The holes on the blueish one I find are cut just a bite out of alignment or too small, I find they tear about 1/2 the time.

I don't know if you offer other comb kits. But if you'd like my recommendation of different wheel bearing service & knuckle kits, I'll be happy to share my preferences here or in PM. Just ask!

Fantastic suggestions and thoughts. I'd love to take this up back channel and get your thoughts. Shoot me a PM and let me know what you're thinking.

 

[SlowBuild]

Cool, I'll look into the pricing. We stock both the OE and a high quality aftermarket cap. If we included the caps with no bump in the current price (totally hypothetical to be upfront) would anyone have heartache getting basically a free aftermarket cap?

I’d surely have no complaints. My preference would be to replace the cap every time. I think Toyota calls it non-reusable, but obviously most just keep a single cap going for years. If I forget to order one then I’ll pop the old one back on with no worries but if I have one on hand, I’ll use it.

FYI my green hub flange gasket also tore getting it on but I had an extra black one on hand so it wasn’t an issue.

 

[Jimthom]

I just finished replacing bearings and races on my 06.

I want to thank all the posters on MUD on all the threads on the bearing job. Your work is incredible and extremely invaluable.

I think I read them all and followed the advice.

I had to tighten the adjusting nut to the 35 -40 ft-lb range, and did achieve a constant 12 – 15 lbs pre-load measurement. It remained at 12 – 15 lbs after tightening the locking nut to 47 ft-lbs. So I feel happy with this.

The wheels were on the loose side prior to my work. One side was just hand tight and the other was barely wrench tight. I had scratches on the claw washer and some scoring and small ridges on the spindle, where the shaft meets the main part of the knuckle, which I smoothed out with emery paper.

There was no abnormal wear on the drive flange teeth. I used thickness C snap rings, which are 2.4 mm, and gave me a tight fit on one side and about 0.15 mm gap on the other.

I have about 150,000 mi and the last 25,000 has been with 35 inch tires with Spidertrax spacers and lots of hard off road driving.I now feel ready for lots more.

I had been noticing a hard to describe vagueness or looseness in the steering. The steering is now noticeably better, there is less tendency to follow undulations in the crown and slope of the road.

I used Cruiser Outfitters parts kits and the Slee spindle grease tool. I want to thank the people at Slee for some technical advice and to especially thank Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for his amazing response on a rush order for a snap ring.

Happy New Year to everyone on the Forum.

My resolutions are to keep my bearings tight, my ball joints greased and my drive shaft well-lubricated.



Cheers.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Glad to hear it worked out and came together nicely Jim

 

[Jimthom]

You are welcome , Kurt. Thank you.

A correction. C snap rings are 2.6 mm. D rings are 2.4 mm.
I used C, 2.6mm.

 

[chudly]

Thank you all for your advice and discussion on this thread, it was very helpful to me as it’s my first time doing any work on my cruiser.

I got the kit from @cruiseroutfit :
inner grease seal
inner bearing & race
outer bearing & race
claw washer
lock washer
flange gasket
Also got the snap ring kit
(And a spring gauge and a 54mm socket)

And more new Toyota parts:
cotter pins
drive shaft
hub flange
dust cover gasket
adjusting nut
lock nuts
cone washers
grease caps

I removed, cleaned, overhauled existing knuckle w/ spindle bearing and bushing, steering knuckle arm, dust cover, and all reused hardware.

I cleaned and treated lower arm and knuckle and steering knuckle arm with POR15 regimen, mostly for aesthetics.

Some thoughts:

- I disconnected ABS sensor wires in engine bay and unscrewed and disconnected all the way down. The ps sensor had already been torn by the dealer and I didn’t want to risk destroying them thryong to get them out of the knuckles.

- I got the Slee spindle greasing tool but didn’t use it, I just slobbered grease all over and through the spindle bearings with my fingers while it was all apart.

- I followed @2001LC advice and greased all bare metal and all contacting parts.

- the bolt ends of my tie rod ends we’re crushed so badly (from an arm puller I suppose) that the factory cotter pins would not fit through the hole, I had to downsize. Same problem with lower arm connection but not as bad.

- I had to extra clean, recut, and grease threads of ps tre connection in order to get the nut to spin on without turning the ball, this took a long time and many tries. Because of this I had to make my best guess on the torque.

- I put lock nut and adjusting nut on with flat side in and big side out as noted by @2001LC (he observed original ones from the factory this way).

- I used pink Mobil1 synthetic everywhere.

- freezing the races and heating the hub did not help my install. I may not have had a hot enough lamp for the hub. Instead I used the old race for the outer and a drift for the inner. A hardwood dowel would have been better because I had to be real careful to keep the brass bits from the drift out of the hub.

- I wish I had ordered an extra set of dust cover gaskets to put between the knuckle and dust cover as per @2001LC suggestion. I will do this next time. Instead I cleaned it up real good and greased it. My knuckles were pretty ugly in here.

- With all new parts my snap ring gap ended up to be 2.2mm on left and 1.8mm on right. Tight fit with absolutely no tolerance on either. Not sure why they’re different.

- I used a wooden mallet to fit the new grease caps to the new greased drive shaft ends.

Finally, my process for preload was this (mostly borrowed from @abuck99 ):

1. Tighten adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs
2. Spin hub in drive direction a few times
3. Retorque to 43 ft-lbs
4. Repeat until wrench clicks immediately a couple times in a row
*I THINK STEP 4 IS IMPORTANT*
5. Loosen adjusting nut until finger tight
6. Tighten adjusting nut to 25 ft-lbs
7. Check perpendicular preload tension on spring gauge
8. Spin hub a few times in direction of forward travel and check tension again
9. Repeat until I get a few consistent readings in a row
10. It’s low, so add a couple more ft-lbs to adjusting nut
11. Recheck spring gauge tension
12. Repeat until spring reads 9.5 lbf then continue (repeat) but proceed with more caution. Add torque to nut in smaller increments and once torqued, spin hub a few times and retorque until the wrench gives an immediate click. *AGAIN, I THINK THAT PART IS IMPORTANT*
13. I didn’t think it was right to exceed the original 43 ft-lb seating torque on the adjusting nut so I stopped there on the driver side. The spring gauge was reading 12 lbf. Kurt recommends heading for the top of the preload range (9.5 - 15.0 lbf) with new bearings and parts, but this was as close as I felt comfortable going. On the passenger side I got to 13 lbf preload with only 37 ft-lbs on the nut. I stopped there, knowing it would tighten once the lock it was on.
14. Slide on lock washer but don’t bend it yet
15. Install lock but and torque to 47 ft-lb.
16. Spin hub a few times and retorque
17. Repeat until consistent tight torque
18. Spin hub a few more times
19. Recheck preload
20. Repeat (spin and check spring tension) until reading is consistent. This final reading gave me a 14lbf preload on both sides. I was very happy with this.
21. Bend lockwasher tabs

I did the driver side first then repeated it after doing the passenger side with better results (those posted above). I didn’t do steps 4 and 12 the first time. I think that caused my torque readings to be off (nut was not actually getting as tight as my wrench thought it was) so I ended up with higher adjusting nut torques relative to the consequent preload. Extra spins and more care seating the nut each time I retorque it seemed to get me better results.

The most difficult parts of this process for me were getting my tie rod ends out and back in because the ball joints and taper spun pretty freely but the threaded end was corroded and a tight fit with the nut.

I hope this post helps someone else in future, THANK YOU again to all who posted before me.

View attachment 1587540

View attachment 1587541

]

i did not do my bearings, I only changed the axle.

I did not grease anything even close to this amount. I only greased the inside of the hub flange basically and left whatever grease was in there from the old axle.

do I need to go back in from the backside and put some grease in there?