Hopefully this week I will get my Canback on. If so I will send pictures.
Builds 86 4runner build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #102
Spend the afternoon mostly building a pipe between the upstream O2 and the muffler. It’s tight between the transfer case and the frame, then cuts across the output shaft and back to the old muffler. Had to lose my cat. Thinking about using a Bosch O2 with a 1microfarad cap as an emulator somewhere down the pipe.
A Bosche one with a 14mm thread. Weld in bungs are cheap and the sensors are way cheaper than Toyota.
A Bosche one with a 14mm thread. Weld in bungs are cheap and the sensors are way cheaper than Toyota.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #103
I think I'm all wired up, except for the AC and cruise control options I'd like to use as some point. Runs, but won't stay running. Plugs show very rich. Could really be anything. My HP Tuners software is communicating with the PCM, but wont give me values. I'm not sure that's not a software issue as it is a GM specific version of HPTuners. I don't know if it can be used to read generic codes. The OBDII dongle for the Torque app on my phone is in my brothers truck so I can't even use that. I'll bring home a scan tool from work today and see what I can see.
Just tedious buttoning up now.
Just tedious buttoning up now.
Last edited:
Hopefully it's something easy. Pics?
2ndGenToyotaFan
Moderator
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 264
- Messages
- 9,805
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
Good progress!!!!! Fingers crossed that you can resolve it soon!
- Thread starter
- #106
Well, the scan tool is doing the same thing as the HPTuners software. It communicates with the PCM to get information from the PCM, but then no datastream. It will access mode 1 and recognize the engine, year and body, but it wont access other modes. i need to test the pcm pin by pin now to make sure i have proper power and grounds.
Its cold out in the shop for April. Tough to get motivated to do anything in the evening. Not worth heating up the whole shop for an hour or so.
Its cold out in the shop for April. Tough to get motivated to do anything in the evening. Not worth heating up the whole shop for an hour or so.
- Thread starter
- #107
Runs. I was checking the pins on the circuit open relay and when I grounded the air valve wire with the test light the fuel pump kicked on. After that it started and ran great. I ran a constant power to the DLC instead of ign and it started giving me data. Start signal to the pcm wasn’t working. Traced that down to a wiring difference between 5/86 and early 86. Started cleaning up the harness and running wires to the rear window switch, subwoofer and fog lights from the 3rz fuse box. Put the inner fender wells back on.
Took the crossover pipe back out to weld on v-clamps so I can drop it easy to service the transfer case. I need to weld in a bung for the downstream O2 as well.
Took the crossover pipe back out to weld on v-clamps so I can drop it easy to service the transfer case. I need to weld in a bung for the downstream O2 as well.
Last edited:
DLC = ???
- Thread starter
- #109
Diagnostic link connector. The OBDII 16 pin port.
Really not sure why ignition voltage would be different than constant, but it made it not work right.
Really not sure why ignition voltage would be different than constant, but it made it not work right.
2ndGenToyotaFan
Moderator
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 264
- Messages
- 9,805
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
Way to go! 
- Thread starter
- #111
ABIGAIL 234-4162
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788CB1J2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
O2 sensor with 14mm thread, Toyota plug and adapter to go from Toyota flange to 14mm thread.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788CB1J2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
O2 sensor with 14mm thread, Toyota plug and adapter to go from Toyota flange to 14mm thread.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #112
Got that pipe all wrapped in "titanium" exhaust wrap and installed.
Then we had a mid-april ice storm that turned into 2 inches of snow, but I went ahead and drove it down the road on Sunday anyway. Had to put it in 4wd just to get it out of the shop
when it got warm the exhaust started steaming bad right at the front joint. Fortunately, it wasn't coolant in the exhaust. It was leaking onto the exhaust through a drain hole in the floor. The heater core is shot. It had clearly been bad for a while and the jiggling putting hoses on and off got it leaking badly.
So the dash came out. The good part is I can clean up all the wiring and get it all tucked up and I can service the AC while its all apart.
If you need a heater core - there are two. With rear heat and without. The with is more available and cheaper. If you don't have rear heat, like me, then you need to get the one with the long tubes coming out, not the one with just stubs.
Then we had a mid-april ice storm that turned into 2 inches of snow, but I went ahead and drove it down the road on Sunday anyway. Had to put it in 4wd just to get it out of the shop
when it got warm the exhaust started steaming bad right at the front joint. Fortunately, it wasn't coolant in the exhaust. It was leaking onto the exhaust through a drain hole in the floor. The heater core is shot. It had clearly been bad for a while and the jiggling putting hoses on and off got it leaking badly.
So the dash came out. The good part is I can clean up all the wiring and get it all tucked up and I can service the AC while its all apart.
If you need a heater core - there are two. With rear heat and without. The with is more available and cheaper. If you don't have rear heat, like me, then you need to get the one with the long tubes coming out, not the one with just stubs.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #113
I also found I wasn't charging.
A good thing about putting the 3VZ power distribution center next to the battery on the left side is that it reaches nice to the starter and the alternator. It also leaves the wires right by the wires that need to be hooked up for the charging system. The wiring for both trucks are the same and even use mostly the same color wires. The 4 wire round plug on the 1st gen that goes down to the alternator can be used for the yellow and red wires to excite the field and work the dash light. They get wired to the Y-G and R-blue wires coming out of the power distribution center. Use a continuity tester to make sure you have the right ones. You need continuity from the alternator plug to those wires. The ALt and ALT-S fuses and white wires are all in the power dist center and it's wiring.
A good thing about putting the 3VZ power distribution center next to the battery on the left side is that it reaches nice to the starter and the alternator. It also leaves the wires right by the wires that need to be hooked up for the charging system. The wiring for both trucks are the same and even use mostly the same color wires. The 4 wire round plug on the 1st gen that goes down to the alternator can be used for the yellow and red wires to excite the field and work the dash light. They get wired to the Y-G and R-blue wires coming out of the power distribution center. Use a continuity tester to make sure you have the right ones. You need continuity from the alternator plug to those wires. The ALt and ALT-S fuses and white wires are all in the power dist center and it's wiring.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #114
Maybe not so easy on the heater core. I got one for no rear heat and with ac. It’s different. I need one with longer hard lines or just hard lines to solder to a new core.
- Thread starter
- #115
Looks like these are the tubes I need. Upper middle of the bottom pic The fische doesn't even have parts numbers listed. Im going to try to braze and sleeve the pipe today. Any clue where to get these?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #116
- Thread starter
- #117
Dash got back together ok, but the oil light was still on. Bought a switch for the light, but checked the 3rd gen cluster before I wired it in. It had a light too. Checked the wire at the switch and it had power. Grounded it and the light went out. Really bad news. Pulled the engine back out. Replaced the rod and main bearings. Crank was fine. Chucked it up in the lathe and polished it up. Primed the pump as described on the internets. Poured oil down the pick up tube while rotating the pump. The poster turns it with a screwdriver. I used the pulley not engaged with the crank key. Oil came out the filter housing. Turned the engine upright on the stand and installed a new filled filter. Turned it back over and poured and cranked until oil came out of the sending unit hole which is downstream from the filter. Reassembled and reinstalled.
Pulled the plugs and cranked the engine. No oil pressure. Pulled the pump. Nothing wrong. Slobbered it up with assembly lube to help prime. Nothing. Drained the oil and refilled through the sending unit hole with a pressure pot. No oil pressure when cranked.
Pulled the engine.
Found a gap between the pick up tube and front cover where it was sucking air. Pickup was bent during shipping or on the shelf somewhere. Straightened it out. Sealed it. Reinstalled engine. No start. It was flooding. Forgot the impossible to get to ECT plug. Got it in. Need to try and relocate it.
Starts, runs, drives with oil pressure. Just a little buttoning up. Plan to drive it to work Wednesday.
Pulled the plugs and cranked the engine. No oil pressure. Pulled the pump. Nothing wrong. Slobbered it up with assembly lube to help prime. Nothing. Drained the oil and refilled through the sending unit hole with a pressure pot. No oil pressure when cranked.
Pulled the engine.
Found a gap between the pick up tube and front cover where it was sucking air. Pickup was bent during shipping or on the shelf somewhere. Straightened it out. Sealed it. Reinstalled engine. No start. It was flooding. Forgot the impossible to get to ECT plug. Got it in. Need to try and relocate it.
Starts, runs, drives with oil pressure. Just a little buttoning up. Plan to drive it to work Wednesday.
2ndGenToyotaFan
Moderator
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 264
- Messages
- 9,805
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
Woof! Tough little problem!
- Thread starter
- #119
Yeah. sucked a lot. Pushed back my completion date by about a month and well into nice weather. Also, I need to get my rock crawler, trailer and tow rig all ready to go for the summer.
