Amateur Overlander

[greentruck]

I do in fact have a laser temp gauge. How uneven are we talking? A few degrees, greater than 10, greater than 20?

Likely in excess 20, but I used my hand with the engine off when I did mine way back when. It was a notice

I do in fact have a laser temp gauge. How uneven are we talking? A few degrees, greater than 10, greater than 20?

Likely well in excess of 10 degrees. I did mine before I had a gauge with the engine off by hand. There was an easy to sense difference with the cold spots that way.

 

[texdoc77]

Likely in excess 20, but I used my hand with the engine off when I did mine way back when. It was a notice

Likely well in excess of 10 degrees. I did mine before I had a gauge with the engine off by hand. There was an easy to sense difference with the cold spots that way.

Thank you, so somewhere in excess of 10 - 20 degrees, I appreciate the feedback. Work has been very busy this week so going to put the flush in this weekend and they check the radiator. If all good will change out some hoses and go from there.

 

[texdoc77]

I want to revisit a discussion from earlier in the thread. I had asked for some advice on how extensive to get into engine preventive maintenance. Reliability is key, hence going with a Toyota. In my overlanding adventures I might be far from civilization for days at a time (maybe not, but maybe). One piece of advice was to pull the engine, rebuild the head and all that entails etc. Others advised a less invasive approach associated with a moderate base lining and driving the truck. In an effort to gain more information to make the best decision I can I decided to do a head gasket leak test and compression test on the cylinders.

I used the Maddox Combustion Leak kit with the associated (but not included fluid). Here are the results:

As many of you know if the fluid stays blue after keeping the bulb on the radiator and pulling gasses through for at least a minute, then no combustion gasses are coming through the engine, indicating the head gasket is good. I ran it for about 5 minutes and did not see any color change in the fluid, and thus I feel good about the HG.

Next I pulled the spark plugs and tested compression on each cylinder with the following results:

#1 - 210
#2 - 212
#3 - 215
#4 - 200
#5 - 203
#6 - 207

I warmed up the engine, pulled all the plugs and tested each cylinder with throttle pushed down all the way and for the same amount of time. The readings are all close together, but a little high. Assuming the readings are accurate is this cause for concern?

 

[fjbj40]

Plug color looks very good.
Gaps look excessive.

Compression numbers look good also. If you think they are high the contributor to that is oil on the walls. No worries there unless she’s blowing blue.

With the age of these rigs it’s more than likely valve seals.

Baseline the s*** out of it imop.

That’s what I did when I bought mine with 280,000 miles on it and 15,000 miles later it’s still working fantastic

You can look at my thread “it has begun again” and see the process I did.

Builds - 1993 80, BUILD, another "it has begun" for fjbj40!

Finally started the baseline process. Winter is here and all the ice and salt requires she not go outside! She has 285,000 miles on her and I bought her last March in Stockton Cali. Yesterday I stripped down the front axle. I have the knuckle kit but it turns out both birds require replacement...

forum.ih8mud.com

Cheers

 

[texdoc77]

Plug color looks very good.
Gaps look excessive.

Compression numbers look good also. If you think they are high the contributor to that is oil on the walls. No worries there unless she’s blowing blue.

With the age of these rigs it’s more than likely valve seals.

Baseline the s*** out of it imop.

That’s what I did when I bought mine with 280,000 miles on it and 15,000 miles later it’s still working fantastic

You can look at my thread “it has begun again” and see the process I did.

Builds - 1993 80, BUILD, another "it has begun" for fjbj40!

Finally started the baseline process. Winter is here and all the ice and salt requires she not go outside! She has 285,000 miles on her and I bought her last March in Stockton Cali. Yesterday I stripped down the front axle. I have the knuckle kit but it turns out both birds require replacement...

forum.ih8mud.com

Cheers

Thank you, currently putting it back together, needed a minor amount of disassembly to get at all the plugs and went ahead with fresh NGK plugs since I had them out.

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

Baseline well and run it!

 

[texdoc77]

OK so couple updates, truck running well, but I am going to continue on my baselining. I have also pulled my seats to take to get them reupholstered so I will send some before and after pix once they are done. I finished out fluids last week, but still need to grease knucles and drive shaft. That said I am putting together an order on partsouq and wits end for some items. I will be focusing on the cooling/heating system first as that will line up with me putting radiator flush in the system. I have done multiple searches and want to try and replace as much as I can with the coolant out of the system. At any rate I can imagine this has been covered but I simply cannot find this specific question answered. I do not see a definitive list of ALL things to change after draining coolant so I wanted to run some things by this great community. here is what I plan to do:
1. Replace all hoses, large and small, to include new clamps as well
2. Replace all formed heater hoses to include PHH and new clamps as well. Will also get some straight gates green stripe in 1/2" ID and 5/8" ID for straight line
3. I saw someone mention FHH I do not know what that means but am assuming that is floor heater hoses? so there are the ones under the frame I will change near the cats
4. thermostat with o-ring gasket and I saw where people change out the thermostat guide gasket
5. Replace water pump and water pump gasket (or sealer, not sure which way on they toyota yet I have not looked at FSM for this)

I have some other vent hoses and stuff but as far as things to change while coolant is out is there anything I am missing? ALSO while I am at it with some of the aforementioned items is there anything that will be close or easier to change while I am there. I realize this can be a rabbit hole and don't mind going back in and changing some stuff here and there but wanted to see what people had to say. Thanks all!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Heater control valve. Behind the engine head, high on the fire wall.
They go brittle and can break. Worth taking a look at it and consider changing it while you're in there. I don't think they are expensive.

The water lines to/from the throttle body get skipped coz they are difficult to get to, but i'd change them too

 

[texdoc77]

Heater control valve. Behind the engine head, high on the fire wall.
They go brittle and can break. Worth taking a look at it and consider changing it while you're in there. I don't think they are expensive.

The water lines to/from the throttle body get skipped coz they are difficult to get to, but i'd change them too

Awesome, thank you, updated list:

1. Replace 3 large radiator hoses with clamps
2. Replace 4 small throttle body hoses with clamps
3. Replace all formed heater hoses to include PHH and new clamps as well. Will also get some straight gates green stripe in 1/2" ID and 5/8" ID for straight hoses with clamps, ALSO replace heater control valve
4. I saw someone mention FHH I do not know what that means but am assuming that is floor heater hoses? so there are the ones under the frame I will change near the cats
5. thermostat with o-ring gasket and I saw where people change out the thermostat guide gasket
6. Replace water pump and water pump gasket

 

[texdoc77]

Allright got all ready to make some purchases off partsouq and wits end, but for some reason there was no option to add payment info on WE website. A little puzzled I looked for contact info, but ultimately came back here only to find threads on the current WE saga. I am glad I was not able to make the purchase, but curious if some of the aftermarket items like the 15% increased idler are available elsewhere.

 

[texdoc77]

Update:

Been absent a little bit. Currently all seats are getting reupholstered and I purchased new carpet that I will be putting in. this has hit a snag as my driver seat switch got banged up a bit so sorting that out. Hopefully I can get it all sorted soon and back to baselining!

 

[texdoc77]

OK, over the weekend I was able to install the new seat switch. I also installed a new X2 battery 27F which fit perfectly as it should. Now the seat works again. I was able to raise the seat back and also elevate the seat so the old cover can come off and the new cover can be installed. I dropped it off over at the upholsterer and he feels it can be done by Friday, we shall see, pix to follow!

 

[texdoc77]

Made some progress. I received the TLC back from the upholsterer. He recovered all the seats and installed the carpet. I do not have any pix but will add them soon. I also was able to get some other work done including:

replaced all large radiator hoses
replaced easily accessible heater and bypass hoses
replaced thermostat

My next order of business will be (in no particular order) replace ignition wires, replace spark plug gaskets, replace valve cover gasket, replace PCV hose/valve/grommet, replace firewall heater hoses, replace PHH and replace water pump. I have not decided yet whether I will replace the fan clutch. I am considering going with the blue hub from Redline and I know there is much discussion. I also need to do a coolant service job, as simply replacing the coolant led to still milky brown coolant.

After all that and hopefully I can get those things done this week/weekend it will be heading off to my diff guy to instal 4.88 front and rear and ARB lockers front and rear. He is also installing a viair holding tank along with my onboard compressor for air up and air tools and of course the lockers.

Hopefully I can get out and take some pix this afternoon, I know some are interested in what the carpet looks like installed. spoiler alert, it looks like carpet.

 

[texdoc77]

I was able to spend some time on the TLC on Saturday before it got cold. Was able to remove the valve cover and get the spark plug gaskets replaced. Also cleaned up the top of the valve cover a little. Got the heater hoses removed and also the PHH removed. Was able to with the valve cover off get both bolts the pipe the PHH is attached to removed so it came out in one piece. Have some hoses coming, but I am considering bypassing the rear heater.

 

[texdoc77]

More PM, but going slowly. Got my rear heater delete kit installed replaced all plug wires, new distributor cap, new rotor and gasket. replaced o-ring seal on distributor. When removing the crank pulley bolt I snapped the small plastic nub for water bypass hose #3 so a new radiator is coming my way (interestingly it was half the price on toyotapartsdeal vs partsouq, not sure why). Also in all my ordering I had failed to order a new front crankshaft main seal, so that is also coming. Removing the crank pulley also created another partsouq order as the crank pulley is showing some wear so I ordered a new one there as well. Getting the bolt out was very easy despite what I had read. It should be noted I did have the crank pulley tool that can be purchased from @CPACruiser (thanks for the quick ship!) along with a 3/4" 600ft/lb torque wrench and 40" long 3/4" breaker bar. So about $350 later it was easy. That said the torque wrench and breaker bar will be used again and my son also has a TLC so he will get use out of all of this as well. I am waiting on my parts (isn't that always the case) then should be able to get the new radiator installed along with the new main seal, water pump, oil pump gasket, oil sensor gasket and if I am able to get a new alternator it will go on then. I do have a new fan clutch from landtank that will also be installed, then everything back together and hopefully then I can get the interior back together after the carpet install.

(this pic shows the semicircular rings installed with new FIPG)

(this pic shows the new hoses for the rear heater delete kit)


AND THEN I can focus on replacing differentials and adding lockers which I have already bought but need to get over to my guy to get installed. Would also love to be able to purchase my suspension prior to that and get it all done in one fell swoop. Was hoping to have it ready for our spring break trip, but that is a month away at this point and I do not see that as a possibility right now.

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

Roundup is in a month!

 

[Broski]

Nice work, your rally getting after it.
Don’t be surprised if Toyotapartsdeal cancels you order.

 

[texdoc77]

Nice work, your rally getting after it.
Don’t be surprised if Toyotapartsdeal cancels you order.

My wife bought me the TLC after an overlanding adventure in the San Juan Mountains in the Samurai. She did this because she did not want to leave the kids behind again. I mean I didn't either, but momma bears ammiright? It is my job to make sure this thing is in running order when we are miles away from towns. Or at least that I can fix whatever is wrong. I figure getting elbows deep into the front end is prevention and training. Peace of mind on both ends. I did not grow up reading FSM's but I firmly believe that no one's coming to save us, so it is up to me. I know that sounds a little rah rah, but I do also enjoy wrenching. Every Monday morning I'm last minute trying to get all the grease out of my fingernails because as a pediatrician I don't want angry mommas yelling at me for touching their little ones with grimy hands, LOL!

Fortunately my TPD order arrives tomorrow, I have not had any experience with them cancelling anything so far.

 

[texdoc77]

Roundup is in a month!

Ain't gonna make it, not this year.

 

[texdoc77]

I was able to make some good progress this evening, but the rest of the weekend might be rained out. I was able to replace the front main seal and new crankshaft pulley. got the oil pump cover off without stripping those JIS bolts and replaced the oil pump cover gasket. Removed the old radiator, replaced the water pump. Got the timing chain and rotor for the distributor lined up to spec (I mean you never really know until you go to crank it but I took some pix and if anyone sees anything off please let me know). New distributor o-ring in place with new distributor cap and rotor. New plug wires in place and valve cover replaced with screws tightened down to about 15 inch pounds. New radiator set in place and on the last screw it fell into oblivion. Searched for about 15 minutes in the engine bay and on the ground, but could not find it so I called it a night. Pretty good progress for about 4 hours of work.

Oil pump with cover off, you can new new main seal in the background. Wasn't sure about placement and asked if it looked good and got feedback it did indeed appear in place.

Marks on the back of the gears denoting I am at TDC, pretty sure.

Brand new crank pulley. Bolt in place and torqued to 304ft/lbs

Water pump in place, just begging for belts and fan clutch.

Rotor pointing to #1, or where it will be once the cap is placed back on.