- Thread starter
- #21
I mean I get we all love our TLC's but is there a specific issue with them that makes it a specialized procedure?
Amateur Overlander
- Thread starter texdoc77
- Start date
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I had a windshield replaced a few years ago and it developed a leak, after returning to the glass shop they tried sealing the windshield and it still leaked. I brought the printout from the FSM and they were cool to review and install per the FSM, didn't have a leak after that. There have been several others that have water intrusion issues after a new windshield the install. Honestly, I am not sure how following the FSM makes a difference but it seems to prevent issues. I definitely approach the conversation from a non-judgmental point and have good results. I did the same thing not 6 months ago when I replaced my windshield but it was an easier conversation since it was the same glass shop.
Yeah, it's a specialized procedure and I'd put money on it that most windshields replaced in 80s leak unless the installer takes a lot of care with the install.
There have been many accounts of leaking windshields after installation on the forum. Some folks have had to have windshields reinstalled multiple times to stop leaking. The risk of damage is pretty high if you leave a windshield leaking so you don't want to just live with it but the hassle to get it right can be big which is why it's mentioned here, to hopefully help others avoid this problem.
The issue is that installers assume they can install an 80 windshield the way that they are used to doing on most similarly shaped gaskets but that approach will typically lead to leaking. Even when you show the installer the FSM method and talk it through it seems to be a roll of the dice that they will get sufficient sealant on both sides of the seal and many "properly installed" windshields will still leak. It probably sounds crazy that so many folks have issues but after you've been around here for a while I'm sure you'll see plenty of accounts of leaking windshields on 80s and the repair sagas that follow.
On my 80 when I got a new windshield installed I showed them the FSM printout and talked it through with both the owner and installer. Once they got to work there wasn't much more that I could do but I did watch and see them put sealant on both sides of the gasket. They tried to do it right but were too light on the sealant in multiple spots and the windshield leaked as soon as I got it home and tested it. I was able to get a tube of the appropriate 3m sealant, heat it up, and then add it in all spots where they hadn't put enough in. I had to inject on both the glass and body side of the seal in multiple spots and it was tricky but the fix worked well and has been dry for a year or two since. It likely helped that I applied the extra sealant within a few days of the initial install so it was still clean. I also injected enough sealant to completely fill any voids I found (I pried and poked pretty aggressively to find any non sealed sections) and then just dealt with the excess/squeeze out which cleaned up pretty easily with tons of paper towels and denatured alcohol.
I think most installers are pretty focused on how quickly they can complete an install and even if they hit both sides of the gasket they don't get enough sealant consistently on all sections. Speed makes sense for a lot of reasons as it keeps the sealant fresh until it's in place and of course helps the shop make more $$. Another reason to go light on the application is you don't waste sealant and you don't spend nearly as much time cleaning off the excess which can be a big part of an install job. Further, if that excess gets on certain parts of the automobile it could be really hard to remove it, etc.
Your best bet is to find an installer that has successfully done multiple of these and knows how to do it. If you can't find one of those installers you get to roll the dice!
There have been many accounts of leaking windshields after installation on the forum. Some folks have had to have windshields reinstalled multiple times to stop leaking. The risk of damage is pretty high if you leave a windshield leaking so you don't want to just live with it but the hassle to get it right can be big which is why it's mentioned here, to hopefully help others avoid this problem.
The issue is that installers assume they can install an 80 windshield the way that they are used to doing on most similarly shaped gaskets but that approach will typically lead to leaking. Even when you show the installer the FSM method and talk it through it seems to be a roll of the dice that they will get sufficient sealant on both sides of the seal and many "properly installed" windshields will still leak. It probably sounds crazy that so many folks have issues but after you've been around here for a while I'm sure you'll see plenty of accounts of leaking windshields on 80s and the repair sagas that follow.
On my 80 when I got a new windshield installed I showed them the FSM printout and talked it through with both the owner and installer. Once they got to work there wasn't much more that I could do but I did watch and see them put sealant on both sides of the gasket. They tried to do it right but were too light on the sealant in multiple spots and the windshield leaked as soon as I got it home and tested it. I was able to get a tube of the appropriate 3m sealant, heat it up, and then add it in all spots where they hadn't put enough in. I had to inject on both the glass and body side of the seal in multiple spots and it was tricky but the fix worked well and has been dry for a year or two since. It likely helped that I applied the extra sealant within a few days of the initial install so it was still clean. I also injected enough sealant to completely fill any voids I found (I pried and poked pretty aggressively to find any non sealed sections) and then just dealt with the excess/squeeze out which cleaned up pretty easily with tons of paper towels and denatured alcohol.
I think most installers are pretty focused on how quickly they can complete an install and even if they hit both sides of the gasket they don't get enough sealant consistently on all sections. Speed makes sense for a lot of reasons as it keeps the sealant fresh until it's in place and of course helps the shop make more $$. Another reason to go light on the application is you don't waste sealant and you don't spend nearly as much time cleaning off the excess which can be a big part of an install job. Further, if that excess gets on certain parts of the automobile it could be really hard to remove it, etc.
Your best bet is to find an installer that has successfully done multiple of these and knows how to do it. If you can't find one of those installers you get to roll the dice!
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Yes. Read all the threads with all the shops that screw up this process because they don't follow the FSM. These windshields are NOT installed like the windshields of today. They are more like a combo of the of old cars and the new cars.
Only use a Toyota gasket.
Sealant inside and outside the seal.
If not, it WILL leak and rust out you window frame as well as your floor boards.
Search on here for windshield threads. it's a big deal.
I'm in the process of trying to find an installer in my area to do this the right way. I've already had one company tell me no.
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Yep, installs on most cars built in the last couple of decades can be done quickly with a fairly standard procedure. The way the 80 series windshield is installed is old school and somewhat more labor intensive. I used to work in a garage and we had a contractor who was quite professional that did the fleet vehicles ranging from Buick Centuries to Kenworths. Bought the 80 after leaving employment there and needed a new windshield, so called them up. They were quite amenable to following the FSM procedure after I explained what was needed, likely due to our prior relationship, but they did note it was definitely different than how they usually did things. They did get it right and no leaks ensued, so yet another data point here in this often problematic work.
- Thread starter
- #26
Well I get my FSM tomorrow in the mail along with the electrical diagram. When it comes time I will make some photocopies and as much as possible help them understand the importance of doing it the right way. Appreciate the heads up! Did NOT realize it was an issue.
I plan on changing diff fluid this weekend and feel like I saw somewhere someone talking about getting replacements for the drain and fill plugs. Looked at Cruiser outfitters but could not find them, anyone think this is a good idea and guide me to where I could get some?
Just called local dealership, they have the gaskets, but for the 4 plugs it will be $75, yikes.
I plan on changing diff fluid this weekend and feel like I saw somewhere someone talking about getting replacements for the drain and fill plugs. Looked at Cruiser outfitters but could not find them, anyone think this is a good idea and guide me to where I could get some?
Just called local dealership, they have the gaskets, but for the 4 plugs it will be $75, yikes.
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I think the stock drain plugs are fine though I did "upgrade" to the allen head versions on my 80.
The main benefit of the allen headed plugs seems to be that they survive rock bashing better and are less likely to get damaged to the point where they are hard to remove. I don't rock crawl so that wasn't an issue for me.
With the stock plugs, the shoulder height of the hex head is a bit shallow. I found that it really helped to grind the beveled / tapered tip off of the socket that I used on those plugs. If you grind that end of the socket off then the socket can fully engage the shallow nut. A non-modified socket will only partially engage the side of the plug because of the tapered tip and be more likely to push off of the plug.
If you plan to rock bash a lot you can also weld on a beefier raised lip around the plugs (at least the drains) to improve their protection from getting deformed by rocks.
The main benefit of the allen headed plugs seems to be that they survive rock bashing better and are less likely to get damaged to the point where they are hard to remove. I don't rock crawl so that wasn't an issue for me.
With the stock plugs, the shoulder height of the hex head is a bit shallow. I found that it really helped to grind the beveled / tapered tip off of the socket that I used on those plugs. If you grind that end of the socket off then the socket can fully engage the shallow nut. A non-modified socket will only partially engage the side of the plug because of the tapered tip and be more likely to push off of the plug.
If you plan to rock bash a lot you can also weld on a beefier raised lip around the plugs (at least the drains) to improve their protection from getting deformed by rocks.
Not all dealerships use the same MSRP. Shop the online stores
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Also get your electronic version of the FSM above in the RESOURCES section.
You can get the Allen head drain plugs from Wit's End for a very reasonable price.
Right here!
Magnetic Drain & Fill Plug With Gasket - Fits 1958+ Land Cruiser Applications (See Guide Below) (OP18021)
Magnetic Drain & Fill Plug With Gasket - Fits 1958+ Land Cruiser Applications (See Guide Below) (OP18021)
cruiserteq.com
- Thread starter
- #31
Ordered! ThanksRight here!
Magnetic Drain & Fill Plug With Gasket - Fits 1958+ Land Cruiser Applications (See Guide Below) (OP18021)
Magnetic Drain & Fill Plug With Gasket - Fits 1958+ Land Cruiser Applications (See Guide Below) (OP18021)
- Thread starter
- #32
Hey I am also looking for a kit to rebuild knuckles and hubs on both front and rear, is that two separate kits?Right here!
Magnetic Drain & Fill Plug With Gasket - Fits 1958+ Land Cruiser Applications (See Guide Below) (OP18021)
Magnetic Drain & Fill Plug With Gasket - Fits 1958+ Land Cruiser Applications (See Guide Below) (OP18021)
Thank you!
Yes, front axle rebuild kits and rear axle kits are different kits as there are many variations.
For a 1995 with full-float axles (verify thats what you have please)
Front (Choose Bearings)
8x Series Knuckle Rebuild Kit - Fits 1/1990-1/1998 80/81 Series & LX450
8x Series Knuckle Rebuild Kit - Fits 8x 1/1990-1/1998 80/81 Series & LX450 (FA9097)
cruiserteq.com
Rear w/Koyo Bearings:
Full-Float Rear Axle Koyo Bearing/Seal Kit - Fits 8/92'-1/98' 7x/8x Full-Float Axles
Full Float Rear Axle Kits For Toyota Land Cruiser
cruiserteq.com
If you have lockers, the rear kit is different as those include the diff gasket too. With locker:
Full-Float Rear Axle Koyo Bearing/Seal Kit - Fits 8/92'-1/98' 7x/8x Full-Float Axles W/OE Locker
Full Float Rear Axle Kits For Toyota Land Cruiser
cruiserteq.com
- Thread starter
- #35
I will verify, I am relatively sure it is full float but of course being sure is necessary. Thank you again with the help. I think I am going to rebuild the hubs and knuckles but also want to replace rotors/calipers and put a new suspension on it as well. It will be easier to do all that at the same time, but I am not sure I am ready to pull the trigger on a particular suspension. I am looking at a 4 to 6" lift in order to run 35 to 37 " tires. But then there is the question of the front and rear axle gears and what direction I want to go there and I just have not had time to do enough research to make a decision there. Need to read through a few more posts.
You don't need a 4" to 6" lift to run 35's. I don't think even for 37's. Maybe 3" max.
Do some searching and looking at other's photos (the 35+ tire thread will help with pics and comments)
- Thread starter
- #37
Just in the short time since my previous post I have done some looking. I am always about value and it looks like most on here feel that going beyond 35" requires a significant step up with gearing and driveline mods. Again I am not into rock crawling, but clearance is key on some of the trails we run. and I want it to drive well on the hwy too. So I think I will go with 35" tires, now just to figure out the lift, gearing and driveline mods...
If you are truly using the vehicle for overlanding I'd really recommend sticking with 33" tires (285/75/16) and a 1.75" lift.
No changes to gearing, no issues with drivelines or vibration, no brake line extensions, easy caster correction options and still enough clearance for pretty much any "overland" situation. MPG will be in the normal 12-14 range and you'll still be able to go 70+ on the highway and stop and turn about the same as stock.
Icing on the cake = without a rack it'll still fit into the garage.
No changes to gearing, no issues with drivelines or vibration, no brake line extensions, easy caster correction options and still enough clearance for pretty much any "overland" situation. MPG will be in the normal 12-14 range and you'll still be able to go 70+ on the highway and stop and turn about the same as stock.
Icing on the cake = without a rack it'll still fit into the garage.
- Thread starter
- #39
This is VERY tempting. The most aggressive I have done/will likely do is the alpine loop. But I want to be completely transparent here, I like the way 35's look. I plan to rebuild both axles anyway so a regear will not be any more work. Will there be a LOT more driveline work with a 2.5" lift and 35's?
If you are already redoing the differentials then 2.5" and 35" won't be more work.
I totally agree that 35" tires look cool but for me it would be either 33" and a low lift or 37" and a bigger lift. It's kind of the decision between a full on super capable 4x4 vs more of the typical lets explore 95% of everything but skip the super hard stuff kind of vehicle.
I totally agree that 35" tires look cool but for me it would be either 33" and a low lift or 37" and a bigger lift. It's kind of the decision between a full on super capable 4x4 vs more of the typical lets explore 95% of everything but skip the super hard stuff kind of vehicle.
