Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (5 Viewers)

[azcrackshot]

if you make the ecms and tcm compatible to talk yes not an an ecu, that your just using the factory tuning, like you would be on a cheater, however the cheater allows you to run it standalone, and use an older ecm that allows drive by cable versus drive by wire

another thing to factor in

2007-2009 T-43's will only accept OS's from those years, and the 2010-up T-43's will only take OS's from those years. If you try to program an OS outside the year range for the T-43 you have, it will come up with an error and abort programming... Been there. you will need a TCM from the same year as the ECM and use an OS for that year. Should be good then... Good luck!

Or run a cheater cable from TCI and call it a day..... lol

My trans is from a 2010 and up truck, so we can run the correct OS and have my GM tech flash whatever software we want.


We are running a new ECM with drive by wire. Basically we will run my computer like it is a CTSV with a 6L90E

 

[My4x4FJ40]

Doesn't the NP203 transfer case have a center rear output? How would that work with an 80?

Also, I'd like to stick with the stock transfer case, or one that lets me keep the AWD/4wd by being able to lock the case in 4H and 4L like I can now with the 80.

You only use the front section of the NP 203 gearbox which is the high low section and then you use Jerry's adapter 2 a fj60 split case

 

[bonomonster]

You only use the front section of the NP 203 gearbox which is the high low section and then you use Jerry's adapter 2 a fj60 split caseView attachment 1327116

This just opened a whole new can of freakin awesome!!!!..... I'm not real familiar with the fj60s, but I'm assuming this is a part time 4wd transfer case.

 

[My4x4FJ40]

This just opened a whole new can of freakin awesome!!!!..... I'm not real familiar with the fj60s, but I'm assuming this is a part time 4wd transfer case.

yes this is a part-time case meaning you can put lockouts on your front axle and make it part time and save a bunch of wear and tear and better gas mileage.

Look at my build thread of old red and you will see everything in there on this as far as I know I'm the only one that has done triple stick cable shifters and it is awesome I love it

 

[bulhas]

so im getting close to test fitting my motor, trans, and tcase like in the next 2 weeks, however I am curious, has anyone ever run the alternator on the passenger side??? My current alternator is passenger side and hoping to run my brackets like this in order to have frame clearance from my p-pump to run a hydroboost brake setup

 

[DieselDriver]

Never seen it done that way, doesn't mean it wouldn't fit?
Why wouldn't the PS pump down low work for hydro boost ? It's just two lines, and the returns could tee together?

 

[bulhas]

most guys close the p-pump hydroboost return line as its too close to frame/steering box, moving it up gives me the warm and fuzzy feeling it wont be too close

 

[DieselDriver]

That looks closer than a few others have posted.
Check the link on pg 1 by 35overdrive
"A 1994 80 Series gets an LQ9 GM V8"
He has the same set up in your picture

 

[bulhas]

hes running alternator below not above, id rather not have my alternator below my power steering personally......

the bracket i posted moves the power steering up to where his is

 

[landheaven]

Ok I'll play.

1997 LC:

- GM Erod 6.2 LS3 crate engine
- GM 4L70E transmission. Chose 4L over 6L for standalone trans controller, less weight, ease of install, and (hopefully) ease of servicing should anything go wrong on long hauls. Not planning to take the rig over 550 RWHP, and will be towing often.
- Cruise control (converted the shift knob's "overdrive" thumb button to cruise control button)
- Keeping full time AWD
- Frontrunner driveline kit
- Mechanical fan, 20" F150 fan blade, aluminum radiator
- Compushift controller
- Advance Adapters transfer case/adapter kit
- Borla Pro XS exhaust
- Added lots of other fun mods while in there!

Just started her up last weekend and will get a video up of that soon.

Have posted these pics in other discussions so apologies for those who have seen them already. Pics below are out of order on the build - will probably put up a full build detail when it's done:

 

[OGBeno]

The more people play, the better the game is.

 

[bonomonster]

Ok I'll play.

1997 LC:

- GM Erod 6.2 LS3 crate engine
- GM 4L70E transmission. Chose 4L over 6L for standalone trans controller, less weight, ease of install, and (hopefully) ease of servicing should anything go wrong on long hauls. Not planning to take the rig over 550 RWHP, and will be towing often.
- Cruise control (converted the shift knob's "overdrive" thumb button to cruise control button)
- Keeping full time AWD
- Frontrunner driveline kit
- Mechanical fan, 20" F150 fan blade, aluminum radiator
- Compushift controller
- Advance Adapters transfer case/adapter kit
- Borla Pro XS exhaust
- Added lots of other fun mods while in there!

Just started her up last weekend and will get a video up of that soon.

Have posted these pics in other discussions so apologies for those who have seen them already. Pics below are out of order on the build - will probably put up a full build detail when it's done:

I'm in love......

 

[aktundra]

Oil pressure
A little trickier. there is an aftermarket product that replaces the oil cooling system, blocks off those ports, with a single port for an assortment of OEM oil pressure sensors . I hate to give up the oil cooling system, and I am experimenting with taping pipe threads into the Oil Cooler Manifold. I'll post up something if it works.

Here is my effort to get oil pressure to the OEM dash

 

[NCFJ]

Lots of great information in this thread and the linked threads.

The goal is a solid running vehicle capable of DD duties and off road use. You've not met the goal if you are working on it every other weekend.

I'll mention a few things to keep in mind as you plan and commence your build

-CHEAP will come back and bite you on the ass, period. Do it once and do it right, short cuts will cost you money and time later.

-Reliability and Maintainability should be the goal. Design your build, every step, don't just throw parts at it and hope for the best. How many times have you worked on a vehicle and said "Who's the idiot that designed this, I can't even get a wrench on it" Don't be that idiot!

-Most GM trans adapters work with a 2WD trans keep this in mind while shopping

-Do yourself a favor and replace the fuel system from tank to fuel rail, just do it

-Replace the radiator, starting with a fresh cooling system just makes sense. Consider hose placement when ordering and have them install a steam port. DO NOT DRILL AND TAP WATER PUMP HOUSING FOR STEAM PORT

-Replace knock sensors on Gen III motors, all sensors is also good. Replace gaskets on the motor, intake and valve cover at a minimum. The motor is on an engine stand, do the work now while it is easy. Who wants to replace a water pump 500 miles into a swap?

-Put the fuel pump in the tank TANKS Inc. gas tanks for street rods, muscle cars, custom cars and trucks

-Upgrade the PS and trans coolers

-Draw out your wiring first, there is a lot of wiring going everywhere. Bundle and secure harnesses. It's not only better mechanically it looks a whole lot better as well.

-Triple your budget for the little things


The big thing is, the little things. There are a ton of them. Keep a log of some sort. I keep a running sheet on jobs in the shop, every time I think of something I write it on the list. The goal is to make the list shorter, that seems to only happen in the final days of the swap.

Think out ahead of yourself. If you want to clean up and paint things while you go you have to be prepping and painting parts days or longer before you'll use them. Plan plan plan

An LS/Vortec swap is a big job, well worth the effort. Take your time with it, enjoy the experience. If it gets frustrating, step back a bit. There is always something that needs de greasing or something

 

[JeepinPete]

I did a 5.3l swap years back in a full size Jeep Cherokee. I've been reading up on an LSX swap into my 80, and there are a couple things that I wonder about.

One, oil pressure sender. It seems everyone is tapping the oil cooler circuit cover. The GM sensor is located behind the intake manifold, in the V. It is not monitored by the PCM. Any reason not to use that port in a 80 swap?

Two, has anyone tried using the stock fuel pump? The pump is obviously over rated for the 220hp the FZJ make, since it had to have enough capacity to accommodate an add on supercharger. I know it has can supply enough fuel to achieve 8mpg on a tank of fuel.

If/when I do this, I will use a 5 speed manual trans. In my Cherokee, I used a NV3500 with the 5.3l, and I liked the combo a lot. As noted above, most if not all of the adapters use 2wd versions of the transmission, which simply would not work on a NV3500 since the tail housing cannot be unbolted. Since the 4wd version is shorter, has anyone added a range box to make up the difference in length?

 

[lazy]

My guess on oil p sender is the difference in size for a mechanical sender vs transducer type.

 

[gahi]

I have just taken the stock LS oil pressure sender, broken it apart, and drilled/tapped whats left to use as an adapter to whatever thread your needing. The stock LS one uses a straight thread with crush washer.

 

[Elbert]

I did a 5.3l swap years back in a full size Jeep Cherokee. I've been reading up on an LSX swap into my 80, and there are a couple things that I wonder about.

One, oil pressure sender. It seems everyone is tapping the oil cooler circuit cover. The GM sensor is located behind the intake manifold, in the V. It is not monitored by the PCM. Any reason not to use that port in a 80 swap?

Two, has anyone tried using the stock fuel pump? The pump is obviously over rated for the 220hp the FZJ make, since it had to have enough capacity to accommodate an add on supercharger. I know it has can supply enough fuel to achieve 8mpg on a tank of fuel.

If/when I do this, I will use a 5 speed manual trans. In my Cherokee, I used a NV3500 with the 5.3l, and I liked the combo a lot. As noted above, most if not all of the adapters use 2wd versions of the transmission, which simply would not work on a NV3500 since the tail housing cannot be unbolted. Since the 4wd version is shorter, has anyone added a range box to make up the difference in length?

I believe the comments about using a 2wd transmission refer to the GM automatic transmission and the way it mounts to the adapter, not sure the same reference applies to manual transmissions.

 

[Clinton RSA]

Hello
I am new to this forum. I am in South Africa and am busy fitting a LM7 5.3L with a 4l60e into a 1992 80 series cruiser. It is too expensive to get the adaptor here from the US and Australia so am having one made. My question is how long must it be. From what I can see on the internet there are clearance issues between the engine and firewall and the driveshaft and the gearbox sump. So the engine must be moved forward. But by how much? What must the position of the front of the bell housing be relative to the original. Can anyone help?

 

[Ali M]

Lots of great information in this thread and the linked threads.

The goal is a solid running vehicle capable of DD duties and off road use. You've not met the goal if you are working on it every other weekend.

I'll mention a few things to keep in mind as you plan and commence your build

-CHEAP will come back and bite you on the ass, period. Do it once and do it right, short cuts will cost you money and time later.

-Reliability and Maintainability should be the goal. Design your build, every step, don't just throw parts at it and hope for the best. How many times have you worked on a vehicle and said "Who's the idiot that designed this, I can't even get a wrench on it" Don't be that idiot!

-Most GM trans adapters work with a 2WD trans keep this in mind while shopping

-Do yourself a favor and replace the fuel system from tank to fuel rail, just do it

-Replace the radiator, starting with a fresh cooling system just makes sense. Consider hose placement when ordering and have them install a steam port. DO NOT DRILL AND TAP WATER PUMP HOUSING FOR STEAM PORT

-Replace knock sensors on Gen III motors, all sensors is also good. Replace gaskets on the motor, intake and valve cover at a minimum. The motor is on an engine stand, do the work now while it is easy. Who wants to replace a water pump 500 miles into a swap?

-Put the fuel pump in the tank TANKS Inc. gas tanks for street rods, muscle cars, custom cars and trucks

-Upgrade the PS and trans coolers

-Draw out your wiring first, there is a lot of wiring going everywhere. Bundle and secure harnesses. It's not only better mechanically it looks a whole lot better as well.

-Triple your budget for the little things


The big thing is, the little things. There are a ton of them. Keep a log of some sort. I keep a running sheet on jobs in the shop, every time I think of something I write it on the list. The goal is to make the list shorter, that seems to only happen in the final days of the swap.

Think out ahead of yourself. If you want to clean up and paint things while you go you have to be prepping and painting parts days or longer before you'll use them. Plan plan plan

An LS/Vortec swap is a big job, well worth the effort. Take your time with it, enjoy the experience. If it gets frustrating, step back a bit. There is always something that needs de greasing or something

Great list. I am new to the whole topic of V8 swapping on LCs and it is intriguing since I am in the market for fzj80 or fj60. How much is it roughly to do a professional LS3 swap on a fj62 or fzj80 so I can prepare myself for this when the time comes also what kind of warranty if any is offered by your shop and last how long does it take? Will this also affect the title of the car?