A 200 is meant to have 37’s (6 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

What's everyone's plan to deal with aftermarket front/rear bumpers and sliders with a body lift?

Really tall bulb-style trim to cover the gap?

 

[MTKID]

I appreciate the clarity. I thought the 3/4” body lift was one that did not require the radiator drop or modification to steering input shaft modification. I have been doing a lot of research as I prep for suspension refresh and mods with the intent of moving up to 37s when my 35s were out and must have missed those details.

Does the 1/2” body lift avoid the radiator drop and steering modification? These two mods and any modification to my hidden winch mount, while still gaining additional clearance would be ideal.

I agree & believe the 3/4” doesn’t require any steering modifications (similarly, everyone seems to agree the 1” won’t require steering modifications either). However, I can’t speak for the radiator drop bracket on 3/4”. On a previous Land Cruiser (I think it was my 80), 1” would clear the fan while sitting flat, but when articulated off-road, things would flex and I had it hit. So, I wouldn’t necessarily rely on just if it clears while sitting flat on a shop floor. Best to either move it or cut a moon shape from the bottom of the shroud, IMO.

 

[Heckraiser]

What's everyone's plan to deal with aftermarket front/rear bumpers and sliders with a body lift?

My plan is to continue to beat up my plasticware until the BL is installed and then worry about bumpers afterwards. If I get an off-the-shelf bumper, I'll just adjust the plastic trimming accordingly. I have also seen from another MUDder with a BL that the dissent front bumper has basically a full inch of adjustability built into it. More likely I'll custom fab a bumper or bash bar to maximize approach/departure with the higher bodywork. As for sliders, they're just going to ride an inch below the rockers for now since I have AHC. For non-AHC folks, white knuckle sells a slider already designed around a 1" BL. Very forward thinking of them since the lift doesn't exist commercially

 

[teejnut]

My plan is to continue to beat up my plasticware until the BL is installed and then worry about bumpers afterwards. If I get an off-the-shelf bumper, I'll just adjust the plastic trimming accordingly. I have also seen from another MUDder with a BL that the dissent front bumper has basically a full inch of adjustability built into it. More likely I'll custom fab a bumper or bash bar to maximize approach/departure with the higher bodywork. As for sliders, they're just going to ride an inch below the rockers for now since I have AHC. For non-AHC folks, white knuckle sells a slider already designed around a 1" BL. Very forward thinking of them since the lift doesn't exist commercially

That's good to know White Knuckle sells a slider to accommodate a body lift. They're somewhat local to me and I'm pretty sure I can flip my Slee Sliders and get White Knuckle for close to the same $. Assuming I get rid of AHC...

Really tall bulb-style trim to cover the gap?

Not a big fan of the bulb-style trim but yes that's what I was thinking too.

 

[nwfl4runner]

I've been rocking the 1" lift without any steering mods for over a year. I wouldn't, however, do any lift without either cutting the fan shroud or a radiator drop. Just not worth the risk.

 

[linuxgod]

I assume the slip joint in the steering shaft is there to allow for movement when the body and frame bounce around at different rates. How confident is everyone that there's sufficient extra length that losing 1" won't cause the shaft to pop apart while bouncing around on a trail (or worse, during an evasive maneuver on the highway with a lot of body lean/roll)?

 

[nwfl4runner]

I assume the slip joint in the steering shaft is there to allow for movement when the body and frame bounce around at different rates. How confident is everyone that there's sufficient extra length that losing 1" won't cause the shaft to pop apart while bouncing around on a trail (or worse, during an evasive maneuver on the highway with a lot of body lean/roll)?

Ran it on hells, top of the world, and fins last year at Moab and gonna hit some new ones this year - I didn’t have any issues

 

[CreeperSleeper]

In for 1" kit whenever it's ready

@MTKID I am also in for a 1" kit... No hurry on my end.

 

[DrivenLyfe]

I agree & believe the 3/4” doesn’t require any steering modifications (similarly, everyone seems to agree the 1” won’t require steering modifications either). However, I can’t speak for the radiator drop bracket on 3/4”. On a previous Land Cruiser (I think it was my 80), 1” would clear the fan while sitting flat, but when articulated off-road, things would flex and I had it hit. So, I wouldn’t necessarily rely on just if it clears while sitting flat on a shop floor. Best to either move it or cut a moon shape from the bottom of the shroud, IMO.

Thank you for the info and clarity. Game for a 1” whenever ready

 

[MTKID]

Revision 1.0 3d printed for testing

We’re pretty sure we can get back down to 1/4” thick material now and eliminate the ear we wanted to use to prevent the radiator from racking or moving sideways.

So on to revision 2.0 next week. If anyone has any questions or sees any possible issues, please don’t hesitate to mention them.

 

[tbisaacs]

Revision 1.0 3d printed for testing
View attachment 3583772

We’re pretty sure we can get back down to 1/4” thick material now and eliminate the ear we wanted to use to prevent the radiator from racking or moving sideways.

So on to revision 2.0 next week.

So stoked that you are doing this!

 

[MTKID]

Version 2.0 3d printed and this should be the final thickness. .27”

We want to machine these from aluminum so we don’t have to coat them. Then stainless countersunk hardware on both sides. This will require enough movement to push the radiator back to slide the bracket in, then the bolt, but I can do that on my vehicle without hitting the fan. You can tighten this bolt through the original bolt hole with an allen wrench.
Stainless washer & nylock nut on the second bolt from the front. Won’t be easy without a nut-grip (Koken ) or magnetic socket for the bottom two, but we’ll try it without to see how much frustration this could cause. A little amount of anti-seize will be provided and recommended.
Anyone opposed to this overall bracket solution? Materials chosen?
If not, we’ll do the first set in aluminum for final test fitting next week. Then the first install the following week.
Thanks for tuning in and giving feedback

 

[nwfl4runner]

looks amazing - I’d consider spin nuts for folks with factory bumpers as it was a pain trying to get the washer and nut through the frame on the bottom 2 holes, and I had great access with the dissent bumper. Avoiding stud since it’s aluminum?

Absolutely awesome!!

 

[MTKID]

looks amazing - I’d consider spin nuts for folks with factory bumpers as it was a pain trying to get the washer and nut through the frame on the bottom 2 holes, and I had great access with the dissent bumper. Avoiding stud since it’s aluminum?

Absolutely awesome!!

I’ll check into a spin nut. I like that idea. Hopefully they’re available in stainless as well.

How about using a flange nut and skipping the washer altogether? A quick search didn’t yield a stainless nylock spin nut, but these are readily available…

Yes, we are avoiding the stud because of choosing the aluminum material. Thanks for the suggestions and support

 

[YellowJacket]

Version 2.0 3d printed and this should be the final thickness. .27”
View attachment 3588012
View attachment 3588013View attachment 3588014
We want to machine these from aluminum so we don’t have to coat them. Then stainless countersunk hardware on both sides. This will require enough movement to push the radiator back to slide the bracket in, then the bolt, but I can do that on my vehicle without hitting the fan. You can tighten this bolt through the original bolt hole with an allen wrench.
Stainless washer & nylock nut on the second bolt from the front. Won’t be easy without a nut-grip (Koken ) or magnetic socket for the bottom two, but we’ll try it without to see how much frustration this could cause. A little amount of anti-seize will be provided and recommended.
Anyone opposed to this overall bracket solution? Materials chosen?
If not, we’ll do the first set in aluminum for final test fitting next week. Then the first install the following week.
Thanks for tuning in and giving feedback

 

[nwfl4runner]

I’ll check into a spin nut. I like that idea. Hopefully they’re available in stainless as well.

How about using a flange nut and skipping the washer altogether? A quick search didn’t yield a stainless nylock spin nut, but these are readily available…
View attachment 3588234

Yes, we are avoiding the stud because of choosing the aluminum material. Thanks for the suggestions and support

This might work? I think you’re right, a flange nut would probably be perfect if the hole is small enough or the flange wide enough

 

[AnyMal]

@MTKID
Suh dude!

Still catching up, but is this new part I need to buy finally going to make me happy?

 

[bloc]

Given the choice I personally will always choose standard steel hardware over stainless due to the galling issues it can present.

But I’m not in the market for these brackets either, just interested in how this is all coming together.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Given the choice I personally will always choose standard steel hardware over stainless due to the galling issues it can present.

But I’m not in the market for these brackets either, just interested in how this is all coming together.

Nickel anti-seize works wonders on stainless, but then again I’m in the anti seize anything that even thinks about looking at me camp

 

[bloc]

Nickel anti-seize works wonders on stainless, but then again I’m in the anti seize anything that even thinks about looking at me camp

Oh I’ve used it, but on some level I still prefer to use materials that don’t have those issues in the first place.