A one banana mechanic tackles the head gasket....couple questions (1 Viewer)

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SteelHunterFJ80

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Hello all, so for the second repair ever on my truck I am diving deep into the Head Gasket repair. I am actually looking forward to it as its a great way for me to learn about my engine, cooling system etc. One of the reasons I got and LC was to learn and be able to maintain it myself.:)

I have been searching the forum dozens of times to gather tips and tricks and "while you in there's" but I have a couple questions.

I read in one post that you can disconnect the ECU in the cab to generate enough slack so you don't have to undo so many connectors when removing the intake. Can someone describe this to me, I can't seem to find that post. And once disconnected in the cab, what else do I have to do (remember 1 :banana: mechanic here!). And will this allow me to just set aside the intake?

Second, can anyone tell me how to undo the electrical connectors? I am breaking every other one as I go through.:doh: Speaking of which does anyone have the part number for the electrical connector that goes from the Distributor to the grey connector?

I have just gotten the TB off and if anyone else has any tips they are much appreciated!
 
By undoing the harness in the glove box, you can then pull it through the garment into the engine bay they’re will be five connections to undo and few components to move out of the way , then disconnect all connections through the engine then lay the harness off to the driver side . Clips are realesed with button more then likely you will break some because of the age and heat to them. You can either replace or put dab of rtv on the plug and remate them
 
I have done this project with the same level of knowledge as you, i would do following:
1) get the famous DVD with the instructions
2) get the Toyota Factory Service Manual
3) get into touch with local ih8mud members

Doughs DVD is really helpful, going through every step in the manual was a must for me. When I got into deep trouble then I messaged the local board and the great guys came to rescue.
 
Don't pull all of the wiring unless you already know you have a problem. Just pull the lower intake away with a strap and leave the main wiring harness alone. That is the main thing the video tells you. Don't get into the weeds rebuilding stuff that the FSM says you can rebuild. Just go in with new. Have the head fully serviced and enjoy a new power plant once you get it all back up and running.
 
By undoing the harness in the glove box, you can then pull it through the garment into the engine bay they’re will be five connections to undo and few components to move out of the way , then disconnect all connections through the engine then lay the harness off to the driver side . Clips are realesed with button more then likely you will break some because of the age and heat to them. You can either replace or put dab of rtv on the plug and remate them


Thanks @ajax1 great description...even I can't mess that up. Great idea on the RTV, I will pick some up tomorrow.

I have done this project with the same level of knowledge as you, i would do following:
1) get the famous DVD with the instructions
2) get the Toyota Factory Service Manual
3) get into touch with local ih8mud members

Doughs DVD is really helpful, going through every step in the manual was a must for me. When I got into deep trouble then I messaged the local board and the great guys came to rescue.

Man I knew I should have gotten the DVD! Are you talking about the IdahoDoug one? I did message someone who might have access to it. How much was it again? I can track down the original thread too.

How long did it take you Jorgito? I think I am about 6 to seven hours into it and detaching the fuel lines is my next step.
 
Don't pull all of the wiring unless you already know you have a problem. Just pull the lower intake away with a strap and leave the main wiring harness alone. That is the main thing the video tells you. Don't get into the weeds rebuilding stuff that the FSM says you can rebuild. Just go in with new. Have the head fully serviced and enjoy a new power plant once you get it all back up and running.

Good idea @Red Merle I read your head gasket thread with great interest. The only rebuilding that I will do is new fuel filter, new radiator hoses (really needed new ones) and I am going to get the throttle body bored and honed like @NLXTACY did. Might as well, I have the time and one of the guys Joey recommended is a half hour from my work. Thanks!
 
Thanks @ajax1 great description...even I can't mess that up. Great idea on the RTV, I will pick some up tomorrow.



Man I knew I should have gotten the DVD! Are you talking about the IdahoDoug one? I did message someone who might have access to it. How much was it again? I can track down the original thread too.

How long did it take you Jorgito? I think I am about 6 to seven hours into it and detaching the fuel lines is my next step.
You need Toyota FIPG too.
 
Another quick question. How does the knock sensor connector come apart? It looks like it had a nut in the block but I'm afraid I'll break it.
 
Knock sensor was one of the few parts I broke and had to replace when I did my head gasket. The Idaho Doug CD does have some good tips. The only hard part is placing the fresh head back on the block (without a helper) and torquing the head bolts kinda scared me a bit (amazed they did not snap or strip.
 
Take step back, relax and take your time. Don’t count the hours but the days. Sorry if this is your DD.

It seems that Toyota has as many different types of connectors as there are connections. Oh well, we learn as we go and breaking stuff and making mistakes is part of the journey.

May I suggest replacing power steering hoses and maybe the pump while you have great access along with the flexible trans cooler lines and cleaning all the ground connections in that area. This would also be a great time to replace the motor mounts.

Once the head is off and battery box removed, a whole new world is opened up to you.

Did the HG fail or are you doing it as preventive maintenance?
 
Thanks @ajax1 great description...even I can't mess that up. Great idea on the RTV, I will pick some up tomorrow.



Man I knew I should have gotten the DVD! Are you talking about the IdahoDoug one? I did message someone who might have access to it. How much was it again? I can track down the original thread too.

How long did it take you Jorgito? I think I am about 6 to seven hours into it and detaching the fuel lines is my next step.
My pace was very very slow, I had the car in the garage for two or three months. I am talking about IdahoDoug DVD yes.
 
Take step back, relax and take your time. Don’t count the hours but the days. Sorry if this is your DD.

Oh well, we learn as we go and breaking stuff and making mistakes is part of the journey.

May I suggest replacing power steering hoses and maybe the pump while you have great access along with the flexible trans cooler lines and cleaning all the ground connections in that area. This would also be a great time to replace the motor mounts.

Did the HG fail or are you doing it as preventive maintenance?


Great tips @baldilocks...your right take my time and do it right. I decided to slow down a ton and take my time. As I go through the steps I'm checking the quality of tge parts and replacing the fuel filter, radiator hoses, PCV was just replaced, get the throttle body bored and honed, replacing most of the connectors, rebuilding the injectors, and gromets.

I do already have new power steering hoses done by the PO but I'm not sure about the pump. I'll clean all the grounds for sure...I got the time!

I'm also going to hot tank the intake and oil cooler. Then I'll add a catch can to make sure it stays clean.

I didn't pull the motor so I think out would be too late/tough to do the motor mounts correct?

Lastly I'm doing the head gasket because it blew.
 
Sounds good. The motor mounts can be replaced with the block in place. The mount under the transmission is also called an “engine isolator” so there would be three to replace. They are old and, i’m sure, show cracks around the perimeter of the rubber portion.

Do all that your wallet allows now while you have access that you don’t with all components in place.

Tip: when replacing the forward motor mounts, put a 2x4 between your floor jack and the FRONT of the oil pan and off to one side a bit. When you jack the motor up the offset jack will lift and tilt that side up a bit making it easier to remove and replace the isolator. Then switch sides.
 
And engine hoist is only 200 bucks but saves your back about 15 years. You can sell after project too.
 
Hell I use my engine hoist for many other things, lifting the cab and Bed off my truck , unloading one of those home depot bags of sand out of the bed of my truck.Sometimes I even use it for lifting engines even.Who knew it would good for that.
 
Ok after vacation with family and inlaws and getting buried in work I finally got the head off. What do you all think/see?

The block still has cross hatching but I'm no expert. Curious to what others think.

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Old trick, I always replace the head bolts, take a couple of old ones and cut the heads off, now grind a slot in the ends. Clean up and install the studs loosely in the block, now drop your gasket on, you will find it is now easier to slide the head on, the gasket stays in place, now simply use a screwdriver to remove your guide studs.

Regards

Dave
 
How's the block deck look?
When i just did mine i had some pitting that i could have probably thrown on a gasket and called good, but ended up doing a full build after decking the head and block.
I was also a :banana: maybe :banana::banana: mechanic before but spending hours reading on here and using the FSM and THINKING through i was able to do a full engine build and am now driving it daily.

Pull the old gasket and snap some photos of underneath. Rule of thumb is if you can catch your nail in it, probably needs to be decked.
 
Good progress, I'm sure it feels good to be near the turning point of going from pulling things apart to putting things back together.

Only tidbit that I'll add, which I didn't see mentioned above, is that you should replace the head bolts with new / OE for the reinstall.
 

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