Alternator Replacement (1 Viewer)

[dogdaysindurham]

I was able to pull my alternator from below on my 05 without removing the radiator hose. It was a tight squeeze.

Try partsouq.com they have really nice parts diagrams.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

partsouq.com

Wow, was able to find it. The site did not have it in stock, but dealership does. When I went to them and even showed them the part-been told it does not come separately but only with fan cover . The part number is 9046945001. Thanks a lot!

 

[dogdaysindurham]

@vladimir1986ca glad you found the part!

Partsouq’s pricing is also very competitive and will often beat US dealers even with shipping included. They send via fedex and my past experiences has been that my orders with them will arrive faster than local toyo dealers within my state. Crazy that PS is located in United Arab Emirates.

 

[super90]

FYI, my alternator brushes were about gone at 240k. Bearings were still smooth and no play. Alt was still working fine, I just replaced it proactively. Had my favorite shop (Fort Worth Generator and Starter) "rebuild" my original. They put in new bearings and brushes and blessed it. Said these Denso units are some of the best out there. $88. That unit goes on the shelf as a backup for my two trucks.

 

[Pskhaat]

This is the going price right now? Partsouq below, do I assume this is new and not reman?

vs. is this the reman from Toyota?

 

[abuck99]

part number ending in -84 is reman

 

[random101]

Stupid question but what size is the tightening locking nut? Mine seems to be stripped - looking to replace it when I go the alt

 

[dieselgeek]

Has anyone utilized this little adapter to go from 3 pin to 4 pin? Seems like it would work?

PHR Tundra/Sequoia Alternator Adapter Harness

The PHR Tundra/Sequoia Alternator Adapter Harness allows you to adapt your existing alternator harness to a larger 2UZ alternator. The OEM 2JZ alternator delivers between 90 and 105 amps. The 2000-2006 Tundra utilizes a 130 amp alternator. The 2000-2007 Sequoia utilizes a 150 amp alternator...

www.powerhouseracing.com

 

[dieselgeek]

Has anyone utilized this little adapter to go from 3 pin to 4 pin? Seems like it would work?

PHR Tundra/Sequoia Alternator Adapter Harness

The PHR Tundra/Sequoia Alternator Adapter Harness allows you to adapt your existing alternator harness to a larger 2UZ alternator. The OEM 2JZ alternator delivers between 90 and 105 amps. The 2000-2006 Tundra utilizes a 130 amp alternator. The 2000-2007 Sequoia utilizes a 150 amp alternator...

www.powerhouseracing.com

Never mind, shipping is ridiculous. Not worth it.

 

[dieselgeek]

Looking for some real time assistance. I am in the middle of trying to upgrade my alternator to the 150amp sequoia on my 2000 LX470. I am hung up on the charge wiring. I have read every thread on the internet about this swap but still am not clear on two things.

A. Charge stud on the denso 150 amp is really wimpy, I had hoped to leave the factory charge wire in place and add a heavier duty 1/0awg cable back to the battery but the stud barely has enough thread for the stock ring terminal let alone a big copper lug. Has anyone else encountered this and what was your solution? I know the wiring is way overkill but seems to be the popular size. I may downsize to 4 awg but think i will have the same issue with the stud being so short.

B. I seem to be reading some folks go right to the battery + with the upgraded charge wire, others have gone back into the fusible link box. I cannot get my head around how a 150amp alternator will not blow the 140A fusible link labeled ALT. Am I wrong in assuming ALT stands for Alternator? The second attached screenshot shows what the FSM has behind that 140A link.

If you bypass the factory charge cable, and go right to the battery, how does this circuit then get power?

Looking at the factory service manual for 2004 Land Cruiser which I think should have had a 130 amp alternator it all looks the same as my 2000. I have also dug through some sequoia and tundra wiring manuals from 2004-2005 and their fusible link ratings look the similar.

If you bypass the factory charge cable, and go right to the battery, how does this circuit then get power?

Thank you for any help you can offer

 

[jerryb]

I wouldn't go straight to the battery.

alternators aren't that efficient.

even if it was 10 feet long, 4 gauge is fine.

consider that they used somewhat smaller than 4 AWG by OD, and may not even be comparable to American wire gauge. But the stock wire is MAYBE .6mm smaller than regular welding stinger 4 AWG, and that's being generous.
Just my opinion but I would strip it out and replace it if it was bad or corroded. I wouldn't add another wire. My lugs better be correct and maintain the same kind of integrity as the stock lugs and correctly fit the wire.


the stock wire size in your LC may differ from the 2005+
People way over think this, even as deep as this rabbit hole is.

 

[dieselgeek]

Made some progress last night, got it running and seems to be charging. I think I have read to much about this and just freaked myself out thinking I am going to burn down my truck.
I found a 4awg copper lug that was thin enough to bolt down with the factory wire. Ran the new 4awg back to the fusible link, disconnected and taped off the factory 6 awg and hooked up the 4awg. This just for a test run.

I am still confused on what to do with the 140A fuseible link. Do I bypass that and run my new 4awg to a Mega fuse 175A and hook the fuse block bypassing the 140A?

 

[xplore]

Made some progress last night, got it running and seems to be charging. I think I have read to much about this and just freaked myself out thinking I am going to burn down my truck.
I found a 4awg copper lug that was thin enough to bolt down with the factory wire. Ran the new 4awg back to the fusible link, disconnected and taped off the factory 6 awg and hooked up the 4awg. This just for a test run.

I am still confused on what to do with the 140A fuseible link. Do I bypass that and run my new 4awg to a Mega fuse 175A and hook the fuse block bypassing the 140A?

I recently upgraded to a 220a alternator in my 2000 LX. I went with a heavier gauge wire running parallel to the original, however, I did not connect the original lead to the alternator or fusible link. The reason was that the ring terminal on the original cable was too small for the new post on the aftermarket alternator, and the new heavy gauge wire was more than sufficient for the current draw and length of the wire run.

I put in a new 250a fusible link inline at the battery, and I completely bypassed the original fusible link for that alternator connection. Bypassing the original does not interrupt any other circuits, so it will work just fine. Mine has been running perfectly as a daily driver for a month and a half.

If you do upgrade to another fusible link, I believe you can put up to a 200a with 12v running through 4awg up to 10 feet. It's just there to make sure that you don't burn up the wire, so you can go as high amperage as you want as long as it will still protect your wire at that current draw. I hope that helps.

 

[dieselgeek]

Thank you @xplore that is helpful. Is the entire stock fusible link block energized? How does the fuse box still get power if you no longer have a hot lead coming into the one side of the fusible link? I am not in front of my truck at the moment but that fusible link looked like it went out to the fuse block.

 

[xplore]

Thank you @xplore that is helpful. Is the entire stock fusible link block energized? How does the fuse box still get power if you no longer have a hot lead coming into the one side of the fusible link? I am not in front of my truck at the moment but that fusible link looked like it went out to the fuse block.

I only removed the alternator wire from the fusible link box that's hanging off the side of the battery. All other connections are still intact, and they are still getting everything they need by being connected to that positive battery post.

 

[dieselgeek]

Got this figured and realize I was mixed up. 175Amp fuse inline just to protect the 4g to the battery is all that is needed. The factory fusible links would not need to be upgraded to anything higher unless you were drawing more amperage through the stock systems/fuse box etc. I have everything hooked up and things are running great.

 

[dino1]

I have an early 99 and bought the 80 amp alternator. Now bummed that I could have bought the 100 amp listed for the late 99’s.

wonder why they even offer the 80 amp?

 

[hoser]

Who are “they?”

 

[dino1]

Denso

 

[hoser]

I see. At one time, Toyota had the 100A alternator supersede the 80A alternator for 98-99 model years... but I guess not anymore.... maybe because they are now all remanufactured. Anyway, I'd imagine the 80A alternator to have better longevity than a 100A alternator. Hopefully, that makes you feel better.