Builds A 60 Runs through it… (17 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

48640C8B-29C4-4D62-A39F-0D370F6914B6.jpeg

Play on the front drive shaft at ride height.
 
That’s too long. That will bottom out and break something.
 
That’s too long. That will bottom out and break something.
I was going to flex test with the forklift. I’d like to see more play for sure. When lifting the front of the 60 til the wheels came off the ground the distance only extended by an inch.
 
It would be pretty safe to have the shaft at about the middle of it’s travel at ride height. You likely need a longer slip shaft though. I know I do.
 
It would be pretty safe to have the shaft at about the middle of it’s travel at ride height. You likely need a longer slip shaft though. I know I do.
How long do you figure?
 
Measure the driveshaft travel the same way you measure for shocks. Full compression/droop and measure distances between transfer and pinion flanges.
Why did you get a driveshaft made without doing this?
 
We did measure and did give the builder the numbers he requested. We will flex test it with the forklift again with the shaft installed to see where it sits and move from there. On initial install and the measurments we got before it looks like we might be ok. The builder may not have shortened it the one inch we told him we were moving the axle back.
 
Last edited:
We did measure and did give the builder the numbers he requested. We will flex test it with the forklift again with the shaft installed to see where it sits and move from there. On initial install and the measurments we got before it looks like we might be ok. The builder may not have shortened it the one inch we told him we were moving the axle back.
I told Ken we were going to move axle back an inch and I’m sure he forgot. He also forgot the DC joint the first time. Great guy just busy. Said he’d take care of any issues for free.
 
Pulling this info into the thread about Bilstein shocks since they have changed some of their numbers and gave us a little confusion until we figured it out.

This is info I dug up on pirate about Bilstein 7100 series part numbering.

...was looking at the 7100 series for the front
Part# AK7114-SB-(XX) which is 19.5 compressed 33.34 extended

(Valving options)
01- 150/50
02- 175/60
03- 180/75
04- 255/70
05- 275/78
06- 360/80

The part number all stays the same:

AK7114-SB-(XX)

AK= the series, 71XX = 7100 and XX is the travel length so 14 for 14" travel, 12 for 12" travel, 10 for 10" travel, SB = short body, Then (xx):

basically all they did was add a "0" to their numbers. I've also seen the Compression listed first on many sites so just know that the bigger number is Rebound and the lesser number is Compression when you are searching.

These are the new numbers:

XX - Rebound/Compression

01- 1500/500
02- 1750/600
03- 1800/750
04- 2550/700
05- 2750/780
06- 3600/800
99 - custom valving option.

Right now there is a 4-6 week leadtime on custom valving. After talking to Jason this morning it sounds like he'll move forward with the stiffest factory option of "06" = 3600/800

So his part number will be AK7114-SB-06 for the front and AK7112-SB-06 for the rear.
 
Last edited:
You can add Part # AK7110SB99 to the list which is 400/100 valving.
 
Just to clarify the "99" will indicate the custom valving option only. The orderer will need to specify what the valving wanted is. To get the same thing now one would request 4000 rebound and 1000 compression.
 
I like the sound of those 3600/800’s. @boots4 that’s what you run now too right?
 
Just to clarify the "99" will indicate the custom valving option only. The orderer will need to specify what the valving wanted is. To get the same thing now one would request 4000 rebound and 1000 compression.
Good to know. I was wondering why the numbering looked odd.
 
I like the sound of those 3600/800’s. @boots4 that’s what you run now too right?

So, using the new numbers I run 4000/800 up front and 3600/800 at the rear. If I were to do it again I'd like to try stiffer in the rear so either a 4000/800 or a 4000/1000 valving combo.
 
Hojack, thanks for that prop info. what are you using for the adapter fittings for the in/outlets to convert to inverted? Any part numbers and what are the p/n for your flex hoses to the prop? Thanks.
 
Hojack, thanks for that prop info. what are you using for the adapter fittings for the in/outlets to convert to inverted? Any part numbers and what are the p/n for your flex hoses to the prop? Thanks.
There is a oil and filter shop I went to and transferred everything to 3AN. Don’t have part numbers. Cut and flared the Toyota brake lines and used adapter to go to 3AN from there to proportioning valve and to master cylinder.
C1CEA956-87B4-4E86-9681-A1CA6D3E95E2.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Did you figure out your vacuum issue?
Went to Napa today and will put on tomorrow to test this.
5BC520E2-7FEB-49BE-9767-AB2A18129FD2.jpeg

ok, I see what you mean. I'll get some brake lines made and see if I can make my own without any flex hoses and order a new prop valve. Thanks.
Here is my list of parts for the brake lines.
8422C383-43C4-492C-B5AF-78E693028E37.jpeg

Went to Superior Offroad and picked up my Trail Gear 2” wheel spacers. My daughter Harlee-10 really wants to go have fun wheeling in the 60. She wants Snowball when she’s able to drive. May have to start another 60 project for the kiddos.
832F99B9-2231-4765-9C98-53EA91F6F815.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom