8x Series V8 Swaps (14 Viewers)

[NeverFinis]

Yeah what is that thing? Does it work with no-one pressing on the pedal? To get all the fluid out of the master I would think one or two pumps is required. Beats my check valve on the drain line method if it works.

It allows you to pressurize the brake system and push fluid out at the calipers/lspv, one line at a time. No brake pedal pumping required.

I used a similar one for another of my cars that was being painful to bleed, worth every cent. Pressurize system, bleed at each caliper as per usual bleed, depressurize and replace cap.

Awesome tool to have. Looks like that one has a universal clamping reservoir lid, very cool.

This one is specific to Toyota, with an o-ring seal. It may work on other makes, but I don't know. I have the Power Brake Bleeder as well, and it isn't as good or as easy to use.

Power Probe BA10 ADAPTER TOYOTA SMALL | eBay

ADAPTER, TOYOTA SMALL.

www.ebay.com

 

[mattnandie]

Can anyone direct me to a build thread where Torfabs install kit was used on a gen 5 5.3 or 6.2 LT and 8 or 10 speed?

 

[McDowra]

What Cold Air Intake do y’all suggest I use to be placed in same area where the original air filter sits on the 92 80 series? Connected to the LS 5.3 , air raid, K&N, rough County?

What did you end up doing?

 

[Tinkertoy]

Can anyone direct me to a build thread where Torfabs install kit was used on a gen 5 5.3 or 6.2 LT and 8 or 10 speed?

Check this build thread: Feldrain Build
Torfab did the swap. I think this was the original LT1 and 10 speed swap from Tor's shop.

 

[mattnandie]

Check this build thread: Feldrain Build
Torfab did the swap. I think this was the original LT1 and 10 speed swap from Tor's shop.

Thank you!

 

[mattnandie]

Thank you!

Check this build thread: Feldrain Build
Torfab did the swap. I think this was the original LT1 and 10 speed swap from Tor's shop.

link didn’t work

 

[Feldrian]

link didn’t work

Mine was the first Gen V LT1 out of Tor's shop, backed by an 8l90e. (saved from scrap link in my sig)

Not a ton of details on the swap itself though, if that's what you're looking for since Tor handled the work.

 

[fourtrax]

i have used this 80 series power bleeder cap for years
Assenmacher TOY18B Toyota Brake Bleeder Adapter - https://tooldom.com/products/toyota-brake-bleeder-adapter?srsltid=AfmBOopVqffBkwZpLLdxaB9uoNHusH3XKP1WVeNmCsPXs-l5ZgC1kJ9MLqw

TOY18B

Tools

asttool.com

 

[LO Bill]

That's definitely something I'll have to look into. Thankfully, they aren't too strict here in Oregon.

Speaking of Oregon .... I have a 96 LC and am considering an LS swap. I did a quick search for relevant Oregon DEQ regs and it seems that for 95 and under, you can swap in anything as long as it passes sniff test. For 96 and later, DEQ only allows swap of motors that were originally available for that vehicle. Anyone here have actual experience with a swap in a 96 or later passing Oregon DEQ (or not)? Thanks!

 

[PIP]

Speaking of Oregon .... I have a 96 LC and am considering an LS swap. I did a quick search for relevant Oregon DEQ regs and it seems that for 95 and under, you can swap in anything as long as it passes sniff test. For 96 and later, DEQ only allows swap of motors that were originally available for that vehicle. Anyone here have actual experience with a swap in a 96 or later passing Oregon DEQ (or not)? Thanks!

I have no problem taking 91-94 80 series with Cummins swaps through Oregon DEQ testing and passing. However, 95-97 they will not pass without an OBDII port. You may be able to get an LS with full emissions equipment through OBDII testing. I have not tried.

Thankfully 95% of Oregon does not have emissions testing.

 

[NeverFinis]

My Tach journey today....

I bought a Muscle Car Module...does all the things with Gen V ECMs. My ECM, E78, is really a Gen 4.5. The E78 has no tach output via normal signal wire, only via Can Bus.

Plus, the 6L80/90e is a Can-Bus transmission and I need reverse/neutral/park output.

The Muscle Car Module does drive the tach, but the RPMs was higher than expected, not lower. The latter could be corrected with the resistor bypass trick.

From the Installation Doc:

...driving a 12V output at 2 pulses per revolution...

The increased in RPMS didn't make sense to me unless...it was outputting 4 pulses per revolution, not 2.

Then I went back to the Shop page and saw this..

Tachometer Output (4 pulses/ rev) Gen V only

The 6.8K Ω resistor below is what you normally bypass when modifying the tach to receive 2 pulses/rev signal, instead of the factory 3 pulses/rev signal.

The resistor in series with the above is 15K Ω. In essence, one is dropping from ~22K Ω to ~15K Ω when you bypass the 6.8K Ω resistor. I am thinking I might need to replace the 6.8K Ω resistor with something double it size to deal with 4 pulses/rev. There is a POT on the PCB, which I suspect is used for tuning output voltage to fine tune RPM.

 

[AcroSteve]

My Tach journey today....

I bought a Muscle Car Module...does all the things with Gen V ECMs. My ECM, E78, is really a Gen 4.5. The E78 has no tach output via normal signal wire, only via Can Bus.

Plus, the 6L80/90e is a Can-Bus transmission and I need reverse/neutral/park output.

The Muscle Car Module does drive the tach, but the RPMs was higher than expected, not lower. The latter could be corrected with the resistor bypass trick.

From the Installation Doc:


The increased in RPMS didn't make sense to me unless...it was outputting 4 pulses per revolution, not 2.

Then I went back to the Shop page and saw this..



The 6.8K Ω resistor below is what you normally bypass when modifying the tach to receive 2 pulses/rev signal, instead of the factory 3 pulses/rev signal.
View attachment 3533189

The resistor in series with the above is 15K Ω. In essence, one is dropping from ~22K Ω to ~15K Ω when you bypass the 6.8K Ω resistor. I am thinking I might need to replace the 6.8K Ω resistor with something double it size to deal with 4 pulses/rev. There is a POT on the PCB, which I suspect is used for tuning output voltage to fine tune RPM.

Have you asked mitch about it?

I've got the same thing and gages from speedhut, but haven't connected them yet.

 

[NeverFinis]

Have you asked mitch about it?

I've got the same thing and gages from speedhut, but haven't connected them yet.

I sent an email to Mitch yesterday before I posted here. No response just yet.

 

[AcroSteve]

power steering setup on my L8T. Oem pump/reservoir was too high. Had to go with remote reservoir. Sourced on ebay for cheap. Fits Toyota avalon or camry. Pump was from 2021 Express van.

The smaller line is sort of redundant, but it was either block it off at reservoir, or tee.

 

[NeverFinis]

I did some more tachometer sleuthing today.

I believe the resistor that gets bypassed is part of a voltage divider circuit. It reduces the incoming 12V-14V pulses to an acceptable level for the onboard frequency to voltage chip. Tachs just convert Frequency to Voltage.

Obviously, this voltage reduction is an issue if your LS ECM is outputting 5V pulses, which is why that resistor is bypassed. The option is to use a pull up resistor or do both.

I would like to ID the frequency to voltage chip Toyota is using on our tachs (1FZ-FE ). I would have to fully disassemble the tach to identify it because it is between layers. Once I ID it, I can then figure out if it can be modified to accept different timing pulses/rev.

Anyone want to send me their spare working 1FZ-FE tach for testing purposes? I rather not pull mine apart.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I did some more tachometer sleuthing today.

I believe the resistor that gets bypassed is part of a voltage divider circuit. It reduces the incoming 12V-14V pulses to an acceptable level for the onboard frequency to voltage chip. Tachs just convert Frequency to Voltage.

Obviously, this voltage reduction is an issue if your LS ECM is outputting 5V pulses. The option is to use a pull up resistor or do both.

I would like to ID the frequency to voltage chip Toyota is using on our tachs (1FZ-FE ). I would have to fully disassemble the tach to identify it because it is between layers. Once I ID it, I can then figure out if it can be modified to accept different timing pulses/rev.

Anyone want to send me their spare working 1FZ-FE tach for testing purposes? I rather not pull mine apart.

I have a spare 95 cluster if your really up for it.
Tommy

 

[NeverFinis]

I am getting near the end of the wiring.

Reverse Lights (and the R on the dash) now work.
The Starter will now only engage in Park and Neutral and not any other gear.

Both are controlled via CAN Bus through the Swap Time Muscle Car Module.

I rather control the above via CAN Bus than a Dakota Digital GSS-3000. With CAN Bus, I am certain the transmission is in the gear it says it is, while a Dakota Digital GSS-3000 is one stepped removed from the transmission....

I still have do A/C compressor control, fix the tach RPM, and I will probably wire up the remaining dash lights (PND) via Dakota Digital GSS-3000. Oh, and clean up all the wiring, which is not insignificant...

BTW, I just checked and my "D" still works, even after all these years of the truck sitting.

Still to do: Exhaust.

 

[McDowra]

Dakota Digital GSS-3000

Congratulations I wish had known about the module when I did mine, may have to go back and add it. I'm chasing a p0606 code and believe it is a bad ECM or tune not really sure which.

 

[tyjova]

Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question, I feel like I've done nothing but read build threads and watch videos on swaps lately and my brain is fried....

It's come to the point that I'm ready to swap out the old tired 3FE for something that can comfortably and reliably pull up and over mountain passes. It's going to be a pretty long process for me since time is limited, so I'm going to first start by sourcing a motor and then working on refreshing and building that up a bit, and then gather up the other parts needed over time. Is there any general majority "consensus" when it comes to 5.3 vs 6.0 vortecs? Along with that, what about gen 3 vs gen 4? Obviously price is the main difference there, but is the extra cost of the gen 4 worth it? I know the gen 3 has some trickier stuff when it comes to the gas pedal, but it seems like it's relatively straight forward as long as you pull the tac module from the donor too is that correct?

Sorry for what I know is a pretty basic question, just when I feel like I have a solid plan and start to search for motors, I get overwhelmed with info and I feel like it's back to square one since I want to make sure I get everything that is needed. Either way, I'm nervous/excited to begin on this journey!

 

[White Stripe]

Gen 4 is worth it if your utilizing the vvt and a 6 speed automatic. Otherwise gen3 is a cheaper easier option. The bigger the motor the better the low end torque which is important in a cruiser. So go with as big of displacement as you can afford. If you can afford to put a stroker crank in that will really help too.