8x Series V8 Swaps (4 Viewers)

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I went through air care about 4 years ago. I think it was in Broomfield. I initially contacted a referee before I got too far along, then saw the same guy for my actual inspection. Just follow his guidelines.

I just talked to the referee in Broomfield and he basically told me it's not possible. With an OBD2 vehicle you'd have to swap over gas tanks, evap, etc. etc. and he just doesn't think it can be feasibly done. I even mentioned I know people with the same truck who have been through your shop for inspection and he was like, "no, I would remember that." I asked him if there were any recent changes to the rules that made it so difficult and he said no, this is the way it's always been. If his goal was to discourage me, he definitely succeeded. :crybaby:

Any front range folks have thoughts on this development? @ajordan1975 @White Stripe @rockrod
 
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I just talked to the referee in Broomfield and he basically told me it's not possible. With an OBD2 vehicle you'd have to swap over gas tanks, evap, etc. etc. and he just doesn't think it can be feasibly done. I even mentioned I know people with the same truck who have been through your shop for inspection and he was like, "no, I would remember that." I asked him if there were any recent changes to the rules that made it so difficult and he said no, this is the way it's always been. If his goal was to discourage me, he definitely succeeded. :crybaby:

Any front range folks have thoughts on this development? @ajordan1975 @White Stripe @rockrod
Yes, swapping over the gm evap is part of it as well as some fuel tank modifications. Tell him what motor you want to swap and the year range. Then get all the specifics. If he said you need to swap the physical fuel tank ask him what the fuel tank has to do with emissions. Only the gm emissions devices need to be swapped including fuel level sensor and fuel tank pressure sensor, cats, o2 sensors. Ask him to look up the engine and its emissions devices. Tell him parts are becoming difficult to acquire for the toyota motor and you want to swap in something easier to repair and maintain while keeping the vehicle and that your mechanically very capable and just need the guidelines. Might also want to try a different referee if he is like that.
 
Engine Placement.... My current status. LS 6.0 with 6L90 Marks Adapter on the original cross member. The 6L90 tranny does require a few extra steps since the spline count has to be changed. (Thanks to Mosser Engineering...quite affordable.). The 6L90 is 3CM longer than a 6L80. So far, I didn't have to persuade the fire wall since the engine is 3CM forward so far. We tossed on the PS Pump and alternator and the AC compressor. Just curious at this point. How are you guys measuring and placing your engines? RN we are virtually lined up with the front cross member. Though I am curious if I should shift it a little. Each side of the engine is 10-10.25" back from the front cross member. Looking at the drop at full compression...we are 4.25-4.5" from the oilpan tapping the track rod. (Camaro Oil Pan)

For engine mounts, originally I have the Marks, but I had already cut off the stock mounts and so we are fabbing up mounts rn. Also...for clearance under the hood, my alternator has 1" of clearance. we aren't tacked in...thought I would ask as we are still toying with where we will place it.


 
Engine Placement.... My current status. LS 6.0 with 6L90 Marks Adapter on the original cross member. The 6L90 tranny does require a few extra steps since the spline count has to be changed. (Thanks to Mosser Engineering...quite affordable.). The 6L90 is 3CM longer than a 6L80. So far, I didn't have to persuade the fire wall since the engine is 3CM forward so far. We tossed on the PS Pump and alternator and the AC compressor. Just curious at this point. How are you guys measuring and placing your engines? RN we are virtually lined up with the front cross member. Though I am curious if I should shift it a little. Each side of the engine is 10-10.25" back from the front cross member. Looking at the drop at full compression...we are 4.25-4.5" from the oilpan tapping the track rod. (Camaro Oil Pan)

For engine mounts, originally I have the Marks, but I had already cut off the stock mounts and so we are fabbing up mounts rn. Also...for clearance under the hood, my alternator has 1" of clearance. we aren't tacked in...thought I would ask as we are still toying with where we will place it.


@Tinkertoy

How much clearance do you have between the front accessory drive and the radiator?

Also, how much did you have Moser trim off the 6l90e output shaft when it was resplined?
I have a 2WD 6l90e that I need to have resplined and trimmed by Moser. I have to order a 6l90e seal kit too...
 
LQ4 /4L80e
Code P0102 low voltage maf sensor
I have ground,12v, 5v. Across 3 Maf sensors,1 that is new. Cleaned TB front and back. New tps and iac. Have not found any vac leaks and tried 2 different intake set ups.
Idle is 650, surges/lowers when put in reverse.
Hesitation/bogs if I throttle to fast.
No other codes

Stumped.
 
@Tinkertoy

How much clearance do you have between the front accessory drive and the radiator?

Also, how much did you have Moser trim off the 6l90e output shaft when it was resplined?
I have a 2WD 6l90e that I need to have resplined and trimmed by Moser. I have to order a 6l90e seal kit too...
I have the radiator pulled off right now and the engine back out again. With a 6L90 you most likely will not have to persuade the firewall but it will be tight upfront. I plan to go with dual e fans to hopefully same some room.

For Mosser. I had them respline and cut to 96MM. Measure from the transmission per the instructions.
 
LQ4 /4L80e
Code P0102 low voltage maf sensor
I have ground,12v, 5v. Across 3 Maf sensors,1 that is new. Cleaned TB front and back. New tps and iac. Have not found any vac leaks and tried 2 different intake set ups.
Idle is 650, surges/lowers when put in reverse.
Hesitation/bogs if I throttle to fast.
No other codes

Stumped.
That’s the only code? No “pending” codes?

Do you know if the truck is in “limp mode” (3rd gear only)
 
LQ4 /4L80e
Code P0102 low voltage maf sensor
I have ground,12v, 5v. Across 3 Maf sensors,1 that is new. Cleaned TB front and back. New tps and iac. Have not found any vac leaks and tried 2 different intake set ups.
Idle is 650, surges/lowers when put in reverse.
Hesitation/bogs if I throttle to fast.
No other codes

Stumped.
Double check your ecu pins. Sounds like your maf output voltage wire might have an issue.
 
20220807_161919.jpg

Key on I'm getting this resistance from my maf ground wire. Key off its 0. Is this normal?
 
Just going to say, while it does take longer to swap in a v8 than it does to read this 144 page thread it is pretty dang cool when you can drive your 80 again. Took me around 15mo to get it to this point, a bit longer and way more expensive than I hoped but I got there. Just ticked over 70 miles on my swap. Took it for a drive up to Bridger Bowl yesterday morning, still breaking it in. Feels great to be back in the game tho.
tempImageqLsXqk.jpg
 
I just talked to the referee in Broomfield and he basically told me it's not possible. With an OBD2 vehicle you'd have to swap over gas tanks, evap, etc. etc. and he just doesn't think it can be feasibly done. I even mentioned I know people with the same truck who have been through your shop for inspection and he was like, "no, I would remember that." I asked him if there were any recent changes to the rules that made it so difficult and he said no, this is the way it's always been. If his goal was to discourage me, he definitely succeeded. :crybaby:

Any front range folks have thoughts on this development? @ajordan1975 @White Stripe @rockrod
I think the guys was probably being a jerk. I'm in the front range area and doing a 2uz swap on my 80. Last year I spoke with the referee at the Denver Emissions Technical Center and he said he looks at swaps all the time. He said the main thing he is looking for is that the engine is from the same model year or newer as the vehicle it is being put into, that all of the emissions stuff is there and that he can connect with the ECU. He doesn't want to see any codes and all of the emissions stuff has to be from the donor vehicle, or at least made for that vehicle. I then asked him about location of emissions stuff (cats) and he said it needs to be close to the stock location but not exact. I'm getting really close to having my swap done and hope to get it inspected in the next month or so. I'll post up when I'm done to hopefully show that it wasn't that bad. 🤞🤞
 
Hello everyone! I am working on engine swapping my 80 that originally came with the 3FE and A440F combo to a second generation 350 small block Chevy with a cam and Vortec heads. I want to keep this swap simple, so I decided to keep my A440F transmission. I also want to go carbed in the beginning with the introduction of a Holley Sniper EFI system later on when my pockets are a little deeper. With that being said, I have a few questions which are mainly wiring and what to do with my ECM since I will no longer have FI for the time being.
-what all does my ECM control? My transmission is completely hydraulic with a kickdown cable so I doubt much goes there.
-with the carbed V8 can I completely remove my ECM? Since FI system from Toyota is now obsolete and therefore the sensors that go with it such as O2 and air volume sensors.
The only wires going to the engine are going to be the ignition, starter, alternator, and the battery. I have everything needed to make my water temp and oil pressure gauges work. The tach might be another story though…
Anyways here are the obligatory pictures of my 80 as she sits today!

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CA342249-E4E6-46FA-A51B-7E3DA1605FBC.jpeg


0BDC2C34-F929-4526-8EC3-721BE04C4426.jpeg
 
Hello everyone! I am working on engine swapping my 80 that originally came with the 3FE and A440F combo to a second generation 350 small block Chevy with a cam and Vortec heads. I want to keep this swap simple, so I decided to keep my A440F transmission. I also want to go carbed in the beginning with the introduction of a Holley Sniper EFI system later on when my pockets are a little deeper. With that being said, I have a few questions which are mainly wiring and what to do with my ECM since I will no longer have FI for the time being.
-what all does my ECM control? My transmission is completely hydraulic with a kickdown cable so I doubt much goes there.
-with the carbed V8 can I completely remove my ECM? Since FI system from Toyota is now obsolete and therefore the sensors that go with it such as O2 and air volume sensors.
The only wires going to the engine are going to be the ignition, starter, alternator, and the battery. I have everything needed to make my water temp and oil pressure gauges work. The tach might be another story though…
Anyways here are the obligatory pictures of my 80 as she sits today!

View attachment 3083605

View attachment 3083606

View attachment 3083607
Definitely an interesting swap. Hope you make a build thread so we can follow along.
 
Hello everyone! I am working on engine swapping my 80 that originally came with the 3FE and A440F combo to a second generation 350 small block Chevy with a cam and Vortec heads. I want to keep this swap simple, so I decided to keep my A440F transmission. I also want to go carbed in the beginning with the introduction of a Holley Sniper EFI system later on when my pockets are a little deeper. With that being said, I have a few questions which are mainly wiring and what to do with my ECM since I will no longer have FI for the time being.
-what all does my ECM control? My transmission is completely hydraulic with a kickdown cable so I doubt much goes there.
-with the carbed V8 can I completely remove my ECM? Since FI system from Toyota is now obsolete and therefore the sensors that go with it such as O2 and air volume sensors.
The only wires going to the engine are going to be the ignition, starter, alternator, and the battery. I have everything needed to make my water temp and oil pressure gauges work. The tach might be another story though…
Anyways here are the obligatory pictures of my 80 as she sits today!

View attachment 3083605

View attachment 3083606

View attachment 3083607
The short answer, yes. You can remove the ecu. Are you keeping the A440F? Also, You should just go ahead and take the radiator supports, front bumper and grille off. I can't imagine relocating the engine mounts with out having a clear line of sight to make sure things clear, it will also give you the ability to toss the hood back on and see what's clearing from underneath. Just my two cents, I am impressed you got that engine out over the radiator support.
 
Hello everyone! I am working on engine swapping my 80 that originally came with the 3FE and A440F combo to a second generation 350 small block Chevy with a cam and Vortec heads. I want to keep this swap simple, so I decided to keep my A440F transmission. I also want to go carbed in the beginning with the introduction of a Holley Sniper EFI system later on when my pockets are a little deeper. With that being said, I have a few questions which are mainly wiring and what to do with my ECM since I will no longer have FI for the time being.
-what all does my ECM control? My transmission is completely hydraulic with a kickdown cable so I doubt much goes there.
-with the carbed V8 can I completely remove my ECM? Since FI system from Toyota is now obsolete and therefore the sensors that go with it such as O2 and air volume sensors.
The only wires going to the engine are going to be the ignition, starter, alternator, and the battery. I have everything needed to make my water temp and oil pressure gauges work. The tach might be another story though…
Anyways here are the obligatory pictures of my 80 as she sits today!

View attachment 3083605

View attachment 3083606

View attachment 3083607
You need to get a copy of the EWD as you'll be pretty blind without it. It will tell you what all the ECU controls as well as all of the chassis wiring you'll have to interface with, if any.
 
Definitely an interesting swap. Hope you make a build thread so we can follow along.
I plan on making a build thread when I’m mostly done, just to keep it as organized as possible. And keeping the part numbers that I actually used vs. what I sent back because my brain works by trial and error lol
The short answer, yes. You can remove the ecu. Are you keeping the A440F? Also, You should just go ahead and take the radiator supports, front bumper and grille off. I can't imagine relocating the engine mounts with out having a clear line of sight to make sure things clear, it will also give you the ability to toss the hood back on and see what's clearing from underneath. Just my two cents, I am impressed you got that engine out over the radiator support.
I’m keeping the A440F with plans to install a new torque converter and valve body made for engine swaps like this. I plan to do a test fit of the engine and then mark out where my mounts will go and either weld or bolt them on. We got the engine out but we removed EVERYTHING from it beforehand and took out the smog stuff out too so there was a lot of room to move the engine forward then up and out.
You need to get a copy of the EWD as you'll be pretty blind without it. It will tell you what all the ECU controls as well as all of the chassis wiring you'll have to interface with, if any.
What does EWD stand for by chance? And hopefully this will be my key! 🔑
 
electrical wiring diagram
 

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