Builds A pig for Father's Day (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
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WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #582
Pig gets out occasionally but definitely not enough.
Here's a better photo. Both of these deer are from southwest Texas near Encinal. I have others that are similar but only one from Alabama that is in that category. The one on the left that you referenced wouldn't score that high due to the short tines but it is a wide rack. I would say maybe 125?? The one on the right is a much better rack; maybe mid to high 130's? I'm pretty sure I did score it but I don't think it was in the 140 class.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #584
So hypothetically, let's say I want to remove the body on my 55 and trailer it off for some TLC. Having never stripped something down that far, what would a logical order be? Or maybe not so much an order as much as just a list - although clearly some things need to come before others.
I have a lift so I would position the 55 in the lift bay (or just in front) before commencing the teardown. After all the above (and probably a few more things) can I just unbolt the body mounts and jack up the body a bit at a time until I have enough clearance to get the lift arms under 4 of the body mounts (or maybe more with some cribbing)? Plan would be to then roll the chassis out and back a trailer in.
I'm sure it's not quite as simple as it looks on paper and I've probably left out a few things. Thoughts/advice/suggestions welcome. Not starting on this tomorrow but have a window of opportunity coming up this fall with a shop that I want to use.
- Have refrigerant removed from system (Guess you can just button up the receiver/drier when you disassemble the hoses?)
- Remove complete interior (seats, door panels, dash, instrument cluster, glovebox, headliner, trim, etc.)
- Remove all exterior lights, surrounds, grill, etc.
- Pull wiring harness from body. Looks like dash, engine bay, and rear tailgate/lights are the only potentially challenging areas
- Remove exhaust hangers. It looks like I only have two connected to the body (one welded though)
- Strip engine bay of all body attachments. Mostly electrical but includes fuel and vapor hard lines on firewall.
- Haven't looked at brake lines but I guess if you pull the master then the body is free? Maybe some attachment points in the engine bay? Looks like the majority of the runs are clipped to the frame.
- Remove HVAC system from body side
- Remove fuel filler and vent/overfill soft lines and separator assembly in the wheel well area. Appears that gas tank is mounted on the frame so assume it can stay.
- Remove steering shaft. Looks like there is a slip joint on the engine side of the firewall?
- Remove transmission and transfer case shift levers (or do I need to pull the transmission tunnel?).
- Remove all non-fixed glass (leave windshield and cargo windows). Body shop will remove the fixed glass.
- Remove all door and tailgate handles, locks, and internals (but leave hinges). Potential concern here is I might have to stay overnight on the way to the shop and I want to load up all the extra body parts that I have in the pig. Will have to give that question some thought.
I have a lift so I would position the 55 in the lift bay (or just in front) before commencing the teardown. After all the above (and probably a few more things) can I just unbolt the body mounts and jack up the body a bit at a time until I have enough clearance to get the lift arms under 4 of the body mounts (or maybe more with some cribbing)? Plan would be to then roll the chassis out and back a trailer in.
I'm sure it's not quite as simple as it looks on paper and I've probably left out a few things. Thoughts/advice/suggestions welcome. Not starting on this tomorrow but have a window of opportunity coming up this fall with a shop that I want to use.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Why¿?? Resto??? 
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #586
Yes. I bought this pig with full resto in mind. Just getting to where it might be possible to start.Why¿?? Resto???
RUSH55
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Be sure to organize all the bolts removed with what parts they went to if you’re planning on reusing, even if you aren’t. Zip-lock bags and a permanent marker works good. Large, large, shelving arrangement with large storage bins, tubs, etc..
Even thought about setting up a pegboard to hang the bags of bolts on so they can be clearly seen without digging through bins.
Take a ridiculous amount of pictures for reference.
One tip I got from a paint/body co-worker was to drill a 1/8” hole through each door hinge so you can re-center them with a dowel when going back together.
Even thought about setting up a pegboard to hang the bags of bolts on so they can be clearly seen without digging through bins.
Take a ridiculous amount of pictures for reference.
One tip I got from a paint/body co-worker was to drill a 1/8” hole through each door hinge so you can re-center them with a dowel when going back together.
Greg, it would be great if you can do this and document it in the next 6-8 weeks. I’ll be watching intently.
I like your plan!
I’ve slowly been planning the same thing when pig from GJ is done. I’ve found I’m just gonna have to spend some quality time at hardware store with the variety of screws I want to replace. I have a good number of stainless steel bolts but seems like there are good number different sized screws in many areas.
I like your plan!
I’ve slowly been planning the same thing when pig from GJ is done. I’ve found I’m just gonna have to spend some quality time at hardware store with the variety of screws I want to replace. I have a good number of stainless steel bolts but seems like there are good number different sized screws in many areas.
Find your local restaurant supply and buy a couple dozen bus bins.
Rubbermaid Bus/Utility Box, 20" x 15" x 5", Grey
Rubbermaid Bus/Utility Box withstands temperatures from -20 °F to 150°F. Rounded corners for easy grip and cleaning. Dishwasher safe. 4.6 gallons. 20" x 15" x 5". Colour: Grey.
www.russellhendrix.com
I can have up to 6 cars going in my shop at a time and this is how I keep track of them all.
Buy good ziplocks in random sizes.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #590
Excellent advice; thanks. To be honest, I probably need another few months to get my shop expansion finished and everything organized before I start down this rabbit hole.Find your local restaurant supply and buy a couple dozen bus bins.
bottom side left front goes in one bin, bottom side right front goes in one bin and so on. All the small stuff goes in a ziplock in the appropriate bin, use separate bins for engine hardware verses body panel hardware you get the idea. Keep everything separated by location and type then label and stack on shelves. Clean and organize one bin at a time before you go back together.Rubbermaid Bus/Utility Box, 20" x 15" x 5", Grey
Rubbermaid Bus/Utility Box withstands temperatures from -20 °F to 150°F. Rounded corners for easy grip and cleaning. Dishwasher safe. 4.6 gallons. 20" x 15" x 5". Colour: Grey.
I can have up to 6 cars going in my shop at a time and this is how I keep track of them all.
Buy good ziplocks in random sizes.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #591
Jon, I assume you're familiar with Overland Metric?
Overland Metric: JIS Bolt Kits & Hardware | Stainless & Carbon Steel
Introducing Overland Metric: Our business is Cruiser hardware After many years of supplying JIS bolt kits on Mud (as JIS Hardware), we've decided to expand the business and open a online store with what we hope will be valuable products & information for the entire Mud community. The new...
forum.ih8mud.com
I have two of their complete kits in white and yellow zinc. That should sort 80% of the bolts you need to replace. I'm not a big fan of stainless steel just because the threads are easy to gall but they certainly have their place. He has stainless available in JIS standard which isn't always easy to find.
I'm pretty sure this isn't going to happen in the next 6 to 8 weeks but I could possibly see getting started on it within a couple of months. I absolutely have to finish this lean-to shop expansion first. I'm down to just the roof panels, there's only 14 of them and I'm hoping to get started today but I have no idea how slow that will go. Once that is done I can move a few things out of the shop, like my boat, to free up space for the pig project.
PS: McMaster Carr is my go to source for most things that I can't find locally (or am too lazy to go searching for). They are probably the best online source for fasteners. The only issue I have with them is sometimes I have to buy 50 of something when I only need 2 but their prices are very good so it's typically not that painful to place the order regardless.
Greg
I too have two different sets from him a yellow and white as I stand corrected. I used the yellows mostly on my 40. It’s the small screws in various places I’d like to replace many of. Things like those that hold pillars inside doors on my 69, several holding dash in multiple spots. Maybe it’s less than I think but I sure find several around and they all seem different.
I too have two different sets from him a yellow and white as I stand corrected. I used the yellows mostly on my 40. It’s the small screws in various places I’d like to replace many of. Things like those that hold pillars inside doors on my 69, several holding dash in multiple spots. Maybe it’s less than I think but I sure find several around and they all seem different.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #593
Again, McMaster Carr has a pretty wide selection of JIS screws:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Also, don't overthink lifting the body off.
Spray the body mount bolts with Kroil or similar. Remove the hood and radiator. Remove the interior including the trans hump and shifters. Remove obvious firewall things -booster, clutch, throttle cable, wire harness, etc. Then remove the body bolts. Put your lift under the rockers and slowly start lifting and stop to remove anything that's still connected.
Definitely follow the advice above and take plenty of photos along with bagging and tagging.
Spray the body mount bolts with Kroil or similar. Remove the hood and radiator. Remove the interior including the trans hump and shifters. Remove obvious firewall things -booster, clutch, throttle cable, wire harness, etc. Then remove the body bolts. Put your lift under the rockers and slowly start lifting and stop to remove anything that's still connected.
Definitely follow the advice above and take plenty of photos along with bagging and tagging.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #596
Good input. I have used them in the past as well.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #597
Well let's see Jon, your post was in July so I'm a little bit behind. My original "plan" was to take the body to Flagstaff in October when we went to the Eagles concert. Well that didn't happen. However, we enjoyed the Sphere and the concert so much we decided to take our two youngest sons to the same concert in March for their birthdays. Pretty sure I can make that happen now that I have the shop a bit more organized. It's still a work in progress but the pallet rack that I recently put in has helped immensely. Not great before and after photos but they should give you some idea. Got the tubs @J Mack. Thanks again for that tip. Bought 24 tubs and 12 lids. Thought that would be enough to get started. Also have some larger storage tubs.
Currently trying to run a full tank of gas out of the pig before I start tearing it apart.
Nice!
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #599
One reason I have a full tank of gas, is that my temp gauge had been running almost on "H" back in the Spring so I more or less quit driving the pig. The gauge is still running very high but I am not sure it's reading accurately. Using an IR temp gun (I know, not the most accurate but...), I get radiator surface temps between 145F and 175F while it's up to temp and running. Using the same gun on my FZJ75 I get more consistent temps around 145F. I have a new water pump, hoses, radiator, etc. but don't want to change all of that before tearing it all apart. Curious though if anyone has any thoughts on those temp readings. If it makes any difference, the PO installed an aluminum Champion brand radiator whereas the FZJ75 still has the OEM Toyota radiator.
That radiator should be more than enough, especially if it’s a dual pass radiator. Try a metered temp gauge. Cheap, easy and should be accurate enough.
