Alternator Replacement (2 Viewers)
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So . . . got in my 1999 LC tonight after work, turned the ignition and immediately heard a whine from the front PS engine bay. Ugh.
Got home and started researching possible replacements.
Then ran over to local Auto Zone just to check to make sure - yup, diodes failed (any explanation? googled it and didn't find a good one) and alternator needs to be replaced.
Noticed the dash lights were significantly more dim than usual on the way home.
Got two questions:
Got home and started researching possible replacements.
Then ran over to local Auto Zone just to check to make sure - yup, diodes failed (any explanation? googled it and didn't find a good one) and alternator needs to be replaced.
Noticed the dash lights were significantly more dim than usual on the way home.
Got two questions:
- What's the best replacement? Denso 210-0565 100A reman? Other; e.g. Sequoia w/ higher amps (2 aftermarket amps, ham, and adding off-road lights soon but no winch plans)?
- Was planning an off-road run tomorrow night (lousy timing) w/ the local club. Best to sit this one out or take a chance and run it (sunset around 5:45, starts at 6:30 until around 10:30 or so)?
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probably best to sit out, leaky diodes can cause other problems like damaging electronics and draining the battery (which can then also strain the starter if you’re even able to start and will further strain the alternator).
looks like diodes can overheat and that can happen when trying to charge a severly undercharged battery, if the battery is disconnected when the engine is running, if the battery cables/connections are bad (loose or corroded or frayed), when jumping a car a surge can toast the diodes, a battery charger connected to the battery in reverse polarity (if still connected to the alternator), etc.
Some links with more info on some causes of diode failure:
- Starters and Alternators: Common Misdiagnosis | KnowYourParts
-https://itstillruns.com/causes-alternator-diode-failure-5973337.html
-https://www.underhoodservice.com/tech-tip-understanding-why-alternators-and-starters-fail/
separate note - how confident are you on the diagnoses? Worth double checking since it should be easy to confirm bad diodes by checking for ac voltage across the battery terminals while engine is running. Any ac voltage showing up would indicate bad diodesnot doing their job. Also pretty sure you should have a parasitic draw on the battery with the bad diode.
also - the whine led you to be concerned about the alternator? no other symptoms or issues other than a whiney noise? Are you sure the whine was from the alternator? Fwiw i think a whine is unrelated to a bad diode other than an old worn out alternator may have more than one problem (bad bearing, bad diode etc). But if you have a bad diode i would expect some other symtpoms like battery not being fully charged and also draining - so hard to start or not starting and then also low battery voltage... you may want to confirm your battery is still good and if it is then fully charge it so you don’t ruin your battery before getting the alternator fixed/replaced.
I'd go Denso Reman and then consider an isolated second battery at some point. Use your primary to start and run the engine (and OEM components), second battery to handle all auxiliary items.
The sequoia 130A went in easy for me. My connector crumbled upon removal and had all the parts so made sense for me with a 2nd battery. How many miles on current alternator?
i would def not go wheeling if sure you have a dying alt
i would def not go wheeling if sure you have a dying alt
Yep, my connector crumbled like a cookie as well. Fortunately I had anticipated that and had a connector in hand before starting the job.
Just did mine yesterday, replaced it with a orileys Denso reman lifetime warranty one for about $130 . I worked from the bottom with the only major issue being the plastic connector plug . As others have stated mine was tough to get out , it took some patience and a small screwdriver slowly working around the edges , even then I broke it bad enough I wasn’t comfortable reusing it . It was really brittle from age and heat. I found from a post here that thankfully the plug is available from the dealer Here’s that info. Real time help alternator plug wiring colors
I did pull the P/S pulley and replaced the nut as advised here someplace but honestly think it’s fine to reuse it with some blue lock tite. I think the factory nut has locktite on it and is why it shows as a non reusable part.
I’d have to argue with whoever said it was a one banana job.. but it wasn’t to bad. Mine is a 2001 and I didn’t have to remove any lines or hoses working from below. I have submerged mine countless times crossing creeks and such but a mud hole that was deeper than expected did the job on it. After crossing the hole and then having to go back through it when the road ended and the muddy water rolling up on the hood the battery light came on shortly after but the gauge showed it was charging ok. The light went out shortly but I started hearing bearing noise a few days later, the alt. Was charging fine but the bearings were on the way out . Yea. Ih8mud.
I did pull the P/S pulley and replaced the nut as advised here someplace but honestly think it’s fine to reuse it with some blue lock tite. I think the factory nut has locktite on it and is why it shows as a non reusable part.
I’d have to argue with whoever said it was a one banana job.. but it wasn’t to bad. Mine is a 2001 and I didn’t have to remove any lines or hoses working from below. I have submerged mine countless times crossing creeks and such but a mud hole that was deeper than expected did the job on it. After crossing the hole and then having to go back through it when the road ended and the muddy water rolling up on the hood the battery light came on shortly after but the gauge showed it was charging ok. The light went out shortly but I started hearing bearing noise a few days later, the alt. Was charging fine but the bearings were on the way out . Yea. Ih8mud.
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good place to order alt, starter parts.
Alternator Rebuild Kit for 2007-2009 GX470, 2006-2007 LX470, 2007-2009 4Runner 4.7L, 2005-2007 Land Cruiser: Regulator, Brushes, Bearings- 11198RK
<h3>Alternator Repair / Rebuild Kit With Voltage Regulator, Bearings, Brushes</h3> <p>This kit includes common fail items of the alternator. Other component failures are possible and must be first checked to know if these kit items will properly repair unit. ***NOTE Does NOT include tools /...
www.maniacelectricmotors.com
I have 2006 lx470 and it had two bolts one nut that had to be replaced. I can't get an open ended wrench on the back side. any advice on how to remove this? bolt?
vice grips on super tight
weld a socket on nut
grinder with a cutting wheel, cut off the bolt/stud and buy a new one
try hammering on a 6 point socket
lock the nut in a bench vise, get another wrench on the right side on stud where those other flats are
weld a socket on nut
grinder with a cutting wheel, cut off the bolt/stud and buy a new one
try hammering on a 6 point socket
lock the nut in a bench vise, get another wrench on the right side on stud where those other flats are
Thanks for the help. I went back at it with the vice grips but put them on nut and not the shaft and it was enough, that or the pb baster soak helped. I have a cigarette lighter USB phone charger that has a digital volt indicator. The previous alternator would peak at 13.6 and would wander around. The new one right when started went up to 14.2 but i noticed as i went into reverse the volts dropped down to 12.6. Driving it would go back up to 14.2 then at a stop it would drop. I also have issue with the kids not shutting the doors and it drains the battery, this has happened a half a dozen times. The battery currently reads 12.8 with a volt meter. Did i just replace a working alternator? When the battery is the issue? It should be holding 14.2 at idle correct?
Slipping belt?
I don't know if I trust the little usb volt indicators I've used.
12.8 is a full battery.
FWIW, I had to replace both my vehicle batteries this week, they have been on so many short trips, they became permanently damaged from being almost constantly undercharged .
I don't know if I trust the little usb volt indicators I've used.
12.8 is a full battery.
FWIW, I had to replace both my vehicle batteries this week, they have been on so many short trips, they became permanently damaged from being almost constantly undercharged .
Just did mine yesterday. Replaced with a Denso reman. We will see. Mine had 240k mi. on it, and still spins freely, smoothly, with no observable issues.
I removed the three bolts on the PS pump, and moved it out of the way. Disconnect a few vac hoses and you have even more freedom to move the PS pump. I soaked the plug on the back of the alternator with Kroil, and a couple of minutes later, it easily slid apart, no issue. Removed the other connection and the bracket.
I pulled the alternator out from the top. With the PS pump out of the way, it will wiggle through this little opening...
I removed the three bolts on the PS pump, and moved it out of the way. Disconnect a few vac hoses and you have even more freedom to move the PS pump. I soaked the plug on the back of the alternator with Kroil, and a couple of minutes later, it easily slid apart, no issue. Removed the other connection and the bracket.
I pulled the alternator out from the top. With the PS pump out of the way, it will wiggle through this little opening...
That's how I wiggled mine out
Hello all!
If I may ask on a 120 1KD-FTV, how long does the labor book say that it takes to do the alternator. I am stuck and do not have my books. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!!!
If I may ask on a 120 1KD-FTV, how long does the labor book say that it takes to do the alternator. I am stuck and do not have my books. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!!!
Finally replaced the alternator. It was quite a hassle on my 2003 LC. Had to unbolt PS pump and coolant reservoir. Was able to wiggle mine out from the underneath with hose pipe out the way; however, was able to put the new one from the top. The reman at Toyota was running at around $240 plus $75 core charge with only 1yr warranty 
, to rebuild mine was $130 with aftermarket parts. Went to few junk yards the alternators there with 130k+ all covered in dirt and bad condition around $80+. Then, was able to order one on eBay from 2005-06 lx470 with only 95k original miles 
for $96 including shipping form FL to CA. Was impressed with the pristine like condition and original ‘MADE IN JAPAN” Toyota and Denso part numbers matching with my old one—runs like a champ. Now, I broke off the radiator hose pipe retainer clip and was looking all over internet and auto shops to find one-please help! This is the one I am looking for:
, to rebuild mine was $130 with aftermarket parts. Went to few junk yards the alternators there with 130k+ all covered in dirt and bad condition around $80+. Then, was able to order one on eBay from 2005-06 lx470 with only 95k original miles for $96 including shipping form FL to CA. Was impressed with the pristine like condition and original ‘MADE IN JAPAN” Toyota and Denso part numbers matching with my old one—runs like a champ. Now, I broke off the radiator hose pipe retainer clip and was looking all over internet and auto shops to find one-please help! This is the one I am looking for:It is definitely not a one banana job. The guy at the autozone asked me whether it was hard because it showed 3hr labor on his screen with my vin. It is banana until it is time actually pull out the alternator than it’s the whole treeJust did mine yesterday, replaced it with a orileys Denso reman lifetime warranty one for about $130 . I worked from the bottom with the only major issue being the plastic connector plug . As others have stated mine was tough to get out , it took some patience and a small screwdriver slowly working around the edges , even then I broke it bad enough I wasn’t comfortable reusing it . It was really brittle from age and heat. I found from a post here that thankfully the plug is available from the dealer Here’s that info. Real time help alternator plug wiring colors
I did pull the P/S pulley and replaced the nut as advised here someplace but honestly think it’s fine to reuse it with some blue lock tite. I think the factory nut has locktite on it and is why it shows as a non reusable part.
I’d have to argue with whoever said it was a one banana job.. but it wasn’t to bad. Mine is a 2001 and I didn’t have to remove any lines or hoses working from below. I have submerged mine countless times crossing creeks and such but a mud hole that was deeper than expected did the job on it. After crossing the hole and then having to go back through it when the road ended and the muddy water rolling up on the hood the battery light came on shortly after but the gauge showed it was charging ok. The light went out shortly but I started hearing bearing noise a few days later, the alt. Was charging fine but the bearings were on the way out . Yea. Ih8mud.
....lol
