A decade in the making. (1 Viewer)

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Got it pretty tight.

No luck. Voltage in the middle of the gauge, battery light still on.

Honestly I know that the higher mileage trucks have to be kept up, but I spent an hour on the terminal and it set me back 4 hours for the rest of the night.

I know id regret it but part of me says just offload the cruiser, tundra and land rover and get a van and be miserable and boring, but looking out the window every day knowing I cant commit time and money to any of them for a few more weeks or months kills me, and we are loading our pilot with miles and it isnt paid off yet....

rant over, still discouraged.
Carry on.
 
Well here’s a thought.
Could i possibly have a bad tensioner, which is causing the battery light to come on? As seen here I had uneven wear on my old pulley.
How can I accurately test my tensioner?
 
Other things..i have some new 70 series wheels that i have an extra set of tires I want to put on them.
Don’t think they have the valve stems, I’m guessing I need to go on partsouq and hope I can find them for this wheel? Or will any Toyota valve stem work?
 
Other things..i have some new 70 series wheels that i have an extra set of tires I want to put on them.
Don’t think they have the valve stems, I’m guessing I need to go on partsouq and hope I can find them for this wheel? Or will any Toyota valve stem work?
Are they split rims? If so, they use inner tubes. Remember them? If not, then any tire shop stems should work. I've never even thought about it and just taken my rims to the tire shop and asked them to mount them. I do also make a point of asking them to change the valve stems. I have gotten OEM toyota metal valve stems on new OEM rims. They are very nice. Found one on my desk. Here are some photos.
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I've never actually bothered using them.
 
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Are they split rims? If so, they use inner tubes. Remember them? If not, then any tire shop stems should work. I've never even thought about it and just taken my rims to the tire shop and asked them to mount them. I do also make a point of asking them to change the valve stems. I have seen OEM toyota metal valve stems on new OEM rims. They are very nice.
These are actually the grey 70 series ones you were kind enough to pass on to me. Finally finding a use for them!!
 
These are actually the grey 70 series ones you were kind enough to pass on to me. Finally finding a use for them!!
I'm so glad! They were very nice rims. Standard rubber stems from any tire shop will work just fine. I think the one on my desk is one that I took off those rims. Regretfully I don't know where the set is.
 
I'm so glad! They were very nice rims. Standard rubber stems from any tire shop will work just fine. I think the one on my desk is one that I took off those rims. Regretfully I don't know where the set is.
awesome, OK. That makes one less thing I need to order.
 
Getting ready to order another alternator so i can put it in when i do the PS pump replacement.
I found the Denso 210-0565 mentioned on here, adn found it on amazon. Doesn't have many reviews and the ones it has are 90% 1 star due to the unit dying after a few months. Perhaps that is what happened with the reman denso i have in there now.
Does anyone have an idea if this is a worthwhile part or not?
 
Shameless bump because I need insight regarding this denso 100 amp mentioned above.
 
Sorry D21; no special insight. I will say that my 100 is having some trouble with the used, low mileage Lexus 470 alternator I got from a wrecker. Next time I think I will go to Rock Auto or some other large, reputable parts house.
 
Have you inspected the alternator brushes? Take off the heat shield and three screws to take a peak. It pops right out and a new OEM one is cheap.
I had this thought. Any reason to believe OEM brushes wouldn't be compatible with a Denso reman alternator? I have one in there currently
 
I had this thought. Any reason to believe OEM brushes wouldn't be compatible with a Denso reman alternator? I have one in there currently
Doubt it. How did the old one look? Isn’t there uncertainty of what a remanufactured alternator actually means? Brushes could have been changed yet diodes left alone.
 
NSTR besides me telling my wife every time there seems to be a break in the calendar that im going to fix the cruiser.
Never happens. Parts are piled up. I did start disassembling, so im an hour into the repair. Drained coolant, removed radiator hoses and snapped the heads off the bots on the bottom of the radiator bracket due to rust.
Sweet.
 
NSTR besides me telling my wife every time there seems to be a break in the calendar that im going to fix the cruiser.
Never happens. Parts are piled up. I did start disassembling, so im an hour into the repair. Drained coolant, removed radiator hoses and snapped the heads off the bots on the bottom of the radiator bracket due to rust.
Sweet.
sounds like your having a good time
 
Have you checked your charging system wiring? Might be a good idea with all the issues you've been having.
 
Have you checked your charging system wiring? Might be a good idea with all the issues you've been having.
I have not checked the wiring, I figured the alternators were going bad because they were defective/ PS fluid leaking into them....whenever I get the job done im keeping the denso reman I put in back in March or whenever and having it rebuilt with OEM toyota pieces, after I take it and have it bench tested.
 
Wonder if there’s a way to affix these crossbars onto a 100:

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Made some headway today, sort of.
Got the hoses off the power steering reservoir, had to cut the band clamp or whatever it’s called:

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Side I was able to remove without cutting. Guessing these have never been replaced…or it’s been 150k miles and 10 years…
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90% done removing radiator but now I’m stuck, the through bolt or whatever it is is seemingly fused together.

Has anyone else experienced this and if so how on earth did you get it off? No space for disc grinder or hacksaw

 
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