Amateur Overlander (1 Viewer)

[greentruck]

Hey Green truck,

Thanks for your comments. Searched but I did not find the mod for the temp gauge improvement. New one for me....do you have a

80 series temp mod

Amazing enough I found a very small package throughout my moves; with the resistors for an 80 series temp mod by RavenTai. :https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/64252-93-97-coolant-temperature-gauge-modification.html Let me know if anyone wants a set of resistors.

forum.ih8mud.com

gofast,
Here you go, it’s a classic. If you need the resistor, PM me I think I know where I stuck the extra one I got to do mine, yours gratis.
My copy and paste got clumsy but I think you can make it out.

 

[texdoc77]

That is an excellent point and another reason to go more conservatively.

Fit sliders and a winch. You can skull drag a vehicle through/over all sorts of shìt

 

[texdoc77]

Did a bit of PM today but did not get started as early as I would have liked. I did some reading on how to do a full ATF flush and it was a pretty easy job. Not too messy with the set up I used.

First removed the grill and then modified a 5 gallon bucket lid as so:

You can see I cut half the lid out to monitor fluid fill and drilled 3 holes to weave the tubing through to secure it and made sure it was white to monitor for color change. My Northern Tool bucket came pre marked with liters, which was helpful.

You can see I used a screw clamp to keep the tubing in place.

The fluid comes out pretty fast.

I used this funnel to replace the fluid. The tubing is just long enough to reach and the end has a cap that fits directly into the dipstick hole. There is a metal clip that keeps the dipstick in place and it works with this funnel as well. Best part is you can control the flow which was helpful in preventing any spillage.

Ended up removing and replace about 13 liters. Used valvoline MaxLife Synthetic. Fluid was not too bad, did not notice much difference after it was done. But now I know the last time it was done.

 

[texdoc77]

Changed the engine oil as well, had a hard time finding the mobil 1 conventional I wanted so I ended up using Castrol 10W40 conventional. I also added a fumoto drain plug which is nice to have. Did get the mobil 1 209A oil filter and it installed without really any trouble. Filter location is super accessible. Ended up replacing almost exactly 7.8qts which is exactly what the FSM calls for.

Tackled the diffs after lunch, as alway the hardest part was getting the drain and fill plugs off. But come off they did. Front diff fluid was a little thick with a bit of a green sheen. It took almost exactly 2.7qts to refill. Rear diff fluid looked a bit cleaner and I needed about 3.2qts to fill it back up. Transfer case fluid was the cleanest. I used my new Allen head drain and fill plugs on the diffs, thanks @cruiseroutfit.

I still need to flush and refill coolant and then top off PS and brake fluids. And windshield washer fluid and then I think fluids are done. Will look at maybe greasing drive shaft and knuckles after that tomorrow.

 

[texdoc77]

This afternoon got to take a look at the cooling system. Drained the fluid and it was in a word, "yucky". The system itself seems to be in good working order so perhaps it is just from sitting so long but here is what the fluid looked like:

So I turned the engine on and placed a water hose in the top of the radiator and flushed until it ran clean. Then added coolant back, went with red seeing as how I could not reliably tell what was in it before it was a bit of a guess. I will drive it around this week and flush it again this weekend. I did not se any bubbles but a HG issue is always a possibility.

Topped off PS, brake and wiper fluid. I had busted my grease gun so purchased a new one and some grease, but ran out of time for that today.

All in all a pretty productive weekend.

 

[mudgudgeon]

This afternoon got to take a look at the cooling system. Drained the fluid and it was in a word, "yucky". The system itself seems to be in good working order so perhaps it is just from sitting so long but here is what the fluid looked like:

View attachment 3445134

So I turned the engine on and placed a water hose in the top of the radiator and flushed until it ran clean. Then added coolant back, went with red seeing as how I could not reliably tell what was in it before it was a bit of a guess. I will drive it around this week and flush it again this weekend. I did not se any bubbles but a HG issue is always a possibility.

Topped off PS, brake and wiper fluid. I had busted my grease gun so purchased a new one and some grease, but ran out of time for that today.

All in all a pretty productive weekend.

View attachment 3445137

I'd add some radiator flush, and be sure to run the heater on hot too before you reflush it

 

[texdoc77]

I'd add some radiator flush, and be sure to run the heater on hot too before you reflush it

Yes, yes, I should have thought about that. It's actually one of the reasons I post what I do, for people smarter than me to come along and drop sage advice like this. Thanks!

 

[BILT4ME]

Yes, yes, I should have thought about that. It's actually one of the reasons I post what I do, for people smarter than me to come along and drop sage advice like this. Thanks!

Also, if you had a hose hooked up while flushing, the thermostat will not open and you may not be getting a valid flush.

Do a couple distilled water only flush and drains. I did 6 of them to clean out the goo in mine. then went to red.

 

[texdoc77]

Also, if you had a hose hooked up while flushing, the thermostat will not open and you may not be getting a valid flush.

I was running the vehicle while flushing but I bet you are right, I bet I never got the T-stat to open for the water flush. It will open over the week but that is a pretty expensive way to flush. I will keep you all updated.

Hey anyone think there is any reason to upgrade the radiator if it is not leaking? I plan on getting the "blue" fan clutch, but wondered about upgrading the radiator, any thoughts?

 

[BILT4ME]

I was running the vehicle while flushing but I bet you are right, I bet I never got the T-stat to open for the water flush. It will open over the week but that is a pretty expensive way to flush. I will keep you all updated.

Hey anyone think there is any reason to upgrade the radiator if it is not leaking? I plan on getting the "blue" fan clutch, but wondered about upgrading the radiator, any thoughts?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

That said, as I changed hoses and fixed leaks, it pushed the pressure up and my 8 YO factory radiator started to leak after I went through everything.

If the radiator in it is original or is long in the tooth and is starting to brown, then change it. Personally, I would stick with OEM.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yes, yes, I should have thought about that. It's actually one of the reasons I post what I do, for people smarter than me to come along and drop sage advice like this. Thanks!

I don't know about smarter! But your welcome

 

[texdoc77]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

That said, as I changed hoses and fixed leaks, it pushed the pressure up and my 8 YO factory radiator started to leak after I went through everything.

If the radiator in it is original or is long in the tooth and is starting to brown, then change it. Personally, I would stick with OEM.

It looks pretty old. It may be on the list to get a refresh.

 

[LandLocked93]

Is there a particular kit you would go with, the BP51's look sweet!

The standard kit, spec'd to your expected load out weight is a great starting point. They usually come with the Nitro-Charger shocks. (these too should be extended length relative to the lift height)
BP51's are $$$$ but if you want to swing them they are probably OME's top o' the line. I've heard good things about them now that they've been out a few years.

Thought the diffs were 4.10 factory?

Ok, went back for a little research and I guess I misread something somewhere.
But yes, it appears the axle code 'K29x' denotes 4.10 across the board (found on VIN tag on door). My mistake.
The last digit only refers to open, LSD, or diff locks - either '2' (K292-open diff) or '4' (K294-diff locks). '3' is LSD but reportedly not sold in US. (tho I've seen a few over the years, imports presumably).

The clearcoat 'peel' or crust as I call it isn't so bad. It will eventually all wear off. Or the wrap might pull it off.
Just wax the heck out it. It'll shine eventually. lol

 

[texdoc77]

As I am compiling a list of hoses and lines to replace I am curious how many of you go back with the original clips. Personally I have found those types of clips to be a little frustrating to manipulate. I was planning on using worm gear clamps. Any reason not to do this?

 

[jpoole]

I have a pretty strong preference for the original, spring-style clamps on the 80. I often use a long set of needle nose pliers, that have a slight bend, to manage the smaller clamps. For the larger clamps I will often use vice grips that will hold the clamp open while I move the clamp.

Amazon product ASIN B0052XQYQO
The spring clamps are faster to remove/install in my opinion and I like how they keep a constant tension on the hose over time as it heat cycles, softens, compresses, hardens, etc. The worm clamps are harder to tension correctly in my experience, may need adjustments over time and are more likely to damage the hoses in my experience.

Both clamps have their uses and I'm sure there are better tools/techniques than my own for managing both. I've certainly run plenty of worm gear clamps over the years, including many on boat through-hulls (always in pairs and offset) which I consider a critical application, but for the 80 I'll stick with the spring clamps wherever possible.

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

Yes, personal preference kinda thing. +\-‘s of each. My dad was a big worm clamp guy, so I became that. In addition to the examples of how long they’ve lasted in a truck since it left the factory, @jpoole makes the good case for original.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Same here. I strongly prefer the original clamps.

With the right tool, most of the time they are faster to remove/replace. Sometimes they can be hard to get to for sure. Same can be true with worm drive.
Worm drive clamps tend to pinch the hoses and you see weeping at the pinch point.

The oem clamps can be reused so long as they haven't been stretched. They are sub $2 to replace, good idea to plan ahead and order with new hoses.

I use a pair of linesman/electricians bullnose pliers with a shallow groove cut into the jaws, parallel & 2-3mm back from the tip with a 2mm zip disc. The groove grips the ends of the clamp nicely

 

[greentruck]

It looks pretty old. It may be on the list to get a refresh.

To check an old radiator that isn't obviously failed, take one of those non-contact remote reading gauges and go over the radiator as the truck runs being careful. to not get into the spinning blades.

A good radiator will be relatively even all over, while being somewhat hotter near the input, cooler near the output. If yours is original, it will show distinct hot and cold spots if it in need of R&R. Most originals at this point will show this latter, uneven pattern.

 

[texdoc77]

To check an old radiator that isn't obviously failed, take one of those non-contact remote reading gauges and go over the radiator as the truck runs being careful. to not get into the spinning blades.

A good radiator will be relatively even all over, while being somewhat hotter near the input, cooler near the output. If yours is original, it will show distinct hot and cold spots if it in need of R&R. Most originals at this point will show this latter, uneven pattern.

I do in fact have a laser temp gauge. How uneven are we talking? A few degrees, greater than 10, greater than 20?

 

[manofthewoods]

FYI, Mobil1 is always "full" synthetic oil, grease, lube, etc.
Mobil does make conventional lubricants, but anything Mobil1 is synthetic and considered their "top shelf." While their filters are great (my 2nd choice) Toyota filters are as good and, so far I've never paid $5 for one (on line, anyway).