A one banana mechanic tackles the head gasket....couple questions

[inkpot]

#1cylinder looks very clean compared to the other 5. I’m guessing you had a water/coolant leak there.

 

[LOOKman]

Isnt it the back side of number 6 cylinder the problem area?

 

[Red Merle]

Isnt it the back side of number 6 cylinder the problem area?

I think that is the most common, but I have seen other leaks, some internal to the coolant passages that were tricky to diagnose and then some just burn a hole through the gasket at number 6. Seems like a mixed bag that nobody has ever been able to completely explain. The EGR pipe theory does seem to have merit though.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

#1cylinder looks very clean compared to the other 5. I’m guessing you had a water/coolant leak there.

Isnt it the back side of number 6 cylinder the problem area?

I think that is the most common, but I have seen other leaks, some internal to the coolant passages that were tricky to diagnose and then some just burn a hole through the gasket at number 6. Seems like a mixed bag that nobody has ever been able to completely explain. The EGR pipe theory does seem to have merit though.

@inkpot wins it! It was the number one cylinder. But after reading a ton on mud and from those smarter than myself, I feel there is merit to the #6 cylinder and egr pipe theory.

I'd like to know if its the original head gasket. Can anyone tell?

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Decided to get the throttle body honed too after reading @NLXTACY build thread...just hope it doesn't cause over heating issues!!

?

 

[NLXTACY]

You are soooo screwed now

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I did not pull the wire harness out thru the firewall. Not necessary. Consider doing the following as you wish:

1) Pesky Heater Hose or its bypass. Look on Mud.

2) Rebuild head ( with stems guides, stem seals new valves and springs)

3) All vacuum lines with silicone lines. Easier if you take the upper half of then intake clamshell off. While there replace fuel filter. A lot easier to do with more access.

4) my block also had original hone marks at 248K. I left it alone. I think yours looks good

5) check squirt on your injectors using break cleaner and a battery. If good just replace orings and gaskets. If not get the rebuilt.

6) Cover the injector wire harness with heat shield tape. Especially where harness transitions from firewall to engine under EGR. This is a weak spot that can melt your harness.

7) I would replace water pump, fan clutch, front crank seal, oil pump front and rear gaskets, and dizzy oring.

8) timing chain slippers if you open front cover. Need to drop oil pans 1 and 2. Some earlier versions of slippers were known to fail. They were improved. Replace timing chain if off spec. They rarely are. Depends how long you want to keep your truck. Check that the belt tensioner holds and squirts oil.

9) I would also replace thermostat and inspect oil cooler and replace its gasket.

10) cooling hoses. Especially those at the firewall behind head. Quite easy if you have head off.

I did not use the DVD. The FSM is very well detailed.

Could not agree more. Take your time.

Get a good torque wrench. Especially for the head bolts.

If you take harmonic balancer, make sure you torque it 305 ft/bs?? If you do not your oil pump will not work and likely fry your motor.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Sounds good. The motor mounts can be replaced with the block in place. The mount under the transmission is also called an “engine isolator” so there would be three to replace. They are old and, i’m sure, show cracks around the perimeter of the rubber portion.

Do all that your wallet allows now while you have access that you don’t with all components in place.

Tip: when replacing the forward motor mounts, put a 2x4 between your floor jack and the FRONT of the oil pan and off to one side a bit. When you jack the motor up the offset jack will lift and tilt that side up a bit making it easier to remove and replace the isolator. Then switch sides.

I've finally gotten some work done. Heads, injectors and intake are back from the shop and now I'm cleaning up the block and engine bay.

I checked the motor mounts per @baldilocks suggestion and @Kernal tips but they look pretty good.

 

[baldilocks]

I've finally gotten some work done. Heads, injectors and intake are back from the shop and now I'm cleaning up the block and engine bay.

I checked the motor mounts per @baldilocks suggestion and @Kernal tips but they look pretty good.

View attachment 1752974

View attachment 1752975

View attachment 1752976

I didnt see any cracks in the photos but is hard to tell if they have ever been replaced. I’ve had motor mounts rear in half twice over the years and it’s not a good thing if you ounon a trip.

The “engine isolators”, three of them, are not all that expensive from Toyota.

 

[Dave 2000]

Just replaced mine, they did not ' look' too bad either...until I took them out!

See post 498 of my long running thread.

My LC 80 thread.

Regards

Dave

 

[ajax1]

I used to when pulling the chain tensior drill the hole out on it like one or two drill sizes bigger, will get tension on chain quicker helping with rattle

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Mild status update. Decided to order more parts to replace a few things.

Ordered @NLXTACY blue hub fan clutch
Replaced fuel filter
Replacing ALL rubber coolant and water lines, every single one!
Replacing water pump and thermostat, both OEM
Rebuilding oil cooler
Replacing small power steering hoses
Replacing rear coolant hoses
New injector connectors
Rebuilt injectors
New magnaflow cat and down pipe
New plugs

Gromments and pcv valve are still new.

What do you all think of this pic? Something to worry about? Its where my Water Pump goes. I'm concerned about the corrosion.

 

[SmokingRocks]

are you seeing corrosion like that anywhere else? oil cooler.. coolant passages? if not I would clean it and not worry.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Didn't see any corrosion in the oil cooler or oil passages. The oil cooler did have a layer of rust in it which I'm grinding off with a dremel.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Hey all another update. Got the head back on, put in the new water pump, thermostat, and rebuilt the oil cooler.

Takes awhile for me because work often gets in the way.

One thing I forgot to do was put in sone sealant on the block up near the timing chain per the FSM. Did I screw it up? Should I go back and redo it?

Torquing the head wasn't too bad. Just follow the FSM.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Here are a few other pics

 

[White Stripe]

I would probably put the sealant on b4 you get too far. You'll probably be OK as is, but not worth just leaving it. That is my opinion. Also, if you have the head port and polished, you should see a significant power increase.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

I've been hacking away at this project for quite awhile now. I seem to only get a couple hours a week on it. After some frustrating evenings I did decide to slow down and take my time....its not my cruisers fault I only have two or three hours a week.

But progress has been made:

Out with the old and in with the new!

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

My next question to you all is what's the easiest way to put in the pph? I have a feeling I should have done it before I put in the upper Plenium.

Here is where I'm at:

 

[baldilocks]

When I did a HG three years ago I installed the phh on the work bench. I rolled that rig and when base lining my next and current 80 I eliminated the phh and the steel pipe and routed a piece of gates heater hose from the head directly to the new heater valve. This is not an uncommon practice.