Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (66 Viewers)

[Inukshuk]

Honestly, I was horrified at first when I cut it. It works out for me. The shaft on the tranny is cheap to replace but think how much time you have to engage in repairing it. After I cut it, I installed it to the transfer case before connecting to the chassis. Making sure it works. Mark instructions are so outdated and unclear.

View attachment 3723233

The Marks instructions are cumbersome. No professional technical writer was involved! Hard to translate Australian!
I will post again after I have more discussion with AA. AA is taking my inquiry seriously. The preliminary AA reply includes that they have not had any reports of problems. It would be reassuring if this spline engagement is sufficient.
But, there is room for more. My transmission is sitting on the shop floor. I have a new 2wd shaft arriving Friday. I will cut that one longer.
My A343 shaft extends 55 mm past the mating surface. The 4L65e cut to 151 extends 32 mm past the mating surface.

 

[wiynwiyn]

The Marks instructions are cumbersome. No professional technical writer was involved! Hard to translate Australian!
I will post again after I have more discussion with AA. AA is taking my inquiry seriously. The preliminary AA reply includes that they have not had any reports of problems. It would be reassuring if this spline engagement is sufficient.
But, there is room for more. My transmission is sitting on the shop floor. I have a new 2wd shaft arriving Friday. I will cut that one longer.
My A343 shaft extends 55 mm past the mating surface. The 4L65e cut to 151 extends 32 mm past the mating surface.

Man I’m excited for you once you hear the orgasmic v8 sound for the first time you going to cry in euphoria. I’ve owned Audi, Subaru, Rx7. No one of those cars gave me satisfaction as the 80s. I’ll create a post on my swap once I’m done with my architectural professional exams.

 

[Inukshuk]

Honestly, I was horrified at first when I cut it. It works out for me. The shaft on the tranny is cheap to replace but think how much time you have to engage in repairing it. After I cut it, I installed it to the transfer case before connecting to the chassis. Making sure it works. Mark instructions are so outdated and unclear.

Reporting Back: The old instructions have been removed and replaced with the new ones at 4L60E 6 BOLT TOY L/C-HF2A T/C - https://www.advanceadapters.com/4l60e-6-bolt-toy-lc-hf2a-tc. On that page, click the link for digital download 50-8904A to get instructions dated "22/05/12." That is Australian for May 12, 2022.

Applying the 50-8904A instructions, the cut is made 170 mm measured from the 41 mm thick MFC1103 adapter (which converts the 6-bolt to 4-bolt pattern). Measured from the face of the bare 6 bolt 4L65e, the cut is made at 211 mm. The 151 measurement is no more.

The end result will be 51 mm of the spline adapter shaft (when fully slid onto the output shaft) sticking past the adapter mating surface.

 

[highharrison]

I am not sure if the 3F-E tach is the same as the 1FZ-FE tach but if you have a pot to adjust, then it probably should work.

The SwapTime MCM just worked with my 1996 LX450 tach...just the RPM was wrong. I didn't adjust anything with the SwapTime MCM itself.

I only adjusted the tach pot to correct for the differences in pulses/rev.

The SwapTime MCM does need to have a working canbus to the GM ECM.



The Swaptime Muscle Car module should output a 12V tach pulse natively (2 pulses/rev). A pullup resistor shouldn't be needed.

However, if it is a weak 12V signal for some reason, a 12V pull up resistor might help. I recall that there is an actual resistor inline in the SwapTime wiring. This could be missing, incorrectly soldered, or incorrectly sized.

The only way to really tell is put the MCM tach signal on a oscilloscope, which most people don't have access to.

Did some more digging on this forum and came across people saying the older tachs don't work the same, but you can just jump 2 terminals on it for it to work.

This Video explains it for the Dakota Digital setup, but the mod got mine to work with the Swaptime MCM. Still need to play with the pot on the back to get it tuned in, but it saved me having to buy a different tach!

 

[NeverFinis]

Did some more digging on this forum and came across people saying the older tachs don't work the same, but you can just jump 2 terminals on it for it to work.

This Video explains it for the Dakota Digital setup, but the mod got mine to work with the Swaptime MCM. Still need to play with the pot on the back to get it tuned in, but it saved me having to buy a different tach!

FYI: the original credit for the resistor bypass goes to ZFAWA. I think he is the original.

It allows +5V pulses to be accepted by the Toyota Tach, which expects +12V pulses.

As you see in one of my posts on this subject, quoted below, I do mention that you either have to use a pull-up resistor to raise a +5V pulse signal to a +12V pulse signal or by pass that resistor. I am not sure why you need to bypass that resistor with your MCM... I am wondering if you are missing that resistor on its harness.

It is a lot of information to digest...

But, great news that you got it working!

Yep, I think some GM ECMs output a +5V tach signal, rather than +12V signal our tachs expect . Either use a pull-up resistor (GM recommends starting with 5K) needs to be used, and/or that resistor on the tach needs to be bypassed. I don't think a Dakota box for the tach is needed at all. I am using a GSS-3000 so my transmission dash lights work.

 

[goranvolvo]

Did some more digging on this forum and came across people saying the older tachs don't work the same, but you can just jump 2 terminals on it for it to work.

This Video explains it for the Dakota Digital setup, but the mod got mine to work with the Swaptime MCM. Still need to play with the pot on the back to get it tuned in, but it saved me having to buy a different tach!

with LS swap you will need dakota digital converter and it will not work with 1991-1993 tachometer i did my swap long time ago so i forgot bunch of stuff but if i remember right something to do high vs low frequency signal
wht i did i swaped just the tachometer for 1994-1997 and used dakota digital converter go get it working

 

[NeverFinis]

with LS swap you will need dakota digital converter and it will not work with 1991-1993 tachometer i did my swap long time ago so i forgot bunch of stuff but if i remember right something to do high vs low frequency signal
wht i did i swaped just the tachometer for 1994-1997 and used dakota digital converter go get it working

Just to update you because things have moved along since your swap.

A Dakota Digital SGI-100BT Tach Converter isn't needed. One less thing to buy, and one less thing to go wrong.

1. The FZJ80 Toyota Tach can be adjusted to accept signals from 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines.
   • The onboard POT is used to match frequency.
2. The Toyota Tach can be adjusted to accept +5V frequency pulses, instead of +12V frequency pulses.
   • Bypass the resistor (I linked to the video earlier)
     • This resistor is 1/2 of a voltage divider. The Toyota tach converts external 12V ->5V internally. This resistor bypass eliminates the voltage divider.
   • Or use a 5K (or less) pull up resistor to pull up the pulse to +12V that our Tach needs.

In addition, some GM ECMs, like the E38, can be tuned to output different +5V pulse frequencies to match the tach. Just do #2 above.

I am using an E78 ECM, which outputs the tach signal only on the canbus. In my case, I needed something to convert from canbus to old school analog +12V frequency pulse. This is why I am using SwapTimes Muscle Car Module (MCM). It does other things, like Park/Neutral/Drive, Air Conditioning, etc.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Truly pleased with cruisermatts Ac adapters. Very easy to install and looks high quality. I would recommend it.

 

[MMaxim]

Thank you for posting this. Is there a way to push the hose towards the engine the way it is shown on the picture below? I have a second battery where the hose wants to go.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Thank you for posting this. Is there a way to push the hose towards the engine the way it is shown on the picture below? I have a second battery where the hose wants to go.

View attachment 3730439

Yes. I haven’t have the time to clean it up. I will probably use a bracket to tie it down. I’ll share new photos later.

 

[MMaxim]

Thank you! Looking forward to the pictures.

 

[NeverFinis]

Thank you for posting this. Is there a way to push the hose towards the engine the way it is shown on the picture below? I have a second battery where the hose wants to go.

View attachment 3730439

I have @cruisermatt AC lines and a second battery box being used as my primary battery. That line can be moved and shifted underneath the battery box. It is tight but works. Hard to take photos because it is below the LS air intake and below the battery box but I can see if I can get some photos later.

The best way to do it is to take a factory hard line from the condenser and cut it off after it passes through the firewall radiator support and have someone crimp/solder on an A/C line.

 

[cruisermatt]

If there is a change to make to the kit I am 100% open to making change. Maybe making the fitting off the compressor a 90 instead of a 45 and adding a few inches of length to the hose?

 

[NeverFinis]

This is what my A/C looks line. It is the hose with the loom cover next to the low rad hose. I used the loom to protect it going through the radiator support, and for abrasion resistance against the body underneath the battery tray.

 

[wiynwiyn]

If there is a change to make to the kit I am 100% open to making change. Maybe making the fitting off the compressor a 90 instead of a 45 and adding a few inches of length to the hose?

A few inches to the upper hose would be real nice. It was a little difficult to connect the fittings but not too hard. Initially I was thinking about having a shop fabricate these ac hoses, however too much time and $$, so i'm glad matt has it.

 

[MMaxim]

This is what my A/C looks line. It is the hose with the loom cover next to the low rad hose. I used the loom to protect it going through the radiator support, and for abrasion resistance against the body underneath the battery tray.

View attachment 3730525

Thank you.

 

[MMaxim]

If there is a change to make to the kit I am 100% open to making change. Maybe making the fitting off the compressor a 90 instead of a 45 and adding a few inches of length to the hose?

I am wondering if this changes will make it fit better with OEM airbox and the second battery:
- 90* elbow right at the fire wall and 90* elbow at the the compressor and additional ~4-5" of hose for the low pressure hose
- 90* elbow at the compressor and additional ~4-5" of for the high pressure side.

 

[cruisermatt]

A few inches to the upper hose would be real nice. It was a little difficult to connect the fittings but not too hard. Initially I was thinking about having a shop fabricate these ac hoses, however too much time and $$, so i'm glad matt has it.

I just looked at my pictures again on desktop. You have the low pressure (large) hose in backwards. Try flipping it around so both charge fittings are at the compressor and you’ll find it a lot easier to install. Did you look at the pictures on my website or in this thread?

 

[NeverFinis]

Oh, @wiynwiyn does have his low pressure line reversed! Good eye Matt!

Compressor

Evaporator

Condenser

 

[wiynwiyn]

You guys are awesome. thanks. Evening after a ten hours day work, I messed up. By the way on your ls swap, before you guys tighten the bolts. Always hand tightened them first. I stripped a couple of holes because it's an older car and some of the holes are rusty. Also, "Never" buy cheap chinese header bolts. I stripped one cylinder head hole and had to rethread. Matt's ac bolts fit precisely.