Builds ‘82 FJ45 build thread..... no name yet (1 Viewer)

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That's quite the transformation. Looks great. I just noticed that your rear axle doesn't go through the hub a few inches like your front. Mine go through front and back (full float I presume). It is a 12/82 (83 model), Saudi spec. I would have assumed they would be the same? I am not an expert on axles though.

Nice match on the color as well. What did you use?

Edit: So I just looked at the parts diagrams and it appears the General countries 80-84 were the same and they show both semi floating and full floating. Interesting that you would find both options in Saudi. They aren't usually that adventurous.


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That's quite the transformation. Looks great. I just noticed that your rear axle doesn't go through the hub a few inches like your front. Mine go through front and back (full float I presume). It is a 12/82 (83 model), Saudi spec. I would have assumed they would be the same? I am not an expert on axles though.

Nice match on the color as well. What did you use?

Edit: So I just looked at the parts diagrams and it appears the General countries 80-84 were the same and they show both semi floating and full floating. Interesting that you would find both options in Saudi. They aren't usually that adventurous.


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Thanks, I could not make up my mind on the New wheel and tire combo, and I was shocked by the current price and scarcity of options so that prompted me to hold off on that decision and make do with what I had. A couple hours work in a few rattle cans of battleship gray paint was all it took…… oh yeah and quite a bit of tire black😜

Interesting about the axle, my production date was April 1982 not sure if that mattered. But given the past life of this vehicle who knows what has been cobbled together from other donors
 
looking really sharp

your work is tite

nice ..........:)
Mucho Gracias- and thanks again for all the expert advice you have provided
 
Thanks, I could not make up my mind on the New wheel and tire combo, and I was shocked by the current price and scarcity of options so that prompted me to hold off on that decision and make do with what I had. A couple hours work in a few rattle cans of battleship gray paint was all it took…… oh yeah and quite a bit of tire black😜

Interesting about the axle, my production date was April 1982 not sure if that mattered. But given the past life of this vehicle who knows what has been cobbled together from other donors
FWIW I plan on keeping the splits. In fact I bought a brand new one for the spare. I would like to buy new retaining rings though as mine are a bit dinged up here and there. They are showing available from Megazip in Japan. Price is OK but shipping basically doubles the price - I guess they are heavy.

No difference in the axle choices from 1980 to 1984. Of course, as you say, that axle could have started off under a 40. Again, it's showing semi-float as an option so could be original.
 
FWIW I plan on keeping the splits. In fact I bought a brand new one for the spare. I would like to buy new retaining rings though as mine are a bit dinged up here and there. They are showing available from Megazip in Japan. Price is OK but shipping basically doubles the price - I guess they are heavy.

No difference in the axle choices from 1980 to 1984. Of course, as you say, that axle could have started off under a 40. Again, it's showing semi-float as an option so could be original.
I forgot to include the wheel paint I used ( I was very happy with the matching)
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Chasing quite a few bugs right now. The brake system continues to be squishy so I need to step away from that project for a little bit and clear my head. I also had a very rough idle and confirmed a bad vacuum leak around the intake manifold. I loose and all of the bolts this morning and then re-torque them from the center hours and that seem to help a little bit.

Now she has five matching shoes I picked up a huge spare and luckily had a matching wheel to mount it on. That was the first time I swapped out a tire on a split rim. Surprisingly not that hard just a little unnerving to bang on that rim. I found a great two minute video that showed how to do it.

Last but not least before I called it a day actually took it out on the road for the first time in 2 1/2 years just a quarter-mile up and down the side street but that sure felt good.
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FWIW I plan on keeping the splits. In fact I bought a brand new one for the spare. I would like to buy new retaining rings though as mine are a bit dinged up here and there. They are showing available from Megazip in Japan. Price is OK but shipping basically doubles the price - I guess they are heavy.

Now she has five matching shoes I picked up a huge spare and luckily had a matching wheel to mount it on. That was the first time I swapped out a tire on a split rim. Surprisingly not that hard just a little unnerving to bang on that rim. I found a great two minute video that showed how to do it.

My 40 still has splits... have been driving on them 8 years now, no issues. And I've broken the bead and swapped out tires as well on a set and it's definitely not that hard. These are not the horror-story industrial rims everyone is afraid of... they are very user serviceable.

And they are VERY heavy compared to a welded rim.
 
I took the class on a field trip today. Loaded her up to drive to my favorite muffler shop these guys do a fantastic job real craftsman and always a fair price and right on schedule. They didn’t have much to work with but they laid it out as close to spec as possible.

I should have timed it better my 21&1/2 year old suburban finished the 80 mile round trip with 299,985 miles on the clock - what better way to turn over to 300 K been hauling an old Warhorse into the shop
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I believe that your shackle may be on backwards. That tab should aim the other way.
 
I took the class on a field trip today. Loaded her up to drive to my favorite muffler shop these guys do a fantastic job real craftsman and always a fair price and right on schedule. They didn’t have much to work with but they laid it out as close to spec as possible.

I should have timed it better my 21&1/2 year old suburban finished the 80 mile round trip with 299,985 miles on the clock - what better way to turn over to 300 K been hauling an old Warhorse into the shop
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Who's your muffler guy... I'm always looking for a good reference here in the Valley.
 
Who's your muffler guy... I'm always looking for a good reference here in the Valley.
Scottsdale Muffler, in Tempe. Nice family business. I live in Casa Grande, not a single Exhaust shop nearby, but these guys are worth the drive
 
What happened to your original exhaust? Working on finding stock style exhaust the runs outside the frame from the cowl then runs back to the inside in front of the rear axle. Very helpful running a factory PTO winch. Even old exhaust with rust can be helpful in having new exhaust made.
 
What happened to your original exhaust? Working on finding stock style exhaust the runs outside the frame from the cowl then runs back to the inside in front of the rear axle. Very helpful running a factory PTO winch. Even old exhaust with rust can be helpful in having new exhaust made.
I put the old exhaust back in place for the shop to get an idea. The original exhaust headers spliced and patched burying diameter of pipes in about three or four different locations and no suitable hangers. I also gave them a print out of the parts diagram

The photo I attached didn’t show it but they did run outside of the rail as the original
 
I put the old exhaust back in place for the shop to get an idea. The original exhaust headers spliced and patched burying diameter of pipes in about three or four different locations and no suitable hangers. I also gave them a print out of the parts diagram

The photo I attached didn’t show it but they did run outside of the rail as the original


Was the original exhaust similar to this at the front?
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Friend found this aftermarket one in Tasmania. Until I can get it from Australia wouldn't know if it will clear the steering box. Not an issue with RHD so may not have followed the OEM part exactly.
 
Just gone thru your thread. Very nice work, the cabin location looks killer as well.

I have a question for you regarding the wiring - how did you integrate the painless harness to the turn signal/ignition switches? Did you use matching harness plugs from the original harness to make it work? My orignal harness is long gone, and I'm pondering what to do with the signal/ignition switches in my FJ40.

Thanks.
 
Just gone thru your thread. Very nice work, the cabin location looks killer as well.

I have a question for you regarding the wiring - how did you integrate the painless harness to the turn signal/ignition switches? Did you use matching harness plugs from the original harness to make it work? My orignal harness is long gone, and I'm pondering what to do with the signal/ignition switches in my FJ40.

Thanks.
Howdy and thanks ( will be heading back to ID in 60 days - so I better hustle)

I tried to remove and reuse the factory harness connectors, but could not get them apart. So for those conectioin points I just used painless supplied female connectors. I did not worry about it too much since it is all tucked under the dash.

I had to replace the entire harness because of the countless patches. I was completly impressed with the painless harness

Good luck
 
Howdy and thanks ( will be heading back to ID in 60 days - so I better hustle)

I tried to remove and reuse the factory harness connectors, but could not get them apart. So for those conectioin points I just used painless supplied female connectors. I did not worry about it too much since it is all tucked under the dash.

I had to replace the entire harness because of the countless patches. I was completly impressed with the painless harness

Good luck
Thank you for the quick reply.

I'm using American Autowire harness kit, and they supply GM type connectors (guess I just use them).

Thanks again.
 
It has been a challenging couple of weeks while waiting for parts and having unexpected problems to solve it slowly making progress. The brakes have been bled and bled and bled but still have a soft pedal after a new master cylinder and adjustment of the drums all around plus a few leaks discovered.

I did receive the replacement slider glass from the local glass shop and they did a very nice job when I looked at their sample in the show room it was crystal clear and did stand out against the factory window however after the tempering process it appears to have darkened a little bit and I was a really good match. I have the final window set installed and I’m just waiting for the latch to arrive from the UAE.

Today I did an oil change since I had some residual coolant in there from the frost plug fiasco, I had only run it a total of 20 or 30 minutes so hopefully I got all the damaging fluid out. I’ll keep an eye on it to make sure it stays clean.

This morning I spent tuning it up. Check the valves again While hot and they were still in very good condition. Got the timing properly, gapped the points, then hooked up the vacuum gauge to adjust the carburetor. And set the idle speed. Took it out for a test drive and it had good power however the idol is still a bit rough I may have a vacuum leak or a carb issue to chase down.
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