Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (6 Viewers)

[EricG]

Did you use the GM charcoal canister? I have to for smog compliance. On the sender, I removed the GM one from the fuel pump assembly and going to mount it to the side of the Toyota one. Then run the wires up to some boss style terminals in the factory fuel pump top plate. I saw someone on here that did that and it was cleanly done.

I'm using the charcoal canister that is recommended in the 80 section for replacing the Toyota one. It's GM, but not from my donor vehicle. Coming up over Imogene pass last fall it wasn't keeping up, so I replaced it. Haven't done a similar pull since.

I saw that post about the fuel level sender ... haven't looked at it to closely yet.

 

[White Stripe]

Managed to fanagle my way into this puppy for $300. It’s been 5 years and it’s time for phase 2

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Mild build with a little PSI on top. Give me a year or so to collect the other goodies. “Old” engine with go in the 40.

So is it a ls1 or ls2?

 

[thatcabledude]

So is it a ls1 or ls2?

Just a L33. I think they used those numbered heads on the LS6

 

[White Stripe]

Just a L33. I think they used those numbered heads on the LS6

Might want to go with 317 heads if going forced induction. How many psi are you shooting for?

 

[thatcabledude]

Might want to go with 317 heads if going forced induction. How many psi are you shooting for?

No more than 10

 

[White Stripe]

No more than 10

Well that will be crazy fast. I would like to do a turbo, but I have too many projects. I'm not sure how to package it under the hood either. I'm also not sure how I would keep it cool-mainly while towing. I would almost have to add a second radiator which I guess wouldn't be too hard. My tranny would need to be built a lot.

 

[White Stripe]

I'm using the charcoal canister that is recommended in the 80 section for replacing the Toyota one. It's GM, but not from my donor vehicle. Coming up over Imogene pass last fall it wasn't keeping up, so I replaced it. Haven't done a similar pull since.

I saw that post about the fuel level sender ... haven't looked at it to closely yet.

The gm fuel sender is a pretty important part of the swap. It really affects how the ecu powers the motor.

 

[cruisermatt]

Might want to go with 317 heads if going forced induction. How many psi are you shooting for?

It's 2022, no one should be lowering compression ratio on any engine

 

[White Stripe]

It's 2022, no one should be lowering compression ratio on any engine

I mean I wouldn't know until I do it as far as what compression ratio I personally would run. But I would probably stick to 9.5ish to 1. Maybe I'm too conservative. When you get a turbo on your fj60 with higher compression I will happily eat crow if you prove otherwise.

Edit-I have a feeling ill be eating crow lol

 

[cruisermatt]

I mean I wouldn't know until I do it as far as what compression ratio I personally would run. But I would probably stick to 9.5ish to 1. Maybe I'm too conservative. When you get a turbo on your fj60 with higher compression I will happily eat crow if you prove otherwise.

Edit-I have a feeling ill be eating crow lol

I've done plenty of turbo LS builds in other platforms already.
An L33 is already 9.9

Plenty of guys running boosted LS's and making way more power then any of us will in our cruisers.

 

[Joshua Cole]

The gm fuel sender is a pretty important part of the swap. It really affects how the ecu powers the motor.

Yes it is. For smog, it is a necessity. The PCM has to see between 15%-85% fuel level for the evap purge part. I was going to try and do a resistor that was the same value as 1/2 tank, but the PCM will show a fault. This is due to the fuel level never changing.

 

[White Stripe]

I've done plenty of turbo LS builds in other platforms already.
An L33 is already 9.9

Plenty of guys running boosted LS's and making way more power then any of us will in our cruisers.

You would know more than me. I guess my question is are those people running boost towing a camper up mountain passes? In that scenario could I get away with more compression with boost? Don't you have less room for tuning error at higher compression?

 

[White Stripe]

Yes it is. For smog, it is a necessity. The PCM has to see between 15%-85% fuel level for the evap purge part. I was going to try and do a resistor that was the same value as 1/2 tank, but the PCM will show a fault. This is due to the fuel level never changing.

Yeah it's something not mentioned a lot in swap forums.

 

[Joshua Cole]

Yeah it's something not mentioned a lot in swap forums.

Im going to do this swap in my 1941 Chevy sedan next. Then I will delete all this garbage. Lol

 

[EricG]

The gm fuel sender is a pretty important part of the swap. It really affects how the ecu powers the motor.

How so? My understanding is it just impacts the EVAP system, as Joshua said above. According to my HPTuners logs, my EVAP purge solenoid is still opening even without the GM fuel level sender and the corresponding code set.

 

[Joshua Cole]

How so? My understanding is it just impacts the EVAP system, as Joshua said above. According to my HPTuners logs, my EVAP purge solenoid is still opening even without the GM fuel level sender and the corresponding code set.

It only effects the PCM monitors. Which here in CA, they all have to be working. But it shouldn’t effect the drivability of the engine. It’s the same as running without a gas cap. It will throw a code but still drive the same.

On another note, I got bored today and just ordered all my parts.

 

[Tinkertoy]

@Tinkertoy The 6l90 in Australia has the same output shaft spline count as the 6l80, not sure on the geometry on the rest of the shaft. Here it does not. If you look back a page or two, I asked a similar question. It ‘looks’ like a few years of the camaro had the 6l90 with the correct output shaft, but as far as I know, no one has swapped one into a 6l90 and tried to use the adapter.

Thanks for the comment. I haven’t called a transmission shop to see about the cost or ability to change the output shaft. I did find a driveline shop who says they can make a spud shaft but it could take a while. I’ll let people know how it goes.

 

[Tinkertoy]

Still in the dream stage of what year engine/trans to buy. I see that buying a 32 spline shaft is easier to find but curious if you went with 2 wheel or 4x4 trans. I'm thinking 2012+- L96 with 6L90 but not sure whether to find 2 wheel or if 4x4 is ok. Haven't been through this thread in awhile and maybe it's listed here or on Mark's page. Thanks.

Still in the dream stage of what year engine/trans to buy. I see that buying a 32 spline shaft is easier to find but curious if you went with 2 wheel or 4x4 trans. I'm thinking 2012+- L96 with 6L90 but not sure whether to find 2 wheel or if 4x4 is ok. Haven't been through this thread in awhile and maybe it's listed here or on Mark's page. Thanks.

if I had to do it again. I would get a 6L80. If you can get the instructions on the Adapter from Marks. Because depending on the trans you may not want to move your TCase. Once you move it. I suspect you have to replace drive shafts etc. not sure. In my case inhave acceoted that I will put in new driveshafts since I will for sure have to move the Tcase.

 

[1863]

Need some help getting MAF to work.

Setup: L96 crate engine with GM performance harness. (not relevant but 6L80 with tap shift

using 4: aluminum tube with MAF 10" from throttle body. The harness instructions state the MAF must be 10" from the throttle body and at least 3" from upstream bends. the MAF is 6" from upstream 90 bend.

I don't see any reason my MAF readings are low, but the engine won't run right with the MAF plugged in. Will run just fine on speed density mode (default if MAF unplugged).

getting P101 code for low reading. The engine won't stay at idle rpm and jumps around.

I thought I was getting heat soaked from the radiator hose which was running over the top of the air intake tube, but I re-routed the radiator hose and bought a new MAF sensor. still having the same issues.

I am completely bewildered...

Any ideas????

 

[White Stripe]

Need some help getting MAF to work.

Setup: L96 crate engine with GM performance harness. (not relevant but 6L80 with tap shift

using 4: aluminum tube with MAF 10" from throttle body. The harness instructions state the MAF must be 10" from the throttle body and at least 3" from upstream bends. the MAF is 6" from upstream 90 bend.

I don't see any reason my MAF readings are low, but the engine won't run right with the MAF plugged in. Will run just fine on speed density mode (default if MAF unplugged).

getting P101 code for low reading. The engine won't stay at idle rpm and jumps around.

I thought I was getting heat soaked from the radiator hose which was running over the top of the air intake tube, but I re-routed the radiator hose and bought a new MAF sensor. still having the same issues.

I am completely bewildered...

Any ideas????

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Intake tube needs to be the correct diameter or the maf will read incorrectly.