Builds 86 4runner build (1 Viewer)

[Gumby]

Motors in. It’s a smidge high in the front. There’s not much space behind the head. I might have to clearance a little firewall for the egr crossover and wiring harness is not going to clear the heater core inlet.

I drilled all the spot welds out of the 3rd gen battery tray. Looks like it’ll fit nice in the same spot on the 1st. Might drill out the 1st gen tray out too to make more room for the air box.

Drilled the spot welds out of the clutch line bracket. I needed to clear the exhaust and I’ll reuse it on the other side.

Primed and painted all the black stuff in the engine bay.

Bolted everything to the engine that wouldn’t be in the way of the motor mounts or bell housing bolts.

Toyonlyswaps oil pan showed up about 2. Drilled out the plug for the dipstick. Bolted up the pickup. Bolted up the pan. Drilled the motor mount for a bolt and boltied in the new dipstick tube. Kit did not come with a drain pan bolt so old bolt with new gasket.

Pulled the motor off the stand. New rear main seal. There’s a plate on the 3rz between the engine and the bell housing. Can’t leave it off. New flywheel with new OEM bolts. New clutch kit. Pressure plate bolts to 14 ft-lbs. Pulled the motor mounts off the frame side to give some room and stabbed that bitch in. Damn I hate getting a clutch lined up with an input shaft alone and without a tilter. I thought I had one. Couldn’t find it.

It would have been way worse with intake and exhaust manifolds on.

 

[pappy]

I drilled all the spot welds out of the 3rd gen battery tray. Looks like it’ll fit nice in the same spot on the 1st. Might drill out the 1st gen tray out too to make more room for the air box.

Drilled the spot welds out of the clutch line bracket. I needed to clear the exhaust and I’ll reuse it on the other side.

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Ideas stolen. Thanks. Question. Would the Gen1 tray work on the other side?

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Damn I hate getting a clutch lined up with an input shaft alone and without a tilter.

Ummm, so it's not just me. Lining up the pilot bearing sucks.

 

[Gumby]

I don't think you can use the 1st gen tray on the left side. I'll look though.

Edit - It came out pretty bent, but doubt it.

 

[Pacer]

Motors in. It’s a smidge high in the front. There’s not much space behind the head. I might have to clearance a little firewall for the egr crossover and wiring harness is not going to clear the heater core inlet.

I drilled all the spot welds out of the 3rd gen battery tray. Looks like it’ll fit nice in the same spot on the 1st. Might drill out the 1st gen tray out too to make more room for the air box.

Drilled the spot welds out of the clutch line bracket. I needed to clear the exhaust and I’ll reuse it on the other side.

Primed and painted all the black stuff in the engine bay.

Bolted everything to the engine that wouldn’t be in the way of the motor mounts or bell housing bolts.

Toyonlyswaps oil pan showed up about 2. Drilled out the plug for the dipstick. Bolted up the pickup. Bolted up the pan. Drilled the motor mount for a bolt and boltied in the new dipstick tube. Kit did not come with a drain pan bolt so old bolt with new gasket.

Pulled the motor off the stand. New rear main seal. There’s a plate on the 3rz between the engine and the bell housing. Can’t leave it off. New flywheel with new OEM bolts. New clutch kit. Pressure plate bolts to 14 ft-lbs. Pulled the motor mounts off the frame side to give some room and stabbed that bitch in. Damn I hate getting a clutch lined up with an input shaft alone and without a tilter. I thought I had one. Couldn’t find it.

It would have been way worse with intake and exhaust manifolds on.

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Way to get that done! Moving right along, smoky donuts in your near future!

 

[pappy]

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So educate me. What is the sensor mounted to the back of the cylinder head?

 

[Gumby]

It’s a coolant tube, so the ECT, I imagine. There a single wire sensor on the water inlet housing I imagine is for the gauge.

 

[Gumby]

lots of little stuff in a short day. Welded in the battery tray. Found I’m going to need a shorter battery, but that’s easy and it looks clean. Drilled out the old battery tray. Still not enough room for the air box, but it fits really nice so I will probably modify the old air box and not just go with a cone. Bolted in the starter and looked where to put the 3rd gen relay box. It fits like it was made to be right by the battery. The tank vent canister fits nicely between the relay box and the clutch master.

EGR is gonna be tight. If I delete it, then I might use the 1st gen charcoal canister, since I’ll have a constant code anyway. I’m going to try and keep both.

Wire harness fits behind the head fine without the big plastic cover. Intake is really close to the 3rd gen booster. Heater valve might be challenging. I checked this morning and there’s no room to drop the front of the engine. It’s right where it needs to be.

Used the 3rd gen high pressure power steering hose. Just cut the fitting off of the steering box end of both hoses, put the flare nut on the 3rd gen hose and flared the end.

Bolted on the lower intake. It’s a bit harder to get at the bolts in the truck, but worth it to not fight it when putting it in and way easier to do the wiring, starter and coolant bypass tube with it out.

 

[pappy]

Heater valve might be challenging. I checked this morning and there’s no room to drop the front of the engine. It’s right where it needs to be.

There was a solution to the heater valve. I think liveoak might have mentioned it. The valve from a newer truck is much smaller. I think I harvested mine from a early 90's truck.

 

[Gumby]

And the motor is back out.

I went to turn the engine over and it wouldn't budge. The crank pulley had forced the oil pump gears into the timing cover, broken it and was pressing the broken part into the front of the main. When I installed it the first time I lined up the crank pulley, turned it with just a little pressure, felt it engage the oil pump. It slid in another inch or so with no resistance, then turned it until it lined up with the key and tightened it down. Something went kitty-wampus.

found a new timing cover used. Ordered a timing kit because it's apart. There is some minor wear on the guides. The process for measuring the chain requires it to come off, so I'm just going to replace it all. New oil pump, both new chains, both adjusters, all the guides.

sum bitch.

 

[Gumby]

Everything came in early. Got the new timing chains on, used timing cover, and new oil pump.

 

[Gumby]

Timing chain kit came with both chains, both tensioners, 5 guides, both gears and gaskets.

 

[Gumby]

Took the dipstick plug out of the front cover, drilled and tapped it for an m8x1.25 and ran an Allen bolt into the hole.

 

[Gumby]

Dropped the motor back in.

 

[pappy]

Well, you just answered one of my mystery questions. Now I know what the spring thing on the resonator is for.

 

[onemanarmy]

That coolant temp sensor for the computer that is on the back of the engine can be a pain sometimes and cause a no start condition when it's heat soaked.

I usually have issues with mine when I cut it off and leave it for 10-15 mins (grocery trip or similar)...cranks but no start, not until it cools down a bit more. It's not a problem everytime, and not all 3rz swaps are affected , just a FYI.

 

[Gumby]

Good to know. It's pretty close to the firewall and directly above the EGR crossover pipe.

One of the big things I'm hoping to fix with this swap is the hot re-start problem with the cold start injector that goes bad and is unobtainium on the 22re

 

[Gumby]

Throttle body gasket I got turned out to be for a 5vz. I had bought some gasket material for the bypass tube gasket. I used the hammer method to make the gasket then used leather hole punches to make the bolt holes. I got the leather punches for making gaskets. I used to use empty cartridges, but I couldn’t keep them in my desk at school after Columbine. The punches were cheap and work really well.

Had to re-pin a couple plugs.

Steadily working down the list.

 

[Grouseman]

Gums,

Are you going get a Canback or Canvas Topper for it.? You Should.

Gman

 

[Gumby]

I should, but I probably won’t right away. Not in the budget.

 

[Gumby]

It runs. Been steadily running through the punch list. Mostly chasing wiring. My April of 86 truck seems to have some differences with both pre and post May/86 rigs.
Brake lights are on. The signal wire to the eco for the cruise must be shorted to power.
After it fired for a second I checked the oil, it was full on the dipstick before and low after so it’s pumping oil. I can see fresh oil through the fill hole too so I’m confident it has oil presssure. The light is not wired yet.
Big issue still is I need to build the exhaust.

Feeling good about progress this weekend.