This
Really glad to see you finally got your Betty back! What a huge bunch of hurdles. Congrats!
At this point you should be glad to have a wrench in hand
Builds '86 FJ60 moving to Munich but, first... . (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter zeeklafreek
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Really glad to see you finally got your Betty back! What a huge bunch of hurdles. Congrats!
At this point you should be glad to have a wrench in hand
- Thread starter
- #182
BB meets RR (Ruby Red). the Yaris we had to buy in order to qualify for 'oldtimer' insurance on Betty ... both have the same HP. lol
Took Betty out yesterday on a hot afternoon for city driving. She was right on the edge of over heating. Power steering is still sometimes an issue. Oddly, fluid seems to be leaking out of the the top of the PS pump. And, after about 15 minutes, idle increases to just over 1K RPM.
Took Betty out yesterday on a hot afternoon for city driving. She was right on the edge of over heating. Power steering is still sometimes an issue. Oddly, fluid seems to be leaking out of the the top of the PS pump. And, after about 15 minutes, idle increases to just over 1K RPM.
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Now that she’s in your hands, you can fix her right. I know you didn’t want or expect it to go that way … but at least now you know stuff will be done right.
The PS leak you speak of is pretty common. There’s a rubber gasket with a metal ring around it that should fit there. If you replace it be sure to count the thread turns as I think that nut is loading the bearings.
- Thread starter
- #185
Mattress arrived today and have to say, I'm dang pleased. It fits best the opposite way I had imagined it, with the head portion at the back. It connect with snaps and can be completely removed but connected, it acts as a perfect "reading in bed" pillow. I only laid down on it once but it seems like a super comfy biscuit. It actually takes longer to deflate it than inflating it (~5 minutes) and apparently, after the 2nd manual blow (HR!), it will self inflate. It even matches pretty well. I'm not sure if it's available in NA but if anyone's interested, I'm happy to order from here and work out shipping on down the road.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Looks cool. How tall are you? I am a very average 5’9 63/64” and I don’t fit on the floor. Need to make a platform that is folded seat bottom height to gain the extra inches.
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- #187
I'm 5'9" too and am able to just lay out flat. Essentially, the 'base' portion of the mattress is just a couple of inches shorter than the entire length of the rear cargo area. That leaves a little wiggle room for the pillow portion to lean up like it does. I imagine when we eventually sleep, we can just unlatch that pillow bit and move it flat on the mattress.
- Thread starter
- #188
In the middle of trying to track down ongoing overheating/sputtering engine issues, it turns out BBs brake lights aren't working. I'm not sure how long this has been the case as it was only pointed out to me yesterday during an errand run.
I've already checked the fuse and it's fine. Dieter and crew did install a Euro/German compliant tow package which had to include splicing into the stock harness, I assume. Any thoughts on where to poke first
I've already checked the fuse and it's fine. Dieter and crew did install a Euro/German compliant tow package which had to include splicing into the stock harness, I assume. Any thoughts on where to poke first
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I would first check the switch on the brake pedal.In the middle of trying to track down ongoing overheating/sputtering engine issues, it turns out BBs brake lights aren't working. I'm not sure how long this has been the case as it was only pointed out to me yesterday during an errand run.
I've already checked the fuse and it's fine. Dieter and crew did install a Euro/German compliant tow package which had to include splicing into the stock harness, I assume. Any thoughts on where to poke first
RevISK
SILVER Star
Test the brake switchIn the middle of trying to track down ongoing overheating/sputtering engine issues, it turns out BBs brake lights aren't working. I'm not sure how long this has been the case as it was only pointed out to me yesterday during an errand run.
I've already checked the fuse and it's fine. Dieter and crew did install a Euro/German compliant tow package which had to include splicing into the stock harness, I assume. Any thoughts on where to poke first
RevISK
SILVER Star
There’s a rubber pad mounted to a piece of metal that depresses the brake switch. Sometimes the switch leaves a permanent indentation in the rubber pad, rendering it ineffective. Sometimes the rubber pad falls out completely. I’d add that to the list of things to check. Surprisingly that little piece was still available from Toyota as of two years ago.
- Thread starter
- #193
OK, sorted....I should have started with the easy stuff first but checked the tow plug and saw it wasn't getting any juice so checked the brake switch and discovered one small spade clip had worked itself loose or might have been jostled loose when adjusting my @TRAIL TAILOR floor mats.
During the discovery phase, I met one of my next door neighbors who was curious and wanted to help (which is good because one of the other next door neighbors has already complained twice when I let her run more than 1 minute). Old Land Cruisers bringing about world peace, one neighbor at a time. Turns out he has a Mercedes old timer.
So then I wanted to tackle the occasional high idle/hesitancy/dieseling.
What I know:
- she starts cold easily enough, just a couple of gas pedal pumps or half choke and then idles like below as expected at ~700 RPM
Then, after driving, and warmed up, she won't idle below 1K RPM, usually 1.1K RPM and off and on will run quite hot which is when the hesitancy and dieseling starts. I think I've dialed in the coolant level so that she's not burping through the overflow jug now.
A couple of things.
- I don't hear any click when I turn the ignition one position
- No increase in idle when I cut on the AC (see above?)
- She is de-smogged but most everything left intact to fool the TUV inspectors (I am considering the ManFre pulley replacement to neaten things up and to make sure water pump belt tension is correct). When I tighten that belt to what I think is proper tension, I get squealing from the smog pump. I loosened it a bit and I can see the water pump is turning.
- Runs *mostly* OK with the exception of the above-mentioned hesitancy/dieseling but that seems to only happen when hot, sooo, ...I did check with an IR temp gauge and maximum temp I saw was 220F and the in dash gauge was right at edge of going to red. But that was last week before I had the coolant levels dialed in/burped and the water/smog pump belt slightly tightened.
And, I discovered why rear wiper washer wasn't delivering any fluid, the car paint shop appear to have cut the hose. It was quite hard and brittle so I think I'll just replace the whole kit and kaboodle but that ca wait. Also, we noticed since ethe exhaust pipe hangs quite high a fair amount of condensation is/has been building up inside the left side of the rear bumper. Aside from the rust factor, would that amount of blockage need to be addressed?
Sorry for the novella.
During the discovery phase, I met one of my next door neighbors who was curious and wanted to help (which is good because one of the other next door neighbors has already complained twice when I let her run more than 1 minute). Old Land Cruisers bringing about world peace, one neighbor at a time. Turns out he has a Mercedes old timer.
So then I wanted to tackle the occasional high idle/hesitancy/dieseling.
What I know:
- she starts cold easily enough, just a couple of gas pedal pumps or half choke and then idles like below as expected at ~700 RPM
Then, after driving, and warmed up, she won't idle below 1K RPM, usually 1.1K RPM and off and on will run quite hot which is when the hesitancy and dieseling starts. I think I've dialed in the coolant level so that she's not burping through the overflow jug now.
A couple of things.
- I don't hear any click when I turn the ignition one position
- No increase in idle when I cut on the AC (see above?)
- She is de-smogged but most everything left intact to fool the TUV inspectors (I am considering the ManFre pulley replacement to neaten things up and to make sure water pump belt tension is correct). When I tighten that belt to what I think is proper tension, I get squealing from the smog pump. I loosened it a bit and I can see the water pump is turning.
- Runs *mostly* OK with the exception of the above-mentioned hesitancy/dieseling but that seems to only happen when hot, sooo, ...I did check with an IR temp gauge and maximum temp I saw was 220F and the in dash gauge was right at edge of going to red. But that was last week before I had the coolant levels dialed in/burped and the water/smog pump belt slightly tightened.
And, I discovered why rear wiper washer wasn't delivering any fluid, the car paint shop appear to have cut the hose. It was quite hard and brittle so I think I'll just replace the whole kit and kaboodle but that ca wait. Also, we noticed since ethe exhaust pipe hangs quite high a fair amount of condensation is/has been building up inside the left side of the rear bumper. Aside from the rust factor, would that amount of blockage need to be addressed?
Sorry for the novella.
When hot, if you lift the gas pedal up with your foot does the idle go back to normal? Two 60's I've had got sticky throttle linkage with temperature.
- Thread starter
- #195
Yeah, that was part of my thinking too, and no, I've even tried 'pulling up/back' and tapping on the gas pedal. What I haven't done yet is to determine what causes it to jump from ~700 to 1100. My assumption was heat build up but it switches up to 1100 pretty much immediately after driving it. I tried letting it sit idling for 10-15 minutes after first starting and it stays at 700 until I start driving it.
DFXR
SILVER Star
Any chance that this spring hanger (see pic) is bent? It should be plumb and level, *unlike* in the photo. If the carb has been off and back on anytime in recent history, this bend can happen very easily.
It may not be your problem, but it's my stock answer for anyone with a carb'ed 2F that is having mysterious hot high idle issues.
I chased a hot high idle for a long time before I figured this out. It does not have to be as dramatic as the bend in the picture for it to have an effect.
It may not be your problem, but it's my stock answer for anyone with a carb'ed 2F that is having mysterious hot high idle issues.
I chased a hot high idle for a long time before I figured this out. It does not have to be as dramatic as the bend in the picture for it to have an effect.
- Thread starter
- #197
Thanks much, I'll check in the morning.
