mudgudgeon
Resident galah
What's the difference between a mechanic and a surgeon?
A mechanic washes his hands BEFORE going to the toilet
Amateur Overlander
- Thread starter texdoc77
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
What's the difference between a mechanic and a surgeon?
A mechanic washes his hands BEFORE going to the toilet
While you have the valve cover off, I'd recommend checking the valve lash.
Not fun, but...
- Thread starter
- #103
I should have thought of that myself. Valve cover is back on so I think I will let it ride for now. Next time the cover is off I will remember to do this.
- Thread starter
- #104
PM items getting close to being done. Today I was able to get the new belts on after tightening up the fan clutch. New fan shroud in place, radiator bolted in and all hoses hooked back up. Throttle body back in place with all hoses hooked back up, almost all of them new. replaced fuel filter and fuel line associated with that. Battery tray and battery placed back. Filled cooling system back up with coolant and did not see any leaks. Kept my fingers crossed when I started it back up since I had messed with the timing, but no worries, cranked right up and I adjusted the distributor to make sure it was humming on all cylinders. Bolted that back in and felt pretty good about everything. I still need to replace all vacuum hoses, but it was getting pretty close to Super Bowl start time and I had some cattle get out so I had to deal with that. I do plan on getting an M2K alternator and there is still a little I need to do to put the inside back together. I do think there is a power steering fluid leak coming out of the reservoir, but I suspect I cleaned up whatever oil leaks I had.
- Thread starter
- #105
Concerning that aforementioned PS fluid leak. I noted that it was coming from the top of where the oil cooler line plugs into the reservoir. I did not see a crack or drip from the line itself. So I took a worm drive clamp and tightened it up at the top keeping the original clip in place. I am not sure if this is a long term or short term fix, but for now it IS fixed and for much less time and money than a new line.
I have driven it all afternoon and you can see it is still dry at the junction just above the clamp. Fingers crossed.
I also installed one of the autozone charcoal canisters that has been reported to work well. I had a little trouble finding the tank and purge lines since the tank line was attached to a metal filter of some kind and zip tied. But find them I did and put everything in place. I was not having any specific issues while filling up, but PM is PM and I wanted to replace it.
I also have some pix of my upgraded interior for you.
These are custom made covers with seat foam repair. It was a little bit of a journey and I would not say it looks perfect, though in the pix you can hardly tell. I did not do the work and the gentleman I worked with was slow, but he was nice and relatively inexpensive. The material is 100% genuine vinyl, probably the best option for an overlanding vehicle. He could not source leather. All in all I am happy and quite frankly in my area I did not have many options. I will say it is lightyears of an improvement from where I was and I am not ashamed to have my wife ride with me now.
I also repaired the seat gears with the new plastic gear. Out of all the things I have "fixed" for whatever reason I really enjoyed that fix. It seemed elegant, call me crazy.
Somewhere along the way I misplaced my transfer case leather boot cover so there is an unsightly hole in my front console. I did find that part on amazon though so I have one on the way. I mentioned last time ordering an m2K alternator, however, in the time it took to get that deal done land tank came back in stock with his alternator upgrade and I purchased that instead. It is roughly half the price for the 150amp upgrade.
My next interior upgrade will be the driver side door panel. Mine is broken and the handle to close the door is not repairable. The tab for the screw is broken and I do not have good luck with adhesives in areas like that. I found one on eBay and I spent way too much on it. They are hard to find in good condition. I do plan on purchasing new window runs for every window. They all are a little slow, but not nearly as bad as videos I have seen. If nothing else I may replace the front driver side which seems to have had more wear and tear of any of them. I do need to drop it off at the shop to get the new 4.88 differentials installed along with air lockers and on board air.
And then and then and then...
I have driven it all afternoon and you can see it is still dry at the junction just above the clamp. Fingers crossed.
I also installed one of the autozone charcoal canisters that has been reported to work well. I had a little trouble finding the tank and purge lines since the tank line was attached to a metal filter of some kind and zip tied. But find them I did and put everything in place. I was not having any specific issues while filling up, but PM is PM and I wanted to replace it.
I also have some pix of my upgraded interior for you.
These are custom made covers with seat foam repair. It was a little bit of a journey and I would not say it looks perfect, though in the pix you can hardly tell. I did not do the work and the gentleman I worked with was slow, but he was nice and relatively inexpensive. The material is 100% genuine vinyl, probably the best option for an overlanding vehicle. He could not source leather. All in all I am happy and quite frankly in my area I did not have many options. I will say it is lightyears of an improvement from where I was and I am not ashamed to have my wife ride with me now.
I also repaired the seat gears with the new plastic gear. Out of all the things I have "fixed" for whatever reason I really enjoyed that fix. It seemed elegant, call me crazy.
Somewhere along the way I misplaced my transfer case leather boot cover so there is an unsightly hole in my front console. I did find that part on amazon though so I have one on the way. I mentioned last time ordering an m2K alternator, however, in the time it took to get that deal done land tank came back in stock with his alternator upgrade and I purchased that instead. It is roughly half the price for the 150amp upgrade.
My next interior upgrade will be the driver side door panel. Mine is broken and the handle to close the door is not repairable. The tab for the screw is broken and I do not have good luck with adhesives in areas like that. I found one on eBay and I spent way too much on it. They are hard to find in good condition. I do plan on purchasing new window runs for every window. They all are a little slow, but not nearly as bad as videos I have seen. If nothing else I may replace the front driver side which seems to have had more wear and tear of any of them. I do need to drop it off at the shop to get the new 4.88 differentials installed along with air lockers and on board air.
And then and then and then...
The drivers window can usually stand replacement of its runs as it gets the most use. You might try dry silicone spray on everything else, as it will usually markedly improve the window speed enough to obviate the need for replacement unless there is an obvious defect.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Keep it on your PM list.
The pic shows that hose is cracked in several places around that tube. Matter of time before it leaks again.
I just used some oil tested hose from auto parts store. Petty sure the toyota hose for this is a straight bit of hose
- Thread starter
- #108
I will give this a shot first, sounds like a plan.
- Thread starter
- #109
I mean, yeah. When I looked to replace that hose it is not a separate part, it is either the whole paper clip or nothing. Without thinking too hard about it I figured there was a reason. But if I could get just the hose replaced, that would be the long term fix. What type of hose would I purchase?
- Thread starter
- #110
It's Back!!!!
I dropped my Land Cruiser off in February for new diffs and the addition of front and rear ARB lockers. Along the way it needed new front knuckles and spindles and a LOT of back and forth about what was going on but I got it back today!!! Of course it's a little hard to tell how much difference the new diffs made but I have a compressor button and two locker buttons on my dash now so there's that. But the new front knuckles was a good find and I'm glad it got done. We had planned to take it to Lake City, CO next week, but I do not have time to get it ready at this point so it will stay here and get a lot of love when we get back. I want to put Dobinson suspension on it and I have an ARB front bumper and 4x4 labs rear bumper and sliders that will be going on along with a dual battery setup. Should be ready for the next adventure in September. I will be updating more frequently now that I actually have it back.
I dropped my Land Cruiser off in February for new diffs and the addition of front and rear ARB lockers. Along the way it needed new front knuckles and spindles and a LOT of back and forth about what was going on but I got it back today!!! Of course it's a little hard to tell how much difference the new diffs made but I have a compressor button and two locker buttons on my dash now so there's that. But the new front knuckles was a good find and I'm glad it got done. We had planned to take it to Lake City, CO next week, but I do not have time to get it ready at this point so it will stay here and get a lot of love when we get back. I want to put Dobinson suspension on it and I have an ARB front bumper and 4x4 labs rear bumper and sliders that will be going on along with a dual battery setup. Should be ready for the next adventure in September. I will be updating more frequently now that I actually have it back.
Lake City 
- Thread starter
- #112
We drove back from Lake City on Saturday and I installed the ARB front bumper with Badlands Winch on Sunday. I also replaced the driver side door cover with one that was in a little better shape. The main connecting screw to the door frame had busted and the door had give in it when pulled to close, no bueno for me. The KC lights look weird with how they are mounted but that was just me messing around. I plan to install all four in the lower position which will look much more aesthetically pleasing. I just need to add light tabs. The Antenna is from Alamosa Antennas and will be paired with my 50w Midland GMRS Radio. Here is a pic.
I am now seriously looking at my suspension set up. I plan on going with the 2.5" dual rate springs and 3 way adjustable shocks from Dobinson. Do you guys recommend adding adjustable upper and lower control arms for the rear and adjustable front and rear panhard bars or do you think with that lift I can just roll with front bushing caster correction?
I am now seriously looking at my suspension set up. I plan on going with the 2.5" dual rate springs and 3 way adjustable shocks from Dobinson. Do you guys recommend adding adjustable upper and lower control arms for the rear and adjustable front and rear panhard bars or do you think with that lift I can just roll with front bushing caster correction?
With that much lift I don’t think adjustable rear control arms are necessary.
For the rear panhard I would use a panhard correction bracket, for the front I like the adjustable panhard to keep the axle center at ride height.
Either get the caster correcting front control, arms, or go with plate's don’t mess around with the bushings.
For the rear panhard I would use a panhard correction bracket, for the front I like the adjustable panhard to keep the axle center at ride height.
Either get the caster correcting front control, arms, or go with plate's don’t mess around with the bushings.
- Thread starter
- #114
So to be clear you feel like in the front a caster plate or new control arms along with an adjustable panhard, and in the rear just a panhard correction bracket?
Correct
- Thread starter
- #116
Thank youCorrect
- Thread starter
- #117
OK got the dobinson spring coils and MRA shocks ordered this morning. I'm going with caster correction bushings for now but plan to order the Delta VS radius arms later this year. I did get the adjustable front panhard and will be ordering the delta vs rear panhard lift. I also purchased both front and rear swaybar drop kits. Should be in next week with installation late next week or the week after. I want to get the rear bumper and sliders installed prior to the suspension which will allow the TLC to have the correct weight on it for suspension geometry purposes. The rear bumper and sliders is being shipped today so I expect it next week. I will remove the stock rear bumper and get the frame cut down appropriately so all I need to do is slide the new bumper on when it arrives. I will post some pix once that is done.
- Thread starter
- #118
Crunch Time
So my son and his fiancé have a trip planned in September back to the Alpine Loop. They have strongly hinted that our family and her family need to come along just in case a spontaneous ceremony occurs. So here we go. I have it base lined and stock diffs are swapped for 4.88 with lockers front and rear. The interior has been redone and I am knocking out little projects and big projects all over the place. So what I have left is the following:
Notice the spare with original wheel and tire!
Inside frame rails ground down and ready for install.
Just a pic of my solder set up for the electrical wires for my midland gmrs radio.
Ok my hope is to get the rest of the items on the list knocked out before Sunday evening which is when I plan to take it to get the suspension put on. In a perfect world I would have a two post lift and all the time in the world. But It's not and I don't and I don't so let the pros eat! If all goes to plan my hope would be to get the TLC back by mid-August just in time to throw some new rubber on it and get anything else not finished buttoned up. We leave September 5th. Feels like an episode of Iron Chef, "Will he make it in time?!" Stay Tuned!!
So my son and his fiancé have a trip planned in September back to the Alpine Loop. They have strongly hinted that our family and her family need to come along just in case a spontaneous ceremony occurs. So here we go. I have it base lined and stock diffs are swapped for 4.88 with lockers front and rear. The interior has been redone and I am knocking out little projects and big projects all over the place. So what I have left is the following:
- prepare rear frame for new bumper (grind down weld points from removed cross member)
- install battery brackets on both batteries
- replace blinker flasher
- install ignition switched bus bars
- install front light tabs and paint
- install front lights with switches
- install BCDC charger with midi fuses
- install inverter
- relocate ARB compressor and rerun air lines and electrical lines
- fix transfer case boot wire
- install usb ports X 4
- new tires/wheels
Notice the spare with original wheel and tire!
Inside frame rails ground down and ready for install.
Just a pic of my solder set up for the electrical wires for my midland gmrs radio.
Ok my hope is to get the rest of the items on the list knocked out before Sunday evening which is when I plan to take it to get the suspension put on. In a perfect world I would have a two post lift and all the time in the world. But It's not and I don't and I don't so let the pros eat! If all goes to plan my hope would be to get the TLC back by mid-August just in time to throw some new rubber on it and get anything else not finished buttoned up. We leave September 5th. Feels like an episode of Iron Chef, "Will he make it in time?!" Stay Tuned!!
- Thread starter
- #119
UPDATE!!
I worked very hard over the weekend and got the TLC dropped off yesterday evening. Here is what I got accomplished:
You can see here the Vgate terminal Bus bars. I like these for many reasons, but they are a little pricey.
You can see the Redarc charger here. It is in the place where the radiator reservoir used to be. I did straighten out the lip so it would sit flush. The instrument has cut out holes which would not work so I drilled directly into the lip, but only at the top. It appears to be very sturdy.
I relocated the reservoir. I removed the bracket, trimmed it and bolted it directly to the second battery tray. If you do this make sure the top does not hit the hood when it closes. Ask me how I know.
The slee mounting bracket for single compressor works very well here. One issue is that it somewhat occludes the firewall grommet which makes running wires to the cab slightly more difficult. You can also see here the ABS is removed and front and rear brake lines have been rewired.
Finally I ran some 12awg wire to the in cab bus bar with ignition relay switch. I wired my new chargers off of this along with the 12v DC charger in the back for my Wagan Tech battery.
I worked very hard over the weekend and got the TLC dropped off yesterday evening. Here is what I got accomplished:
- prepare rear frame for new bumper (grind down weld points from removed cross member) DONE
- install battery brackets on both batteries DONE
- replace blinker flasher DONE
- install ignition switched bus bars DONE
- install front light tabs and paint
- install front lights with switches
- install BCDC charger with midi fuses DONE
- install inverter - ended up realzing my Wagan Tech Ex18 IS and inverter, but that led to...
- install 12v DC charger in rear of vehicle DONE
- relocate ARB compressor and rerun air lines and electrical lines PARTIAL - it is relocated and rewired, but still needs to be replumbed
- fix transfer case boot wire
- install usb ports X 4 - DONE
- new tires/wheels
- rear rotor, brake pad and caliper replacement DONE
- front rotor brake pad and caliper replacement - since the hubs have to be taken apart I am going to let the shop do this part
- install rear bumper with tire carrier and jerry can rack DONE
- install sliders DONE
- remove ABS system DONE
You can see here the Vgate terminal Bus bars. I like these for many reasons, but they are a little pricey.
You can see the Redarc charger here. It is in the place where the radiator reservoir used to be. I did straighten out the lip so it would sit flush. The instrument has cut out holes which would not work so I drilled directly into the lip, but only at the top. It appears to be very sturdy.
I relocated the reservoir. I removed the bracket, trimmed it and bolted it directly to the second battery tray. If you do this make sure the top does not hit the hood when it closes. Ask me how I know.
The slee mounting bracket for single compressor works very well here. One issue is that it somewhat occludes the firewall grommet which makes running wires to the cab slightly more difficult. You can also see here the ABS is removed and front and rear brake lines have been rewired.
Finally I ran some 12awg wire to the in cab bus bar with ignition relay switch. I wired my new chargers off of this along with the 12v DC charger in the back for my Wagan Tech battery.
- Thread starter
- #120
More pix
New rotor installed. Calipers I bought already had the bracket installed which made the passenger side much quicker once I knew that, LOL.
4X4 labs sliders. Look beefy, pretty straightforward install.
Ugh, my hand is not the important thing here but it is the part in focus. Sorry. Here is the 4X4 Labs rear bumper installed. It slid right on and only took about 15 mins to install, once I had the frame prepped. VERY sturdy, no squeaks and the hydraulics are top notch. Minimal but functional!
New rotor installed. Calipers I bought already had the bracket installed which made the passenger side much quicker once I knew that, LOL.
4X4 labs sliders. Look beefy, pretty straightforward install.
Ugh, my hand is not the important thing here but it is the part in focus. Sorry. Here is the 4X4 Labs rear bumper installed. It slid right on and only took about 15 mins to install, once I had the frame prepped. VERY sturdy, no squeaks and the hydraulics are top notch. Minimal but functional!
