Armor Build Up (7 Viewers)

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Going to start this thread as a TECH HELP for armor. I get many questions on how to build bumpers, what materials I use, where to get things, etc...

First off, I always try to answer you guys questions to the best of my ability. No, I'm not going to give you every dimension and measurement. I sell this armor (bumpers, roof racks, sliders, gutter mounts, etc...) and sell quite a few of the components I use to build this armor with. (SEE SIGNATURE LINE BELOW FOR THAT LINK) or https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bumpers-for-sale.812458/

I am a supporting vendor here and this will help you guys out and me as well to promote my products. You can post questions here and I will answer them based on how I build my products. Some people may think this is crazy to give away my "recipes" as I like to call them, but if someone wants to try and build their own, more power to ya.

I have a local shop brake my shells for the most part. I use every method available to cut and bend my metal. Flame cut, hand-held plasma, cut-off wheels, etc.. I have developed my own hole templates for the frame and use a mag-drill to cut these holes. I built my own 42" press brake for smaller bends like wings and one-off metal brakes.

Welding is done with a Miller 350XMT GMAW (MIG) process. I use .035" (ER70s-6) wire for the most part on all my bumpers and sliders. Roof racks I drop to .030" (ER70s-6) I use 75/25 Argon/CO2 shielding gas.

I work from my house shop, approx 1800 sq ft.. (NOT BIG ENOUGH SOME DAYS!)

I recently started another rear bumper build, so lets start there..

Shell- 3/16 A-36 steel
Frame mounts- 1/2" plate
Receiver tube- 2 5/16 . .233" square
Crossmember 2" x .250" square
Shackle mounts 1 3/8" x .120" DOM

I'll post the other materials as these builds progress....

The rear OEM factory crossmember is removed and I build to the inside of the frame rails.

A few pics to get going..

J

MORE TO COME!

 

[drillduty]

Subscribed!

 

[OGBeno]

So are you receiving request for your trade secrets?



Ironically, all I do most of my day is give away my trade secrets for people to get their parts elsewhere. it is what it is.

That said, I very much enjoy reading talented fabricators discuss their work and methods.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

So are you receiving request for your trade secrets?



Ironically, all I do most of my day is give away my trade secrets for people to get their parts elsewhere. it is what it is.

That said, I very much enjoy reading talented fabricators discuss their work and methods.

Depends on if I like 'em or not.... What you wanna know O?

J

 

[OGBeno]

I'm cool. I don't need to know anything really. I prefer supporting folks like yourself, Dave Gore, etc., when I am ready for custom fab stuff.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I'm cool. I don't need to know anything really. I prefer supporting folks like yourself, Dave Gore, etc., when I am ready for custom fab stuff.

Well I know Dave would agree with me, we appreciate it.

J

 

[dbleon]

SWEEEET!

Do you think it might be a good idea to triangulate the square tube from the crossmember to the hitch tube? Like a triangle plate on top tying both pieces together?? Seems many hitch companies build theirs this way, although most aftermarket hitches dont incorporate into a bumper shell either... but i wonder the dynamics under high load - engineering wise.

like this https://www.google.com/search?q=hit...den.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D41905.0;706;366

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

SWEEEET!

Do you think it might be a good idea to triangulate the square tube from the crossmember to the hitch tube? Like a triangle plate on top tying both pieces together?? Seems many hitch companies build theirs this way, although most aftermarket hitches dont incorporate into a bumper shell either... but i wonder the dynamics under high load - engineering wise.

like this https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch triangulation&client=ubuntu&hs=Sgx&channel=fs&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=8zI_VPKbEuKrigKb3IHwBw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=673#channel=fs&tbm=isch&q=hitch class 3&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=wiU5ByyQyBgeqM%3A;sJUp3qipqySbxM;http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F~eaglewagon%2F%2FClass-3-Hitch.jpg;http%3A%2F%2Fforums.amceaglesden.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D41905.0;706;366

D, I've built similar to this for Dodge, Chevy, Ford 1-ton trucks that pulled up to 12k loads daily without any issues. Like you said it is tied in through the shell which strengths the receiver even more and I feel it is strong enough to handle the rated tow capacity for our rigs.

Someone could always add extra support if they wished.

J

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Cheers to you my friend for doing this, not many do.

Most importnatly IMO, is the metal fusion technique that's used. That will make or break any bumper, regardless of material selection. What output amperage are you running at when you build these bumpers?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Cheers to you my friend for doing this, not many do.

Most importnatly IMO, is the metal fusion technique that's used. That will make or break any bumper, regardless of material selection. What output amperage are you running at when you build these bumpers?

Right you are Johnny, while GMAW is the easiest welding process for most to grasp, it is also the most deceptive. What looks great is sometimes the weakest. Attention to metal thickness and settings are very important.

I use a variety of Volt/Wire speed combos.. I set up for the thickest metal. Then I use what I call a "LICK" technique. Since the thicker metal is getting the heat it is easy to drop down and lick the thinner to fuse it. Don't stay around too long or you will undercut or burn through in some cases.

3/16" (pending position) 18.5-19.5 V
1/4" (same ^) 20-22V
1/2" (same ^) 23V on up

J

 

[60Works]

By having the reciever tube welded both to the cross member and to the bumper shell, it greatly reduces the bending moment trying to split the top weld of the tube/crossmember. The full circumference weld around the tube to the shell, instead of just top and bottom, also adds strength. On my Class V Drawtite I was always worried about stress fractures at the ends of the crossmember rather than at the reinforced reciever. When I pulled it off of Jugg I had it checked for cracks and, even after the extreme overloading I subjected it to and 20 years of rust, it cleaned up just fine.

All that to say, even though I'm not a PE, I think your design far excedes the tow rating of both the 60 and 80 Series Land Cruisers.

What you are missing is a convenient, central location to hook on trace chains. Most trailers' chains probably aren't long enough to cross and reach clear to the shackle mounts. Then again, many trailer probably have both chain originating from the same central point on the tongue.

I might suggest a provision hole for trailer lighting, slightly recessed so it doesn't constantly get scraped off on the trail. And maybe similar holes for Rigid Lighting, recessed trail lights.

These bumpers look awesome BTW.

 

[Jokenring]

I use a variety of Volt/Wire speed combos.. I set up for the thickest metal. Then I use what I call a "LICK" technique. Since the thicker metal is getting the heat it is easy to drop down and lick the thinner to fuse it. Don't stay around too long or you will undercut or burn through in some cases.

That's how I do it

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

By having the reciever tube welded both to the cross member and to the bumper shell, it greatly reduces the bending moment trying to split the top weld of the tube/crossmember. The full circumference weld around the tube to the shell, instead of just top and bottom, also adds strength. On my Class V Drawtite I was always worried about stress fractures at the ends of the crossmember rather than at the reinforced reciever. When I pulled it off of Jugg I had it checked for cracks and, even after the extreme overloading I subjected it to and 20 years of rust, it cleaned up just fine.

All that to say, even though I'm not a PE, I think your design far excedes the tow rating of both the 60 and 80 Series Land Cruisers.

What you are missing is a convenient, central location to hook on trace chains. Most trailers' chains probably aren't long enough to cross and reach clear to the shackle mounts. Then again, many trailer probably have both chain originating from the same central point on the tongue.

I might suggest a provision hole for trailer lighting, slightly recessed so it doesn't constantly get scraped off on the trail. And maybe similar holes for Rigid Lighting, recessed trail lights.

These bumpers look awesome BTW.

G, First off, I want to say that your builds are works of art and I am just enamored with your rig.

I weld 1/2" cold roll bar stock inside the shell/to the receiver tube for the tow chains. Just haven't gotten that far on this build yet. Maybe tomorrow or Monday.

The trailer plug is a question I would like feedback on from all.. I want to know how many of you guys run trailer brakes and brake controllers vs. the simple 4 way flat plug. Maybe I should jsy supply a combo plug with these. I don't want to put the plug into the exterior of the shell. I'd rather weld a bracket off the receiver tube (inside) for a 7 way or 4 way plug. Doing this will eliminate any scraping during playing time and routine pulls.

As the company name says Trail-Tailor.. I will fab anything within reason and the recessed lights would be quite easy, whether for spot, flood or back-ups. I just need the light itself or the exact dimensions to cut for future install.

Jason

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

That's how I do it

ATTA KID!

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Got the spindles and the ends tied up today. Apologize in advance fot the welds.. Was in a hurry trying to get contractors, delivery and freight carriers out of my shop today...

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Rough grinded and need to put a 24 and 36 grit flex disk on the edges to smooth them out......

I use a hard disc, then a tiger/zip disc and then a flex disc until I'm happy with the edge. A hard disc alone leaves too aggresive of a cut and a tiger disc will leave serious waves in the metal. The flex disc straightens everything out without warping and heating the base metal too much...

J

 

[John McVicker]

Subscribed.

Great looking stuff. Thanks for doing this.

John

 

[TallCanDan]

...I use a hard disc, then a tiger/zip disc and then a flex disc until I'm happy with the edge. A hard disc alone leaves too aggresive of a cut and a tiger disc will leave serious waves in the metal. The flex disc straightens everything out without warping and heating the base metal too much...

J

J can I get a visual on these discs? Are they all electric grinder or air tool attachments?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Subscribed.

Great looking stuff. Thanks for doing this.

John

My pleasure John, thanks.

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

J can I get a visual on these discs? Are they all electric grinder or air tool attachments?

I'll post up pics later for you Danny.

Jason