A 60 guy’s first 40, lichen & rust - 1969
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
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On your exhaust manifold, I would gut the heat riser and just add a block off plate. They're hard to refurb and get working properly, and if it doesn't work you can cook/crack the intake manifold. Kurt sells them at Cruiser Outfitters. I put one in mine, worked great.
cruiserteq.com
Heat Riser Block Off Plate - Fits 1969 - 1/1975 3-Bolt Style 4x Applications (EGEXHRPE)
Toyota Land Cruiser Heat Riser Block Off Plate
cruiserteq.com
- Thread starter
- #43
On your exhaust manifold, I would gut the heat riser and just add a block off plate. They're hard to refurb and get working properly, and if it doesn't work you can cook/crack the intake manifold. Kurt sells them at Cruiser Outfitters. I put one in mine, worked great.
Heat Riser Block Off Plate - Fits 1969 - 1/1975 3-Bolt Style 4x Applications (EGEXHRPE)
Toyota Land Cruiser Heat Riser Block Off Plate
Thanks for all the photos. I’m about 785% smarter now.
And yes, block off plate for sure. I’ve done that on my 60s.
Jim here’s some key info I put together awhile ago. Hope this helps! Thank you again for your support at SAS!
forum.ih8mud.com
CCOT has the floor pans.
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER FJ-40 series Ignition Switch and Door Lock info
This information pertains to 1958-9/1972 TOYOTA FJ-40 series models ignition switch and door locks. I’ve spent several hours researching TOYOTA keys, door locks and ignitions. I went to 2 different old school local locksmiths in VA and both cut 4 keys each. TOYOTA serial numbers are from...
forum.ih8mud.com
CCOT has the floor pans.
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These are pics from my ancient microfiche set I got from a local Toyota dealer in the early '80's. This set covers the US and Canadian markets for the period 03/69 to 07/80. This concerns post #39, item#3 and the radiator shroud. Shown is the part numbers for the shroud through the years. The p/n's with the asterisk denotes an old p/n with super ceded p/n in parentheses. Maybe someone else can confirm, but it looks like you may be able to use a shroud well past your '69 build.
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- #46
Thanks for this! I’m planning on pushing forward with this 40 when the new motor and diffs are in my 60 … hopefully in the next 4-8 weeks.
My plan was a little long and involved before running it, stuff like replacing all the hoses and vac lines. I think I’m going to remove the spark plugs, let some Marvel oil sit in the cylinders for a few weeks while I rebuild the carb, put it back together and fire it. If it goes, I’m driving it around the block. If it goes around the block, I’m gonna go to the DMV.
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- Thread starter
- #47
Wow big step today. Pulled the spark plugs and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders to soak. Sparks plugs came out easy and don’t look half bad. I sat and stared at the engine bay for a while assessing its immediate needs: new battery, carb rebuild and throttle cable installed, fuel and vac advance lines connected, radiator installed and may as well put in new coolant hoses, belts. The largest glaring issue is the state of the wiring. It’s all so crunchy and missing behind the B-pillar. No fusible link. Big cable from battery to starter, and the rest of the harness is attached to the starter (as a junction point) via a really wimpy ring terminal. I’m convincing myself I need to scratch build a full harness. I should tally up what connectors I’ll need so I can start hunting for those - or suitable replacements. All in time…
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Checkout Coolermans website. He should have most everything you need, along with wiring diagrams.
- Thread starter
- #49
Oh yeah, I’ve definitely visited his site this past week haha.
The alternative is sourcing brand new connectors that are different than the old ones. For example just go through Sumitomo’s catalog and make choices. It wouldn’t look original, so I’m inclined to go with what OEM stuff that’s still available from Toyota, the rest from Coolerman, and use Sumitomo for whatever the first two sources can’t provide. Still an undertaking measuring all the wire runs and recreating the harness though. And then stuffing it through the firewall, etc. I’m good with electrical work, but this job just seems annoying.
To that end Coolerman sells partial wiring harnesses that I could use, but where’s the fun in that? I can order all new OEM Yazaki wiring from a source I have in Japan and roll my own. Save $250 and be really annoyed for a week - sounds like a blast!
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks! Maybe I’ll make the drive to Iowa to visit some relatives graves and hop over to your place. Kidding. I will certainly take you up on the offer in the form of photos at some point. Interesting that there was no fusible link too. I’ll have to cook something up for that. Protection is good even if it doesn’t look stock.
- Thread starter
- #52
Action:
I’m going to put the cooling system back together. I saw this place rebuilds water pumps and was thinking that would be a good idea. I think I’m also going to splurge on some Coolerman harness sections to speed the process along.
Let’s get this thing operational by springtime, eh?
I’m going to put the cooling system back together. I saw this place rebuilds water pumps and was thinking that would be a good idea. I think I’m also going to splurge on some Coolerman harness sections to speed the process along.
Let’s get this thing operational by springtime, eh?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Going by your tail lights you have a very early 69 production if not a 68 production FJ40. What month and year does the VIN show it being built ? That carburetor is a 1970 model at the very earliest. It's a two barrel but does not have the stud out of the top. 69 model started out as a one barrel than switched a two barrel carburator with the stud used for wit the air cleaner. 69 was the last year a hand throttle mounted on the dash. 10/69. Start of the 70 has clearance lights on the side not reflectors. Which type of bumpers were on the hood. Most your pictures are loading for me. 9/67 when the 68 model started the bumpers were taller for the windshield wiper change. Late 68 early 69 they changed to a two lever pad. Information on this change light rail lights and hub caps is hard to come by.Over the past 5 months I’ve squirreled away a few parts. As I’ve learned 1969 was a weird year with three different carbs, two different manifold setups, and two air cleaners. I have the later intake manifold for a 2bbl so I picked the better of the two 2bbls offered that year and hunted it down. From @pardion.
I picked up a really nice rear heater locally. On the way out here my buddy and I arranged some stuff I found for him to pick up - a pair of long rear seats again from @pardion.
- Thread starter
- #54
Frame number correlates with a 1968 build according to the info on the Heritage Museum website, so I suspect this thing is a bit of a mutt and not as 100% original as I thought.
I’m familiar with the 1969 three-carburetor/two-intake madness, and mine came with the large runner, four-stud intake for the dual barrel carbs. Since it came with a Rochester carb I decided to take my pick of the two 2bbl carbs offered that year and chose the later one that ran from 9/69 through I think early 70 or 71. From there I got an appropriate air intake for the carb. I still need to find the correct carb spacer for that setup.
Did the hub caps change in there? I thought the acorns were well gone by 68/69 and the hub caps were the ones that look like the ones you can still get from Toyota.
Here’s the hood bumper:
Hopefully that photo loads for you.
- Thread starter
- #55
Fwiw the engine number correlates to early 69. VIN tag matches the frame. Title says 69, but you know how that goes - sometimes they can be a little off +/-1 year.
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- #58
I have the intake that started in 3/69 and went through the end of the year (larger runner intake), and the carb that started in 9/69 and went through I believe 71. If you have that spacer, I’d love to buy it!
- Thread starter
- #59
Unfortunately I don’t have the door jamb plate. The area where it would be is suspiciously painted a different color, but there’s no sign of rivet holes. They weren’t even filled in, I got my had all the way around behind there and the metal has always been intact. That’s kind of a head scratcher for me - no rivet holes, but the exact size and shape of a VIN plate is painted differently.
So, since I only have the tag in the engine bay … no date.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Month and date are early to do find from 1964 on. As far as I know the one SOR posted years ago is the original that all other are based on. It's linked in the 45 section in the sticky tracking the lwb trucks. The VIN for early month is for the 1st.
@timmyisinthewell do you happen to have any microfiche that cover pre 3/69. It would probably have changer dates for certain parts during 68-69. Beside tail lights, hood bumpers and hub cap there is driveshaft flanges, ball and claw to Birfield and inner axle axle shaft from coarse to fine spline. When I join mud I was really interested in the FJ25 and early FJ40s. I have microfiche covers these. Some how I ended up with two 1967 FJ55 microfiche. One covers only 67 while the other covers FJ55 from 1967 thru later years. Not sure if it follows thru 7/80. Since I do not have an FJ55 I haven't looked that close. A microfiche cover the FJ40 61 thru 3/69 would be a valuable tool dating pre 3/69 change dates.
@timmyisinthewell do you happen to have any microfiche that cover pre 3/69. It would probably have changer dates for certain parts during 68-69. Beside tail lights, hood bumpers and hub cap there is driveshaft flanges, ball and claw to Birfield and inner axle axle shaft from coarse to fine spline. When I join mud I was really interested in the FJ25 and early FJ40s. I have microfiche covers these. Some how I ended up with two 1967 FJ55 microfiche. One covers only 67 while the other covers FJ55 from 1967 thru later years. Not sure if it follows thru 7/80. Since I do not have an FJ55 I haven't looked that close. A microfiche cover the FJ40 61 thru 3/69 would be a valuable tool dating pre 3/69 change dates.
