OK, sorted....I should have started with the easy stuff first but checked the tow plug and saw it wasn't getting any juice so checked the brake switch and discovered one small spade clip had worked itself loose or might have been jostled loose when adjusting my
@TRAIL TAILOR floor mats.
During the discovery phase, I met one of my next door neighbors who was curious and wanted to help (which is good because one of the other next door neighbors has already complained twice when I let her run more than 1 minute). Old Land Cruisers bringing about world peace, one neighbor at a time. Turns out he has a Mercedes old timer.
So then I wanted to tackle the occasional high idle/hesitancy/dieseling.
What I know:
- she starts cold easily enough, just a couple of gas pedal pumps or half choke and then idles like below as expected at ~700 RPM
Then, after driving, and warmed up, she won't idle below 1K RPM, usually 1.1K RPM and off and on will run quite hot which is when the hesitancy and dieseling starts. I think I've dialed in the coolant level so that she's not burping through the overflow jug now.
A couple of things.
- I don't hear any click when I turn the ignition one position
- No increase in idle when I cut on the AC (see above?)
- She is de-smogged but most everything left intact to fool the TUV inspectors (I am considering the ManFre pulley replacement to neaten things up and to make sure water pump belt tension is correct). When I tighten that belt to what I think is proper tension, I get squealing from the smog pump. I loosened it a bit and I can see the water pump is turning.
- Runs *mostly* OK with the exception of the above-mentioned hesitancy/dieseling but that seems to only happen when hot, sooo, ...I did check with an IR temp gauge and maximum temp I saw was 220F and the in dash gauge was right at edge of going to red. But that was last week before I had the coolant levels dialed in/burped and the water/smog pump belt slightly tightened.
And, I discovered why rear wiper washer wasn't delivering any fluid, the car paint shop appear to have cut the hose. It was quite hard and brittle so I think I'll just replace the whole kit and kaboodle but that ca wait. Also, we noticed since ethe exhaust pipe hangs quite high a fair amount of condensation is/has been building up inside the left side of the rear bumper. Aside from the rust factor, would that amount of blockage need to be addressed?
Sorry for the novella.