Builds A pig for Father's Day (3 Viewers)

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riderjgs said:
Kinda like the smart cowboy who sits in the middle so he doesn't have to get out of the pickup to open/close gates.
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AKA "riding b!tch".
We had a Norwegian exchange student last school year. The first time he rode in my friend's Chevy 1-ton he hopped in the middle, so I explained the phrase to him.
I'm not sure if it translated well...
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Friend in Yemen came through again. Fan shroud and emergency brake cable. Pretty sure he had to get the cable from someone in Saudi. Good to have friends.

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I thought PB cables were still available in the system?
When I was doing the 5-speed swap I was looking up all the PB cables on Toyota.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Tackled the differential seals yesterday afternoon and this morning. New seals, slingers, deflectors, pinion nuts, and washers. Along the way I discovered that the current Toyota pinion nuts are 27mm vs the old nuts of 30mm. I had one of each on my diffs, 27 in the rear and 30 in the front. Guessing that probably means the front had never been gone into - but that's just a guess. I also noticed that the new slingers (goes between seal and bearing) are quite different. The new ones are flat and the old ones have dished edges. The bearing surfaces seemed to be about the same thickness although I didn't put any mics on them to check.

First I had to buy or build an SST to hold the flange. Went the build route with a 3' stick of 1 1/4" x 3/16" flat bar. Drilled two 10mm holes lined up with the holes in one side of the flange, ground out a bit of curvature in between, and walla; worked just fine. After unstaking the first nut, I geared up for a fight to get the nut off. Well that turned out to be totally anti-climatic as it took very minimal effort. Not hand loose but still nothing like what I expected.

I had put match marks on the nut and pinon before I loosened the nut. My idea was to see how much torque it took to get the original nut back to that point and to use that as a starting point for retorquing the new nut. Well at 50 ft-lbs I was already well past the match mark so I gave up on that grand plan. That outcome did make me feel better about messing with the seals, torque, etc. though.

A claw seal puller worked just fine to get the old seal out and I used a couple of magnetic pickup tools to remove the slinger. The old deflector was a bit of a pain to get off the pinon flange assembly but it eventually came out in the press. At that point I put the new parts in. The new deflector went on using a largish PVC coupling and mallet as did the seal. The '77 manual I'm using is a bit short on details and it just says to put all the parts back in. I looked in my '97 manual and it specified MP grease on the seal lip so I did that (that's actually why I cross checked the manuals). The '97 manual also specified that the seal be ~1mm "deep". Well I just tapped it in until I could just see daylight under a straight edge all the way around the circumference.

The FSM ('77 version to be clear) specifies 144-173 ft-lb on the pinion nut. I started at 145 and tried to measure the pre-load. Well I don't have an in-lb gauge so I used my 0-12 ft-lb dial torque wrench and came up with somewhere between 0.5 and 1 ft-lb. And yes I know that's incredibly inaccurate. I then went up 10 ft-lbs or so at a time and rechecked "preload" each time with the wrench and by feel. Frankly nothing changed and I stopped at 170 ft-lbs. That was my experience on both diffs. All I can say is that there is some pre-load and that it feels more than before I put the new parts in (very subjective I know). At this point I don't think it's worth buying and waiting on an in-lb split beam torque wrench because I don't want to tear all the way into these diffs and start changing spacers. I didn't have any differential problems with the original set-up, as far as I know anyway, so I am going to assume all is good at this point.

Next step will be to reassemble the axles with the diffs installed. I will wait until I have all that done before I stake the pinion nuts though.

Just a little more information on the pre-load per the FSM. The FSM reassembly procedure starts with the pinon assembly and specifies 16.5 to 22.5 in-lb for a new bearing and only 7.8 to 11.3 in-lb for an old bearing. Once you get the rest of the differential together it wants you to recheck the pre-load and specifies an additional 3.5 to 5.2 in-lb (for new or old bearings). So, if you are reusing the bearings, in other words, only changing the seal, then the pre-load is the sum of the two or 11.3 to 16.5 in-lb. That's only 0.94 to 1.38 ft-lb. Just FYI.

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Did you inspect the shims while you were in there?
 
PabloCruise said:
I thought PB cables were still available in the system?
When I was doing the 5-speed swap I was looking up all the PB cables on Toyota.
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1754836155215.webp
 
PabloCruise said:
Are you swapping thirds front to rear? I know folks will do that since the front likely has many fewer miles on it (under power) than the rear.
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Yes I did. I wouldn't have thought to even think about that but @Lifelong40Fan suggested I do so. Both diffs looked very good but I could see some slight wear/corrosion/pitting? on a few of the main ring gear teeth in the rear diff. That was enough reason for me to do the swap.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Does anyone have any opinion on painting the front (or rear) hubs? The only part that will be visible if running hubcaps will be part of the marked area on the front hub. Would be nice to paint the face, etc. but a friend that owns a shop advised me many years ago to never paint what I will label, critical bearing surfaces. He was specifically talking at the time about the hub face where the rim mounts but I'm not sure if that was good advice or just urban myth. I mean the rims are typically painted unless they are aluminum.


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Did they say why no paint?
Heat transfer?
 
PabloCruise said:
Did you inspect the shims while you were in there?
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I didn't go that deep. You have to pull the rear pinion bearing and I didn't want to go that far. I only pulled the circled parts and replaced everything but the Flange (but I did replace the Deflector)

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PabloCruise said:
Did they say why no paint?
Heat transfer?
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I should have included that information. These aren't his words but the supposed concern was deformation of the paint over time which causes the lug nuts to loosen. I really didn't subscribe to the theory at the time, or now for that matter, but he was nice enough to let me use his place of business (shop, tools, etc.) and it didn't seem like a good idea to argue with his expertise.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Decided to replace the bolts on the face of the lockers (6 each side) and added those to the order for the bushings and cushions (see above). I know I am repeating myself on this subject but I checked Partsouq and every one of those parts is less than half the US discounted price. Shipping is $3 more but the Partsouq order will get here faster. Total from my go-to US discount dealer with USPS ground: $51.95. Total from Partsouq with Fedex air: $33.49. There are occasions when the prices are much closer or even cheaper in the US but that is rare in my experience. Of course for bulky and/or heavy parts, the shipping will kill you from Dubai or Japan.

Edit: I forgot tax. Total is $55.09 from the US source.

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x2. I had to replace the under hood fuse block in the 100/470. List was over eight bills. I found it for around six and some change. PartSouq would have been in the fours...
 
WarDamnEagle said:
I didn't go that deep. You have to pull the rear pinion bearing and I didn't want to go that far. I only pulled the circled parts and replaced everything but the Flange (but I did replace the Deflector)

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I ask because of these wacky hijinks I encountered (20 years ago?!?)
It sounds like yours measured just fine.
PabloCruise

Thread 'Third Member Swap - DENIED!!!'

Dammit!!! :mad: :mad: :mad:

So I was getting ready to swap out my rear third member w/ a front third I got from a 1969 40...

I was doing some reading in the FSM before hand and came up with these conclusions regarding pre-load: (originally posted here)

The FSM has you set up the drive pinion and measure pinion preload. I believe at this point the ring gear and carrier are not present in the third member.

The FSM states:
Specified Preload (starting)
New Bearing 16.5-22.6 in-lb
Reused Bearing 7.8-11.3 in-lb

Then you keep going, put the ring gear on the carrier and...
 
PabloCruise said:
Beautiful!!!
Whenever I see an Aisan carb, I always wonder about Aisan vs Aisin. Two different companies?
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Interesting question. This is from the list of "member companies" under the Toyota global website Purchasing pages:

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So yes, two different companies.
 
Got the rims powder coated gray with RAL 7036 based on the discussion in this thread: FJ40 OEM wheel powder coating RAL codes - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-oem-wheel-powder-coating-ral-codes.967648/

My powder coating guy did a very nice job. After sand blasting he used a rust inhibiting primer powder, fully baked that out, and then put the topcoat on. I went with the 33x9.50-15 Kenda Klever RT tires. Not totally enamored with the side wall nubs but there's very little choice in a skinny 33" tire on 15" rims.

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WarDamnEagle said:
Got the rims powder coated gray with RAL 7036 based on the discussion in this thread: FJ40 OEM wheel powder coating RAL codes - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-oem-wheel-powder-coating-ral-codes.967648/

My powder coating guy did a very nice job. After sand blasting he used a rust inhibiting primer powder, fully baked that out, and then put the topcoat on. I went with the 33x9.50-15 Kenda Klever RT tires. Not totally enamored with the side wall nubs but there's very little choice in a skinny 33" tire on 15" rims.

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For those of us with MVS (multiple vehicle syndrome) swappabiliy is a factor in tire choice. So even though you might consider the Kendas overkill for the 55, trust me your other rigs won’t mind borrowing them from time to time.😉
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Got the rims powder coated gray with RAL 7036 based on the discussion in this thread: FJ40 OEM wheel powder coating RAL codes - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-oem-wheel-powder-coating-ral-codes.967648/

My powder coating guy did a very nice job. After sand blasting he used a rust inhibiting primer powder, fully baked that out, and then put the topcoat on. I went with the 33x9.50-15 Kenda Klever RT tires. Not totally enamored with the side wall nubs but there's very little choice in a skinny 33" tire on 15" rims.

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I’ll PM you my address…👍🏻
 
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