$80/liter transfer case oil

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So are you saying you're just adding a little "splash" of the straight 75W?
I run straight up LF75. If I knew how the CDL's torque balancer worked internally I might change to a cheaper traditional syn gear oil but it is a black box to me at this point. It is a small cost compared to my fuel bill and compared to my other oil related costs on hard run race engines and gear boxes it is in the noise.
 
I run straight up LF75. If I knew how the CDL's torque balancer worked internally I might change to a cheaper traditional syn gear oil but it is a black box to me at this point. It is a small cost compared to my fuel bill and compared to my other oil related costs on hard run race engines and gear boxes it is in the noise.
Gotcha, was a little thrown off with the "additive" language, I'm on the same page now.
 
WS is not synthetic.
Yeah, I’d read it was not fully synthetic a while back, but that it was semi-synthetic or whatever it’s called, similar to the cheaper motor oils. I’m not a chemical engineer and won’t even attempt to play one, but my understanding is it’s a step up from the older T-IV dino oil.
 
If Toyota's LF isn't synthetic, which, due to other lubricants not being synthetic, I would bet it isn't.

All the extra anti wear additives make sense. It will break down faster than fully synthetic lubes like Ravenol. The additives make up for the break down.
 
75w aint exactly 0w20...

This is true, 75W is actually thinner than 0W20. Remember, SAE engine and gear viscosity scales are different.

LF fluid is a high quality group III. No PAO, esters, or even a GTL.
 
If Toyota's LF isn't synthetic, which, due to other lubricants not being synthetic, I would bet it isn't.

All the extra anti wear additives make sense. It will break down faster than fully synthetic lubes like Ravenol. The additives make up for the break down.

Are the "anti-wear additives" intended to prevent shear in the fluid or wear of the metal parts?

At some point wouldn't the math work out to just run a synthetic vs all the additives? The cost of this stuff could certainly cover it.

Or does toyota know something we don't about our cases needing the anti-wear adds whether it is synthetic or not?

(Obviously they know a lot that we don't, but I mean this specific case)
 
Are the "anti-wear additives" intended to prevent shear in the fluid or wear of the metal parts?

At some point wouldn't the math work out to just run a synthetic vs all the additives? The cost of this stuff could certainly cover it.

Or does toyota know something we don't about our cases needing the anti-wear adds whether it is synthetic or not?

(Obviously they know a lot that we don't, but I mean this specific case)
Good question, but I doubt we will get an answer form Toyota on that. Fully synthetic lubes are a lot more expensive to make though. So even a Group III with all those additives, I would bet, is still cheaper than something like Ravenol 75w.
 
Check out the tech paper on page 6. It’s mainly cost and efficiency based. Mineral oil can actually maintain a thicker film than an equivalent PAO, at least in the normal every day operating temperature range.

Oil-club.ru has all the info, including gas chromatography that shows it’s a group III.
 
 
This is true, 75W is actually thinner than 0W20. Remember, SAE engine and gear viscosity scales are different.

LF fluid is a high quality group III. No PAO, esters, or even a GTL.
Correct- the gear oil boundary layer loading is way higher than engine applications. My real curiosity is to disassemble a 200 series TC and see how the gears are cut to see what type of oil it really needs and why they spec their additive package the way they do. Depending of the flavor of planetary, chain, and the torque bias gearing you could get away with a plane jane gear oil or find that the plain jane oil causes a shift in the torque bias. FM's in hypoid's with torsen or true tracks can do goofy things that are not desirable.
 
Correct- the gear oil boundary layer loading is way higher than engine applications. My real curiosity is to disassemble a 200 series TC and see how the gears are cut to see what type of oil it really needs and why they spec their additive package the way they do. Depending of the flavor of planetary, chain, and the torque bias gearing you could get away with a plane jane gear oil or find that the plain jane oil causes a shift in the torque bias. FM's in hypoid's with torsen or true tracks can do goofy things that are not desirable.
FM meaning friction modifier?
 
The Russian to English web translator is entertaining.
 
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I'd love to see the H/L gear set and the chain configuration. Does the tundra part time unit spec GL series oil or the unicorn tears?
If that fiche is representative that could be a type c unit in the LC?
 
Those are accurate fiche/drawings of the t-case parts. First pic shows the low range planetary gears, they are lightly helical. I’ll get you the requested pictures tomorrow. Torsen is a Type C/T3. The Tundra specs 75W90, but may switch over to the LF around the same time frame as the LC. The chain has the same part number for all transfer cases.
 

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