The transmission and transfer is not all that hard just intimidating !! But if in doubt I would drive down to George at Valley Hybrids. If you do take your emergency brake backing plate and hub.
AA Ron's FJ40 refresh (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter airon23
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #143
Not too much to update today but for good reason, because I drove out to see @orangefj45 aka George at Valley Hybrids to drop off my transmission, transfercase, and parking brake drum. I know they're in good hands and I'll get them back soon enough and be able to throw them back on.
In the meantime, I was able to pull the lifters, camshaft, and crank gear.
The trick to getting the lifters out was using a magnet to slowly pull them out. Make sure to keep in order if reusing.
Next the cam shaft came out...
And last but not least the crank shaft gear. The trick to this was getting the pulley key out. I wasn't sure exactly how to remove it, but after some searching through mud for some answers, I was able to do the job with some vice grip pliers as was suggested. Just took a little finesse, but it finally came off followed by the crank gear itself. I found using an impact wrench worked to get the gear off so that it wouldn't try to start turning the whole crank shaft while you're trying to remove the gear.
Now I should be able to get the flat head screws out using a manual impact driver I purchased, but it was getting late and I didn't want to be banging on it all night disturbing the neighbors, so I'll have a go at it tomorrow.
In the meantime, I was able to pull the lifters, camshaft, and crank gear.
The trick to getting the lifters out was using a magnet to slowly pull them out. Make sure to keep in order if reusing.
Next the cam shaft came out...
And last but not least the crank shaft gear. The trick to this was getting the pulley key out. I wasn't sure exactly how to remove it, but after some searching through mud for some answers, I was able to do the job with some vice grip pliers as was suggested. Just took a little finesse, but it finally came off followed by the crank gear itself. I found using an impact wrench worked to get the gear off so that it wouldn't try to start turning the whole crank shaft while you're trying to remove the gear.
Now I should be able to get the flat head screws out using a manual impact driver I purchased, but it was getting late and I didn't want to be banging on it all night disturbing the neighbors, so I'll have a go at it tomorrow.
Curtice
SILVER Star
Your in deep now! Nice job. Enjoying this thread.
- Thread starter
- #145
Yes and I think honestly it is much deeper than I ever really intended or knew how to do so I've learned a lot along the way. I wouldn't say I'm an expert by any means, but I'm light years from where I was when I started in on this. I think this just goes to show that anyone can really do this stuff. I've never been mechanically inclined per se, but I've learned a ton on this forum, and watching others videos, and just reading manuals to figure a bunch of things out. To the point sometimes where I feel like I've done it because I watched, read, or seen pictures of how to do something.
It has definitely been a fun ride, and I really appreciate your comments. I've been making some videos along the way and might eventually put them together into some sort of a channel if nothing else just to have more information out there for others looking to do the same thing.
It has definitely been a fun ride, and I really appreciate your comments. I've been making some videos along the way and might eventually put them together into some sort of a channel if nothing else just to have more information out there for others looking to do the same thing.
- Thread starter
- #146
Speaking of reading and manuals, I received these manuals in the mail today from @BFletch (thanks they're great). I'll use them for reference from time to time but I like to have them added to my collection. Check out some of the images from the Emission Control book, they're pretty great.
- Thread starter
- #147
For today's update, I got to do a valve job. By that I mean pull the valves, clean them up, replace the seals. The seals were all pretty bad and broken. I think there was one that did not have a break in one way or another. This was cathartic in a way and I enjoyed doing it. I feel good knowing that those seals have been fixed and will not give me anymore problems.
Can someone educate me as to what these broken seals might cause during regular driving conditions? I don't know enough to know exactly what happens if these have failed, only that it can't be good leaving them in that condition.
Can someone educate me as to what these broken seals might cause during regular driving conditions? I don't know enough to know exactly what happens if these have failed, only that it can't be good leaving them in that condition.
- Thread starter
- #148
Second thing I got done today is I successfully removed the crankshaft end plate/backing plate. It was a super pain and I stripped one of the flat head screws in the process, but eventually I got the best of it. Now it is off and cleaned up ready to receive the new seal. It is a paper seal, thick paper or cardboard-like material.
Do I need to put some gasket sealer or FIPG sealer stuff on this gasket? I struggle with when to use extra gasket sealer and when to not.
Do I need to put some gasket sealer or FIPG sealer stuff on this gasket? I struggle with when to use extra gasket sealer and when to not.
- Thread starter
- #149
Last thing I got done was drop the oil pan. This was a real PITA! The rear main seal is now ready to be replaced, but we'll get to that later.
Tomorrow I'll take my drive lines to get new u-joints put in.
Now I have several pieces to clean up and get painted using some POR15. I really like that stuff, the texture and color is great.
Tomorrow I'll take my drive lines to get new u-joints put in.
Now I have several pieces to clean up and get painted using some POR15. I really like that stuff, the texture and color is great.
The valve stem seals regulate oil to the valve guide and valve stem. When they are real old, the exhaust has much oil being burned at startup, and maybe deceleration. They contribute, big time, to fouled plugs. If you have chunks of baked-on oil on top of the valve, this is probably why. Fixing just the seals (with the head on), was the biggest victory on my currently installed motor - no more plug fouling, no more smoke out the exhaust.
I cleaned a set with an un-braided wire wheel on the grinder. I couldn't imagine how it doesn't reduce vacuum, getting in the way of the intake.
I cleaned a set with an un-braided wire wheel on the grinder. I couldn't imagine how it doesn't reduce vacuum, getting in the way of the intake.
- Thread starter
- #151
Thanks for the explanation, it makes sense.
I did have a good amount of smoke pretty much exactly as you described so I'm hoping these new seals will fix that issue. I did the same thing with wire wheel cleaning. I don't think I took pics but mine were about the same build up on the valves as yours shows.
I did have a good amount of smoke pretty much exactly as you described so I'm hoping these new seals will fix that issue. I did the same thing with wire wheel cleaning. I don't think I took pics but mine were about the same build up on the valves as yours shows.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
In my opinion, you will be miles ahead by taking your trany to Georg....in more ways than one. And he’s not that far from Reno.
Last edited:
What was your vacuum before teardown? I know that I have low vac (15-inches) and compression. I'd be curious if your vac, alone, improves by the wire wheel cleaning. As I mentioned, for the engine currently installed in my 40, I have yet to remove that head.
Really cool story, I look forward to seeing your drivetrain all back together! I have one the same color I hope to get going soon. Keep up the good work! -Matt
- Thread starter
- #157
One would think I checked all that before jumping in wouldn't you? I didn't do that at first so I won't have anything other than feel to compare it to. What triggered this whole thing was just amount of oil leaking everywhere from front to back, top to bottom. That and my desire to get this thing right and not leaking. I can't even imagine getting all the way done with this and then it starts leaking all over again. I will be so bummed. But let's not think that way right.
- Thread starter
- #158
So I made some progress that I'm fairly happy with, but that said it isn't perfect, then again neither is the rest of the landcruiser.
I like the POR15 but it is a little runny and has a tendency to drip. A couple coats to cover some of the missed spots and I'm good with how it is turning out.
Now I have to clean and paint the oil pan, what is your vote same color as engine block or black?
No picture yet but I'm painting the valve cover white with same type of paint.
I like the POR15 but it is a little runny and has a tendency to drip. A couple coats to cover some of the missed spots and I'm good with how it is turning out.
Now I have to clean and paint the oil pan, what is your vote same color as engine block or black?
No picture yet but I'm painting the valve cover white with same type of paint.
Dang Ron that's looks good 
