Builds My LC 80 thread. (1 Viewer)

[Dave 2000]

'Tanque' the 80's nickname which is Spanish for Tank, hit 23 year's old today! Coinciding with one of my daughter's birthdays, how weird is that?

Anyway, I have decided to put the temperature sensor for the PWM controller in the bottom hose. A couple of reasons, first the tube already fitted in the bottom hose with the fan and overheat warning switches has not given me any problems since fitting.

I had also spent considerable time getting the switch temperature selection to work perfectly with the thermostat, which unusually is also in the bottom hose, oem thermostat opens around 74 C and is fully open by 90 C, so my base settings are already established.

Another point is the top connection to the head is too small to put a sensor in.

I will start looking for a temperature switch with a 16mm x 1.5 thread, the PWM controller programming allows me to select a lower setting, so the sensor value is not as important as was getting the MK VIII fan switching right, I will update when I have found the switch and carried out some testing.

Thanks for following,

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Final update before the new year.

Well a set back at the moment with the cooling fan. It is common knowledge I am not a lover of electronics in vehicles that venture off road but, I also like efficiency and proper AC temperatures. Unfortunately electronics unless proven will add complexity, so testing the new PWM controller and sensors in the kitchen (as you do) is the norm for me.......and I found a problem.

I was trying to program the variable speed fan setting to coincide with the thermostat opening and closing action. Remember the 80 thermostat is in the lower hose, so when it opens the water coming in will already have passed through the radiator, the incoming water temperature will decide if the thermostat closes and has to later reopen or, if I get it right, open enough and allow the coolant through and maintain a steadier temperature. if the temperature climbs then the thermostat opens a little more, and the cooling fan increases its speed.

So for example, the thermostat opens around 74'C and is fully open by 90'C, I can now control the fan speed from 25% thru to 75%, if the temperature passes my 75% setting the controller selects maximum speed. The PWM does prevent the big 'hit' on the electrical system experienced by relay systems. Don't get me wrong, if you use decent relays, and have an alternator up to snuff then no big deal.

So to my problem, after the arrival of my new fan switch I had set up my 'test bed', as usual in an effort to only post accurate data to MUD members, I used two thermometers again as per the tests over the last couple of years, one an accurate mercury type for wine making, and a digital food tester type to back it up. All was good and testing about to begin, water had only reached 30'C when a call from a friend meant leaving the house. Everything was wired up to go and the controller was in 'motor running' mode. Cooker switched off and I left and returned a couple of hours later............the fan was running!

In theory the controller would have only seen a temperature of 30'C and falling as I left so should not be on, further checking showed the battery had also taken a caning. The controller has the ability to use a pre set programme for a GM sensor or a generic type, I had left the setting for a GM sensor so an error on my part however, ohm readings show they are similar throughout the temperature range, the only real difference is the sensor body thread.

So at the moment the jury is out whether I screwed up the controller or it has simply been confused by my sensor choice, I reckon probably the former, I am working with the designer/manufacturer at the moment to work it out.

The add on circuit I soldered up to make the dashboard LED's did not work, neither did the second, third or fourth!

Encumbered by hands designed around a shovel, along with poor eye sight my soldering attempts suck big time, I am truly out of my depth (read tosser) with complicated electronics.

So, waiting on the PWM supplier to tell me the controller is FUBAR leaves the project on hold until the new year.

Which brings me nicely around to wish everyone:

A Happy and Prosperous New Year!

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

So an update and some progress on the PWM fan controller for the engine and AC cooling fan is due.

The supplier of the PWM controller after asking me to carry out some tests on it after the problems mentioned the previous post, he has declared it faulty, my attempts to change from a GM sensor to a generic type (to suit my present sensor tube) it seems were not in error. A new unit was tested and promptly dispatched from the USA, can't beat the customer service you guys get over there.

Anyway, the new controller arrived after a couple of weeks and I have spent a week on and off testing it with the generic sensor and all is good. Followers may recall the original tube that goes in the lower radiator hose holding the sensors has three threaded hoIes, I could have had a simple sensor capable of detecting two different temperatures to control the now defunct and no longer available two speed Lincoln fan, I had chosen two seperate sensors to allow some redundancy, the third hole was to hold a sensor to detect potential overheating. The original overheat sensor is still in place, it has never been called upon but will be tested before being put back into service . Today I purchased a second identical generic fan control sensor and fitted that in the tube alongside the one mentioned earlier and tested them side by side, both work perfectly. The PWM controller has a sensor failure detection circuit, if the sensor fails or a cable breaks the fan defaults to full speed. Sensor failure is the single most common reason I see in the workshop for the fan failing to start and engines overheating, the second sensor being installed permanently in the sensor tube allows me to open the hood and simply swap to the alternate sensor if the first one fails, its calibration already confirmed.

The dashboard LED driver circuitry is being slightly modified to detect the fans action when it starts at its slowest speed of 25%, to bring on the green LED, the amber LED will light up in conjunction with the AC activation and will indicate 50% fan speed, with the fan and shroud now covering all of the radiator and hence the AC condenser, the fan had already proved its worth when used with the AC, I expect to at least maintain or perhaps improve performance in that area, I am looking at wiring in some post shut down cooling as well.

Once I am happy all is working including the new OE thermostat, and the new cooling pipes to the turbocharger are fitted then I will refit the radiator, this along with a new timing belt will conclude the preventive maintenance for this year........well until I think of something else

I will update when the 80 is back together, the annual inspection will need to be carried out as the last one has expired, I may need to have some welding done, I will see what the inspector says. I may have some fan performance updates as well.

Thanks for following.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update time.

The PWM controller continues to work perfectly with the Mercedes fan on the test bench however, trying to get a circuit constructed that could interface with the PWM and would switch on my already installed dashboard LED solidly, from a supply that fluctuates between on and off has been at best, a trial. With help from a very patient electronics forum member, and my ham fisted efforts today I finally had that Eureka moment!

I won't go into how bloody laborious it was unsoldering this, moving something that, and getting my electronic tech speak arse about face, it is finally done!

The green LED will light up even if the fan comes on at it's lowest speed, the air direction mods I made if working correctly should prevent the need for the fan at speeds of around 80 MPH but I know even if it shows the slightest inclination to come in, which incidentally does happen on an 80, the VC fan coming back in at high speed. So with the new toy I can trim the PWM on/off settings a lot closer than the normal radiator fan switch in fact to the degree, the PWM controller is that accurate! I will be able program the controller to work in conjunction with the thermostat, so no test/adjust/test of settings which takes ages to get right.

Apart from the advantage of being able to replace the electric fan very easily (the OE Lincoln unit NLA), there will be less sudden load on the charging system, there will also be less load on the battery during post shut down cooling. As the PWM controller needs a 12v supply to provide that post shut down cooling, I am sourcing a programmable timer to get around that issue.

I will update once all is wired and installed, just waiting to fit new parts as they come in that have to be fitted while the radiator is out.

Thanks for following,

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update.

Waiting on new OEM parts for this year's PM.

Motor mounts, all coolant rubber hoses including to turbo charger cooling supply, the crossover metal pipe also part of the turbo cooling had started to rust so that has also been ordered. New thermostat and gasket, timing belt, tensioner, tensioner spring, and other odds and ends. I still need to drill out a bolt in the exhaust manifold, it was rusted in place and broke when changing a cracked heat shield, some play has also been adjusted out of the steering box, nothing major but done all the same.

The PWM controlled Mercedes engine cooling fan, along with my home built signal converter to keep my dashboard warning lights operational is finally complete, the reliability testing carried out over the last month has gone very well but yet to be tested in anger.

Whilst waiting for engine parts to arrive, the full length roof rack has been moved to a friend's workshop to have some mods done. The awning purchased last year is in a prime place to be ripped off or at least damaged when pushing through thick bush and low hanging trees so steps have been taken to protect it. Across the front of the rack was an alloy wind deflector, having driven with and without it, the effect on motorway fuel consumption has to be seen to be believed, this was completely removed and a new one made of steel, this new version extends outside of the rack width on the awning side, and with strengthening gussets protects the awning. There is a semi circle cutout in the deflector that allows the 2nd spare wheel to nestle a little further forward on the rack, thus giving room for the sand ladders to move slight forward, this helps when folding the tent closed and stops the material getting snagged. The sand ladders have always been held in place by long studding extending from the rack lower cross braces, the rearmost studs were long enough to also pass through the holes of the 60" Hi lift Jack. This did work OK however, I also had safety chains on when on tarmac but the rattling drove me nuts, removing the chains reduced a lot of noise when on the trail but, the sand ladders were still difficult to pull down tight due to distortion over years of use. This whole caboodle is to be replaced by an industrial grade slotted rail, larger screw down nuts with larger wings to make winding down by hand easier and offering greater clamping force. The 2nd spare has always been strapped and chained in place in the past, this is to be replaced by a convex screw down 'cap" that will trap the wheel centre, the screw mechanism again with large handles making the tightening/releasing operation easier. The Jerry cans will no longer be chained in place, a purpose built 2 x 20 litre locking cradle has been purchased, this will be welded directly to the rack. The new RTT weather cover was too small........don't ask, so a new one is being made. The jury is still out as to the solar panel fitment, get back to you with that.

All transmission oils were changed just before the last trip in October, and engine oil changed a short while after, no doubt the engine oil and filter will be done again before the next trip. If....and I mean if all goes well 'Tanque' will be trail ready around the 3rd week of April, fingers crossed.

Thanks all for reading and following.

Regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

Hi Dave.

hope things are going well. coming back to this whole emissions testing thing, I don't know if you caught this interesting idea on another thread a little while back, from a chap in Uruguay here?

I am assuming that blocking the 3-way T piece down to the fuel pump from the manifold was "the trick" that some people do sometimes to get past emissions testing, although nobody has actually stated that, it seems to make sense?

chappie has taken it 1 stage further and put an electrical valve in the line, and been using it like that with no problems for better fuel economy for a good amount of time.

I'm curious about long-term use, but more just wanted a "test mode" setting (like my brake lights disconnect for touching pedal when the handbrake fails lol, not needed it yet, but good to have ) so I have installed one of these now, in that vacuum line from manifold to pump.

I found some perfect length and suitably aged-looking vacuum pipes on matey boys scrap Patrol EGR system, and re-routed it to look as stock as possible, see below. I will cover the valve itself with a black plastic cover I've found, so it should disappear visually, pretty much.

valve on rear of R/H battery.

out of manifold - it previously dropped straight under the intake plenum onto the pump

to pump

The valve is normally open so will fail-safe and should revert back to standard if there were an electrical malfunction. I took her for a drive round the block with it operated (shut) and couldnt really notice any difference (I rarely boot her hard anyway) but on stationary testing, the difference in smoke belch from the exhaust between standard and valve closed is very clearly noticeable. ..there's still some smoke, but there is WAY more in standard mode.

just a thought should you have trouble when you get her fixed and to the test station.. the easiest quickest way is obviously a blocked T-piece at the manifold.

what are you thoughts on driving her around like this (apart from test time) people are saying that leaner means lowered EGTs along with better economy, and should be able to cause no harm? what do you think?

kevsta

ps you can also see my recently failed (broken bracket) power steering reservoir repair there. am wondering if I can fit the patrol one there too lol, it's quite similar.

 

[Dave 2000]

Hi Kev, if I understand your pictures and description you have blocked the diaphragm that increases fuel when the turbo starts to boost? If I am correct then you are in effect hiding a problem with the fuel adjustment rod under the diaphragm, ultimately lowering power.

When you 'rev' an engjne from idle in neutral the turbo only starts to spool up for a second or so and then boost pressure falls away, so if closing the boost pipe to the diaphragm reduces smoke in neutral then you have come across a badly adjusted pump. Only when under load can the turbo produce the goods.

Yes re lean running, petrol engines run hot, diesels cooler along with a loss of power, getting the boost versus fuel demand right without an EGT gauge is a little like Russian roulette, too low poor power a little too high and great performance, and just a little higher and you have a melted engjne!

So, in a nutshell, the previous owner (David) or prior to him may have 'tweaked' pump, this would throw the emissions out, fitting the valve will stop the extra fuel being injected but, will hurt on the road performance, any diesel tuning shops on the island?

Regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

Hi Dave. yup, that's what we're doing, just not injecting the extra surge of fuel under acceleration. but lack of power is barely noticeable, thus far anyway, because I suppose I hardly ever really press the throttle, always seem to be trundling about at low-ish revs using as minimum pedal as possible. and of course on a switch, it's back to full fueling in an instant should I want it.

I'm thinking I might run a tank of fuel through it with the valve closed and see if the mpg gain is worthwhile or not. she's averaging around 20mpg these days with muds and rack etc

..diesel tuning shops, none that I know or trust... I will have to take it to one eventually I suppose, prolly need a new set of injectors on it too, as my aluminium rad also masks that hot mis-fire at idle thing it's always had too.

unless you fancy a holiday over here, come adjust my pump for me?

 

[kevsta]

oh and re the static rev, you still haven't done this new ITV emissions test yet have you?

"floor it, until I tell you.." I think the boost prob stays on at max revs until you release the throttle

 

[Dave 2000]

Hi Kev, the turbo spins at idle but at no real speed. I get your thinking that when the engine is revving high in neutral then the turbo must be doing the same, but that is not the case.

Think of it this way, hold your engjne at 3000 RPM for one hour and measure fuel used, now drive in top gear and hold 3000 RPM, now compare fuel used, with no load you have hardly used any fuel, but plenty has been consumed when pushing (and pulling) the 80 along.

In a nutshell, the engine must work to bring the turbo on boost.

Regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

gotchya. be interesting to watch on a boost gauge I suppose, as you say hi boost unlikely, but surely foot to the floor spins it up enough to actuate the pump diaphragm and squirt a big dob of fuel in there once, while being tested?

seems to look like it on the static rev test anyway, wont know for sure what's happening until the next emission test I suppose, but apparently latest EU directive coming through for old diesel testing, will be insisting that they are not just "under 3.0" on the machine, but that they are no higher than brand new spec? I dont see the Animal passing that without some cheating lol

ps 3000revs lol. can tell you have a manual.. only time I hit 3k rpm is test time..

 

[Dave 2000]

Hi mate, yes if you floor the throttle the diaphragm will move enough to inject extra fuel, the reason is the load to spin up the engjne rotating mass, and of course the torque converter and front pump on your auto.

If you watched a boost gauge the needle climbs for a second or so and then drops back to more or less nothing while the engine is revving its heart out.

By the time you hit 3000 rpm in D your around the island and back in your garage!

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

80 update time.

The OE parts are still on the way, held up by an out of stock item....which I found a spare I had in a drawer, I would have cancelled that particular part if I thought it would have speeded up delivery, unfortunately did not find out untol it was too late, s*** happens.

The PWM controller and engine cooling fan has been tested almost to death and still working great. I have finally found a programmable timer, I needed a 'signal off' type, sounds simple enough right, wrong! Most timers for use in 12v vehicles have a switched negative for example, open the car door and then close, the interior light stays on, an earth signal being sent to the lamp assembly. I needed a positive activate signal, then hold a positive signal and be able to switch 10 amps, have spike suppression, and finally be adjustable, and timer period to start when the positive signal is removed.

The timer has one use only, this is to provide post shutdown cooling, the same as my Lincoln fan setup, this worked perfectly but like all modifications, where possible we should try to improve them when we upgrade something. The Lincoln setup was not ignition controlled, so if the engine was hot and then switched off, then the fan was able to come on and run until the water in the lower hose had cooled enough to turn off the fan switch. There is a possibility of coming back to the car and find you have a flat battery, I do have dual batteries and can simply press a button and the engine can be jump started without even opening the bonnet. This situation could have been caused by a faulty relay for example, or a faulty temperature switch. So whilst that scenario did not arise I have elected to remove the possibility altogether.

First, if the engine did get hot enough to bring on the fan it would be at a very slow speed, and only if the temperature continued to rise would the speed increase, and as expected as it cooled the fan would slow and finally stop. Unfortunately the PWM controller needs to be switched on for post cooling to work, obviously not an option. Pressing a button to set off a timed period again is fine if you remember to use it. So the plan is that when switching on the ignition and regardless of engine temperature the timer would activate, this will send a positive supply to the PWM controller, if the engjne is hot enough the fan will start, if not then nothing happens however, the timer with its positive output held on, the PWM is live and ready to control the fan.

Only when the ignition is switched off does the timer activate, now the positive feed is still held on, I am thinking that perhaps five minutes is sufficient? After this period, the timer along with the PWM controller shuts down, everything goes off. There would have to be a failure of both the sensor AND the timer in the same instant to leave me with a flat battery, I would have had to have been a right bastard in my former life for that to happen! As an aside, during post shut down cooling the PWM fan will be running at around 10% of the Lincoln fans first speed, so another plus point.

The previously installed fan shutdown override for wading and when working around the engine bay remains in place, you have to physically lift a switch guard and activate the cut out, so cannot be done by accident, the cut out when activated also flashes an amber LED in the extra dashboard module I fitted.

The sign of a good modification is that it works in a transparent manner, and never gives cause for concern, so far this has been the case with an electric engine cooling fan.

Next update will be with final testing just before installation,.

Thanks for following and reading.

Regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

ok, initial mpg test in "Eco" mode (installed normally-open valve activated - ie closed) on approx 1/2 a tank of fuel, shows 145 miles from 40 Euros (31ish litres) instead of the usual 120 miles, or 3.75 miles per Euro, instead of the usual 3, which is +25% better.

As I rarely press the pedal hard, performance loss is not really noticeable in normal driving, but flooring it on steep hills does reveal the lack of it's usual grunt.. It still revs up, but slower, feels more like you would expect from a non-turbo engine I guess.

I think it is an interesting option if you were facing a 1900+ mile drive (IBZ to Bulgaria for example) and would reduce the cost of fuel required from 630Eu to 510Eu ..as long as you're not towing anything heavy or are super-laden with passengers and weight, where it would then be under-powered.

Today Im wiring a permanent (green-illuminated) push switch in for it.

 

[Dave 2000]

ok, initial mpg test in "Eco" mode (installed normally-open valve activated - ie closed) on approx 1/2 a tank of fuel, shows 145 miles from 40 Euros (31ish litres) instead of the usual 120 miles, or 3.75 miles per Euro, instead of the usual 3, which is +25% better.

As I rarely press the pedal hard, performance loss is not really noticeable in normal driving, but flooring it on steep hills does reveal the lack of it's usual grunt.. It still revs up, but slower, feels more like you would expect from a non-turbo engine I guess.

I think it is an interesting option if you were facing a 1900+ mile drive (IBZ to Bulgaria for example) and would reduce the cost of fuel required from 630Eu to 510Eu ..as long as you're not towing anything heavy or are super-laden with passengers and weight, where it would then be under-powered.

Today Im wiring a permanent (green-illuminated) push switch in for it.

View attachment 1677713

Careful posting up stuff Kev please, someone may think these are my pictures and figures, and then the thread loses continuity and becomes confusing.

First and foremost, no fuel figures tested in this manner are of any value. So many things to skew your findings, everthing from the vague fuel gauge to whether your headlights were on and the engine running, you need to brim, drive, rinse and repeat. Something else, when looking at getting fuel figures, we naturally drive with a lighter foot. As you pointed out, climbing a hill felt like a non turbo motor, you effectively cut off the fuel under load. if you felt you were disciplined enough you could drive gently without bringing in the extra fuel, being auto you should be able to press the throttle gentle enough and let the gearbox get into top by about 30 MPH?

As long as you slipped through the ITV, a good idea mate.

Take it easy, regards

Dsve

 

[Dave 2000]

So, final testing of the cooling fan revealed a problem (whats new?), the fan is powerful enough for me to think its flat out speed would unlikely be called upon however, in my usual anal way OTT testing I needed to know if it would perform ok.

The PWM controller has a protection mode designed in, so in the event a sensor fails, or a cable breaks it switches the fan to run at 100%! So I pulled the connector off the sensor and sure enough the fan ramped up to full speed, its quite an experience to be near one of these things at full tilt. I had only run up to max for five minutes previously, today was the final test, so I went for fifteen minutes at maximum speed, two batteries in parallel maintaining plenty of amps. Test seemed to go well, max amps drawn a tad over 45, this would be right for a 600 watt output. I checked the controller, the timer, the LED converter, the fusing and the 50 amp resettable breaker, all was good until I checked the main cables, they were both very warm. Further checks revealed the positive cable insulation where it meets the breaker was melted.

I had questoned the weight of the main cables, the cable had been supplied with the controller, the seller who in turn had been supplied the plug and pigtails from Mercedes. I am visting MB tomorrow, hopefully they have an alternative cable terminal I can use to fit heavier cable. In general this is all plug and play affair with connections already formed, and only four connections to make, a fifth if you run AC.

Update to follow.

Regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

Careful posting up stuff Kev please, someone may think these are my pictures and figures, and then the thread loses continuity and becomes confusing.

my apologies amigo, I suggested starting my own thread for my many and various mods about 10 pages back but you said "no it's fine / welcome here" type thing.. definitely wouldn't want anyone confusing my mods with yours, yours are much neater

however if they cant tell the difference between "Dave" & "Kevsta" perhaps they deserve some confusion.. but still happy to take my postings elsewhere.. prolly is finally time for my own thread now.

First and foremost, no fuel figures tested in this manner are of any value. So many things to skew your findings, everthing from the vague fuel gauge to whether your headlights were on and the engine running, you need to brim, drive, rinse and repeat. Something else, when looking at getting fuel figures, we naturally drive with a lighter foot. As you pointed out, climbing a hill felt like a non turbo motor, you effectively cut off the fuel under load. if you felt you were disciplined enough you could drive gently without bringing in the extra fuel, being auto you should be able to press the throttle gentle enough and let the gearbox get into top by about 30 MPH?

I get what you are saying, but have to respectfully disagree, the car goes 120 (+/-5) miles for 40Euros, religiously, for the last 2 years pretty much (since rack went on) except now it just went 145. brimming the car and running to empty gives 280miles (+/- 10) previously, and Im pretty certain that will now be 340 +/- 10

my driving is no different, lights are on and off in their normal ratios of day/night driving, and im pretty confident the improvement is seen.

As long as you slipped through the ITV, a good idea mate.

Take it easy, regards

Dsve

this is all since the last ITV where I just scraped through with a 3.05 second-run on the re-test. strictly speaking that's still a fail (over 3) ..will have to wait until next Jan to see if it helps next time. good luck with yours when you get round to it..

 

[Dave 2000]

Yeh, take no notice Kev, it was the fact your post followed mine stating. the next update will be blah blah, and of course the following post showed an update not related to the previous post. You carry on mate, I will think more before opening my mouth, early morning posts should avoided, in partucular when I am carrying a higher than usual blood sugar, makes me a little fractious.

Anyway back to the 80, the statement that you get 120 +/- 5 on 40 eruos religiously for the last two years, would indicate your fuel prices have not altered over that period Kev?

They are up and down here like a pair if whores drawers, I might be moving over afterall

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

OK, re the hot cables. Mercedes sell a variety of terminals to fit the same plug but, they have different thicknesses where the cable crimps in place along with the waterproof grommet.

So the correct terminals are on their way from Germany. I have already discussed the use of a post shut down timer and a converter circuit which allows me to use a static dashboard LED in a pulse width environment, I had been looking for small circuit board project boxes to mount and protect the extra components, I then hit on an idea.

I opened up the PWM controller casing, and sure enough there was enough space to fit them inside. Three of the wires on the PWM conttoller are not needed in my application, so by soldering wires to the contacts inside the PWM case, and cutting the inner terminals leading to the PWM board has achieved a number of things. The first is all three boards are together, so install will be easier, just the one connector powers all three circuits. The connections are internal and soldered in place, the boards are glued down, this will stop them moving about and protect them, this should enhance reliability

Everything has tested out good for the cooling systrm, just waiting on the new paint for the roof rack, mods completed, all new OE engine parts have arrived, on Sunday they will fitted, engine should be back together sometime next week.

Thanks all for reading and folowing.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Today saw the new engine mountings fitted, whilst they appeared ok I did manage to get some 'air' a number of times during some over enthusiastic manouvres a couple of trips back!

Given their age of around 24 years I guessed they would be a little tired, the diesel 6 is a heavy old beast.

My decision to change them was a good call.

No need to worry as the design has a fail safe built in. Complete failure would result in the upper cover (not shown) trapping the remaining half against the chassis mount, even if the opposite mounting failed the mount covers dropping into the 'V' prevents the sump pan hitting the axle.

24 years of weight had caused some compression of the ageing rubber, not easy to see in the next picture but a good 1/4 of an inch each side?

In a recent discussion about Birf identification I mentioned one of mine were original, and it had pink paint on it from the factory, and low and behold the pink appears on the new OE mounts?

Perhaps @beno can shed some light on why some of the heavier components have this marking? I had thought it might be something to do with stock positioning, i.e. spares not expected to be called for on a regular basis put further back in a stockholding situation, purely speculation on my part, but pink has now been seen on axles and gearboxes soooooo?

Removal and fitting is pretty straightforward and the only word of caution I would mention is removal of the lower 17mm nuts. They are part washer, part lock nut, the result is less material to get a socket on, add in their low location exposed to the elements, there is the possibilty of them being very rusty and becoming rounded off, right nut is the upper one and is conventional.

So a good wire brushing off, a pre soak of penetrating oil a couple of days prior along with well fitting sockets will ensure you are able to make this an easy 1 job taking around an hour and a half including a stop for a cup of tea, typical Londoner!

Regards

Dave