$80/liter transfer case oil (2 Viewers)

[bicycleagent003]

yeah I bought it before all the Lexus plug stuff was posted. or I saw it anyway, oh well.. it's done and should be easy from now on for the annual service I normally do on my trucks (diffs are done annually on my other trucks, what's one more) - I did also finally get a Motive power Fill as well, should have bought this thing years ago. makes filling diffs, transfer boxes, etc a totally breeze.

Hey, which Motive Power Filler did you get? Is there one in particular which makes working with gear lube easy (ie- has a large hose out?) I jury rigged an old 5 quart oil jug with a Schrader valve on it and a hose coming out, to pressurize it and force gear oil out. It worked - until I overfilled it with pressured air and the jug exploded and gear oil went Everywhere. It was ridiculous. Fortunately, I had goggles and ear plugs in use, and was wearing overalls. Still, it was a ridiculous failure. I don't recommend trying that.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Read taco2cruiser post a few above these.

I have days where I'm smart, and days where I'm not... skipped around in the thread and missed the one directly above mine. Thanks for the redirect, good insight.

 

[rlynch356]

This is the one I use, it works great for the 200 and my LR's...

https://amzn.to/3tPlOWT

 

[bloc]

This worked perfectly for all 15qts of my recent ATF exchange. It will definitely be seeing duty for my transfer case and diffs.

Amazon product ASIN B07DCPMP4S

 

[bicycleagent003]

This worked perfectly for all 15qts of my recent ATF exchange. It will definitely be seeing duty for my transfer case and diffs.

Amazon product ASIN B07DCPMP4S

I have one of those I use for ATF, also, but it seems too weak for gear oil. Have you tried it for gear oil yet? I have a suspicion the viscosity will be too high for that little pump. Please post up your results. And thanks for that suggestion.

 

[bloc]

I have one of those I use for ATF, also, but it seems too weak for gear oil. Have you tried it for gear oil yet? I have a suspicion the viscosity will be too high for that little pump. Please post up your results. And thanks for that suggestion.

I have not.. but will give it a shot with some gear oil I have on the shelf in the next couple weeks and report back.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Ok….so I need 75w-90 for the diffs…probably Valvoline.

Does anyone have a link to what you recommend for the TC? I need to go ahead and get all of this in so I can do this when the weather gets cold….which is soon.

@bloc That is the same pump I have in my Amazon cart for when I do my transmission fluid change. Hoping it will push the TC/diff oil in as well.

 

[bloc]

Ok….so I need 75w-90 for the diffs…probably Valvoline.

Does anyone have a link to what you recommend for the TC? I need to go ahead and get all of this in so I can do this when the weather gets cold….which is soon.

@bloc That is the same pump I have in my Amazon cart for when I do my transmission fluid change. Hoping it will push the TC/diff oil in as well.

Tons of discussion on the TC options earlier in this thread.

 

[2001LC]

I kinda forgot about this thread until I recently saw it again.

2008-2010 transfer cases use 75-90 gear oil. In 2010 sometime they switched some parts in the transfer case to brass. GL-4 and 5 gear oil typically has limited slip additives in it.

Brass and limited slip additives don’t get along. That’s the issue.

Will your t-case grenade if you run it? Doubt it. If you do a tear down will you find pitting on the brass component, yep.

One of the t-case I replaced that was cracked in half from a rock hit was easy to inspect… ‘cause it was cracked in half. There’s not a ton, but some brass goodies in there. Anyway, brass was pitted pretty good. Also, pitting from a lubricant and pitting from metal slamming metal is very different. I asked the guy what oil he used in his 2013 and he said 75-90.

Take that as you will. If it were my t-case and the owner’s manual said to use Toyota transfer case fluid. I’d at least make sure whatever was in there was not enhanced with limited slip additives.

This sent a chill down my spine! First rule: Do no harm! So out of abundance of caution. Looks like I am switch to a non LS gear lube for 200 series TC.

Reading through this thread's, 13 pages. Seems 75W did not correct CDL cold flashing issue.

Toy TC LF 75W seems to be designed to aid MPG and be safe on yellow metals. But as of today, LF retails for $144 (2xcans ~$300). How much MPG improvement do we get, to justify $300. Years ago, I towed a 2000LX on a trailer, with a 2011 using M1 LS 75w-90 gear lube in all gear boxes. On flat Colo HWY, I saw ~ 19 to 21MPG on the display. That seemed, amazing MPG to me.

But the bigger concern, is yellow (brass) metals in transfer cases (TC). Brass introduced in TC, starting at some build date. Or do they all have yellow metals (brass), IDK. Anyone known, going back to 1998 -up, did they all have brass or what date was brass introduced into the TC?
I know the implication of this thread, combine with TIS,. 2011 was first. But was it?

Second chill came over me:
So out of concern. I logged in to TIS source I have, and looked closer at TC fluid recommendation. 2011 200 series, is first year LF 75W shows up. Was it a change in TC. Or was it, that they now had LF 75W ready for the market. Using A.I Copilot, it comes up with 2014 as first date Toyota/Lexus recommended LF. So was the wording in TIS for 2011,12 & 13 200 series changed to read LF 75W? Or does A.I have the wrong introduction date?

Toyota did not change wording in TIS recommendation for 2008-10. So would seem, there was a change in TC, starting in 2011 200 series. That is, if A.I correct on first recommended date of 2014. Was the 2011 TC, the first to get yellow metals, requiring change in lube?

I'll note: The 2003, was the first A750F (5spd) Automatic Transmission (A/T) in the 100 series, last with a A/T with a dipstick. Which calls for Toyota IV ATF. Then with release of Toyota WS ATF in 2004. Toyota started recommending WS ATF from 2004-up. They made no change in TIS, to 2003 recommendation. Was this and oversight or did 2004 A750F, have more difference than just removing the dip stick? From what I understand, Toy WS ATF is another MPG saving product. Toy IV ATF was ver. 1 of WS. So perhaps they felt no reason, to update 2003 manuals. Kind seems a waste than, to still manufacture Toy IV.

Third chill, as I read-up of sulfur effect on yellow metal. When heated to 40C damage starts. It seems 80C where it really gets bad. One ray of hope, was some LS additives (sulfur) are safe or safer. According to A.I, it depends on concentration, chemical make-up and other anti corrosion additives. This mostly found in synthetic.

So I sent Mobil One the question on their 75W-90 LS gear lube. Here is their response:
"Hello Paul,
Mobil 1 Syn Gear Lube LS 75W-90 is an API GL-5, usually we don't recommend to use API GL-5 with yellow metals because there could be compatibly issues.
I have checked in our database, for Toyota Land Cruiser and Lexus LX570, for the transfer box I see that is recommended the Toyota LF therefor no our products are advised, this could also be a mistake. Did you find the alternative API GL-5 on a user's manual? In case can you send me a copy?"

Oh S****. Mobil said no go with LS! @Taco2Cruiser saw brass & pitting in 2013 TC.

A.I, can not confirm no sulfur in LF 75W, only that it's safe for yellow metals.

I had checked in hard copy FSM up to last printing of 2010 LX470. Which has same rec as TIS online, GL-5 75W-75. Years ago and today, I also checked with parts department then, to see if they stock LF. They did not, still do not stock liter cans. But, their shop does (today) have LF 75W in bulk. Which typical Dealership's, carry the cheapest bulk they can get away with using. So they must a see it, as necessary.

TIS/FSM:
TIS 2008- 2010:
Oil Grade:
GL-5
Viscosity:
SAE 75W-90

2011 - 2016 (last yr I looked at) :
add transfer gear oil LF.
Viscosity:
SAE 75W

 

[linuxgod]

Transfer case oil won’t fix the flashing CDL light. Only actuator R&R will help.

Transfer case changed to borg Warner manufacturing in 2013, hence the change to 75w LF. 2008-2011 manual says 75w fluid.

ATF is separate discussion but WS is synthetic whereas T-3/T-4 I think was not. 200-series only uses WS

 

[abuck99]

^ Paul- can you confirm what brand bulk LF the dealer is using?

 

[Adrenaline6]

Transfer case oil won’t fix the flashing CDL light. Only actuator R&R will help.

Transfer case changed to borg Warner manufacturing in 2013, hence the change to 75w LF. 2008-2011 manual says 75w fluid.

ATF is separate discussion but WS is synthetic whereas T-3/T-4 I think was not. 200-series only uses WS

WS is not synthetic.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

WS is not synthetic.

Definitely thought it was... are we buying "sealed/lifetime" (lol) transmissions with non-synthetic in them?

 

[Adrenaline6]

Definitely thought it was... are we buying "sealed/lifetime" (lol) transmissions with non-synthetic in them?

Yup. That's why I switched to Amsoil WS. Full synthetic.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Yup. That's why I switched to Amsoil WS. Full synthetic.

Dang, learn something new every day! Ya same, been on that Valvoline Maxlife train for a bit. (Pardon the derailment here)

 

[bloc]

And as long as they are maintained the vast majority live a long healthy life with the conventional stuff just fine.

But, that’s off topic.

I have to wonder whether the odd smell of LF I described in the original post has to do with sulphur. Now considering digging into the VOAs of this stuff.. even though I’ve moved on to ravenol.

 

[AcmeSys]

Stolen from BITOG - Toyota LF 75 VOA and a cut of the Ravenol flavor straight 75. It is a hell of an additive pack in the Toyota LF75...

 

[bloc]

Stolen from BITOG - Toyota LF 75 VOA and a cut of the Ravenol flavor straight 75. It is a hell of an additive pack in the Toyota LF75...
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Thanks for posting that! Can you describe what makes it a “hell of an additive pack?” Just the quantities compared to other fluids? Meaning it’s expensive? Or is something special about the ratios?

Guess I’ll start saving 20s for the official LF for next change.

 

[bjowett]

The helluva add pack is what keeps all the parts alive when the low viscosity oil can no longer keep metal from meeting metal.

 

[AcmeSys]

It is a ton of Mg (detergent) and P (antiwear) in the results from Blackstone. I'd suspect the mothership knows something about what the center diff likes for dinner.