- Thread starter
- #261
Painted parts, cleaned parts, new parts! Ready to build... Now if I could just find some time!
Builds A pig out of hand is worth 2...
- Thread starter Napster
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
I have to say, there is no wear in this transmission. the syncros are in great shape, bearings look good, and machine marks are still visible on the teeth. Lots of measuring for my peace of mind. I am following the order in the FSM:
3rd and 4th Sycro Clearance: measured 1.0mm Limit 0.8mm
2nd syncro ring dimension: measured 1.99mm Limit 1.8mm
1st syncro ring dimension: Measured 3.92mm Limit 2.8mm
Clutch hub sleeve and Shift fork clearence: Measured 0.6mm Limit is 0.8mm
Reverse idler gear oil clearence: 0.08mm limit: 0.16mm
Reverse shift are shoe thickness: 8.21 limit: 8.1
Shoe and gears slot clearence: 0.15mm limit: 0.7mm
All new bearings and gaskets.
New o-ring on the reverse lever.
Top cover torqued to 30ft-lbs
Only sticky thing is that one of the snaprings that came off is too thick to go back on the end of the counter shaft. I guess I have to order one and wait...
3rd and 4th Sycro Clearance: measured 1.0mm Limit 0.8mm
2nd syncro ring dimension: measured 1.99mm Limit 1.8mm
1st syncro ring dimension: Measured 3.92mm Limit 2.8mm
Clutch hub sleeve and Shift fork clearence: Measured 0.6mm Limit is 0.8mm
Reverse idler gear oil clearence: 0.08mm limit: 0.16mm
Reverse shift are shoe thickness: 8.21 limit: 8.1
Shoe and gears slot clearence: 0.15mm limit: 0.7mm
All new bearings and gaskets.
New o-ring on the reverse lever.
Top cover torqued to 30ft-lbs
Only sticky thing is that one of the snaprings that came off is too thick to go back on the end of the counter shaft. I guess I have to order one and wait...
- Thread starter
- #263
Quick put the cover on before anything gets in there!
Not sure if this is visible but here is the snap ring held up to the groove it is supposed to go in. Seems like a huge difference. Hope I can get a snapping the right size.
Tomorrow I'll start on the transfer case.
Not sure if this is visible but here is the snap ring held up to the groove it is supposed to go in. Seems like a huge difference. Hope I can get a snapping the right size.
Tomorrow I'll start on the transfer case.
- Thread starter
- #264
Figured out that my rear counter shaft bearing has a slot in the outside race that it does not need. The slot is for use with a h55 and my original bearing didn't have the slot. Pulled the outer snap ring, pushed the bearing further in and was able to get the snap ring on the shaft.
Neat stuff! Doing some good work.
- Thread starter
- #266
Thanks Ron! Feels good to finally be putting things back together.
Applied silicon on all bolts and torqued the front cover to 12ft-lbs. Transmission is officially done!
On to the transfer case!
Measured the shift fork and hub sleeve clearance: Measured 0.2mm Limit 0.4mm
Disassembled the internal components, removed the pilot bearing from the shaft and pressed in the new bearing. Thats all for today.
Applied silicon on all bolts and torqued the front cover to 12ft-lbs. Transmission is officially done!
On to the transfer case!
Measured the shift fork and hub sleeve clearance: Measured 0.2mm Limit 0.4mm
Disassembled the internal components, removed the pilot bearing from the shaft and pressed in the new bearing. Thats all for today.
I enjoyed reading your build thus far. 1973 is a great year for sure, mine is only 2,310 FJ55's younger than yours. Keep up the good work and keep the family happy. You are doing it all right in my book.
- Thread starter
- #268
Good day today! Pressed new bearings onto the output shaft and measured the thrust clearances between the high and low gears: both were 0.15mm
Pressed in the new outer races.
Replace the front output shaft bearing and seal:
Installed hi/low gear select lever seal:
Installed new seal and a new o-ring on the speedo gear:
Installed a new transmission rear oil seal:
Pressed in the front output shaft:
Pressed in the new outer races.
Replace the front output shaft bearing and seal:
Installed hi/low gear select lever seal:
Installed new seal and a new o-ring on the speedo gear:
Installed a new transmission rear oil seal:
Pressed in the front output shaft:
- Thread starter
- #269
This is where I had my first issue. I was attempting to bolt the front transfer cover to the back of the transmission. I got it all lined up but could not get the cover against the trans. I carefully snugged the bolts up hoping it would pull on. I did not tighten them as the last thing I want to do is crack the case but it still would not go on. I pulled it off and the only thing I could figure was that the outer snap ring on the transmission output shaft bearing was hitting. I measured it and held the caliper up to the transfer cover and it was way too big:
I went looking for the original snap ring which luckily I had not thrown away:
I put the original one on and the case went on without issue.
The FSM says to put sealer on the upper left bolt but both the top bolts go through to the trans so I put sealer on them both. and torqued the bolts down to 47ft-lbs. I am pointing to the two bolts with sealer in this picture:
I installed a new counter shaft with a new o-ring and a new thrust washer:
The next issue was when I went to install all the internals. I was inspecting the low speed idler gear and saw 6 of these rather large burrs on the gear:
Seems to me this is could be a huge issue if those were flung off into the transfer case somewhere... They chipped off pretty easy.
I went looking for the original snap ring which luckily I had not thrown away:
I put the original one on and the case went on without issue.
The FSM says to put sealer on the upper left bolt but both the top bolts go through to the trans so I put sealer on them both. and torqued the bolts down to 47ft-lbs. I am pointing to the two bolts with sealer in this picture:
I installed a new counter shaft with a new o-ring and a new thrust washer:
The next issue was when I went to install all the internals. I was inspecting the low speed idler gear and saw 6 of these rather large burrs on the gear:
Seems to me this is could be a huge issue if those were flung off into the transfer case somewhere... They chipped off pretty easy.
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- Thread starter
- #270
Next I installed a new rear input bearing, new needle bearings on the idler shaft, new thrust washer and installed the high low speed gears and gear selector (sorry for the crappy picture):
Installed a new o ring on the back of the idler shaft and installed the rear cover:
The FSM did the same thing again, saying only the upper left 17mm bolt needs sealer but both of the top 17mm bolts go through to the transmission and so both should have sealer. You may notice that there is a bolt missing in the picture above. This was the last problem of the day. As I was gathering the bolts to bolt the cases together I found this:
It all came flooding back to me. A year (or more) ago when I pulled the transfer case apart I removed this bolt and it was like this. I had forgotten about it until now. When I was putting the top cover on the transmission I was thinking how strange it was that one bolt went all the way through to the hole for the bolt in the picture above. Seems like the top trans cover bolt was too long and hit the transfer case bolt. The good news is that the bolt was ruined on the way in and did not damage the threads on the transmission. So I need to pull the transmission top bolt, shorten it, and then get a new bolt for the transfer case. I guess it is always something...
The good news is that the trans and transfer case are mostly together and looking pretty darn good. I can not tell you how good it feels to have a rebuilt trans and transfer case... even if they are not actually in the pig yet!
Installed a new o ring on the back of the idler shaft and installed the rear cover:
The FSM did the same thing again, saying only the upper left 17mm bolt needs sealer but both of the top 17mm bolts go through to the transmission and so both should have sealer. You may notice that there is a bolt missing in the picture above. This was the last problem of the day. As I was gathering the bolts to bolt the cases together I found this:
It all came flooding back to me. A year (or more) ago when I pulled the transfer case apart I removed this bolt and it was like this. I had forgotten about it until now. When I was putting the top cover on the transmission I was thinking how strange it was that one bolt went all the way through to the hole for the bolt in the picture above. Seems like the top trans cover bolt was too long and hit the transfer case bolt. The good news is that the bolt was ruined on the way in and did not damage the threads on the transmission. So I need to pull the transmission top bolt, shorten it, and then get a new bolt for the transfer case. I guess it is always something...
The good news is that the trans and transfer case are mostly together and looking pretty darn good. I can not tell you how good it feels to have a rebuilt trans and transfer case... even if they are not actually in the pig yet!
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May I make a suggestion and I wish I would have mentioned it before you bolted up the halves... Replace your vent with a hose nipple, so you can run a vent hose up higher in the engine bay, etc. I tapped out mine and screwed in a nipple. A lot easier now! Keep up the good work!
- Thread starter
- #272
Excellent suggestion! I wish I would have thought of that before I bolted the halves! I think I just might pull it apart now before I get any further. Did you thread the aluminum case?
yup, can't remember what thread, though. I had a barbed hose fitting in my stash and just used that.
- Thread starter
- #274
At Ron's suggestion I pulled the rear transfer case cover off so the I could remove the old breather, drill and tap the hole and install a barbed fitting to raise the vent up higher. The old breather valve is just pressed into the case so I knocked a flat head screw driver under it and pried it out. I happen to have a few brass barbs laying around and grabbed one that looked the appropriate size. Had to buy a 1/4 inch pipe thread tap. Was going to drill the whole out but it did not need drilling. Ran the tap in, cleaned out all the chips, installed the barb and put the transfer case rear cover back on. Torqued to 47ft-lbs and 29ft-lbs with sealer in the right spots.
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- Thread starter
- #275
So I got a new bolt, put sealant on it and torqued it.
Installed and torqued the front companion flange and torqued to 94ft-lbs using the SST 09330-00020 (Just kidding: I made my own sst)
installed the output shaft lock nut and torqued it to 94 ft-lbs............ and thats when my transmission stopped spinning.
Removed the lock nut and pulled the case apart. It appears that I am missing the spacer that goes on the transmission output shaft before the transfer case input gear. Not sure where it when. I have distinct memories of it being on the transmission ofter taking the transfer case off but that was a year or more ago... I am going to blame it on my students as there is no way that I lost it! (instead of "no way" maybe I should say "highly unlikely" or maybe "there might be a chance") Any way, i ran out of time so I will tear my shop apart tomorrow trying to find that spacer that my students (or I) lost a year ago. Not holding my breath.
Bummer. Really hope I did not damage my rear input gear bearing...
Installed and torqued the front companion flange and torqued to 94ft-lbs using the SST 09330-00020 (Just kidding: I made my own sst)
installed the output shaft lock nut and torqued it to 94 ft-lbs............ and thats when my transmission stopped spinning.
Removed the lock nut and pulled the case apart. It appears that I am missing the spacer that goes on the transmission output shaft before the transfer case input gear. Not sure where it when. I have distinct memories of it being on the transmission ofter taking the transfer case off but that was a year or more ago... I am going to blame it on my students as there is no way that I lost it! (instead of "no way" maybe I should say "highly unlikely" or maybe "there might be a chance") Any way, i ran out of time so I will tear my shop apart tomorrow trying to find that spacer that my students (or I) lost a year ago. Not holding my breath.
Bummer. Really hope I did not damage my rear input gear bearing...
so close.......PS- I blame my students all the time. Doesn't work so well during summer, however
Man, that's a shame. I'm one of those guys, that nothing goes right the first time. if you can't find it call Georg, he should have one.
Old saying... When you point a finger at someone, there's three pointing back at you!
Good luck with it.
Old saying... When you point a finger at someone, there's three pointing back at you!
Good luck with it.
- Thread starter
- #278
Great idea, I have been trying to buy one online and next was a trip to the dealer or find someone that has one out that they can measure so I can make one. And yes I am positive this was me misplacing it! Serves me right for taking it apart so long ago!
- Thread starter
- #279
Got a spacer coming from Georg at valley hybrids. While I'm waiting I figured I would continue working on the engine. Got the oil pan on and torqued. Lifters cleaned and assembly lubed.
- Thread starter
- #280
Spacer is here! Had to remove the front transfer cover to get it on.
Torqued and sealed all necessary bolts to get back to where I was. Torqued the input shaft nut to 94ftlbs and staked the nut. Installed the input shaft cover with a new gasket and sealer on all bolts torque to spec.
Installed rear output shaft bearing retainer and torqued. Torqued rear companion flange nut to 94ftlbs. Measured rear companion flange starting torque at 21inlbs which is the high end for new bearings. Removed companion flange, added sealer to the bolts on the rear output shaft cover, torqued, installed the rear companion flange, torqued and staked the nut. Installed side cover with sealer on all bolts even though the fsm says to just put on one. Torqued the bolts. Installed 4wd sensor and two detent balls. Installed the idler shaft holder tab.
Trans and transfer case are officially done!
Torqued and sealed all necessary bolts to get back to where I was. Torqued the input shaft nut to 94ftlbs and staked the nut. Installed the input shaft cover with a new gasket and sealer on all bolts torque to spec.
Installed rear output shaft bearing retainer and torqued. Torqued rear companion flange nut to 94ftlbs. Measured rear companion flange starting torque at 21inlbs which is the high end for new bearings. Removed companion flange, added sealer to the bolts on the rear output shaft cover, torqued, installed the rear companion flange, torqued and staked the nut. Installed side cover with sealer on all bolts even though the fsm says to just put on one. Torqued the bolts. Installed 4wd sensor and two detent balls. Installed the idler shaft holder tab.
Trans and transfer case are officially done!
