80 series Slinky/ICON Long Travel Suspension officially coming to the U.S.A.

[Lankan]

Think before people try the coils they should try a rig with fox, King or icon shocks instead of OME.

This would be the best case scenario, but it would take a lot of patience and time to meet up with and get rides in vehicles with different set-ups. Would be nice to have a team of rigs, set-up with different suspension, on a road tour with a pre-fab obstacle course!! Wishful thinking

 

[Qball]

megolfer, do you have a link?

Found them:
You searched for Slinky - Red Line Land Cruisers

But at 2k for just 4 springs and 2.0 shocks are a little too rich for my blood given I only gain 2-3 inch droop and unknown riding charataristics. Dang each shock/spring averages out to be 250 a pop? So the springs are 300 a pop?

 

[Qball]

This would be the best case scenario, but it would take a lot of patience and time to meet up with and get rides in vehicles with different set-ups. Would be nice to have a team of rigs, set-up with different suspension, on a road tour with a pre-fab obstacle course!! Wishful thinking

That's why come and join some local rides and try different rigs.

Or if you don't feel like being social, get the fox 2.0 shocks. They are 500 shipped and can always resell, that's way better than dropping couple of grand on trying something.

 

[nuclearlemon]

just by switch to the cheap fox 2.0 will transform the ride. They are literally night and day better than the garbage OME shocks. BTW don't get adjustable shocks because extreme few knows how to adjust them properly, and settings are different for different terrain which takes time to dial in. .

i don't know where you got your fox shocks, but mine were flat out scary. i got them from downsouth and told them it was a fully laden 80 with 300lbs on the roof, but they must've mistaken a land cruiser for a scion. the ome's that the foxes were replacing fell apart when i took them off, but they still controlled the ride 100x better than my fox shocks.

 

[Qball]

i don't know where you got your fox shocks, but mine were flat out scary. i got them from downsouth and told them it was a fully laden 80 with 300lbs on the roof, but they must've mistaken a land cruiser for a scion. the ome's that the foxes were replacing fell apart when i took them off, but they still controlled the ride 100x better than my fox shocks.

Maybe somehow the order got jacked up, mine is from down south too. Mine rides pretty damn good both on and off of the road. No issues with big Brake bumps at 30 mph, don't even feel them. Biggest improvement is rebound and big dips do buck anymore.

 

[Box Rocket]

I can't agree with the notion that only racers need adjustability. It can be extremely useful for the average person too.
For example, the weight my 80 carries changes varies a lot. There are times I'm solo with nothing more than my basic tool set. Other times I have my wife, 4 kids and a dog in the truck, a fridge in truck, a rooftop tent on the rack and pulling my trailer. Or any combination in between.
The adjustability of the shocks would make a dramatic difference with a softer setting when I'm solo and packed light.
With all the extra weight, the option to stiffen them up makes travel much safer when you can limit body roll, keeping the truck off the bump stops etc.
Non adjustable shocks are tuned to accommodate an average but you inevitably sacrifice performance on the extremes of the performance range.

 

[GW Nugget]

i don't know where you got your fox shocks, but mine were flat out scary. i got them from downsouth and told them it was a fully laden 80 with 300lbs on the roof, but they must've mistaken a land cruiser for a scion. the ome's that the foxes were replacing fell apart when i took them off, but they still controlled the ride 100x better than my fox shocks.

This is the 1st negitive comment I've heard about the Fox shocks, ever. Something went wrong with your order. Did you send them back to get re-valved or try it yourself?

 

[Qball]

I can't agree with the notion that only racers need adjustability. It can be extremely useful for the average person too.
For example, the weight my 80 carries changes varies a lot. There are times I'm solo with nothing more than my basic tool set. Other times I have my wife, 4 kids and a dog in the truck, a fridge in truck, a rooftop tent on the rack and pulling my trailer. Or any combination in between.
The adjustability of the shocks would make a dramatic difference with a softer setting when I'm solo and packed light.
With all the extra weight, the option to stiffen them up makes travel much safer when you can limit body roll, keeping the truck off the bump stops etc.
Non adjustable shocks are tuned to accommodate an average but you inevitably sacrifice performance on the extremes of the performance range.

Don't disagree, you obviously use it more any average person who are fine with average setting. Some time adjustability could be a problem when someone don't know how to adjust and end up with crapy ride and blame the shocks for it.

Let's see who knows the proper approach for adjust compression and rebound?

 

[Shoredreamer]

Considering the market (crazy American 80 owners) and the intended use (overland, loaded travel) and the price point, I would expect no less than adjustable high and low compression and rebound, rebuildability, and valving guidelines.

 

[Qball]

Considering the market (crazy American 80 owners) and the intended use (overland, loaded travel) and the price point, I would expect no less than adjustable high and low compression and rebound, rebuildability, and valving guidelines.

LOL

Usually shocks of that caliber are rebuilt every race! high end shocks require far more often high end rebuilds.


Again does anyone even know the exact procedure and approach on tuning shocks? How to set proper compression and rebound? Then you throw in high and low speed.....how many people even know what they are for? For the overland crowd I say maybe 0.1%


Then on top of all that adjustments all they want to do is set it and forget for next 100k miles......right.

 

[1973Guppie]

Not saying slinky is bad but it seems to me that a lot of people rush to an expensive setup without understanding what makes a suspension good and most of us don't need that level of performance.

No matter how expensive or great of a product is without proper setup it's garbage anyways. If I put too much weight on my Tjm progressive springs they are then terrible. If you put right amount of weight in OME springs they also are butter smooth, I had both. Slee springs are great BUT you need extra weight or they also are very stiff. I can't stress this enough if you don't need extreme performance(100 miles of high speed desert run, or extreme articulation for rock crawling) just by switch to the cheap fox 2.0 will transform the ride. They are literally night and day better than the garbage OME shocks. BTW don't get adjustable shocks because extreme few knows how to adjust them properly, and settings are different for different terrain which takes time to dial in. Only racers trying to get max speed for specific course really need adjustability.

That being said I'm also tempted to get the slinky coils just to get get a bit more droop but it all depends on the price.

I do need new shocks eventually. Do you have any part info on which fox shocks would fit a OME J heavy 3 inch lift spring? thx....

 

[LFD2037]

I was really wanting to do the Slinky/Icon set but I absolutely refuse to pay $333 for EACH spring.

 

[DylanICON]

LOL


Again does anyone even know the exact procedure and approach on tuning shocks? How to set proper compression and rebound? Then you throw in high and low speed.....how many people even know what they are for? For the overland crowd I say maybe 0.1%


Then on top of all that adjustments all they want to do is set it and forget for next 100k miles......right.

This is a good point. It can get confusing


we make a triple bypass 3.0 for the Ford Raptor and most people have a hard time even relaying what it feels like or distinguishing compression problems from rebound problems let alone dialing it in. So we have a recommended settings chart for a couple different scenarios so you can always get back to a back a base line
see page 3 below
http://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/I95201_REVB.pdf



the CDC shocks have 1 knob with 10 settings that controls compression only. Rebound is set internally and once we have tuned it for the vehicle is less of a "personal preference" then compression (although if you wish you can revalve this internally)

the adjuster internals have a high speed blow off valve so you cant over do it on high speed valving and the knob mostly effects low and mid speed. you cant really screw it up, if you want it smother put it on S, if you want to drive hard or are loaded put it on H. 4 is calibrated to be the same as the non adjustable version so you can go both harder and softer.

 

[Qball]

This is a good point. It can get confusing


we make a triple bypass 3.0 for the Ford Raptor and most people have a hard time even relaying what it feels like or distinguishing compression problems from rebound problems let alone dialing it in. So we have a recommended settings chart for a couple different scenarios so you can always get back to a back a base line
see page 3 below
http://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/I95201_REVB.pdf



the CDC shocks have 1 knob with 10 settings that controls compression only. Rebound is set internally and once we have tuned it for the vehicle is less of a "personal preference" then compression (although if you wish you can revalve this internally)

the adjuster internals have a high speed blow off valve so you cant over do it on high speed valving and the knob mostly effects low and mid speed. you cant really screw it up, if you want it smother put it on S, if you want to drive hard or are loaded put it on H. 4 is calibrated to be the same as the non adjustable version so you can go both harder and softer.

Exactly! Most people don't even know the difference between compression and rebound. Of course for every type of terrain the ideal setting varies wildly depends on what you want to do. This is why those fancy adjustable shocks are best left to those rich racer boys who has a suspension guru on the team.

Couple of compression settings are already hard enough for most.

 

[Qball]

I do need new shocks eventually. Do you have any part info on which fox shocks would fit a OME J heavy 3 inch lift spring? thx....

Just check out down south motors, they have the 0-2 inch kit and 3-4 inch kit, you obviously want the 3-4 inch kit but be sure you have bump stop extensions and longer brake lines.

 

[Lankan]

I was really wanting to do the Slinky/Icon set but I absolutely refuse to pay $333 for EACH spring.

Where did you see this price?

 

[Qball]

Where did you see this price?

2000 for 4 springs and 4 2.0 shocks.

Where did you see this price?

The kit is $1975 for the cheapest version. Those icon 2.0 are generally 159 each or we can assume 200 each. So 1175/4=293.75 each!

Now since there are 50 and 75 mm kit.....does the 50 mm kit come with 0-2 inch lift shocks or 4 inch lift shocks? If it comes with 2 inch lift shocks then they are plain old pointless. If they come with 4 inch lift shocks then they are bit more interesting, I will gain 2 inch droop.....although all 4 of my springs are barely $100 more than 1 spring.

A little too rich for my blood. This goes back to my point of overlander crowd, we are simple folks with limited budget. Unlike the rich racer boys who don't mind blowing cash on suspension parts they use few times a summer, we use our suspension almost every day and have other things to buy like gas. I applaud making new products for the 80 market but this particular setup is priced well outside what most people is willing to pay for the gains most users here can't appreciate.


For folks in SoCal who have OME shocks, I'm more than willing to meet up at local offroad trail/park and let you tryout my el cheapo lift with fox shocks. Everyone tried my setup have been shocked(pun intended) on how nice it rides on and off of the road. Hell I'm shocked myself just about every time I go out.

 

[Lankan]

I did the math a little differently:

1) $1975 - 15% (group buy)= $1678.75
2) $1679 - $350 (This is a rough estimate of what SS lines, castor bushings, sway bar drop brackets, & bump stops would cost) = $1329
3) $1329 - $800 ($200/shock) = $529
4) $529/4 = $132.25/Spring

I was actually thinking it's more like $175/shock, so that would put the price of each spring @ $157.

Let me know if I messed up the numbers anywhere!

 

[Qball]

I did the math a little differently:

1) $1975 - 15% (group buy)= $1678.75
2) $1679 - $350 (This is a rough estimate of what SS lines, castor bushings, sway bar drop brackets, & bump stops would cost) = $1329
3) $1329 - $800 ($200/shock) = $529
4) $529/4 = $132.25/Spring

I was actually thinking it's more like $175/shock, so that would put the price of each spring @ $157.

Let me know if I messed up the numbers anywhere!

I didn't include the 15% group buy.

Also spacers are cheap and brake line simply states brake line so I would just get the right ones from Beno so no value added here. Caster kits are 120 on average.

Still too much money for poor little me.

Still not sure why they don't sell the springs by themselves. What if I want kings or fox, what if I already have shocks. Sorry redline, this is poor product packaging and marketing.

 

[vegastoy]

I did the math a little differently:

1) $1975 - 15% (group buy)= $1678.75
2) $1679 - $350 (This is a rough estimate of what SS lines, castor bushings, sway bar drop brackets, & bump stops would cost) = $1329
3) $1329 - $800 ($200/shock) = $529
4) $529/4 = $132.25/Spring

I was actually thinking it's more like $175/shock, so that would put the price of each spring @ $157.

Let me know if I messed up the numbers anywhere!

That's the math I used to justify the purchase. It works out well for someone who has not lifted yet and needs all the extras.