ARCHIVE 80 Series - Did you know? (2 Viewers)

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I'm pretty sure the trailer wiring harness was port/dealer installed. I sure as hell hope so because mine looked like it was installed by a 3 year old.
 
Things I've learned:
The glove box light will only work if the headlights or park lights are on.
Nearly all bolts are 1.25mm pitch.
The air filter can be washed and re-used. I bought mine from Cdan.
If you unlock the driver's door twice with the key, it unlocks all doors. Passenger key unlocks all at once.
If you remove the oil fill cap and set it upside-down, oil will flow off the threads and that oil will end up all over your valve cover later.
The power steering reservoir has a big o-ring at the top that will leak, but it can be resealed with FIPG and patience.
You can fix a 1996 and earlier power antenna with parts from a Camry. Cdan knows which parts you need.
You can remove the ugly trim from the roof gutters easily, and they don't look bad after a coat of wax.

Thanks for collecting all this info Joey!
 
Did you know that if you haven't extended your differential breathers and cross water you may need to change your differential fluids.

Did you know you need to check your Birfs for grease?

Did you know you can get new keys from any Toyota dealership if you provide your title and ID. This should be done if you notice your keys are having trouble opening doors or turning ignition. - Do this before you get stranded in the middle of now where and can't get your truck to start.

Did you know that if you can't get your truck to start and need to move the shifter into neutral you can remove that little square plastic piece in the front driver side area near the shifter - push down the button and then be able to move the shifter?

Did you know Toyota made the 80 series in Venezuela until 2008? (you'll need to double check those dates).
 
Did you know the probability of f*€king something up on your truck approaches 1 on a matrix with how many units of alcohol you've consumed?

Thus, it's probably best to hold off on step #6 until after the repair has been completed :rolleyes:.

Completely unrelated - @beno I think I need a new fan shroud :meh:.
 
Things I've learned:
The glove box light will only work if the headlights or park lights are on.

Thanks for collecting all this info Joey!

:doh:
 
Did all the 80s have that?
That's what I used when my "OEM" connecter went south. In the rear, you can buy a plug and play 4 pin that plugs right into the harness. Don't for the life of my understand why they hack the tail lights at the import docks.
 
Er, I'll need to check this because that doesn't sound right. Besides, weren't inspection plugs square to use an adjustable wrench?
They are either 10 or 12mm square, not 13.
 
Did you know the probability of f*€king something up on your truck approaches 1 on a matrix with how many units of alcohol you've consumed?

Thus, it's probably best to hold off on step #6 until after the repair has been completed :rolleyes:.
That last part, Sir, is probably the largest piece of :censor: Land Cruiser advice I've heard.:cheers:
 
Did you know that if you can't get your truck to start and need to move the shifter into neutral you can remove that little square plastic piece in the front driver side area near the shifter - push down the button and then be able to move the shifter?

Not sure when the stopped but my 92 80 has a "Shift Lock Release" button in front of the shifter lever. No removing of a piece of plastic necessary. :p
 
Stopped? You mean started. My 97 has the plastic plug ;)

Not sure when they started or stopped. Just know I don't have to pull a piece of plastic on mine.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1427665076.642282.jpg
 
They are either 10 or 12mm square, not 13.

Actually, you can use a 14mm, 12 point box end wrench on the square. I just did this the last time I topped them off. You get a real nice fit and it won't round off the corners. 4 points of contact instead of just 2. Try it.
 
24mm for front and read differential fluid.

15/16" is a bit tighter fit on the differential plugs. 0.938 vs 0.944 inches.

I've found a few places where SAE fits better, or sometimes "well enough". 7/8 is slightly bigger than 22mm, but if you're working on the power steering lines you may settle for a wrench you have over one you don't.
 
I guess you can add the screws are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) and not American phillips heads. If you haven't used a JIS screwdriver yet you are in for a treat when working on a Land Cruiser.
 
Didn't read the entire thread, thx for doing this (great improvement over how forums unintentionally scatter details to the digital winds), sorry if dups:

  • DYK - removing the two horizontally positioned screws (AKA the Screws of Death) that look like they're holding in the electrical connection to your MAF ('91 and '92, not sure if the FZJ's have the same) will tear apart the actual internals and leave you with a dysfunctional LC? You need to simply remove the binding clip that isn't visibly obvious until you look for it and the plug pulls right out - NO HARM DONE.
  • DYK - general baselining of your rig can sometimes require the removal and replacement of some components......and the original (somewhat brittle and tired) bolts can unexpectedly have their heads shared off when replacing under normal/specified torque. Recommendation - also replace the bolts with new while you're in there.....no fun trying to get headless bolts out of your block, structural channels, etc.
  • DYK - electrical wiring's conductivity can greatly diminish over time due to heat and corrosion? Negative leads can be inspected and replaced if found to be compromised. Engine starts, battery charging, etc. all greatly improve with good wiring.
  • DYK - cleaning corrosion, due to arcing, off of your window's master electrical switch (contacts and rockers for each window) can dramatically improve raising and lowering window times? While you're in there, BE CAREFUL not to remove the lockout/square plunger switch when doing this or you're in for a real treat trying to re-seat that little spring and the plunger switch itself - parts are SMALL and takes a good deal of patience to get it figured out.

More.....but back to work.....
 

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