Builds A New 55 Owner Intro (cgn1976 thread) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cgn1976
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- #302
they came with the truck but look pretty new. No clue if OEM or not. They do have the red end for the center dist wire, so they look the part, but i really don't know.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
I would be tempted to send the carb to JimC (not sure I have that reference correct?) to have it rebuilt just to know it was done.
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- #304
Well that's one item I'm actually pretty confident in. I had Mark rebuild it as soon as I got it. I guess I shouldn't assume everyone remembers all 16 pages of the thread.
I also put in a new vacuum advance dizzy with pertonix from him a few months ago. Left the oem coil and new looking wires that were in it. Did new spark plugs, and desmogged it because the unit with all the vacuum lines attached was not working anyway. Did a new voltage regulator. Think that's everything I did that would relate to how it runs.
Been running smooth as silk until a few weeks ago. It's colder here for sure and this thing lived in an air conditioned/heated life the last 7 or 8 years in a showroom so I wonder if all the new temp cycles have anything to do with this.
Like I said, I'm getting black spot splotches on the concrete from the exhaust and it's getting steadily worse. My guess is the valve seals are leaking so I was already planning to do that very soon. Could the oil that's slipping through be getting so bad it's causing any of this? I'm guessing no but it's clearly burning more than gas!
Gonna fiddle a little bit today. Gonna warm it up and pull the vacuum plugs and see if anything changes, then maybe play with the timing a little. Maybe pull the spark plugs and see what they look like. 1000 miles they should still look pretty good I'd think. Keep ya posted and thanks for all the help.
Don’t assume something didn’t make its way past your filter and plugged a passage in the carb but before you give Mark a call you can do a few things first. Get a few cans of carb cleaner or brake clean and with the engine warm and running spray around the base of the carburetor and listen for a change in engine RPM, might have to repeat a few times but we are checking for a vacuum leak at the base of the carb and the RPM’s will change if it sucks in the cleaner. It the carb base checks out good repeat around the intake runners at the head. Next locate your fuel filter and if it’s clear look to see if it has a fine rust sediment sitting in it, if it’s a steel filter remove the filter and shake it out over a paper towel and again look for a fine rust sediment.
Pull the spark plugs post pictures.
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- #306
Was thinking I might replace the fuel filter. Metal unit. Not exactly new looking
Yes do that, grab a couple clear filters and the spray carb cleaner at the parts store.
Shake that old filter over the paper towels so we have an idea what’s inside. Pig fuel tanks are known for being rusty on the inside and will continue to give you grief if not addressed.
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- #308
Just had a chance to tinker for a few minutes and she's running like sewing machine again! Essentially just looked in the carb and checked on the vacuum plugs on the carb and tweaked the timing a little. Carb looked clean from what I could see, and the window looks clean and clear as can be. No carb cleaner on me so I didn't get to try the seal test as described, but the one plug on it was allowing a little air through it. Fixed that and ran it. Clunky for a minute or two, then I pulled out of the neighborhood and what do ya know, back to where it always was! It is 60 degrees today and she seems to like the warmer temp helped for sure. Gonna still pull the spark plugs and post pics in a bit, but it sure felt nice to run so good again! More to come
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Simple 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
My 2F always ran like crap in the cold until it was warmed up to 180*. I used to have to feather the throttle for about 10 minutes until it was warm enough to idle.
During the summer it always ran its best. I summed it up to the Rochester 2 barrel putting just more balled-up fuel than the 7:1 compressioned engine could handle.
During the summer it always ran its best. I summed it up to the Rochester 2 barrel putting just more balled-up fuel than the 7:1 compressioned engine could handle.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Told you it was the carb........kidding. 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Told you it was the carb........kidding.
Tried going back to an Aisin carb without much luck. Discovered that it’s a one barrel carb with a vacuum secondary. Which is fine as long as the secondary diaphragm is good. Otherwise you drive around pouring 150 cfs to it, defining the term “gutless wonder”.
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- #313
Compared to the 1950s Rochester that came with it, the Aisin I have on there is pretty good. Mark said it was a later year replacement and in great shape but I have no basis of comparison. Isn't the gutless factor of the F engines the charm?
gotta go slow to catch all them looks!
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RUSH55
SILVER Star
Isn't the gutless factor of the F engines the charm?
It’s an acquired taste
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- #315
Just swapped out the fuel filter. Here's what came out. Could be worse, but not exactly clean and clear! No clue how long this one was on there.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Yeah, that’ll cause some issues
That looks to me a lot and worthy of a tank boil out.
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- #318
What's the move?
I assume you say boil out because replacement tanks aren't a readily available option. Searched a little and didn't see much.
Well, I think a boil out and maybe put in a coating to seal the rust if the tank isn't rusted through might be cheaper. There are no new FJ55 OEM tanks that I know of, so either aftermarket big tank ($) or a used rusted OEM tank. I'd work with what you have and use a clear fuel filter then monitor the filter for crud.
