1969 40 wiring block issues (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 5, 2022
Threads
4
Messages
52
Location
Kalispell MT 59901
Hello All
I’m having an issue with my wiring blocks. They were so corroded that one of them was separated from the fender well and the blinker connection was detached and just floating.
I ordered new blocks and replaced all connectors. Previously did not have working blinkers but pretty sure that’s due to the blinker switch on the column as it only clicks on when switched to the right. Did replace the stock blinkers with some aftermarket led’s, that’s the black and white wires in the picture. Now I have no headlights or park lights.
Anything I’m missing?
Also PO did some of his own wiring as well.
Here are some before and after pictures
IMG_7210.jpeg
IMG_7208.jpeg
IMG_7084.jpeg
IMG_7086.jpeg
 
I'll ad my response to your previous post in another thread.

Typically the white wire with a black stripes are grounds. You should start by checking component grounds. In your case, the 1 blinker problem is most likely the flasher and the led turns. The led's don't pull enuff amps to activate to 40's old mechanical type flasher, so it clicks once. Using a flasher for led's or an electronic flasher which senses lower amp draw is required. I would check the grounds on the other fixtures that are not working. Most fixtures use their mounting hardware to the body or frame as grounds which eventually creates poor connections. I usually add ground wires to the fixtures body and connect the wire to the frame. A continuity/test light is helpful in tracing electrical issues. You can find wiring diagrams on Coolermans website.

 
You should pull every plug apart and clean both sides of the unit. Look carefully at the wire below the connection; corrosion often crawls under the insulation and eats the wire next to crimp connection.

A wire tracer can be handy besides a VOM.

I have rebuilt many of my switches over the years. Taking them apart cleaning the contacts, epoxy filling the burnt away board, adjusting the spring.... Go to a wrecking yard and get a bunch of switches - take them apart to see how they work. Bend tabs as little as possible to get them apart. You can cut can crimps in like 5 places and peel them open - pound them closed and seal with silicon good as knew.
 
I'll ad my response to your previous post in another thread.

I'll ad my response to your previous post in another thread.
Thank you for the input. Today I am starting bye rewiring the grounds from the headlights and park lights to the frame.
Also I did not mention that I also have no dash light or interior light. Is the interior light somehow connected to the headlights as well?
 
Idk about early 40s, but I think so. The contacts inside the switch can get corroded. The light knob is probably like a rehostat and controls gauge lights. I sometimes cycle the light knob in and out till the lights start working again. I probably should take it apart.
 
I am confident I have the lights grounded well, I have continuity at all the posts on the wiring blocks except the headlights? Also double checking all fuses and found the one under the cowl to be toasted. But that shouldn’t affect the headlights/running lights. That’s just for the hazards from what I can tell from the wiring diagram.
I just don’t understand I literally re wired with new connections replaced the wiring blocks and put everything back to the way it was. Everything but the blinkers were working fine until I replaced the above items because they looked horrible. I guess I should stick with the motto if it’s not broke don’t fix it.
 
A heat gun for those heat shrink connectors!
Yeah I’m waiting until I troubleshoot my issues until I completely seal everything.
Wish I would’ve waited to do the factory wires, there’s not much left to work with once I cut the connections. Just in case there’s a miss crimp somewhere I won’t have enough to cut again.
 
I was able to get my lights working again, the fuse under the cowl was blown so when I tried to pull it out of the fuse holder the plastic cover crumbled to pieces, pretty sure it was there from the factory and had never been replaced. Wired in a two prong fuse holder and that seemed to work.
Now I’m dealing with another wiring issue I have no power when ignition switch is on. No headlights or park as well but they would turn even if the ignition wasn’t on.
I’ve got a lot of problems from the p.o. He had proffits swap in a 3FE out of a donor 62 and the wiring behind the ignition/headlight switch is ugly! Not sure what the jumper wire soldered on the light switch is doing? Any ideas?

IMG_7360.jpeg


IMG_7359.jpeg
 
The wiring on your ignition switch looks corroded and ready to fail. I would address that for sure.

I would take this as an opportunity to refresh that ignition switch at the same time: OEM TOYOTA Japan Spec. Early In-Dash Ignition Switch & Key Lock Cylinder Comes w/ OEM YAZAKI Service Spec. Connector Pig Tail Kit w/ Solid Brass Terminals FJ25 FJ40 / FJ45 Pickup 1956-1972 - VintageTEqParts.com - https://vintageteqparts.com/products/nos-early-in-dash-ignition-switch-key-lock-cylinder-comes-w-oem-yazaki-service-spec-connector-solid-brass-terminals-kit

I see something vampire tapped onto one of the headlight wires (yellow plastic connector). That will fail eventually too - might as well deal with that while you're at it.

The jumper wire on the switch is factory. You can get new OEM switches.
 
Thanks for your help!
Figured that would be a good place to start with the ignition wire. Yes I will cut that wire clamp out of there when I wire up the new switch. I ordered a new light switch as well while I’m in there might as well change it. Wouldn’t have guessed that small soldered jumper wire would be factory but I see it in the picture on the new switch.
That is a great link, lots of parts, I wouldn’t have know where to look.
Thanks again!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom