Builds 1993 80, BUILD, another "it has begun" for fjbj40! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 26, 2004
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Location
east coast Canada
Finally started the baseline process. Winter is here and all the ice and salt requires she not go outside! She has 285,000 miles on her and I bought her last March in Stockton Cali.

Yesterday I stripped down the front axle. I have the knuckle kit but it turns out both birds require replacement. The passenger side splines for the drive plate are pretty much toast, I am sure it would fail if I asked for hard action. The drivers side has quite a bit of wear where the balls ride so I might as well replace both. Also the short side axle has pretty good groves in it so that will be replaced also.

When I pulled the diff drain it was stupid slow, I knew then the vent was plugged, and when I pulled the hose of the vent she sure enough started to drain way more quickly. As you can see I have soup, passenger side was way worse!

Pics

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Today was cooling system and oil leak repair.

Pulled the rad, drilled return aluminum fitting for a mechanical temp probe install. Then starter bumped the crank pulley and replaced the from main seal and the oil pump cover seal. Also discovered PS pump is going to need an overhaul, quite a good leak.:bang:

Only managed to get 5 hrs in the shop as I have to prep for New Years guests coming over.

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Boo! People who expat rust free California cars.

The PS pump is typical. It’s actually a fun rebuild. The Wits End kit is complete. The pump is easier to extract if the vehicle is lifted as you have a larger gap between axle and frame to get it out. Pro tip: buy the low and big pressure hoses before you begin the swap. Go with the gates high pressure set.
 
Boo! People who expat rust free California cars.

The PS pump is typical. It’s actually a fun rebuild. The Wits End kit is complete. The pump is easier to extract if the vehicle is lifted as you have a larger gap between axle and frame to get it out. Pro tip: buy the low and big pressure hoses before you begin the swap. Go with the gates high pressure set.

Lol, that's the only reason I bought it from Cali, rust free baby!

I already have the rad out, alt out to change the brushes so the PS pump is just sitting there asking to be pulled! And yes I will also change all the hoses at the same time😉
 
Got 6 hrs in shop today.
Managed to get PS pump off, pretty easy when the alt, distributor and battery tray is out. I also removed the TB and upper intake manifold. All inj connectors disconnected. Ign wires removed. New rad ready to go in, just need to get some foam for better sealing.
Then some shop clean-up time.

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My AC stopped cooling towards the end of the summer. I checked the window in the receiver dryer and noticed bubbles. When I removed the grill for rad removal I noticed this oil stain/dust accumulation. I guess the seals have given up? I wonder if I should remove it and get a shop to pressure check
It or just replace all sssls and hope that is it and get it charged?

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4 hours in shop yesterday, managed to get lower intake off by cutting between cylinder 4 & 5.
Removed EGR pipe and fabricated 2 block-off plates out of 1/2" 6061 for EGR.

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I unwrapped the wiring harness next to the EGR pipe and found a electrical tape wrapped wire. Opened it up and found a burnt wire. Will add an environmental splice today and re wrap.

Injectors will be heading to the injection shop tomorrow for cleaning and flow checking.


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Managed to get the upper and lower intake manifold glass beaded, painted with VHT silver flameproof paint and baked to cure it today.
Also figured out the vacuum
hoses to keep the valves for charcoal canister and FPR.
PAIR delete completed also😬

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Finished PAIR delete by cutting off the hose nipple on the air filer housing and welding a plug in. Happy with the results. Will pick up a 95+ coolant tube to replace the one that runs up along the engine.

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Got few hours in and fixed the burnt wire from the EGR pipe.
Used a Raychem environmental splice and then wrapped with dry vinyl tape followed by 3m super 33. Once that was done I added some protection by wrapping it with rubber and used wax lacing cord to close it up.

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Pulled exhaust manifolds to replace rusted fasteners and I am going to blast them and paint with VHT flameproof paint while I was at it. Decided since the intake and ex manifolds were off I would degrease the block and paint it:hillbilly:. I mixed black and white tremclad to give me a medium grey. Brightens it up and will stop rust also.

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Seeing I pulled the birfs and front axles for replacement I decided to pull the front third member. It was pretty dirty in there with about an 1/8” of sludge everywhere. First I used kerosene with the third still installed. It worked ok. But I decided to pull the third and used kerosene again, still not the result I wanted. So I used 2 cans of brake clean and it worked great at removing the final bit. Nice and clean now😄

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I built a holding tool for the crank. It was not difficult, if you have the tools :cool:. Basically a 4.5” diameter aluminum spacer and a piece of 3” wide flat bar, 28” long.
Painted crank pulley, replaced distributor oring, and installed. Waiting on big order from @Akella , my Canadian supplier of OEM Toyota parts, best deal in Canada I would say!

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Idler pulley was making noise. I looked at it and saw it was two pieces riveted togeather sandwiching a bearing.
So I drilled it apart, the bearing is like $15 . I have steel 3/32” replacements rivets from work. What a cheapskate I am:meh:

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Sealed and installed new TYC rad. Started work on knuckles.

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Seeing I can’t go any further as I am waiting for parts I decided to install my dash grab bar. My dash is mint, so cutting a few holes in it scared the s*** out of me. But luckily there were posts showing where the holes were on the back of the dash, 30 minutes later it was finished :steer:

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