Builds A pig for Father's Day (3 Viewers)

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The dual-seal housings are factory used housings that we machine to accept the second seal. Work can be done with the t-case in the vehicle. We're installing one right now, I'll post pics shortly.
We also have EVERYTHING needed to reseal or rebuild these t-cases in stock..
Georg

Valley Hybrids
 
The dual-seal housings are factory used housings that we machine to accept the second seal. Work can be done with the t-case in the vehicle. We're installing one right now, I'll post pics shortly.
We also have EVERYTHING needed to reseal or rebuild these t-cases in stock..
Georg

Valley Hybrids

Thanks Georg. I plan on disassembling this pig in 2 or 3 years and at that time having the transmission and transfer case gone through. Would be easy at that time to ship out to you to make sure they are done right.

In the meantime, however, should I just install a new seal and hope for the best? I haven't looked at the FSM but I assume it's not that difficult to get to.
 
Georg's rear housing comes ready to bolt in with the seals installed. I did one last night. Easy peasy.

Drain T-case. Remove the parking drum, remove the backing plate, unscrew speedo cable, undo bolts retaining rear housing, bolt up new housing and reinstall the rest. You can do it under the truck in about an hour or two depending on how much cleaning you need to do.
 
Georg's rear housing comes ready to bolt in with the seals installed. I did one last night. Easy peasy.

Drain T-case. Remove the parking drum, remove the backing plate, unscrew speedo cable, undo bolts retaining rear housing, bolt up new housing and reinstall the rest. You can do it under the truck in about an hour or two depending on how much cleaning you need to do.

That's helpful to know. I didn't appreciate that the "housing" that you were referring to bolted onto the main transfer case. I just assumed it was one assembly and you would have to have the entire transfer case to make the modification. Now that I look at the parts diagrams I see the bolt on piece:


36132RETAINER, OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING, REAR NO.1
36132-60010
 
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So I'm back in the desert with too much free time on my hands. I can play with my FZJ75 pickup when I'm in Riyadh but most of the time I am elsewhere. Taking the dash apart to clean the AC ducts on the pickup made me anxious to tear the pig apart. Yes, I know; drive it and enjoy it but I can still make plans right?

So what equipment should I be keeping an eye out for to make my life as easy as possible when I do get around to the disassembly and reassembly? I'm planning on a lift, currently thinking 9 or 10 ton asymmetrical but could be convinced to go symmetrical. But that's about the only firm decision I've made.

So obvious items that come to mind are a 2T picker, a rotisserie, a body dolly, and an engine stand. Just throwing this half baked list out there to see what you guys have found invaluable.

Please forgive the fact that it will still be a couple of years before I likely embark on this journey. Thanks.
 
Easy stuff: good mig welder, good plasma cutter, oxygen/acetylene torch, drill press, vise, and 2 floor jacks. These immediately come to mind. No doubt you already have most of that stuff.

Hope things go well in the desert. Did you all buy and move into that property you mentioned?
 
Here's my thought on the rotisserie, having the lift will take away of a lot the rotisserie will do, but they make it awful nice to work on. If building one, make it out of wood like Rush, unless you're planning to do more bodies. I made one out of steel and it's in my way some times even taken down. I wouldn't feel so bad cutting up a wood one.
 
Easy stuff: good mig welder, good plasma cutter, oxygen/acetylene torch, drill press, vise, and 2 floor jacks. These immediately come to mind. No doubt you already have most of that stuff.

Hope things go well in the desert. Did you all buy and move into that property you mentioned?

Yes, the photos were post purchase. The first project that was on my list after retirement was the house and now I don't have to spend that 1 to 2 years. Now it will be to finish out the interior and floors of the shop followed by the pig........although my wife still wants some animals so fencing and pasture(s) might get in the way from time to time. Nice though that I don't have to actually build a house or a shop.

I want to do as much as possible myself but I don't want to do the actual body work. Not exactly sure what I will do in that regard. Will need to find a competent shop that will work with me........yes I know that will be difficult.
 
Here's my thought on the rotisserie, having the lift will take away of a lot the rotisserie will do, but they make it awful nice to work on. If building one, make it out of wood like Rush, unless you're planning to do more bodies. I made one out of steel and it's in my way some times even taken down. I wouldn't feel so bad cutting up a wood one.

That's good advice. I don't think I would build one. Many of the ones you can buy break down into a relatively small bundle of steel tubing.
 
The recent threads on loose steering prompted me to take a look at the tie-rod ends, etc. in the parts diagrams. I don't think my steering is unacceptably loose but at some point I'm sure I will want to tighten things up. One obvious step is to have the steering box rebuilt but I also came up with the following parts list based on reading threads here and checking what is still available. So this is the list that I came up with but I must admit the parts diagrams are a little confusing as they cover both the 40's and 55's. I haven't gone up the steering column yet either.

Any further suggestions or obvious mistakes noted? Unfortunately I can't just crawl under my pig and confirm that there are 4 TREs so I'll just show my usual ignorance and throw the list out here.

If you go with the 555 tie rod ends are any further modifications required or are they plug and play? I vaguely recall upgrading my 4Runner ends years ago but had to go with a larger relay rod.


part Img
Part No.:45046-69035
END,TIE ROD
Replaced by: 45046-60H00
Remove
$64.071$64.07
part Img
Part No.:04453-60020
ARM
Replaced by: 04453-60021
Remove
$222.721$222.72
part Img
Part No.:45045-69015
END SUB ASSY
Replaced by: 45045-60H00
Remove
$64.071$64.07
part Img
Part No.:45046-69025
END,TIE ROD
Replaced by: 45046-60H03
Remove
$83.151$83.15
part Img
Part No.:45046-69055
END,TIE ROD
Replaced by: 45046-60H02
Remove
$67.651$67.65

The center arm shaft was not available by itself but was available in a rather expensive rebuild kit listed above as "arm".

NLA Shaft:
45422SHAFT, CENTER ARM
45422-60020

Arm "kit" listed above:

45420KARM KIT, STEERING CENTER
04453-60020
 
The 555 tie rods are made in Japan and are really good quality. I've never had an issue with them.


Cruiser Outfitters has the 555 in kit form with all 4 TRE and they have a center arm rebuild kit too.
 
The 555 tie rods are made in Japan and are really good quality. I've never had an issue with them.


Cruiser Outfitters has the 555 in kit form with all 4 TRE and they have a center arm rebuild kit too.

Very glad I asked. That saves mucho dinero. Thanks!
 
After searching through a myriad of photos looking for something "calendar worthy" and coming up empty I asked my BIL to pull the pig out of the shop and take some photos. 123 photos later I thought I would share a couple.

06DC6F15-48B4-46CD-96DF-D08AF75C1A2D.jpeg


444D269B-4790-4839-9416-A3DCE726D42D.jpeg


B2E18AF9-DF51-4BBC-906D-CED442382E05.jpeg
 
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