Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (19 Viewers)

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Just an OPINION here. I do not understand all this fuss over tapping into the existing wiring. A swap is a major undertaking in any vehicle, removing the heart as it were. The remaining wiring and fuel system is at least twenty years old.

Why folks feel the need to tap into that system is beyond me. A fuel pump harness and related wiring is a walk in the park compared to the balance of the wiring required for a swap. The ECU provides a signal, the rest is a straight forward relayed system. It's all in the relay/fuse box on a crate motor. So why not just make a harness and have the peace of mind that this system is all new and straight forward.
 
I have the urge to do it to keep the aftermarket clutter down. It cuts down on confusion if I have problems at the side of the road. I'm doing my swap on a garage kept LX450 with low miles so everything is a pretty cherry 20 years old. I have it all figured out pretty pretty well now. I put a part time kit in my t-case which seems to have caused me some wiring issues. It looks like the pin 7 removal mod is required for the part time spool install.
 
I think it just the opposite, your GM harness already has all the provisions to run the fuel pump, electric fans, etc...
Now add that into your existing wiring that needs to be recon configured...

So when your on the side of the road with out the wire diagram you made to re wire. Better yet you get towed to a garage and you need to explain the mosh/mash to them
 
simple is better I use the approach NCFJ is talking about. My technique is to strip all the old engine wiring away and get rid of it, not duplicate relay efforts by using factory relays when new relays and fuses come with the harness and keep the splices and wire color changes to a minimum. I have done numerous engine swaps with the LS engines and the use of a good aftermarket harness almost always makes this process simpler. This is the reason I eliminated all the factory fuel pump stuff and only used the wire going to the actual pump. keep it simple
 
My approach is pretty simple, the swap is done as a stand alone entity with as little interface with OEM electrical system as possible. I run an independent ground to the fuel pump as well. A large part of the design of the swaps done in my shop are future maintainability along with reliability. I assume that someone aside from myself will work on these systems in the future and they should be the least complex a possible. I also go to the trouble to label all wiring.
 
NCFJ said:
My approach is pretty simple, the swap is done as a stand alone entity with as little interface with OEM electrical system as possible. I run an independent ground to the fuel pump as well. A large part of the design of the swaps done in my shop are future maintainability along with reliability. I assume that someone aside from myself will work on these systems in the future and they should be the least complex a possible. I also go to the trouble to label all wiring.
Click to expand...
VERY clean in pics. You do some nice work there.
 
I'm looking at running exhaust now and there isn't much space between the frame, brake lines, transmission NSS/shifter mechanism on the driver side. How close is too close for this stuff to the exhaust? Have you guys been wrapping the exhaust or putting in heat shields?
 
I used header wrap on the downpipes and built sheet metal heat shields for my cats. If you go back and read through the thread there are pics posted. I also relocated my brake lines to the top of the frame rail to move them away from the exhaust.

I did also try and find the smallest diameter round cats I could (4") and got offset bodies so I could twist them into the best position independent of where the downpipes ended up.

Still, on the passenger side there is about 1/8" from the cat body to the frame rail, and about 1/4-3/8" between the heat shield and the driveshaft. It is tight, but so far no rubbing. The driver's side has a lot of room in comparison.

Note that mine is built to OBDI emissions and I didn't need the dual cats on each side. That gets WAY more complicated.
 
I'm on final assembly here and I see now that my stock radiator has this nipple for a coolant line. Some of you guys have been talking about getting a steam vent installed at a rad shop, do some of the stock rads have this nipple and some dont? I can just connect my steam vent tube from the heads directly to this right? When I go buy a mew rad for the truck, will I be able to find one with this nipple?

20171005_184823.jpg
 
yes ,I hooked my steam line up to the radiator at the stock nipple. It would not be hard to have a bung tig welded to an aftermarket radiator either.
 
Some questions for you V8 swappers. First, thanks to everyone who has taken the time and energy to post all of the information that is on this board. I've read through just about every thread I can find on this site about the LS swaps to try and prevent stupid questions and save all of you time. I do have a few questions that I could use some more clarity on.

I have a 1991 FJ80 that I just picked up. Rust free, 116k miles, I don't think it's ever even seen a dirt road.

I have a 2006 L33 5.3 and a 4l60e. Marks adapter to the Toyota transfer case.

I would like to run this truck with no lift if possible. I've seen the no lift thread with the 6l80. I've seen some relatively low lift threads with the 4l60, but am not sure of lift height. I know I need the F-body oil pan, Camaro shallow trans pan. I plan on buying a Tom Woods drive shaft for the front to help. So, my questions.

1. Is this possible?
2. What would be the best motor mount adapters?
3. While we're on the topic, do any of the LC transplanters make motor mounts that put the motor in the right spot? Forge, Rockjock, hardline, etc? I'd be happy to pay for a plug and play solution.
4. I know I can set the motor higher. Can it be set high enough with the truck intake, or do I need a corvette intake? I would like to stay with the truck if at all possible.
5. Assuming I need a front driveshaft, what size? Will 2 inch make it. 1.5"? Truck will stay on 33s, but it will be used offroad and I don't want to sacrifice strength any more than necessary. I will switch to spicer 1310s.
6. Since I will need a front driveshaft, the extra expense for a rear is not huge. Has anyone set the motor farther forward or to the left for clearance? I realize there is not much space on the driver's side due to the power steering, but is there enough to make the difference?
7. I have an excellent aluminum welder who could modify the trans pan if needed. Is there room internally to clearance the pan?

That's all I can think of for now. Thanks again for all of the insight on the boards.
 
Dirty Dingo seem to be the mount of choice.
The PS pump would be the limiting factor for a offset install
There is a thread, no lift 4l60 with a smaller drive shaft. I think it mentioned size and who made it? There is also info on using a shallow trans pan from a Camaro. I got one but it only looks slightly smaller?
I wondered the same on tranny pan?
 
@DieselDriver is on point with his info.

@RockJock82 would be the guy to ask. He built the only no-lift 4LXX swap that I know of, and is pretty good about responding to questions (THANK YOU, if you read this) That build is here: 1995 5.3L w/o lift kit


One concern I'd have with no-lift is if you use stock tire size you'll be turning more RPMs on the freeway than will be most efficient/comfortable.
 
I'd forgotten about that thread as well. I just put 285/75 16s on mine with OME stock height springs. 33ish. Fits well, looks good, easy size to find.

I PM'd and emailed Rockjock. Thanks for your help Diesel and bloc.
 
I shortened my truck pan and wouldn't do it again. The casting is full of contaminates and doesn't weld nice. My welder budy was using a mig with spool gun and it was full of pin holes after. I ended up coating the outside with epoxy and don't trust it. Apparently a tig welder would work better? It seemed to work ok for this guy
 
I used the 1fz motor mounts for my swap. I bolted a 1/4" steel plate to the chevy block and made a 1" spacer to weld in between. It's working well. I have a 1" body lift in mine and the engine is close to the hood. Without body lift you can eliminate the 1" spacer and just weld the 1/4" plate to the top plate of the toyota motor mount.
 
Interesting, first I've heard of using the Toyota mounts. Any pics? Thanks for the tip re:welding the pan.
 
The mounts look similar to the Marks 4wd conversion mounts on their site. That's what made me decide to just use the 1fz mounts.
 
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