8x Series V8 Swaps (2 Viewers)

[scottryana]

Haha the curse of the project. I have thought something similar myself. Like why drive this old 80 when I could just get a 200. Throw a little lift, maybe some bumpers, new king shocks, and then it all just snowballs, just like I am sure your diesel Toureg will.

Better get on it.. I've decided to sell the rig in the next few months.

It's AWESOME, and finally "done".. but this last 6500 mile trip made me realize that for the way I travel, overall I would be a lot better off with something less built. Plus it being "done" means I need a new project. Thinking a diesel touareg to travel in and toss a turbo onto the TSX?

Realistically I do have a few odds & ends to button up before it gets listed (re-resistor a toyota cruise stalk, hard-wire BCM, further tweaked oil pan, condenser fan) so you have some time but..

 

[bloc]

Haha the curse of the project. I have thought something similar myself. Like why drive this old 80 when I could just get a 200. Throw a little lift, maybe some bumpers, new king shocks, and then it all just snowballs, just like I am sure your diesel Toureg will.

A 200 crossed my mind but still the mileage isn't good enough. Plus I'd be tempted to build it.

Treg will get as mild of a tune as I can manage with a DPF delete for longevity, spare wheels with ATs for trips, and that's it. They can't really be "lifted" AFAIK and I'm fine with that. Besides, I wouldn't want to pinstripe a rig that nice anyway.

Either way.. I will post details on the cruise stalk refit and anything else I mess with before I let it go.

 

[thatcabledude]

Plus it being "done" means I need a new project.

Ehh emm:

Used LSA Supercharger

 

[ThomasMore66]

A 200 crossed my mind but still the mileage isn't good enough. Plus I'd be tempted to build it.

Treg will get as mild of a tune as I can manage with a DPF delete for longevity, spare wheels with ATs for trips, and that's it. They can't really be "lifted" AFAIK and I'm fine with that. Besides, I wouldn't want to pinstripe a rig that nice anyway.

Either way.. I will post details on the cruise stalk refit and anything else I mess with before I let it go.

So when you have two 80's and a Tacoma, none of them ever seem to get done.

 

[steve604]

Someome help me put here, I am half way through my LS swap using a 2003 LQ4 engine with 4L80E. I used a 4wd truck as a donor. I have the marks adapter for 4l80 to land cruiser t-case. Do I need a rear speed sensor somewhere? The tranny didn't have one on the output shaft and Mark's adapter doesn't have a provision for a sensor. Do the newer trannys not need that sensor? Or does my tuner need to tune that sensor out of the system?

 

[DavidinAZ]

Someome help me put here, I am half way through my LS swap using a 2003 LQ4 engine with 4L80E. I used a 4wd truck as a donor. I have the marks adapter for 4l80 to land cruiser t-case. Do I need a rear speed sensor somewhere? The tranny didn't have one on the output shaft and Mark's adapter doesn't have a provision for a sensor. Do the newer trannys not need that sensor? Or does my tuner need to tune that sensor out of the system?

im doing the same swap, and from what i understand 4wd 4l80s had a single reluctor ring in the front position, 2wd trans had both front and rear. when i had my 4l80 built, i had the guy put both reluctor rings in.

 

[bulhas]

youll want to add a reluctor ring from Novak 4l80-OSS

you might be able to source the parts cheaper but its not bad, while your trans is open, id add clutches to be safe and a shift kit if your inspired

it is possible to use to split your signal both way however off your t-case output sensor, but than its VERY important that your harness has a 4lo switch wired to it in order for PCM to know when its in 4lo or it wont be be a happy camper

 

[steve604]

I decided to just do it right and get the second reluctor ring put in. $400 with a shift kit and replace all the seals along with whatever clutches are needed if needed. I drove the truck before pulling it and the tranny was perfect along with the fluid that came out of it so doing this is killing me. I've had so many problems with rebuilt trannys in the past.

 

[bulhas]

I decided to just do it right and get the second reluctor ring put in. $400 with a shift kit and replace all the seals along with whatever clutches are needed if needed. I drove the truck before pulling it and the tranny was perfect along with the fluid that came out of it so doing this is killing me. I've had so many problems with rebuilt trannys in the past.

i was the same way, but was happy when i pulled it apart even though the fluid was great and the trans shifted nice, the clutches were starting to crack! so was worth every penny

 

[offr0adlim0]

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I too went the mechanical fan route. Like you said electric fans would of been way easier. To save me a trip behind the parts counter, do you remember the part numbers of the hoses you used to make the upper radiator hose? Also the numbers for the lower hose if you have them. Here is a pic of mine. Built LQ4, 4l80, comp cams xfi grind, truck intake, marks mounts, etc.

 

[bloc]

I too went the mechanical fan route. Like you said electric fans would of been way easier. To save me a trip behind the parts counter, do you remember the part numbers of the hoses you used to make the upper radiator hose? Also the numbers for the lower hose if you have them.

Nice work! I don't have part numbers, but my hoses are a combination of hoses from stock FZJ80 and stock 2008 escalade.. upper and lower respectively. I did need a handful of reducers and joiners to make it all work.

 

[offr0adlim0]

Nice work! I don't have part numbers, but my hoses are a combination of hoses from stock FZJ80 and stock 2008 escalade.. upper and lower respectively. I did need a handful of reducers and joiners to make it all work.

Good deal. I tried a set of hoses from a 2005 Tahoe and they turned out looking like crap, debated on making one out of metal and using rubber ends. Almost have mine running and the plan is driving it to the Southern Cruiser Crawl in 38 days.

 

[bloc]

Good deal. I tried a set of hoses from a 2005 Tahoe and they turned out looking like crap, debated on making one out of metal and using rubber ends. Almost have mine running and the plan is driving it to the Southern Cruiser Crawl in 38 days.

A metal one is probably a good idea, though without the upper steam nipple of a stock FZJ radiator you have less need than I did. Basically with the upper hoses above the shroud it can be hard to get all of the air out. When you start it after first fill REALLY watch your water temps.. I had lots of trouble getting all of the air out at first. I found the best method was to pull the heater hoses and fill into the block/water pump through them.

 

[offr0adlim0]

A metal one is probably a good idea, though without the upper steam nipple of a stock FZJ radiator you have less need than I did. Basically with the upper hoses above the shroud it can be hard to get all of the air out. When you start it after first fill REALLY watch your water temps.. I had lots of trouble getting all of the air out at first. I found the best method was to pull the heater hoses and fill into the block/water pump through them.

I attached my fan shroud to the sides of the radiator, the passenger side upper fan shroud mount has been drilled out and I have a nipple that screws in for a steam vent. In theory it shouldn't be a pain to get the air out.

 

[Squad1]

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I too went the mechanical fan route. Like you said electric fans would of been way easier. To save me a trip behind the parts counter, do you remember the part numbers of the hoses you used to make the upper radiator hose? Also the numbers for the lower hose if you have them. Here is a pic of mine. Built LQ4, 4l80, comp cams xfi grind, truck intake, marks mounts, etc.

View attachment 1530990

i went to the parts store I use and borrowed a handful of hoses. I was able to find a lower and upper that just needed to be trimmed upper hose#9284 lower hose # 22437 for my truck they fit great. The upper may not fit with a ...
These are the hoses I used on my swap. It was detailed more way earlier in theis thread, I believe post #559

 

[steve604]

Can anyone tell ne where to find posts about what wiring was used from the fzj80 harness to make everything work? I have the fsm wiring diagrams but would like to see what other people have done. The LS harness is simple enough and there is tons of info online on that stuff.

 

[Squad1]

I used the 2 factory connectors behind the glovebox for access to most of my factory stuff like ignition and gauges. i cut the matching plugs off the old engine harness and connected with crimp and heat shrink connectors to my new engine harness. you will end up with a handful of unused wires back there. I just taped them up and tucked them out of the way. you can get the tach, ignition, and starter wires right there. The starter crank wire is a 10 or 12 gauge black and white i believe. It originally went out to the trans neutral safety switch on the toyota trans. I kept the factory stuff going to the t case and speedo and just removed everything I didn't need. No mods to the original speed sensor or speedo wiring needed. I did add a Dakota Digital box the calibrate my speedo for 35" tires. I interrupted the speedo signal wire in the same area behind the glovebox. For the brake pedal signal that my harness needed I used the cruise control wires at the brake light switch. The switch has 4 wires in it, 2 are for the brake lights and the other 2 were for the factory cruise. I had to make the cruise switch send a 12v signal to the computer to unlock the torque converter when the brakes were applied. This was easy to do. I just switched the switch from grounding a wire to providing power when brake pedal pushed. If you research some of my earlier posts you can see the pics of the 2 micro switches i used for my neutral safety an reverse light circuits. This set up took a little time to create but has proven very reliable in the past year.
The wiring is not as bad as it seems. Good luck with it

 

[bulhas]

to get your brake interrupt you have 2 spots you steal from! You can tap at either the brake switch or the cruise control module, connectors c4 and s18, steal the green and orange wire, tested my output today and worked as I needed , im so close to firing I can smell the fuel already, oh wait thats the fuel I drained out of the fuel tank today.........

Also send me your email @steve604 Ill send you a link to my google sheets with the pinout for my 97, cant guarantee its perfect but so far all is good on my side, I did a test of my electronics today and everything turned on as it should. I can tell you though even with a pinout sheet you'll still want/need to go through the EWD's as there a few ways to skin a cat as said above

 

[bloc]

Note that 97 LX has unique cruise wiring colors.. different even than 96 LX.

 

[ThomasMore66]

Someone on Mud: Instagram post by Magnuson Superchargers • Sep 11, 2017 at 10:23pm UTC