Alternator Replacement

[leveeguy]

Remove the air box and lower radiator hose only and it will come out of the top, way less work than removing entire radiator. I wasted much time trying to get it out the bottom. Will be much easier going back in also.

 

[lazarus18]

So I ended up getting out of the bottom and just was to afraid of rubbing some hoses and the ac lines BUT I got it out with no damage and back in with the reman denso. Funny enough that day I took it around the block and figured out it was still misfiring (at the time I didnt know what it was) so got it checked and it was cylinder 2 misfire.... I replaced the engine coil in cylinder 2 and its all good now. Not sure If it was both issues at once or I just diagnosed the problem incorrectly. Either way its a bonus they way I look at it because I dont have to do the alternator again for along time and its done and I learned something new and how to do it. Money well spent and worth it in my opinion.

 

[flintknapper]

So I ended up getting out of the bottom and just was to afraid of rubbing some hoses and the ac lines BUT I got it out with no damage and back in with the reman denso.

^^^^^ Yes, that's the trick to it. Just unbolt the Power steering pump enough to let it slide forward.

Then there is a clamp that holds the two transmission lines rigid. I remove that so the lines can be moved over slightly. After that....just coax it out past the lower radiator hose (it will rub a bit, no big deal).

 

[dubitup]

I have a 2004 LC, do I have the square connector or oval? I'ma bit confused on which. parts searches show square but I did find "exact" fist that have the oval as well.

I am looking to replace my alternator as charging voltages are all over the place. I want plug n play, no connector modifications.

 

[hoser]

03-07 will have square, 4-pin connector.

 

[hoser]

@Photoman has made these 3-pin to 4-pin adapters for the 80 series guys. I "think" the same adapter could be used for the 98-02 100 series folks (80/100A), upgrading to the 130/150A alternators.


#427

 

[PabloCruise]

I replaced my alternator tonight - it was really easy - a two banana job. I was surprised at how easy it was to do. I read the FSM before hand and it had a bunch of extra steps that were not necessary. The FSM tells you to drain the coolant and move the hose going into the bottom of the radiator - I found this not necessary. It also suggests to remove the pulley from the power steering pump - also not necessary.

So here were my steps.

• First - remove the battery cables. You don't want to shock the crap out of your self or weld your wrench to the side of the engine block.
  
• Remove skid plates.
  
• Take 14 mm wrench and place on pulley tensioner - pull towards passenger side to remove tension on the serpentine belt - slip the belt off.
  
• Remove two 14 mm bolts on top and bottom of alternator - top is a nut - bottom is a bolt.
  
• Remove two clips on side of alternator - they are simply holding the electrical line in place and out of the way of the serpentine belt. Pinch the back of the clips and push them out of the alternator clip.
  
• This should allow you to wiggle the alternator forward and off the mounting bolt on top. Carefully push the coolant lines out of the way to gain access to the two connectors on the back.
  
• Carefully remove the grey plastic cover over a 10mm bolt. Take a small pocket screwdriver and twist the cap loose then it slides off - exposing the 10mm bolt. Remove bolt and cable attached underneath bolt.
  
• This should now allow you to turn the alternator around to access the plug on the back side or cabin side of the alternator. It has a tab on the top side - press the tab in and wiggle the connector side to side - carefully backing the cable out of the alternator. This took a while for me to do - it was full of dirt around the edges and took some patience to work it out without damaging the cables.
  
• Once free - carefully work the alternator down and out the bottom of the engine bay.
  
• Repeat steps backwards to get it back in.

There was a lot more room to work under there than the FSM states. I had plenty of wiggle room to remove it. Entire job took 1 hour. Now I have bright lights on my dash, no more failing bearings and volts are back up to 14 - it was running approximately 13 and you could hear and feel the bearings failing.

This post is $$$.

I read elsewhere to move the PS Pump out of the way, so I did that, now just struggling to orient the alternator in a way so I can remove the connectors.

Thanks!

 

[PabloCruise]

This post is $$$.

I read elsewhere to move the PS Pump out of the way, so I did that, now just struggling to orient the alternator in a way so I can remove the connectors.

Thanks!

I will say this - getting that connector off is a pain. It is like the high-pressure fitting on the steering rack when I was replacing that.

I know plenty of people got the alternator out the bottom. Mine was not going out that way.

I do not know if there is a size difference between the 80 amp and 100 amp cases? I was putting a 100 amp in, and presumably taking a 100 amp unit out. I tried taking it out the side through the splash guard. While I was trying that, I thought I would move the coolant reservoir. Once I did that I saw how easy she would come out the top, so I broke down and pulled the cover and then the air intake - Boom!
Just reporting what worked for me...

 

[jerryb]

I've been trying to find OEM parts to do an alternator rebuild on my 2005 100 series; but I have only been able to find made in China replacements for the rectifier and voltage regulator.

So this made me wonder, do the Denso "factory" rebuilds use chinese made rectifiers / voltage regulators replacement parts? Or can they source OEM/JDM/Denso replacement parts?

Toyota does list the combined stator, rectifier, and voltage regulator part # 27039-50370 or 27360-0L021 at >US$500. But not separately and is way more than a remanufactured Denso (210-0607)!

Another interesting finding when researching is that the Toyota 130A 100 series alternator uses avalanche diodes (05-07 trucks)?

The rectifier replacements I've been finding say they are avalanche diode based. The rectifier replacement part number is INR422 (copper heatsinks) or INR433 (aluminum heatsinks) with the following specifications: 117mm OD, M8 x 1.25 Batt. Term, 12-50A avalanche diodes.
The cross listed Denso p/n: 021580-6520

The closest rectifier I can find that is an Toyota OEM part is for the 120A alternator for the 105 series: 27357-17230

New Era has a rectifier p/n: D-097

The voltage regulator replacement is IN6015 (no luck in finding a made in Japan part) with the following specifications: 12 Volt, B-Circuit, IG-S-L-M(FR) Terminals, 14.2 Vset.
The cross listed Denso p/n: 126600-0150

Interestingly, IN6004 looks to be 1 to 1 fit (but not having them physically side by side not 100%), has a higher Voltage set of 14.5.
Also IN6315 looks to be 1 to 1 fit (4 pin squarish plug, but not 100% they would be compatible), has a higher than stock voltage set of 14.35.

The closest voltage regulator Toyota p/n: 27700-50040 has the right connector shape but much larger body.

Oh, New Era a japanese parts company makes a replacement voltage regulator p/n: IVR-5017 this looks to be the best bet for JDM replacement part, but not one seems to stock it stateside.

The first alternator replacement bearing is Toyota P/N:90099-10142 which are bearing std size 6303 : ID x OD X W: 17 x 47 x 14 (mm)
The second alternator replacement bearing is Toyota P/N: 90099-10140 which are bearing std size 6202W: ID x OD X W: 15 x 35 x 15 (mm), (6202 is normally 13 mm wide).

The brush replacement is Toyota P/N: 27370-58460

I don't mean to quote such an old post, or to bring back such a long thread.
But I replaced my voltage regulator with the transpo IN6015. It required snipping off a tiny bit of plastic from under the back plastic cover to get it to sit flush on the three screw posts. I measure it @14.32 volts and 14.29 with two different meters.

I wouldn't recommend replacing the small end bearing unless it's bad. That's a real pain. If you do, DO NOT seat it too far down the shaft. I have only done this type of thing once before a long time ago. Big bearing, brushes and voltage regulator easy, back end small bearing = pain in the ass.

denso 2100607

 

[Somebodyelse5]

So, what alternators are you guys using these days? Reman denso? Where are you getting them?

I had to swap in an O'reily alt on a trip a few years back and it seems it is crapping out. I have a new autozone alternator (it was the lifetime replacement one that died on the trip...no autozone around to exchange, so I exchanged it when I got home). Should I swap that one in or go for the denso?

 

[okoverland]

So, what alternators are you guys using these days? Reman denso? Where are you getting them?

I had to swap in an O'reily alt on a trip a few years back and it seems it is crapping out. I have a new autozone alternator (it was the lifetime replacement one that died on the trip...no autozone around to exchange, so I exchanged it when I got home). Should I swap that one in or go for the denso?

I will tell you I had the same experience with the AutoZone alternator. Died after two years, but because of the timing of the failure (Friday before a trip) I just swapped it under their lifetime warranty and put another one in. I'm also looking for a long term solution. I have a 99 LC.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I will tell you I had the same experience with the AutoZone alternator. Died after two years, but because of the timing of the failure (Friday before a trip) I just swapped it under their lifetime warranty and put another one in. I'm also looking for a long term solution. I have a 99 LC.

When I originally swapped that alternator in, ~2014ish, the word on mud was that the rebuilt autozone alts were just as good as the rebuilt denso's.... but it doesn't seem that way.

Hoping someone responds with a reputable source that they've had good luck with. I'd hate to swap in another autozone alt but I guess it may be what I have to do for now. Today the 80 is doing commute duty

 

[TXLX100]

I use toyota / denso alternators. It's too much if a pain to deal with and swap aftermarket units. When I had a GM350, I carried an extra alternator and belt because autozone units would seize regularly.

 

[PabloCruise]

I got a reman from local Toyota parts dep't...

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I got a reman from local Toyota parts dep't...

do you recall what it ran you?

 

[hoser]

I went to the Denso site: DENSO Auto Parts

Where to buy > Retail > Alternator > Zip Code

And I purchased it local. It came in blue Denso box. Only time will tell but it was the most direct to Denso Remanufactured as I could get. It was $155/plus tax for the LC 130A alternator.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I went to the Denso site: DENSO Auto Parts

Where to buy > Retail > Alternator > Zip Code

And I purchased it local. It came in blue Denso box. Only time will tell but it was the most direct to Denso Remanufactured as I could get. It was $155/plus tax for the LC 130A alternator.

Thanks for that. Went to their site and they say that part I need is:

what part number did you buy to get the 130 Amp? Did you need to do any harness mods?

 

[hoser]

Look up a 2005 LC on the Denso site and it’ll show the 130A alternator. You only need to change the connector to the square style. All your existing wiring and fuse can stay the same. Or you can source a pigtail converter as I mentioned earlier in this same thread.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Look up a 2005 LC on the Denso site and it’ll show the 130A alternator. You only need to change the connector to the square style. All your existing wiring and fuse can stay the same. Or you can source a pigtail converter as I mentioned earlier in this same thread.

Got it, thanks sir!!

 

[Topoguide]

I just found a reputable shop locally. He went through it and rebuilt what needed to be rebuilt, only charged me for what was bad, and had it back in less than 24 hours. Haven't had any problems, and I have peace of mind knowing it was good work.